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Walking the Camino

July - August 2022
A 34-day adventure by Susan Read more
  • 32footprints
  • 2countries
  • 34days
  • 247photos
  • 0videos
  • 659kilometers
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  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 10

    Belorado

    July 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Along the path, I often reflect on the people and things for which I am so grateful: red poppies in an endless yellow wheat field; the rhythmic crunch of rocks under my boots; simplicity of the journey; yellow arrows leading the way; a body that is doing everything I'm asking of it; the moment I get to unlace my boots and place my feet on the cool tiles of the new Albergue; seeing the sunrise behind a building that was built a thousand years ago; losing my thinking mind in the walking and reflecting deeply on each beloved member of my family ❤️; smelling cereal as we trudge through miles of wheat fields; hearing 10 different languages during the course of the day, each changing to "Buen Camino!" with big smiles as we pass; Marjory's quick wit, passion for social justice and our deepening friendship; Maria's patience and the special "Amiga" relationship we share; Cindy's gentle spirit and bravery in paving a new path; the breeze that mixes with sweat to cool us down; Cafe sin leche; Mark, who helps me get my balance, even when he is 5,000? miles away; chocolate croissants; the beautiful people of Spain who are always willing to pause for questions, give directions, welcome total strangers to walk through their neighborhoods, yelling "Buen Camino!"; little surprises that seem to appear around each corner; my family who has supported me in this adventure, researched and gifted me with the perfect items for the journey, who leave encouraging messages on my blog posts and who's love I can feel all the way from home.❤️Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 11

    Ages

    July 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Last night we had a final dinner together, as a foursome. Cyndee has decided to walk with two women who are walking at a slower pace and will take an additional 3-5 days to complete the Camino.Today, Marjory, Maria and I trekked 28k, about 7 hours, to Ages. This section took us through wheat fields, and over some steep inclines, into the forest. Along the way, we saw more cave dwellings and continue to see these snails that devour entire plants! Escargot?? Tomorrow, we hike to Burgos, Maria's final day on the Camino. She will be taking a bus to Madrid, then flying to Guadalajara to meet her family for vacation, and soak her feet in the Pacific Ocean. We'll miss our friend!Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 12

    Burgos

    July 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    Today our trek ended in Burgos. We traveled through the industrial part of the city, got a little lost trying to find our Albergue, but found our way, thanks to the helpful folks who live here. Today, one man who helped us, dubbed us "Las Tres Valientes!" We decided to keep it. 😄 Burgos is a large city, 180,000 people, with amazing cathedrals and churches, as well as old world charm. Today was Maria's last day on the Camino, before she joins her family in Mexico. To honor her last day, we stayed at a beautiful Jesuit albergue. We went to a short mass and were brought to the front receive a pilgrim's blessing by the priest. We were then served a communal meal, and had dinner conversation with new friends from France and Chile. Tomorrow, Marjory and I tackle a 31K trek, across the Meseta- it's supposed to be a hot one... Better get some sleep. Love to you all.Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    11
    Day 13

    Hontanas

    July 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    Before leaving Burgos, we had a communal breakfast with friends from France and Chile. Next, we headed into the high Meseta-, 32K, some steep elevation gain, no shade, with temperatures in the high 90's. There were wheat fields as far as the eye could see, along with this small oasis of trees, and a dwelling cut into the side of a mountain. At one point, a car came driving up from nowhere- it was a team of bombaderos just checking up on pilgrims, offering water and assistance. We were doing ok, but thanked them for the offer! Even though we made it to Hontanas by 1:30, (7 hours of walking), the heat and distance made this one of our toughest days yet. Marjory and I had a beer and toasted our arrival in Hontanas. Later, we had a communal dinner offered by the albergue- salad, paella, and cheese cake- delicious! We met new friends from Denmark, Germany, and Italy. After dinner, we strolled around this tiny town and visited the church and this little structure cut into the side of a hill. What do you think is behind the blue door?! We will be starting our 27K trek, in the same type of terrain, at 5am tomorrow, to try to avoid the heat. We're learning!Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 14

    Boadilla

    July 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 99 °F

    Photos: 5am start time- selfie with the moon; Boots lined up outside of the albergue; Ancient churches seen in every town we cross; skull and crossbones on the side of a church- no Moors in perpetuity; landscape at the top of a steep grade; another house built into the side of a hill; another cross in the middle of nowhere.
    Communication on the Camino: a French woman mining a headache and vomiting lying on the bed across from me🤮; an Italian man, not able to speak the English conversation around the table, smiled and served each one of us paella and wine; in the cities, a honking car is a positive sign on the camino. It is usually followed by a waving hand, pointing the correct way, opposite of the direction we are traveling. We have never been more than a block off of our path before being redirected by the locals; finger shaking, then "no mijas" then pointing across the street; another Italian man with little English directing another Pilgrim with a question to Marjory and me, referring to us as "The Teachers; listening to two men arguing in Italian about whether DaVinci painted the Mona Lisa in France or Italy; listening to two German men discuss different types of beer, including one variety that is meat flavored, and that it should be served at room temperature; a young Brazilian woman aptly describing the hunched over limping gait seen by people after a long trek as the "Pilgrim walk"; our friends from Korea yelling across the street excitedly waving both hands with big smiles; a woman from the states yelling "Hey Peace Corps",noticing the patch on my pack. She had been stationed in Georgia before being evacuated. We all seem to find a way to communicate!    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 15

