To Las Medulas

Great day, not too hot (yet), and lots of really nice paths, through vineyards, fruit orchards, or forests.

It’s a stiff ascent to the little town of Villavieja, and the other two times I have walked it, there were great views of the castle of Cornatel, perched on a cliff and looking impregnable. But today it was covered in fog.

Villavieja is the little town where the serfs who worked in the castle lived. Today it’s a pretty little hamlet with an albergue and some casas rurales. From there to the (closed) castle is a short ascent.

When I got to the town of Borrenes, I decided to take an alternative path up to Las Médulas. My camino pal Amancio had recommended it, and it was a good recommendation. A bit harder, more ascent, but it takes you straight to the iconic overlook and then down to town. Now I don’t have to spend my post-lunch hours walking up there!

These weird rick formations, btw, are what’s left after the Romans built a complicated channel system and pumped water through to blow up the mountain and disgorge the gold.

Hands down my favorite tree is the chestnut, and this area is chock full of them. Life keeps springing out of dead trunks, it seems like a metaphor.Read more