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Bike, Hike Portugal and Italy
  • Susan Alves
  • Susan Alves

Bike, Hike Portugal and Italy

A 20-day adventure by Susan Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 15, 2026
    Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Lisbon

    May 15 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Our flight took off from SFO at 8:30pm and we landed in Lisbon, 11 hours later at 3:30 pm, (8-Hour time difference ). A flight and hotel all in one, without the bed!

    We took a taxi to our hotel, and were just in time for happy hour and  Portuguese steak sandwiches by the sea. 

    It was fun to check out the old barrios and markets. The intricate work on buildings and statues are just not things we commonly see in the states- beautiful! We picked up some traditional Portuguese egg tarts, Pastel de Nata, for dessert, from a market stand. Still warm, they were delicious! 

    Starting to get tired, we headed to our hotel at about 8:30 pm. We were so excited to be in Portugal, and so were the revelers who celebrated and whooped it up in the streets until about 3:00 am! We actually did get some sleep and are excited to begin our cycling tour tomorrow!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Portugal Cycling Tour- Day 1

    May 16 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Today starts the first day of our cycling tour! We began by shuttling to Herdade do Barrocal, an estate that is renowned for its cork groves, olive oil and regional wines.  It was so interesting to learn how the cork is harvested in sheets from the cork oak, which occurs every 9 years. They explained that most of the harvested material is used for wine corks. They also raised cattle and had one of the cutest baby donkeys I've ever seen! The visit ended with a delicious lunch. Prepared right on the farm. 

    Next, we moved on to our accommodations, Convento do Espinheiro, a beautifully preserved 15th century convent. We changed into our riding gear and took a 5 mile warm-up ride to make sure our bikes fit. As I dodged potholes, tried not to let the cobblestones jerk my handlebars from my hands, and tried to listen to the GPS device give directions for the route, I wondered what I was getting myself into! Mark proved to be an outstanding leader and guide, watching the traffic, and reminding me to downshift when the hills started to get steep.

    We ended the day spending time with our fellow riders, a fun group from all over the United States, and had a delicious dinner!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    Évora

    May 17 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    After a delicious breakfast, we hopped on our bikes and headed for the hilltop medieval castle of Monsaraz, one of the oldest Portuguese settlements. Over the centuries it has been occupied by the Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, Jews and Christians.

     It was a beautiful 23 mile ride with perfect temperatures and sweeping countryside views. We passed through small towns with whitewashed homes and red tile roofs. The friendly residents waved and yelled "bom dia!" as we passed by. The last mile proved to be an extremely steep grade. Mark tackled it and made it all the way to the top, while I decided to give my bike a rest and walk alongside it!🤣

    The castle and views from the top were amazing!

    After shuttling back to our hotel we took a short break. We then took the bus to Evora, a city surrounded by magnificent walls and recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site. We strolled through the narrow cobblestone streets of this once Roman stronghold and later a Moorish capital. We were able to visit the Sao Francisco Church and its erie Chapel of the Bones, constructed by 16th century Franciscan monks. 

    Mark and I enjoyed a delicious dinner which included Mark's beloved traditional Portuguese linguica and a beer. We toasted to a great first full day of cycling!

    On our way back to the bus, we saw matadors exiting a bullfight arena and the stock being loaded into trailers. Mark noticed that one of the participants may have been a distant relative!

    It was an amazing day and we will definitely sleep well tonight!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Mertola

    May 18 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Today we were shuttled 2 hours south to begin our 28 mile ride to Mertola. Our guides described our adventure as a full day of "fundulations". I can tell you that there was a combination of some steep hills and white knuckle downhill, pumping the brakes sections! It was fun and a challenge at the same time for me. Mark seems to move effortlessly along!
    We stopped for lunch at a rural cafe for a farm fresh meal, then continued on to the fortified hilltop town of Mertola,
    perched above the Guadiana River.
    After settling in at the hotel, we were treated to a boat ride up the Guadiana River, where we were able to view the town, castle, and whitewashed homes with red tile roofs.
    Before dinner, we tasted some local wines and our guides treated us to a presentation about the regions, politics, and history of Portugal.
    We finished the evening with a group dinner featuring traditional Portuguese food and lots of lively conversation!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    Mertola

