• Santa Tecla & La Libertad - El Salvador

    24. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    How long - 3 weeks
    Stayed - all over
    Travelling with - solo y Céssar

    Back to El Salvador for a few weeks of rest and more exploration of this amazing country. Also time to try and improve my Spanish
    First off a night in San Salvador where I caught up with the boys that I met up in Juayua. Next day to Santa Tecla which is a lovely little suburb of San Salvador. It's the place where the San Salvadorians go to party at the weekend so there's some lovely bars and restaurants. Also a really nice street market. My return to San Salvador also coincided with Susan doing a fleeting return to El Salvador from Guatemala to see the port at La Libertad. So I checked into the hostal in Santa tecla and jumped on a bus down to meet her. Had a lovely afternoon strolling the fish market and the sea front. La libertad a bustling fishing port with market and great seafood. Lovely seafood lunch and a few beers with Susan and then back to Santa Tecla.
    Fun Friday night in Santa Tecla with the boys and their brother who had just arrived back from NY for a visit.
    Back to Juayua to hang out and chill.
    Weiterlesen

  • Suchitoto

    20. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    How long: 3 nights
    Stayed:
    Travelling with: Solo

    The multiple buses to Suchitoto actually didn't take half as long as expected and so arrived into Suchitoto mid afternoon. I immediately liked it. Bus dropped me near the central square and I set off to find my hostel. Lovely colonial little town with a really nice friendly ambience. Like a lot of towns in El Salvador its on a grid so not too hard to find your way around so found my hostel pretty quickly and checked in to the dorm to see only other person staying and although they were not there I recognised the stuff and laid a bet with myself that it was Wei.
    Just dropped my bag and headed out for a wander in this lovely little town. Although the guidebooks had said weekends were busy in Suchitoto I was struck by how quiet it was....even in the main square. There were some stalls out and a few people strolling around but all in all very quiet. Beautiful Cathedral overlooking the main square...which seems to be the template for most Central American towns and cities.
    Was wandering through the square and lo and behold met Quan....El Salvador really is a small country. He was with an an El Salvadorian girl who he had appeared to be driving him around the country! Another example of the amazing El Salvadorian hospitality...she wanted to make sure he enjoyed the country and had easy travel so she drove to one town to pick him up and drive him to another! Wish I had made a friend like that!! I do also think she fancied him quite a lot tho! :) So spent a lovely afternoon wandering with them and had a beer in the afternoon sun beside the cathedral. Went back to the hostel later to find that my roommate was indeed Wei.....and that we were only people staying there! Relaxed for a while and then went back to meet Quan for a beer and a pupusa.
    Next day headed off with the two guys to check out the lake. Ended up going down a random track to explore which brought us on a lovely trail down to the lake through woods ans maize fields. Stunning views and not a person in sight apart from a very helpful, friendly farmer. Walked for a few hours and then decided we wanted to try and get to the other side of the lake which was looking impossible until we spotted a fisherman in his boat who brought us across...and tried to sell us some fish which unfortunately we couldn't buy as no bag to put it in. Kept walking and then came to a group of shacks beside the lake which were restaurants so we stopped for lunch and had one of the best fish meals ever! So fresh and from a snack in the middle of a field!. Wandered home very happy with ourselves buying some more fresh fish on the way that we cooked up a storm with that night. On the walk home I noticed a lot of the houses had a stencil in different colours on the outside wall. It had a picture of the national bird and the words..."En esta casa queremos una vida libre de violencia hasia las mujeres" ....in this house we want a life free of violence against women. Great to see this initiative but very sad that it's necessary.
    Next day went to see the waterfall outside of town...which we needed a police escort for. These boys weren't taking any chances...three heavily armed police and army guys drove us out there and walked down to the waterfall with us. Unfortunately the waterfall was dry but there's an amazing rock formation there that reminded me very much of the Giants Causeway....more a vertical giants causeway. Very interesting...especially with our machine gun toting guides :)
    Next day I decided to move on to Las Palmas which would be a stop off on the way to La Frontera and Honduras. Quan heading same way so we decided to travel together
    Weiterlesen

  • Juayúa, El Salvador

    15. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    How long: 4 Nights
    Stayed: Casa Mazeta
    Travelling with: Solo and Tom

