Braga to Caldelas (20 km)

Today I started a new camino. Leaving Braga there are several choices. The first one is to head north west to Ponte De Lima (one of my favorite towns in Portugal) and join the central Portuguese camino. I’ve walked that caminho, so I am trying something new.

The Caminho I’ve chosen is called the Geira e dos Arrieiros, Geira refers to the Roman road that linked Braga to Astorga. Arrieiros refers to the men in the Middle Ages who transported Ribeiro wine to the north of the peninsula, where it was highly regarded. This caminho takes you on some of their old paths. There is a very active and passionate Association promoting the route. There are also two other routes, the Miñota y Ribeiro and the Camino São Bento. Arrows all over the place in different directions.

I slept in and sauntered down for breakfast at 7:30, which is very late for a peregrina. The day started by walking back down to the Visigothic chapel I visited yesterday, And on the way down I reminded myself that my Camino buddies Nick and Wendy had warned me to pay careful attention and be sure to get on the right Camino. Well right at the chapel, I met Bruno, a Portuguese pilgrim heading for the central route. We chatted about the different routes, and then about his trips to Chicago and San Francisco, and then about my town in Illinois, and then about gun violence in the United States (not my choice of topic), and then it occurred to me to look at my GPS. And guess what, I was on the wrong route. With my stellar GPS skills, I was able to get myself over to the right route without totally backtracking, but I added about 3 km to my total. Bruno insisted on walking me back, since he felt like it was partially his fault, which is of course nonsense.

The rest of the way was all on pavement with a few brief sections on dirt paths. I had a snack and a rest at the Monastery of Santo Antonio de Rentufe. No way to get inside, though I saw some pictures that looked interesting.

As I arrived in Caldelas, I came by a little hotel with a nice outdoor garden. The albergue is only another few hundred meters, but I just decided to give this place a try. I am sure the albergue is very nice but I tell myself I have surely filled my albergue quota by now.

My afternoon entertainment consisted in checking out the spa. Waters for intestinal problems. Another spout had water for liver, kidney, and one other organ I didn’t understand. Medical prescription required.Read more