Our tour guide...

...was fab, a linguist as well as a comedian, and very well informed about Petra (as much as we can know, and he was clear about what we can't know). Tourism has dropped off heavily in Jordan in the last 4-5 years, presumably for the same reasons that have prompted a massive influx of refugees.
Privately on the walk back, he talked movingly about his cynicism and despair at Arab leaders' dishonesty, greed, corruption, the betrayal of the people, the lack of accountability, democracy or development, and how anyone with any ability leaves for Europe or elsewhere. 'The worst leaders in the world,' he said. And how he can't talk freely about his own government... Czytaj więcej