    Beautiful trip along the coast to Sonsonate. So many stunning beaches. Easy change in Sonsonate and on to Juayua on the hottest chicken bus in the world. Mashed in beside a poor little old man who I was sweating all over. Great chats and he offered to take me out driving following day and show me the countryside. Asked if I had friends in Juayua and when I said no that I was alone, I corrected me and said I had him as he was now my friend. So nice :)
    Arrived at Casa Mazeta early evening and met the only two other guests...Erin who I had shared a dorm with in El Tunco, and Kane...both Aussies. Lovely homely hostel....just like a cosy house share. Cooked for the first time in weeks (months) and spent the evening watching movies with my housemates. Kane was planning to do the waterfall tour next day so decided to jump in with him ....despite the lingering cold.
    Set off at 8am with Kane and our guide Elmer and Billie the dog from the hostel. Picked up out second guide Jose and 2 more dogs at his house and off we went. What a wonderful day! Hiking through coffee finca first and then through stunning rain forest to the first of the 7 waterfalls I the day. Elemer was very informative about the landscape and particularly the coffee finca. He's been guiding for 12 years....despite looking like he was still 12. For the next 5 hours we walked through stunning hills and waterfalls and even got to grapple down one which was great fun. At the last one the boys made us a delicious lunch and then we headed for home. Probably one of the most enjoyable hikes of my trip so far!!
    Flaked on the couch after a little walk around town to check out Juayua. My cold definitely catching up with me. Was still on the couch when Tom arrived a few hours later. Had a little wander with him and then back to the hostel to cook and slob some more.
    Next day headed off on the chicken bus with Tom to check out more of the towns on the Ruta. Beautiful drive through the countryside, unfortunately the flowers that give this route it's name are not in bloom at the moment. It's still very beautiful but i'd say when they are in bloom it is something else. First stop was Ataco. Beautiful little town about 30 mins from Juayua. Much more touristy but like so much of El Sal there were no gringos in sight...apart from us of course. We spent the next few hours wandering around and checking out all the beautiful murals. Small cobbled streets and colourful houses abound. Had lunch in a little garden place that I think was Italian and was bizarrely playing Christmas songs in Italian...Andrea Bottelli Christmas compilation is my guess. Very funny. Bit more wandering and souvenir buying and then jumped back on the chicken bus and made our way to Apanece.
    Much smaller and less cute than Ataco but still nice. Not much to attract the tourists so it was quiet. Had a quick lap of the town and then back on the bus for home. Juayua was bustling and people set up for the weekend food festival. Back to the hostel and the evening bus deposited 3 Irish (Eoin, Majella & Eilis) to Casa Mazeta. Yay...people to watch the match with :)
    Up at 7 next morning to watch poor Ireland getting hammered by Belgium. 4 very subdued Irish on the couch by the end. Then onto the rugby...more disappointment . Had planned to move to suchitoto but really couldn't manage to drag myself away from the home comforts of Casa Mazeta so decided to stay another night. Went to check out the food festival with the Irish and Tom in the afternoon and later that night roused ourselves from our laziness and headed out with Susanna (who jointly owns the hostel) and some of her friends. Live music and good company led to a fun night and of course bitter end Roche stayed on with the two local boys when the others very sensibly went home(the Irish were hiking next day so they called it a night at a very sensible hour). Had great Spanglish chats with Cesar and his brother Diego and then they walked me back to the hostel after we had exhausted all options to find some Bachata....me of course.
    Needless to say my plan to be up and out by 8am for the long trip to Suchitoto went out the window next morning. Finally got on the road by 10....long day and 5 chicken busses ahead.
    Weiterlesen

  • El Tunco, El Salvador

    13. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    How long: two nights
    Stayed: Papaya Lodge
    Travelling with: Tom

    El Tunco is the surfing capital of El Salvador and from what I have read is one of the only stop offs most backpackers make in El Sal....much to their own loss. So I was expecting somewhere overrun with gringos
    Tom was making his way up from El Cuco so a arranged to meet in El Tunco. I had planned to try my hand again at surfing but after one look at the sea knew this wasn't going to happen. Absolutely beautiful black sand beach with wild waves....certainly not for beginners.
    Met Tom and headed straight down for a battering in the sea! It was rough and wonderful and so refreshing after my journey. Grabbed a bite and headed back to hostel for an early night as bad cold coming on.
    Next day was sick so had a quiet day split between beach and hostel. Went for a walk along the beach and came across a group of very cute young boys playing in the sand. They gave me a great show of hi jinx and acrobatics when they saw the camera come out...very entertaining. Met Wei by chance and had lunch with her and Tom. She tried to tempt me to go to Suchitoto with her next day...which would be the most sensible direction for me but will stick to my crazy plan to go north(again) and check out the Ruta de las Flores.
    Thankfully it being off season the town (and hostel) was quiet and not overrun with gringos so it was nice to just relax and nurse my cold.
    Very quiet couple of days in "the party capital of El Sal" getting sensible in my old age :)
    Was tempted to stay a third night but forced myself up and out and hit the road for Juayua.
    Weiterlesen

  • San Salvador, El Salvador

    11. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed:
    Travelling with: Solo