    May 19 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Today, our destination was Pomarão, a small riverside port. Our trusty bikes, (and hard working legs), carried us 15 miles, over hilly terrain, with a 1450ft elevation gain. Along the way, we passed a road sign leading to the village of Alves! Though we didn't get to visit, it was pretty exciting to see a town of our namesake! When we reached the bridge, near our destination, we were able to cross the border into Spain then ride back into Portugal!
    After an amazing lunch at a café overlooking the marina, I hopped in a taxi with several others for the return to the hotel, to explore Mertola. Mark, on the other hand, took the challenging route back, covering a total of 31 miles, 2910 ft elevation gain, with a 14% grade. He was the only one to make that route with a road bike, (the others rode e-bikes). Several women told me my man was a beast!
    Later this afternoon, we tasted some local regional wines, then joined a local guide for a tour of Mértola, where layers of history—from Phoenician and Roman roots to a 500-year Moorish presence—are still visible today.
    Tomorrow we move to our new location- the Algarve. They have certainly been keeping us busy!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    The Algarve

    May 20 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Today I'll just share a stream of consciousness, my observations along the way: The cork is harvested from the Cork oak every 9 years, in one large sheet, usually just from the trunk. A number is written on the trunk to signify the last digit of the year it was harvested. Another type of oak, the Olm oak produces large acorns that are fed to the traditional black pigs of Portugal. In the picture, I am hugging an Olm oak, one of the largest in the country In the picture, Mark is eating the black pig, fattened on Olm oak acorns, a specialty of the region which includes a stew of cardamom, garlic and mint. It tastes like the traditional Portuguese sopas, so Mark was in heaven! The countryside is amazingly similar to Yolo county, a Mediterranean climate. This isn't so surprising, since we are on a similar latitude. We were treated to a wine tasting from a local vineyard. The wine industry is struggling, here in Portugal, due to lower consumption of alcohol in general. Many people are also preferring beer to wine.
    The cycling has gone well, about half of us on road bikes, (including Mark and me), the other half of the group on e-bikes. Mark has been a rockstar, leading the road bike group to the top each time! I have been within the top three on the road bike crew! The riding has been challenging for me, but I have gained a lot of experience, courage and have learned that this can be a lot of fun!
    Our guides have been amazingly supportive, fun, and have had our bikes tuned up and ready to go! Each day we are sent on our way following directions from Ride with GPS. One guide passes us all with the bike trailer to set up snacks and water about halfway. The other guide "sweeps", or follows the group to make sure everyone gets safely to the destination. The 18 of us, have been spread out, cycling at our own paces, throughout the ride.
    The accommodations have been beautiful, with delicious food and swimming pools at each location! Speaking of which, now that our ride is finished for the day, I am going to go enjoy a sangria by the pool!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
    1

    Tavira

    May 21 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    After breakfast, we cycled to the Monterosa olive groves for a guided tasting and to learn about both traditional and modern production methods. We learned that olive oil should be stored in dark glass bottles and consumed not long after being opened, to avoid oxidation. I chose not to share that my plastic jug, purchased from Costco, had been in my pantry for at least year and a half!
    We continued an additional 14 miles to Tavira, a small town in the Algarve for lunch and to look around.
    In the evening, we got together with our fellow travelers and Trip Leaders for a farewell reception, followed by a festive dinner featuring regional Algarve cuisine prepared with fresh, local ingredients and paired with Portuguese wines. We toasted to the ride, our amazing guides, and to new friendships!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Cascias

    May 22 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    With yesterday being our last day of riding, it felt strange not to get up and pull on the stretchy padded biking shorts and jerseys, (yay!). Instead, we loaded our packs, hopped on the bus and took the 4-hour journey to Cascias. Cascias is a beautiful city, located north of Lisbon, on the Atlantic coast, and an international vacation destination.

    When we arrived, Mark and I grabbed our backpacks and headed to our hostel. We had our own private room, in a quiet, restful neighborhood.

    After settling in, we ate a delicious fresh fish dinner, toasted with a Super Boc beer, and took in the sights! We dipped our toes in the Atlantic Ocean, watched the locals play, foot volley, (no hands sand volleyball), wandered down the cobblestone streets, ate gelato, and sat in the central square watching boats in the ocean and people passing by. We then located the train station and bought our tickets for our trip to Lisbon, in the morning, before heading back to the hostel. 

