Grace & Chris’ Camino 2025

June – July 2025
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
Current
An open-ended adventure by Grace & Chris Read more
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
Currently traveling

List of countries

  • Spain Spain
  • France France
  • United States United States
Categories
Couple, Culture, Hiking, Self discovery, Spirituality
  • 10.6kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight8,963kilometers
  • Train746kilometers
  • Walking399kilometers
  • Bus48kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 77footprints
  • 42days
  • 977photos
  • 489likes
  • Emma RemisEmma RemisEmma RemisEmma RemisI forgot to save the name of the artist

    Museo Arqueológico de Cacabelos

    July 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Stopped in this museum on the Camino. It had a nice room about local archaeology, but what really struck me was the temporary art exhibit. The writing by Maria de Miguel and art by Emma Remis really moved me. Here is the English translation:

    Walking through art, pain, overcoming, and the heartbreak of a word that breaks you in the first three seconds someone utters it in a hospital room. That simple word that settles in the air and suffocates the future. You don't believe it. It can't be. The fragility of days. The practical joke of DNA when your cells multiply alongside doubts, alongside the desire to cling to the thread that holds you, to the heartbeat of a corridor of white coats that, suddenly, is inert. You hate it when they tell you: now you have to be strong, brave, and put your back into it. F*cking life, f*cking cancer.

    You have the right to shout, to be silent, to not tell or to share, to explain in order to let go or not say, or not show, or to feel like you can't take it anymore, to live in capital letters, to make yourself pretty, to squeeze the months digesting and going through in your own way an illness in which it's not a matter of being heroes: it's a matter of luck, of faith, of prevention, of research, of treatments that destroy you from the inside, and it's happened to you. I hope we get more budget, fewer assumptions, fewer taxes, more oncologists, more investments, less fear

    You never imagined entering an amusement park without paying admission for the roller coaster. Swallowing and clenching your fists. Colorful scarves. So many people like you, numbers going up, going down. From the decorated cells of a hospital. Your body, a prison trying to free itself from the jailer. Trying to escape, confront, pretend everything, pretend nothing. Not losing your dreams, not missing anything. One more step. A smile. Resilience, the science of kisses, the placebo of a WhatsApp at midnight. Their warmth, the strong hugs, the light rain on your cheeks, and the paint of your scar. One more test. The challenge of not looking back. Living with dignity. Dying with dignity

    For those who have survived uncertainty, for those whose destiny marked a date. There is no date on which we do not remember them, that we do not stumble upon their laughter, upon the echo of the desire that did not end with their desire. There is not a day when their hands remain tangled in yours. But there is a lump in your throat that won't let go. First and last names that had plans.

    I don't want to romanticize the idea of an illness that arrives anchored with a GPS, a different hope in each city. That geography is part of the pain and the budgets are different. May they not forget us. I don't want any more waiting lists or to wait any longer. I don't want the lack of oncologists in my city to lead me to become bedridden

    For all those reflected in "Memoirs of a Battle." For those who wanted to dance one more song on a sunny May afternoon. And for those who can dance it today, enjoying every chord, every ray of sunshine caressing their face. For every stroke, photograph, streak, battle wound, pigment on the canvas of a gaze that invites us on a terribly beautiful journey, full of love, full of rage, full of sap, of flowers in the throat that whisper that almost, almost make a word disappear, which, from so much naming it, painting it, speaking it, silencing it, treating it, should disappear: its accent, its folds, its claws, its haste and return joy to us in every cell of a journey of Life and back.

    María de Miguel,
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  • Day 32 - Camponaraya to Villafranca del

    July 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We had another day of starting late--7 am being late--so we could stop by a place during the day. This time it was a museum about halfway through our day--see my other post.

    Last night we stayed in a small town that was almost devoid of open businesses on weekday nights--even the lodging where we were staying didn't have its restaurant open. Fortunately, we did find a bar open for drinks and later one restaurant that was serving dinner. At the restaurant we met this couple older than us by at least a decade on their 89th day of the Camino. They had walked from Germany, through Switzerland and France, and then onto our route of the Camino Frances. We sure hope to be that awesome at that age.

    This region of vineyards in a huge bowl of a valley surrounded by mountains on all sides has been quite enjoyable to walk through. Tonight's albergue is built against the rock face and across the street from a river. The air is refreshingly cool as we gain elevation.

    AllTrails

    Afternoon hike
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Living at a walking pace

    July 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Walking the Camino has meant living at a walking pace. This means that each day we are only traveling as far as our feet will take us. The next town might only be fifteen minutes away by car, but that can be another hour or two on foot. Points of interest that are only a kilometer or two off the Camino seem forever away as we must consider the return trip and our total walking distance for the day. After hundreds of kilometers, the feet quickly object to any extended side trips. At the end of the walking each day, even the interesting thing a block or two away is ignored as the body demands a shower and a cold drink.

