Singing in the Rain to La Espina

My GPS says 33km and 1077 m elevation gain. I believe the kms but not the elevation. I think that’s way too much. Anyway, in spite of the rain, it was really a pretty good day. When I woke up at around six, I saw that it wasn’t raining. So I decided to have a quick cup of coffee in my room (thank you Clare for that wonderful coil) so I could take off a little earlier, rather than wait for breakfast in the hotel. That was a good decision, because I had the first 3 1/2 or four hours with no rain. Lots of ups and downs, lots of pretty green valleys, but lots of fog so it was hard to see. Luckily since this is the fourth time I’ve done this route, I have pretty clear memories of the beautiful countryside. But it would be nice to see it!

The rain started at about 11, it was very gentle at first but by about noon it started coming down hard. As a good Camino friend has pointed out, once you are totally wet you don’t get any wetter so there’s really not a problem walking once you get soaked through.

I took a rest in Salas before the last 6 km, knowing that there were some pretty steep ascents. I found a nice looking place with tables under an awning, but unfortunately the café was closed for a weekly rest day. I stayed at the table and ate some stuff out of my pack which is always a good idea since it lightens your weight.

For anyone who’s walked the Primitivo, you know that a stop at Bodenaya is required. I would have loved to stay there, but because of Covid, I resisted. David is one of those old school hospitaleros, who really believes in the Camino and what it does for people. We had a really nice talk and I was sorry to say goodbye.

Clothes are washed (whether they will ever dry is another question), I am showered, and I’m heading out to buy some more fruit and nuts for my pack. Looks like the next few days will all have rain, but I long ago stopped worrying or complaining about that!Read more