    Carrion de los Condes

    July 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    Today we hit the 230 mile mark, and are nearly half way through the Camino. We're feeling strong, eating like horses, and although our feet are aching at the end of our walk each day, they are fine and ready to go in the morning! Still seeing interesting sites along the way: a random 20 foot long hand and arm laying in front of a house; door knockers shaped like hands on many doors; and the medival churches that tell dark stories. In Carrion, many of the carvings on the churches are missing their heads. In addition, for a period of time, the Moors demanded 100 Christian maidens be relinquished to them each year. No stories are told about what the Christians did to the Moors...hmmm. So much blood shed in the name of religion. Better get some sleep- love to you all.Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 16

    Terradillos de los Templares

    July 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 93 °F

    Terradillos is a tiny farming community that is a great example of combining the old with the new: structure that is 100s of years old with a modern tractor parked next to it; ancient building made of beams, straw cob, and brick, with a modern structure built onto it, made of plaster with a corrugated metal roof. This ancient gate is the entrance to an ancient church, ( okay, those two match😄); the albergue we are staying at is a mix of the old and the renovated, although we have yet to stay in a place with air conditioning. Our walk today, 26k, was comfortable, although the last 2k always seems to stretch on forever! We arrived at 11:30am, after just under 6 hours of walking, and beat the heat. The thermometer on the side of a building registered 48C- really hot! Shared dinner with Jason from Scotland, who spent time on the Highlander series set. He talked about the props, people walking down streets in full costume, and the authenticity of the set. You would have loved it, Cyndee! Such interesting people on the Camino! Love to you all and Buenos noches.🥱Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 17

    Berciamos

    July 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 100 °F

    Again, we beat the heat, arriving in Bercianos before 12. It was a comfortable walk, but the last 2k seem to take forever. We continue to see many little houses dug into mountain sides. The sign explains how they are used. I guess I can stop looking for Hobbits, along the way. 😁 My picture is at the end of our walk, where I took a nap on the cement, until the albergue opened an hour and a half later. We are staying at a Parochial albergue, run by volunteers, that do not charge, but accept donations. They do not have wifi, so we are sitting in a bar, using their wifi, l enjoying a beer, and watching the Tour de France on TV and locals playing lively games of dominos. Lots of slamming on the tables, and observers yelling. I guess I've been playing dominos the wrong way all these years!😂I've been able to keep in touch with Cyndee- she has been doing some site seeing, plans to continue to bus ahead to Sarria, then walk 10k a day until she reaches Santiago. So glad she is doing the Camino her way.❤️Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    1
    1
    Day 18

    Mansilla de las Mulas

    July 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 95 °F

    On our trek to Mansilla, the meseta is transforming from endless dry wheat fields, to irrigated corn and cattle production. Photos: trees wrapped in afghans along the route, hug back!; Remnants of the old Roman wall fortress that surrounds Mansilla has been reinforced over the years and is 10 feet wide in some parts- 75 percent of the walls still remain; the arch that is the entrance to the city; tower that provides for the city's running water system; another church at daybreak. Finishing the evening comparing feet with a man from London and a woman from Italy. Their feet included bloody infections and blisters with threads running through them to help with drainage. I had nothing to compare to the carnage. So grateful for my strong, healthy feet. We trek to Leon, tomorrow, with the promise of cooler weather. Ojala.😊 Love to you all!Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    1
    Day 19

    Leon

    July 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Leon- only a 19K trek, (we got to sleep in until 5am), the temperature dropped to 25C with a cool breeze, beautiful city, it was like being on vacation! We dropped our packs at the albergue at about 10am, after our arrival, and toured the city. Something new; ancient; and fascinating to see around every corner, (including a tattoo shop where Marjory had to get some gage earrings- too many pictures of needles,😳, but nice guys; greeting other familiar pilgrims with yells and hugs, and really taking time to enjoy ourselves. When we returned to the Albergue, Daniel, from Germany, made a big green salad with muscles, and invited us to join him. Great conversation and delicious food! After our daily routine of showers, laundry, etc, back to the city central for dinner- burritos, salad, and churros con chocolate. Connected with several more familiar faces, several of whom had family members join them to finish the Camino!❤️ Many are spending an extra day in Leon to take a rest day and enjoy the city. Tomorrow, we will have a challenging 32k trek. Fingers crossed for continued cool weather! Side note- last evening, a BIG man from Germany decided pants were optional, and paraded around the albergue in his tight red chonies, including squeezing around people to sit at the dinner table.😨 Two women from Spain were especially horrified! This morning, as we headed out, into the silent darkness, I asked them: " Donde esta tu amigo? El no esta caminando contigo." We all started laughing uncontrollably, reminded of the crazy situation of the previous night. Marjory- "Pants are not optional- I may have to sit in that chair!"😂Read more

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