    It means potentially settling for the nearby bar/museum/lodging rather than another; sometimes this is because it's difficult to tell if the other place is even open. On the other hand, we've learned through experience when we can be brave and hold out for something better. Often the second or third bar in a small town gets our business now.

    While walking can be limiting, it is also liberating. There are no bus/train schedules to stress about. There's no desperate search for a parking space for the rental car. There's no worry about the luggage left in the car getting stolen. There's not the often unrealistic attempt to squeeze in half a dozen castles, museums, churches, etc.

    I definitely feel like I've learned a lot more about the daily life of people. We observe them at all times of the day and for more than a few seconds. It's possible to stop and talk with people or at least offer appreciation for their beautiful house, garden, art, etc.

    I can tell you about the subtle differences in the colors of sky from the hour before dawn until the sun has fully risen. I can tell when the birds will begin to chirp, when the snails and slugs will still be on the trail, when the butterflies and bees will begin to feast on the wildflowers.

    I've learned how my body feels at walking paces 30 seconds apart, and how to tell which one will leave me without blisters and not ready to collapse at the end of the day.

    Don't get me wrong, I don't think this pace is for everyone and everywhere. The Camino's centuries of tradition has resulted in a structure that supports the walking. There have also been many places where I've wanted to linger for a day or two more but it hasn't been possible if we want to make it to Santiago in the time we have. I'm already planning the return trip to Spain that will not be at a walking pace so we can linger a few days in each of the bigger towns and see ones we will not reach this time like Madrid.

    As the distance on the trail markers decreases, I don't find myself thinking that we're almost done, that we'll have succeeded. Instead, a part of me mourns that the kilometers are dwindling and this will end. I don't want it to go on forever--there are parts of my regular life I miss--but I do try to appreciate each day that we have left.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 31 - Molinaseca to Camponaraya

    July 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We have a few shorter days under 20 km as we used our last budgeted "rest day" to add a stop instead of staying in one place two nights. We enjoyed breakfast at our lodging and then walked 8 km to Ponferrada to spend a couple hours exploring a Templar castle that's in pretty good condition.

    Honestly, I could have spent all day at the castle. The views were great and I had just found some more of the detailed exhibits when it was time to get lunch and get back on the Camino.

    The 10 km to our lodging was pleasant but things were a bit warmer than the predicted 85, so we did stop once for a beer and once for an ice cream bar. After checking in we headed for a bar and a few more drinks and tapas to hold us over until dinner.

    AllTrails in 2 parts.

    French Way: Foncebadón - Ponferrada
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/mor…

    French Way: Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • It’s not getting easier

    July 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Lest anyone think the Camino is all wandering sheep, second breakfast, and 10 AM beers, I want to share something I wrote while Chris finished touring the Templar Castle this morning. (I started the tour, but then my shins, ankles, and knees objected to all of the “bonus walking — especially climbing and descending the thousand year old stairs…):

    I have to admit that the last couple of days have kicked my butt. The walk from the Cruz de Ferro was gorgeous, but it was also one of the hardest sections of trail that we’ve seen on this trip.

    After Burgos (days 16-17), I felt like my blisters were under control and I had my “walking legs.” It seemed like all I had to do was keep the rhythm we’d established: wake up early, walk until coffee, take a break to visit a church and catch up with friends, and then walk until noon or 1.

    But since Leon (day 26&27), more and more twinges are coming up in my shins, feet, and ankles. I’m still overwhelmed by how beautiful everything is and how lucky I am to be here, but I’m also tired and sore all the time.

    We inch closer to Santiago every day. Arriving in Santiago seems both inevitable and impossible right now.

    Writing all this out, plus resting in the shade plus lunch , plus my new favorite walking meditation (noticing every part of my body that doesn’t hurt) set me mostly to rights.

    Then we got to tonight’s lodging and discovered that they have air conditioning and a great shower and the bar down the street served great homemade tapas, so I’m headed to bed in a good mood. Thanks to everyone who’s holding us in prayer. Your kind wishes certainly help smooth the rough edges!
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  • Day 30 - Foncebadón to Molinaseca

    July 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We made it to the Cruz de Ferro for sunrise, which is atop the highest peak on the Camino. It was cold and windy, but I had my raincoat/windbreaker and gloves--I've now used everything I packed. Only about a dozen peregrinos passed us on the way up and we were able to have the space to ourselves for a few minutes in the predawn. There is a road to the location so it can get real crowded during the day.

    Unfortunately, there was no sun to be seen due to the clouds and trees. We dined on our first breakfast of a packaged muffin and packaged coffee drink and departed in search of hot coffee. We found it at the home of the self-described Templar knight who lives a few kilometers down the road. His story will be in the comments of the picture. He gave us a cup of coffee that was on par with that of Dr. Coffee, but it was hot and wonderful since other coffee was still hours away.

    The 9 km descent to the first town of El Acebo was rough due to the grade and scree, and we went more slowly then we had gone ascending the mountain. Fortunately, hours later the bar greeting us was wonderful with homemade tortilla, empanadas, and a butter cookie. Things were a bit easier after that but there were several long stretches of trail that tested the feet, ankles, knees, etc.