    Had reservations about going to San Sal as it doesn't have a good rep. But had to head there for camera fixing and also my friend Jane had put me in touch with a friend who lives there so figured had to check it out.
    Easy hour and half bus ride got me bus terminal occidente and plumped straight for a taxi...there are times to try and navigate the local city bus transport but decided this wasn't one of them .
    Got to hostel and after quick rest headed off in search of the camera shop. Zona Rosa (where my hostel was) is upscale SS with lots of poshish shops and restaurants and even an Irish bar. Totally safe and really quite dull. Found the camera shop and explained and the looked and said no sorry we don't repair...then his colleague had a look and laughed and said it's the filter...not the lens!! So embarrassed but also so happy...my expectations of a possible $600 for a new lens became $25 for new filter. Kicking myself for not realising and thus causing an unnecessary trip to San Sal. Note to self....learn about your bloody camera!
    Caught in massive rain on way back to hostel so arrived like drowned rat! Part of life at this time of year.
    Natalia and her boyfriend Diego picked me up a few hours later and took me out for the evening. Such a lovely couple and so generous with their time. Had some typical el salvadorian food and then for some popular el salvadorian entertainment. ...karaoke! Not my favourite pastime but great fun to watch Natalia and all her friends have a blast. What a lovely bunch of 25 year olds....I really felt old.
    Sunday spent at museum and art gallery. Tried to get to a local market but rain came down like nothing on earth so after sheltering for about 40 mins resorted to jumping jnto a very expensive taxi and to a mall to pass the afternoon.
    Monday into Centro to check out the manic mercado central and the Centro historico, including Inglesia Rosario which is a pretty ugly looking church from the outside but step into a little stained glass paradise.
    A few trials with buses getting out of the city but eventually managed to get myself very sweatily into a bus to El Tunco. San Sal exceeded albeit low expectations but happy enough to be leaving it behind and heading for the beach.
    Weiterlesen

  • Santa Ana, El Salvador

    9. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed: Case Verde Hostel
    Travelling with: Susan

    Up early and after a delicious brekkie at Mama's we jumped on the chicken bus back to Ahuachapan and then got a mototaxi (tuk tuk) to Santa Theresa Thermales. These are natural hot springs about 7km outside Ahuachapan where we spent a very nice and relaxing few hours soothing out weary bones in the hot water. We then got a lift back to town from the owner who was happy to meet us as his hero...one Donald Trump was apparently from Irish heritage. He was not impressed with the ferocity with which this was denied. I couldn't get over how a Latin American could support that shit but when I realised he was also a staunch Arena supporter it made a lot more sense. I was unusually reserved in my politics tho....was happy with the lift and didn't want to be ejected into the rain :)
    He dropped us to the chaotic market where the bus for Santa Ana was departing and off we went on yet another packed chicken bus. Arrived in Santa Ana in early evening and made our way to Casa Verde with the help of many friendly locals...and I bought a $3 outfit along the way.
    Casa Verde turned out to be a really lovely hostel run by a great guy called Carlos who was super hostel. He recommended we eat in a place called Simmer Down and even got one of the guys working in the hostel to drive us there. Lovely meal and then home where we met up with Carlos and some of his buddies and had a few beers with them and checked out the roof terrace. Nice view of Santa Ana and we got to experience "Il Sereno" which is basically the neighbourhood watch and consists of a guy cycling around town all night (with a massive fun of course) and blowing a whistle every few metres to let the people know I is there keeping them safe. Apparently a lot of towns have their own Il Serena.
    Next day got up early and headed off to climb Santa Ana volcano with two guys from the hostel...Wei from Singapore and Juan from NZ. Caught a bus at 7.30 to take us to this national park where we had to wait til eleven for the tour to go up. Only one tour per day as you have to have an armed police escort and I guess they not into hiking too much. As we waited we saw 9 bus loads of teenage school kids pull up and as we tried to convince ourselves that there was no way they were doing the hike, the dread did start to set in. At 11 we saw them start to gather and panic set in so we went to investigate where we were told that they were doing a different volcano (phew) BUT the only two police there were going with them so we couldn't do Santa Ana. Gutted but no amount of pleading could change it. So we hung about despondantly for a while and were about to give up when a pick-up full of shiney new police turned up and after much pleading the boss agreed to take us up. So off we went (at a sprint) with our own personal heavily armed police man...who was evidently in a hurry as we did the two hour climb in 45 mins! But oh was it so worth it!! Such amazing views and a reminder...if I needed it...of why I was travelling. Another sprint back down and the 4 of us loaded into the back of the police pickup and dropped to the next town to get the bus home. A nearly disastrous day turned into an exceptional experience.
    Nice chilled night back in Case Verde to round off a really good day.
    Up and out next morning to check out the Saturday market in Santa Ana and then pack up and go out separate ways. Susan heading on to Honduras and I making my way back to San Salvador to try and get camera fixed and then decide where next for me in El Sal. So much to see in this wonderful country that I felt I couldn't leave yet so opted to stay longer. Susan unfortunately on a tighter schedule so she had to press on.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tacuba, El Salvador.

    7. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed: Mama y Papa hostel
    Travelling with: Susan

