San Sebastián

Wow, what a beautiful day of walking, and now an afternoon enjoying this beautiful city. I left Irun at about 7:15, and in the first 10 minutes I saw about 12 other pilgrims! Shocking! But once I got up to the sanctuary of Guadalupe, where the Camino splits into several options, I was virtually alone all the way into San Sebastián.

This walk has several parts. Once you go up the mountain behind the sanctuary, you are walking along the ridge, with amazing views off to the ocean. It was a little cloudy for this part, but that's OK, because it is great walking weather and there was no shade up there. Would be very hot in morning sun. When you go down to the tiny village of Pasajes de San Juan, there's a little ferry boat to take you across the inlet.

Then another ascent, and another beautiful coastal walk until finally the big San Sebastián beach is right below you and you walk into town. At one point about 5 km outside of the city, there was a split. The Camino went to the left, but there was a marker for the GR 121 to the right. Luckily, there was a man out walking his dogs along the coast, and I asked him if he knew both routes. He told me that the Camino path takes you up to an asphalt road for the descent to Pasajes. But the GR121 hugs the coast and stays off road. Guess which I took?! Maybe a km or two longer and a bit more up and down but just no comparison.

Lesson number one on the Camino del Norte-- whenever there is a GR option, take it!

I am in a pension again, but will probably start with the Albergue routine tomorrow. I've just finished a menu del día that was excellent. Mixed greens with pequillo peppers and tuna; some grilled fish from the sea that I didn't know (faneca); homemade cuajada (a yoghurt-like concoction but made of sheep milk, one of my favorites). All for 12 euros. The Spanish meal times work very well for me when I'm walking. I try to arrive at my destination no later than 2 or 230, shower and wash clothes, and go out to eat. Since they serve lunch till 4 PM, this works great. Time for a stroll to buy some new socks and walk along the beach. I am so lucky!Read more