    Molinaseca is a pleasant riverside town with a nice park and swimming area; we only soak our feet as the water is rather cold even on hot days. The churches are closed on Mondays here, so we're relaxing a bit with no sights to see.

    Included are some photos from yesterday.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Foncebadón - Ponferrada
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • 29 years, 29 days, (almost) 29 km

    July 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Chris and I celebrated our 29th wedding anniversary and our 29th day on the Camino by walking what felt like 29 kilometers, even if it was only 26.7.

    If you’ve been paying attention, you might note that I’ve said that 25 km is my limit, and I won’t walk more than that. Grace, you might be asking, how did you end up walking so many kilometers on your anniversary? Let me explain:

    First of all, we’ll get to the peak of Mt. Irago, the highest point of the Camino and the home of the iconic Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), tomorrow. A while back, we realized that we could make the Cruz to Ferro at sunrise but it would mean a longer hike today.

    Secondly, we found out about a detour that would take us through a super charming village that was built by the Maragato people starting in the middle ages. Kris and I are both suckers for a charming village and we both prefer walking through rolling Hills dotted with abandoned sheep pastures instead of right next to the highway.

    Except for the last 5 kilometers or so, today was another pleasant walk. We passed through 3 or 4 charming villages (including Santa Catalina de Somoza, the only town on the whole Camino to be named for a woman saint) and stopped for a coffee or a beer and a chat at each of them. Even at the end, when I was pretty tired and my shin splints were acting up, all I could really feel was gratitude that I got to spend today having a grand adventure with my favorite person.
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  • Day 29 - Astorga to Foncebadón

    July 20 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today's 29th day hike on our 29th anniversary was long but enjoyable. The grade was more similar to the Bay Area hills than the Sierras or Rockies. The weather was cool with a nice breeze and the area was beautiful. Knowing we were in for a long day, we allowed ourselves to stop several times at bars for refreshments.

    Each of the towns was adorable in that small mountain town way, especially when several centuries old. In one town we tried the local fresh cider which was okay but nothing special--I'll have to try others to see if it's typical. We leapfrogged a friend from England and shared lunch before the final leg. It was a full day of hiking but there's not much to do at our final town aside from resting and dining.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Astorga - Foncebadon
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 28: Just a long, lovely walk

    July 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    In the many Facebook groups and Internet bulletin boards that I read as we were gearing up for the Camino, a common question was how much training and preparation was necessary. One school of thought – – that I don’t necessarily subscribe to – – claims that no training is necessary; proponents of this theory claim that the Camino is merely a long walk and that it trains you.

    Today’s walk, though, from the sleepy farming town of Villavante to the bustling city of Astorga really was just a long, lovely walk.

    We had our first morning coffee next to Hospital de Óbrigos’ famous medieval bridge (where a knight once bested 300 other knights in single combat jousting).

    After a steady but pleasant climb, we had our morning snack at La Casa de Los Dioses, a donation-based restaurant area where we had some fruit and cookies and played soccer ball fetch with a friendly dog.

    We had considered a rest day in Astorga but decided against it since we just had a rest day at in Leon. Since we will only be here for one night and there’s lots to see, we splurged on a fancy hotel that’s right on the cathedral Square and has a balcony that overlooks the bishops palace that was designed by Antoni Gaudí. I have heard other pilgrims say that being on the Camino has helped them simplify their lives and realize how little they need to get by. I am afraid to say that being on the Camino has only reinforced my appreciation of large bathtubs, air conditioning, and large comfortable beds.
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  • The random grotesques are always fun
    Café con leche overlooking the bridge of Don SueroEl Jardín del AlmaEl Jardín del AlmaEl Jardín del AlmaEl Jardín del AlmaEl Jardín del AlmaTomorrow we go most of the way up that mountain pathCathedral in AstorgaView from our hotel room. Cathedral and Peregrino museumHearty lunch after our walk

    Day 28 - Villavante to Astorga

    July 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We wrapped up week four today as we reached Astorga. We're two-thirds through our trip and two-thirds through the traditional sections as we leave the meseta and enter the mountains; 521 km are done and 259 to go.

    Today we passed a variety of crops from wheat to corn to beets to we weren't sure. The pine trees now populate the side of the road and the mountains rise before us. The red poppies and purple chicory flowers still show up, but there have been fewer butterflies.

    Astorga's cathedral was nice but not that impressive inside. There were a few pieces of art that caught my attention but I wasn't left with the same sense of awe as others.

    Astorga is famous for its chocolate, which would normally be dangerous, but we're only here one night, and I've learned my lesson from the cookies. The chocolate museum was small but cheap and they give you chocolate samples. The museum of the Camino housed in a building by Gaudi originally built for the bishop was interesting but disjointed. We didn't make it to the Roman ruins and museum.

    We squeezed in mass and finished off with some drinks and tapas.

    AllTrails
    French Way: Hospital de Órbigo - Astorga
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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