    Long old days travel but also quite enjoyable. El Salvador continues to surprise and impress with its amazingly friendly and helpful people.
    We got the chicken bus from outside Tortufa Verde to San Miguel, everyone we met saying hello and smiling warmly. In San Miguel we asked about our onward bus and were immediately snatched up and hurried to the waiting bus which was about to leave...fastest transfer in history. Reaching San Salvador a few hours later we were besieged by taxi drivers the minute we left the bus but they were not aggressive and when we decided to stop for something to eat one guy led us to a table at a nearby stall and left us with a polite "if you need a taxi later, remember me"
    Lunch was our first (of what was to become many) experience of the local dish "papusa" which is corn tortilla stuffed with local (salty) cheese and beans. Some places have chicken and fish or apoya (a spinachy type green) but cheese and beans is the standard. All served with pickled cabbage and a got tomato sauce. Served piping hot straight from the griddle and eaten with your fingers.....asbestos hands definitely coming in handy here :)
    Our lunch host was a lovely lady called Patti who we (Susan) had a great chat with and we ended up spending hours there chatting and deliberating our onward destination. Finally we decided to head to Ahuachapan which involved getting to one of the other bus stations in San Sal and getting the bus from there. Taxi man had hovered all afternoon and finally thought his luck was in when Patti whipped off her apron and announced she was driving us to the other station. And so she did!!! And came in with us and made sure we got safely on to the next bus....and checked in with us on facebook later to make sure we arrived safely! Such a gem!
    We changed in Ahuachapan and made our way to Tacuba on a very packed chicken bus where we were the center of attention....they don't get any gringos up there! Got off in Tacuba and were wandering a little aimlessly when an arm came out of a doorway and pointed us in the right direction. We arrived at Mama y Papas in the early evening and after a nice chat with mama we headed off to the local papusa place (daughters sent up to the hostel to collect us in case we got lost) and then had an early night ahead of our hike in El Impossible next day.
    Up and breakfasted and on our way mashed into the front of an old pickup by 8am. Eric our driver looked about 12 but apparently had been driving in the national park for 5 years....a fact I was very glad of as we were skidding all over the mountain track in a rain storm a few hours later. He dropped us off after about 30 mins and Avil took over....not a word of English so we were really going to have to test out limited Spanish. For the next 4 hours he walked us through the park through some spectacular countryside and gave us some facinating information on the local plants and their medicinal powers....none of which I can remember now of course. Absolutely stunning scenery but one really bad moment when i took out my camera to find that the lens was smashed! Trauma! And no idea when it happened!!
    After about 4 hours we got to the coffee finca belonging to mama and papa where the pickup would meet us. As we waited there we played with the 4 young kids of the couple who live there...the fifth was in school. Beautiful, well minded kids but they really had nothing. We found out later that the couple were both 26! According to mama there is a very high birth rate among the poor....the fault of which she lays very firmly at the door of the church....which was surprising considering her home was a mini shrine to the virgin Mary.
    After a very hairy journey where I did have visions of us plunging down a ravine in the deluge we got back to mamas and spent the evening watching the rain and the ducks in the back garden. Nice chilled evening and early to bed!
    Weiterlesen

  • El Cuco, El Salvador

    6. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed: Tortuga Verde
    Travelling with: Susan and Andreas

    Great journey to get here!! Woke up late after the excitement of the night before and headed off in the rain to find a way to get to El Cuco. We were told we had to get a bus to San Miguel and then another from San Miguel to El Cuco. Bus to San Miguel pretty uneventful but when we got there it as pretty clear that not too many gringos passed through that bus station. We were definitely the centre of attention....but in a very warm friendly way. We hung out waiting for the bus with every movement scrutinised and giggled about. The bathroom attendant even followed me in to make sure I was ok and that i found the soap dispenser :)
    Bus eventually arrived and then the fun really began. It was an old American school bus as many of the local busses in central America are. Colloquially known as chicken busses...for obvious reasons. This one was colourfully painted and at least 100 years old. Looked amazing. The next hour and a half were a riot as every single person on the bus was watching us and laughing at every move we made. Andreas made friends with a local guy called Gustavo who took a million pics of us and got our email addresses so he could send us "news". Even the bus driver was involved as he followed all the action in his mirror and shouted out comments to all his buddies...much to the hilarity of the whole bus. Probably one of the most entertaining bus journeys of my life. Everyone in El Salvador we have met so far has been amazingly welcoming and friendly. Off to a very good start!
    The Torture Verde is a beautiful hostel/resort . Right on the beach and all laid out beautifully with cabins and restaurant/ bar among coconut and mango trees. Spent two very nice relaxing days there and i had a wee surf but finding the waves in El Sal a bit tougher than Nica.
    Weiterlesen

  • La Union, El Salvador

    4. Juni 2016 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    How long: 1 night
    Stayed: Portobello Hotel
    Travelling with: Susan and Andreas