    It felt great just to relax and hang out after the biking tour of the last 6 days where Mark completed 150 miles and I completed 110 miles. What a wonderful way to experience Portugal!    Read more

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    Lisbon, Alfama District to Rome

    May 23 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Strapping on our backpacking packs, we hopped on the train, leaving Cascias, toward Lisbon. The tracks hugged the Atlantic Ocean,  providing great views along the way.

    Once we arrived in Lisbon, we stopped for a light breakfast, then headed uphill to the historic Alfama district, schlepping our packs. Does that count as backpacking in Portugal? 🤔 We hiked about 5 miles, discovering hilltop castles, ancient churches, charming old neighborhoods, and beautiful views!

    We arrived back to the square just in time to jump in a taxi, and head to the airport. Our flight carried us over the Mediterranean Sea to Rome, for the next leg of our adventure. And how else to spend our first evening in Rome, than with a plate of homemade pasta with carbonara sauce, pork cheek meat, and a cold beer!

    Happy Birthday, dear Amber, with hugs and love from Italy! Arrivederci!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    The Heart of Rome, Italy

    May 24 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Here we go!! We are staying at Casa Il Rosario run by the Dominican Sisters of Charity. It is a perfect place to stay, and situated in the heart of ancient Rome, near the train station, Roman Forum, the Coliseum and Trevi fountain.
    Today we created our own heart of Rome walk, while listening to a podcast explaining each feature. Our 4 hour hike included: Campo di Fiore; Piazza Farnese; Via dei Baulare; Pasquino; Piazza Navona; The Pantheon; Piazza Capranica; Piazza de Monticitorio; Piazza Colonna; Trevi fountain; Palazzo de Propaganda Fide; Column of the Immaculate Conception; and the Spanish Steps. I could write an entire blog post on each of these sites- fascinating! Since I don't have the space, I hope the pictures tell the story!
    The sites were amazing, the artwork phenomenal, and the history of Rome being told through its architecture and sculptures.
    Oh, and did I mention the weather has been perfect, and the pasta carbonara, pizza, and gelato delicious!
    And the adventure continues- Tomorrow We visit the ancient Roman sites!    Read more

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    Ancient Rome

    May 25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Ancient Rome, what can I say?! Well, the time period lasted from 500 BC to 500 AD. We heard fantastical stories of blood and guts from the rule of Julius Caesar and his eventual demise; to the enlightenment period of art and beauty and developing artists of their time; to vestal virgins who served as homemakers for 30 years, but if were unsuccessful in maintaining their virginity, were buried alive with a loaf of bread; to gruesome scenes of gladiators facing off against wild animals and each other to the death in the Colosseum; to the development of democratic systems, judicial systems and laws; to animal sacrifice and belief in a myriad of gods catering to a myriad of services; to the sheer wonder of these early architects and laborers who were able to erect such massive and impressive structures to their gods and rulers. How can I possibly summarize this day?!
    We also walked to the Jewish ghetto that revealed the fate of many residents to the hands of the Nazis. Then crossed the rushing Tiber River, the third largest river in Italy.
    We finished our day with the most amazing spaghetti dinner, cold beer and tiramisu! Tomorrow we leave Rome, what an amazing two days it's been! In the morning we head to the Dolomites, the Italian Alps!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Ortesei, The Italian Alps

    May 26 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    This morning we bid farewell to the nuns at Casa il Rosario, strapped on our packs, and headed to the termini. We hopped on the trenItalia bullet train, heading north to Bolsano. Along the way, we saw the landscape change from ancient city, to agricultural fields with round bales of hay, to apple trees covered by netting to protect them from hail, to hills, then majestic limestone mountains capped with snow! It took a little teamwork to figure out how to find the right bus after departing the train, (line 350), then when to get off the bus, (yeah, this looks about right...). We ended up finding our cute little apartment about 2 minutes after the bus dropped us off! After a warm welcome by Sophia, (owner of the apartment where we're staying), including some trail recommendations in the Dolomites, we headed into town.

    Ortesei is gorgeous, with green rolling hills and the Dolomite Alps jutting up in the background. Because it is so close to the Austrian border, German and Italian are spoken with the buildings resembling German chalets.