    Planes, trains and automobiles!! What a journey.
    Got a collectivo from Leon to chenindenga. We had to be in Potosi to get the boat at 10.30am but when we arrived in chenindenga at 8am we were told there no collectivos going there...just the big chicken bus and that wasn't going til 9.30. So we had to get a taxi...for $40. Needless to say this did not help my mood at all.
    Arrived in potosi which is a one street shithole to find that the boat we were supposed to be travelling on was not a ferry as I had been told...but a panga...fine for short trips but this was going to be over two hours. Then we had to wait for immigration to open and process our exit and then wait for a group of 14 people to turn up....which they did 3 hours later....by which time I was no longer able to speak with rage. One more hour to process them thru immigration and finally at 2.30 we set off. Straight into a massive storm. Driving rain, thunder and lightening and driving in circles to avoid capsizing. Joy. Arrived in La Union over 3 hours later soaking wet but thankfully alive. I was expecting an admission from Susan that maybe the shuttle might have been better..
    considering the journey we had just had. But no...the mad woman was elated!! Amazing journeym..loved it! More proof she is totally mental :) Made our way to immigration and our first taste of El Salvador.
    The rain as like nothing on earth so we were like drownded rats arriving into the immigration office. But they couldn't have been nicer. I was decked out in my sexy raincoat (black bin bag) and the immigration officer was loving it. Taking pics and generally acting the maggots. He even made us coffee as we were there so long avoiding the rain and trying to work out a way to get out of there. Certainly not what you'd expect from an border immigration office. We had planned to go straight from La Union to the beach at el cuco but cos of being so late the bus was gone and no taxi would take us cos of the rain and bad roads so we were stuck in La Union...which lonely planet had written off as one to avoid.
    Susan had met a nice Chilean guy (Andreas) in potosi and on the boat (i was too cranky to talk to anyone) and he was also stuck there for the night so we teamed up and went in search of a hotel...a search made so much easier as he was our translator. Eventually found somewhere and quickly changed and went out for a much needed beer and dinner. Went to La Bahia which is basically the only place in town and this was even deserted cos of the rain. But we had the most delicious seafood meal ever!! La Bahia also the town nightclub so after dinner we popped over for one beer and a dance. Very few people there but they all having a great time so we joined in. And what a night. Great dancing and lots of $1 beers. Susan won a dancing competition with one of the local boys even tho she didn't know it was a competition ....and the prize...more beer! :) straggled home in the wee hours after a really unexpected amazing night out in La Union.
    Weiterlesen

  • Leon, Nicaragua

    1. Juni 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    How long: 3 night's
    Stayed: Lazybones Hostel
    Travelling with: Susan and Tom

    Sadly said goodbye to Pete in Managua and after mucho haggling with the taxi driver we agreed in a price and hit the road for Leon, stopping off enroute to pick up Toms surfboard from the hostel.
    Arrived in Leon around lunchtime and immediately went for food in a great little place called San Benito. Less than 2 dollars for a feed. Was liking Leon already.
    Spent the afternoon wandering and exploring. Leon is the revolutionary home of Nicaragua. Here was the Sandinista stronghold and saw a lot of fighting during the revolution and subsequent contra war. It's a very beautiful colonial city with the biggest cathedral in central and south America. Probably not as pretty as Granada but I think I preferred it as it has a much nicer atmosphere and much less touristy. And a lot cheaper! First day a want to a really lovely art gallery in an old colonial villa...great selection of central American art. Following day we went to the cathedral and got to walk along the roof...which was really beautiful with great views of the city. Susan and I then got a tour of revolutionary Leon from one of the old Sandinista rebels (Jaime). Spanish only so we didn't get everything but what we did understand was fascinating and he was very passionate about the history. Reagan pretty much a swear word in these parts.
    Next day was sublime to the ridiculous as Tom and I went Volcano Boarding on the Cerro Verde Volcano. 45 minute truck ride at 8am out to the volcano and then another 45 minute hike up the volcano with your board on your back. Tough but beautiful hike and the views were amazing...especially into the smoking crater. Then you get togged out in a massive denim suit. Put goggles and a scarf over your face and then sit on your board and slide down a very very steep volcano. Totally ridiculous but great fun!! I was slightly terrified as it as sooooo steep but you can break with your feet so you can control your speed. Tom of course flew down but my decent was slightly more sedate! Got to the bottom and we all opted to go again. So off we went on another 45 minute hike to do it all again!
    Back to Leon in the afternoon to meet up with Susan and wash the volcano ash off. Covered from head to toe! Time to plan the next steps so Susan and I walked to the bus station to check out the transport options. That was an experience in itself as it was totally chaotic and was part bus station part market part general madness! Great to see and we definitely in a minority(of two) as this was definitely not a gringo hangout. Got some sketchy info about buses to Potosi which would have us up at the crack of dawn and home we went to pack and enjoy our last evening with Tom. He was staying on in Nicaragua to do some more surfing and we needed to start moving north as Susan was running out of time.
    There was a little bit of dissention in the ranks that evening as I was questioning the logic of the planned route...chicken bus to chenindenga, another chicken bus to potosi, boat to la union and another bus to our destination in El Cuco. When there was a direct shuttle from Leon to El Cuco for much cheaper. But Susan was determined to get the boat so I fell into line(not gracefully)
    Had a nice last evening with Tom and got at 6 the following morning, said our goodbyes and set off on the epic journey.
    Weiterlesen

  • Corn Islands, Nicaragua

    24. Mai 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    How long: 6 Nights
    Stayed: Mimundo (big corn), Green House & Elsa's Place (little corn)
    Travelling with: Susan, Tom & Pete

    Flew from Managua to big Corn on an amazing little 12 seater plane which was pretty cool and amazing views as it flew so low. Met a new friend on the plane...Pete from Switzerland who lives just beside lake Konstanz. He was surprised to find that I had lived there. Naturally thought I would speak German...bless him! He was to be our partner in crime for the next week...and even managed to understand Susan...eventually! :)
    Stayed one night in Big Corn and had a really nice cycle around the island, stopping off for beer and fresh fish lunch and a swim on a beautiful beach. Finished off with a beer watching yet another beautiful sunset on Aeanis beach. Then back to the hostel where the boys cooked us dinner and we chilled and chatted. Next day we headed off to little corn on a Panga.
    Little Corn was a treat. No cars and everything within a 30 minute walk. The first language of the people is an English Creole that sounds like Jamaica. Island was once inhabited by British Pirates who brought in African Slaves to grow corn...hence the name and the caribbean culture. So funny to hear that accent in central america. Everyone so wonderfuly friendly and helpful. We stayed first two nights in a hostel that was fine apart from being stinking hot. The island has water and electricity scarcity so power is turned off from 6am to 1pm every day. So at 1 minute past six you are awake in a lather of sweat as the fan goes off. Even Susan was getting up early! Third day we moved to the other side of the island where there was a fabulous sea breeze and we got ourselves two little cabanas right on the water. Next few days were spent relaxing, snorkeling, swimming and eating. Bliss. The island is covered in mango trees and they fall to the ground and lie there for anyone to eat. Going for nice walks and fuelling myself with fresh mango along the way. Loved it.
    We met a really lovely English/French couple (Kelly and Dorian) who had moved to the island and were building a house. Many evenings spent at the happy hour with them (where everyone seemed to congregate). Saturday night we ended up in the local Raggae Bar until the wee hours of the morning. Great fun!!!
    Susan and I went snorkelling twice and saw Baracuda, Nurse Sharks, black tipped Reef Shark, Eagle Rays, Sting Rays, and so many different types of fish. The water was an amazing turquoise colour and crystal clear.
    Unfortunately we couldn't stay for ever so after a week we got the boat back to big corn, spent one night there and took the early flight back to Managua on the 1st.
    Weiterlesen

  • Managua, Nicaragua

    23. Mai 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ 🌬 33 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed: Managua Backpackers Inn.
    Travelling with: Susan and Tom.
    Arrived at the Managua Backpackers on May 22nd after a quick trip from Laguna Apoyo.
    Said goodbye to Derek at Paradiso and Vinnie when we got to Managua.
    Very lazy time as a detox from the shenanigans of Apoyo. Chilling by the pool and a little trip to the local mall. First time I have visited somewhere and seen none of the place (mall doesn't count).
    Pretty shameful really but sometimes it's needed.
    Weiterlesen

  • Laguna Apoyo, Nicaragua

    21. Mai 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed: Paradiso Hostel
    Travelling with: Susan, Derek, Tom & Vinnie

    Such a fantastic couple of days spent in the Paradiso Hostel at Laguna Apoyo. This place wasn't on the agenda at all but as we were sitting on the hostel in Granada and Tom was describing it and told us his plan to go we decided to jump in. Also managed to convince Vinnie to join us for a couple of days.
    Got a shuttle with Susan and Derek after we had recovered (somewhat) from the effecst of the night before and made the short trip to Paradiso and were met with a little taste of Paradise.
    The lake is basically the crater of an extinct volcano and the hostel is perched on the edge with its feet dangling in the water. Such amazing views and a wonderful chilled out vibe. The water is amazing, warm, clean and so refreshing.
    Next two days and nights spent swimming, floating in inner tubes, eating lots and drinking way too much rum and coke. Met some crazy people (a girl called Kitten for example), had some adventures (including some naked, midnight crater swimming) and generally made the most of this great place. Fun times with great peoole!!
    Was sad to leave but the journey must go on!
    Weiterlesen

  • Granada, Nicaragua

    18. Mai 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    How long: 3 nights
    Stayed: Sierra Hostel, De Boca en Boca
    Travelling with: Susan, Derek and Tom ( met Vinnie)