    We grabbed a panini and toasted our arrival with steins of beer! After visiting a local grocery store to pick up provisions for breakfast and snacks, we headed back to our apartment to rest up for our big day of hiking in the Dolomites tomorrow!    Read more

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    Hiking in the Dolomites

    May 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    No switchbacks up the hill for us today! This morning we boarded the Resciesa funicular which carried us up the track to 6300 ft into the Val Gardena Dolomites! Mark expertly loaded our trek into his phone so we could follow the map along the way. And what a trek it was! The weather was perfect, about 70° the whole day, ( we were told it was 32° and snowing last week!). Because it is early in the hiking season, most of the time Mark and I were the only ones enjoying these trails and beautiful scenery!
    When we hopped off the funucular, we headed to the Resciesa summit cross and were able to gaze across the deep valley and into Austria. From there we headed to the Resciesa mountain hut and enjoyed a cup of coffee sitting on the balcony, soaking up the sun. Following Sophia's advice, we continued our hike across Brogles to the Odel Nature Park. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, with: mountain spiers reaching into the sky; contrasts of white snow, green hills and blue skies; wildflowers blanketing the hills; rushing streams; and gorgeous views at every turn of the path.
    When we came to Furnes, we decided to continue our walk down the mountainside instead of taking the lift down. Though extremely steep, we got to see more of the forest and mountain homes of the people who live there. We were surprised to see people keeping deer as livestock, small vegetable gardens, and stacks of wood at the side of the house to prepare for cold winter weather.
    Our hike ended back in Ortisei, 13 mountainous miles and one of the most beautiful hikes we've ever encountered! We toasted our amazing adventure with tall beers, a large pizza and apple strudel for dessert!    Read more

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    Alpi di Suisi

    May 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Gondolas are amazing, and not scary at all! We were transported, straight up the hill, by gondola, to Alpi di Suisi, the largest alpine valley in Europe. Again, the Italian Alps provided gorgeous views at every turn, with perfect weather!
    We hiked about 9 miles, stopping at mountain huts along the way, to try the local beer, and apple strudel, a specialty in this area- Delicious!
    We continue to marvel at the beautiful scenery, and are so grateful for the kindness of strangers who are willing to answer all kinds of questions, in English. In Ortesei, most people speak at least four languages, Italian, German, Ladin, the ancient regional language, and English.
    Tomorrow we leave this amazing area. It will be a day of travel, navigating two bus and two train changes. Wish us luck!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    Travel to Sesto

    May 29 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We arrived at our first bus stop in Ortesei early to bid this sweet little hamlet  farewell. When we arrived at Stazione di Chuisa, to board our first train,  the panel board read SOP... When I asked the policia, after our train did not arrive, they informed me that there was a train strike, (SOP- suppressed).

    We met a young woman from New York, originally from Peru, who was a whiz on her phone and heading in the same direction. She gave us further information, and we kept her in our sights! We waited an additional half an hour and boarded the next train out. 

    After a short wait at  Stazione di Fortezza, we boarded another train to Lienz. During this train ride, we noticed several trains passing in the opposite direction carrying big rigs and cars. A local informed us that protesters would be shutting down the highways tomorrow, and that all through traffic would be stopped. They would be protesting motor vehicles driving through the Italian Alps, and promoting use of public transportation. Makes sense to us!

    Arriving in San Candido, because of the earlier train strike, our bus route was an hour late. Even the views from the bus stop were amazing, always something beautiful to see!

    After arriving at our last bus stop in Sesto, the last leg of our journey was by foot. We followed the trail through the Drei Ziennen Nature Park, an UNESCO heritage site, to Talschusshutte, the mountain hut where we will be staying the next two nights.
    When the people from our bike tour group saw the schedule we were keeping, they said that Mark and I should be contenders for the Great American Race!
    Despite the strikes and multiple changes, the buses and trains are an excellent way to sit back, relax, and enjoy this beautiful area.    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Hike Drei Ziennen/ Tre Cime

    May 30 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Another amazing day of hiking in the Dolomites! Whether you call this impressive three peaks mountain range by its German or Italian name, it is considered the most sought after hike in the Italian Alps!
    Because the other huts were not open, we decided to hike up to Drei Ziennen, look around, and then hike back to Talschlusse, (The Hut where we are staying). I chose to use the German name for this three peak range because most people in this area seem to be speaking German. Along the hike we changed from "gutten morgan", to " buongiorno" to "ciao" to "hello." The language didn't seem to matter- it really doesn't matter where we're from. Everyone seems to be loving this area, enjoying nature and marveling at this beautiful scenery!
    Notice, however, that I didn't say it was easy! We definitely experienced some impressive switchbacks on the way up, gaining 3,000 ft elevation gain in about 4 miles. Then, we got to practice our skiing technique all the way down!
    When we reached our Hut, we toasted with a tall beer, and enjoyed conversation with a couple from Virginia Beach, originally from Austria. Feeling so grateful, and realizing it really is a small world after all.    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    Dobbiaco/Lago Braies