    Lazily took taxi from San Jorge with Susan and Derek and arrived in Granada at about 2 to find that our hostel reservation had been lost and we were now roomless. The guy in the hostel was very apologetic tho and was trying to help so it was hard to be annoyed with him. He helped us book somewhere else for the night and promised a free brekkie in his hostel for the following morning so off we went to sweat our way to our new hostel. Granada is bloody hot!!
    Dumped stuff and headed out for a wander.
    Granada is a beautiful "colonial" city(town) but prob not as nice as I was expecting...but that may be because I am spoilt after spending time in Cartagena...which really is a gem!! After a delicious lunch at the lovely Garden Cafe we headed off and saw a good chunk of the city and countless churches and cathedrals. After a few hours wansering in the heat we were then sorely in need of a cold beer and so finding ourselves in a very touristy, bar filled street we decided to take a rest.
    The minute O'Sheas was spotted by Ms Feirtear I knew all was lost but as they had outside tables I tried to convince myself I was not really in an Irish bar in Nicaragua! That self deception wasn't to last unfortunately as she proceeded to take a pic and tag us on facebook...so i was ruined.
    Being stuck in a particularly bad insomniac phase I headed home to bed at 8pm while the guys headed out and ended up in yet another Irish bar.
    Woke up the next morning to Susan asleep on the floor....as the top bunk was too hot!! Had to laugh...from 4 star NYC hotels to the floor of a dorm in just over a week...her words :)
    Next day was spent exploring more of the town with a visit to the cemetary, which was really fascinating with hugely imposing and ornate graves and a lot of memorials and graces from the Sandanistas. Next we hit the market which was hot and sweaty and a little manic and stinky but strangely enjoyable too. Back to the hostel and met up with Tom who had followed us on from Ometepe and then went out to the Garden Cafe again...so good we had to go back for more.
    Evening was spent chilling at the hostel with a few beers and a bucket of guacamole.
    Next day, after lots of faffing and messing around we finally got moving and Tom, Susan and I hired some bikes and went for a spin around town. In the afternoon we went on a kayak tour of the islets which was really great fun and really beautiful.
    Back to the hostel where we met up with Vinnie, a Kiwi friend of Tom's who joined our merry band. Later headed out in search of some Latin dancing and after trying a few dead end options we ended up back in the Irish bar...much to my consternation. Turned out to be great fun tho and with enough Latin music to keep me on the dancefloors for the night showing off.
    The night ended with people leaving in dribs and drabs and unfortunately us all ignoring the frequently received local advice of always getting a taxi at night...even for just a few blocks. Most of us got home fine but unfortunately not all. Susan was attacked and brought to the ground with a punch as he went for her bag. Thankfully Vinnie and a very brave Aoife from Carlow jumped in and fought them off but not before they had grabbed Aoifes bag. Scary stuff.
    Everyone ok apart from a few cuts and bruises but a stark reminder to us all that we need to heed the local advice and as per Susans text to me that night....GET A FUCKING TAXI! :)
    So, Granada was great. Stayed in a really lovely hostel and people are lovely and helpful and open. However, there is a lot of poverty there too and crime is getting worse....with gormless gringos being the main target.
    Weiterlesen

  • Ilsa Ometepe, Nicaragua

    17. Mai 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    How long: 3 nights
    Where stayed: The landing Hostel, Moyagalpo
    Travelling with: Susan, Derek & Tom

    Finally got it together to leave San Juan and make out way to Isla Ometepe where we were going to meet up with Tom. After much farting around and talk of local buses and saving money we ended up in Kenneth's car again taking the lazy option. About an hour to San Jorge and then we got a ferry over to the island. Ometepe is basically an island created from the eruptions of two volcanos. Volcan Conception and Maderas. Conception is still active but there hasn't been any activity for a long time. Maderas is extinct and is covered in a cloud forest. Coming over on the ferry you get a great view of both of them.
    Arrived about 2 and met up with Tom at The Landing hostel. So good to see him again so we repaired to the roof to drink some beers and catch up.
    Next day we hired some scooters and went to explore the island. Derek crashed his into a wall before we left the shop so he had to go pilion with Tom. Spent a lovely day zipping around the island stopping off in an interesting little museum, then over to Santa Domingo for lunch, after which we got stopped by the police and got told off cos we werent carrying our drivers licences. They told us we would have to leave the bikes and walk home. This went on for a while and finally they relented and sent us on our way with a warning. Next stop was a wonderful natural pool in the forest. Beautiful cool water to cool off on a stinking hot day. There was a tarzan swing out over the water which tom was like a monkey on. Susan eventually decided to give it a go and let go immediately and landed in the water about 1cm from the wall. My heart stopped as i was sure she had split her head open...i wasn't the only one...the whole place was watching then erupted with relief when she surfaced unharmed. Needless to say she was barred from the swing for the rest of the day. Started to get late so time to go but on way home got caught in the mother and father of a rain storm...literally couldn't see! Finally made it back to town where the road back to the bike shop had turned into a river! Great fun...once the bike was safely returned :) Had a quiet night as had to be up at the crack of dawn to head off to climb Maderas. We got a taxi to the base, picking up our guide along the way. Started walking about 8 and as it was another hot sticky day so we were all dripping with sweat within minutes. Susan started to lag and was finding it tough going, as the climb intensified and a got further into the cloud forest it started to get really slippy and wet. After about an hour she had to admit defeat and turn back. The guide called the driver and got him to go back for her. A continued but after a few more minutes Derek decided he had enough too and turned back. So it was just Tom and me and the guide. We ploughed on and it started to get really tough. The cloud forest is basically always raining so the higher you go the wetter it gets....so we were slipping and sliding through rivers of mud on an almost vertical climb! Eventually made it to the top and down into the crater which was really cool but unfortunately a dark rain cloud had settled at the top so we could see nothing. We made a brief stop for lunch and then set off back down again just as the rain came on in force....same as day before. So it was a very wet and slippery decent! But we ploughed on and made it down in record time. Great feeling!
    Back to town for a much needed shower, quick nap and then we treated ourselves to a nice dinner and wine...a rare treat!!
    Decided time to head off so we made plans to head to Granada the next day while Tom opted for one more day in Ometepe.
    Weiterlesen

  • San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

    7. Mai 2016 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    How long: 6 Nights
    Stayed: Colonial Hotel, Sueno del Mar, Eco Hotel Playa Hermosa
    Travelling with: Susan and Derek

    Finally made it to San Juan del Sur after a long days travel!! Set off from San Jose at 10 on a local bus that took 7 hours to get to the border. No aircon and so the bus was about a million degrees. Window open with a breeze like a hairdyer to the face. Got dropped on the Costa Rica side of the borderd and had to go to exit immigration there. Then walk a few 100 metres down the road to the Nicaraguan side. All very straight forward...thanks to the numerous blogs i had read in advance. Came out of immigration and got pounced on by bus and taxi touts. Unfortunately got a bit fleeced now! Ended up paying 12 dollars for a 15 minute bus journey...3 more than I paid for the previous 7 hour one! And they promised to drop me in the middle of a town where there were loads of taxis to take me the rest of the way....a journey that would cost me $2. In fact when they dropped me on the side of the road where there was one taxi charging $10. Fuckers! Wandered the road a bit until I met a kindly lady who explained that there were colectivos passing that way and she the stopped one for me. I paid the gringo rate....which was at least double the local but at that stage prob would have paid the $10 just to get off the road. And off we went. Dropped me at the hotel where I met up with Susan.
    Saturday night in San Juan so after a short rest and shower we headed out for a lovely Tapas meal. Then on for a drink and ended up in Corcks "irish" bar....needless to say that was Susans doing. Corcks was full of all the local alcoholics which was fun at first but got very tiresome with lots of unwelcome attention. Didn't stay long.
    Next day we took a wander around town and then settled on the beach for the afternoon. Derek turned up at about 5 and we had a few nice beers on the beach and caught a beautiful sunset!
    Next day we set off looking for a taxi/shuttle to take us to the beach and met up with Kenneth who was to be our chauffaur and surfing coach for the next week. Over next few days we visited Playa Marsella which was a stunning, almost deserted beach with an amazing sunset and the best lobster i have had in a while. Playa Ramonsa where we had out first surfing lesson and the best fish tacos ever, Playa Hermosa which lived up to its name and where i had two more surfing lessons and rode my first (and only ) green wave. We stayed out in the eco lodge in Hermosa for a night which was really lovely and then headed back to San Juan for one last night. Beautiful almost deserted beaches and breathtaking sunsets. Sunset photo count...abiut 12 thousand!
    Last night in San Juan we headed out for a party, which was great fun until my bag was snatched from my hand on the way home by two boys on a motorbike. Had to admire the efficiency! Thankfully I had left phone and cards at home so was just down some cash and my lovely bag. But it was a lesson....a crossy over bag should be worn as a crossy over bag and not carried in your hand as a little gift to the local yewts!
    All in all a very enjoyable time in San Juan and environs. Lots of laughs and good to be with some Irish again :)
    Weiterlesen

  • San Jose, Costa Rica

    5. Mai 2016 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    How long: 2 nights
    Stayed: Pangea Hostel, Barrio Amon
    Travelling with: Solo

    San Jose.
    Long old journey to San Jose. Close to 12 hours of boat, mini bus, big bus with lots of hanging around and messing. But got there in the end. Got to the hostel late so it was pretty much straight to bed. Late start next day and after breakfast went for a wander. San Jose really not a pretty city with not a lot going for it. Checked out the city centre and then went to the national museum for a few hours. Back to hostel to chill for a while and then went out to meet Susans friend Bernard for a drink in a nice area called Barrio Escalante. He's ex digicel so it was an evening of digicel bashing :)
    Dropped me back to hostel where I met up with Derek who had just arrived. Quick beer and a disgusting burrito from the local takeaway and off to bed.
    Weiterlesen

  • Bocas Del Toro, Panama

    1. Mai 2016 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    How long: 4 Nights
    Stayed: Selina Hostel
    Travelling with: Shira and Solo

    Arrived in Bocas after a sleepless night bus from Panama City. No idea why they have to have the busses so cold!! Met Matin and Yardin in the bus station in Panama and they were travelling on same bus. Parted way in Bocas and Shira and I went to our hostel which was right on the water so a win straight off. Chilled for a while and then decided to hit the beach which was a taxi boat across from us. Came back in the late afternoon and treated ourselves to a lovely meal in an Indonesian restaurant on the water. Next day got some bikes and went for a cycle across the island to bluff beach....absolutely stunning. Deserted and just sea and sand for as far as the eye can see. Next day we opted for a boat tour out to the national park and Isla Zapatillas beautiful deserted island where we spent a few hours relaxing and swimming. Stopped off to try and spot some sloths (Oso Perezoso) on an island on the way back. Saw one lazy bear far up in the trees but needless to say he was sleeping.
    Back to hostel, had some dinner with Shira and she opted for another early night (we had been in bed by 9.30 every night) but i reckoned it was time to discover why Bocas was called a party town. Had a fun night out with the two Israeli boys until they disappeared then was chatting to the local police....yep out drinking...and some French Canadians.
    Shira headed off next morning but I opted to stay another day and then head to San Jose next day. Easy day, reading and swimming. In the evening met a nice NYC girl called Jackie in the hostel so we headed out for dinner and back to the hostel when the Israeli boys came to meet us. Bit of madness ensued which involved high dives into the sea in the middle of a bar....never too old!! :)
    Very painful start next day but was happy made the most of my time in Bocas
    Weiterlesen

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