    May 31 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Auf wiedersehen to Talschlusse Hut- with its comfy beds, friendly staff, introduction to South Tyrolian food, and some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world! It was also time to bid farewell to my loyal hiking boots that carried me nearly 500 miles on the Camino de Santiago, backpacking in Yellowstone, and throughout The Italian Alps. Cracked and worn beyond repair, this seemed like a fitting resting place.
    Today we arrived in Dobiacco, another gorgeous town in the Italian Alps, and headed to Lake Braies. Every turn of the bus along the way revealed more amazing scenery. It has been so difficult to choose which pictures to add to this blog because the scenery has just been spectacular!
    We hiked the 4 mile loop around the lake, admiring the beautiful clear blue water and display of mountains in the background. Many people seem to love this area, as these are the biggest crowds we have seen in the Italian Alps. Near the end of our walk, the sky got dark, the thunder roared and it rained for about 15 minutes. After that, the sun came back out, along with 70° temperatures for another perfect day of weather in the Dolomites!
    Today wraps up our last day in the Italian Alps. We have felt so grateful to have experienced this this gorgeous corner of the world!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
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    Cortina d'Ampezzo to Venice

    June 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    This morning, back on the bus, we headed South from the Dolomites, toward Venice. Along the way, we stopped for a short break in Cortina, where the 2026 Winter Olympics were held.
    We hopped off at the bus's final stop, looking for the kiosk to buy vaporetto, (water bus), tickets. When we asked a woman for directions, she told us that we weren't in Venice at all but at the train station outside of the city! We hopped on a local bus that took us to the vaporetto station, bought our tickets, and got our first glimpses of Venice by boat! Beautiful!
    Venice is like no place I have ever seen – there are no streets, only walkways, and people are transported by gondolas, water taxis and vaporetos, instead of cars.
    Thanks to Mark's app, maps.me, we got off the vaporato at the Rialto bridge, found and checked into our hotel, had a delicious dinner, and started walking.
    They say that when you are in Venice, to just start walking and get lost. We did just that, and wandered for hours looking at historical buildings, present politics depicted in murals, tasting the local gelato, and watching men expertly guiding gondolas through the canals. We walked through crowds of people, especially near St. Mark's Basilica, over many bridges, and ended up on empty cobblestone walkways virtually by ourselves.
    When thunder and lightning threatened, and the sky broke loose with rain, we headed back to our hotel. What a great adventure- out first day in Venice!
    Happy Birthday dear Ezra, Happy Birthday to you! Bugga and Papa love you!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler
    1

    Venice and Merano

    June 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Just as we started recognizing landmarks, noticing familiar street posts, and finding our way through winding corridors and cobblestone streets, it was time to bid farewell to Venice.
    It was another perfect day of weather, as we cruised down the grand canal in the vaporato from the railway station, under the Rialto bridge, all the way down to San Marcos Basilica.
    We shared chiccetti, (small bites), and limoncello spritzes in a Piazza, somewhere in the middle of the city, (again, getting lost but not really caring), and enjoyed people watching.
    Next, we decided to hop on the vaporato and head to Murano, the small island famous for its beautiful glass artwork. Murano was quaint, much less crowded than Venice, and had beautiful glass artwork for sale in just about every small storefront, from tiny figurines, to huge glass chandeliers!
    After returning to Venice, we had a delicious dinner of pasta and toasted, (a couple of days early), to our 45th wedding anniversary with glasses of local wine.
    From the cycling in Portugal, to walking historical Rome, to hiking adventures in the beautiful Dolomites, to exploring cobblestone pathways and water ways of Venice, what an amazing and memorable trip this has been!
    Mil grazie and arrivederci!    Read more

  • Susan AlvesBike, Hike Portugal and ItalyTraveler

    Home Sweet Home!

    Jun 3–13 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    No matter where we roam, it's always great to be home! Ash charged up our car, brought it SFO and met us at the airport to welcome us home! After hugs and a few short stories, she hopped on BART, we jumped in our car, and we all headed home. Thanks again, Ash!Read more

    Trip end
    June 3, 2026