Castro Laboreiro to Cortegada (30 km)

When I saw that there were 1300 m of descent on today’s stage I have to admit I groaned. That’s so hard on the knees. But off I went.

It had been raining over night, so there were “water amenities“ every time the camino took me off road to those narrow rocky paths surrounded by rock walls. Sometimes it was deep mud, and sometimes it was standing water. Finding the best way over was not always easy. Even without pools of water or mud, going down on slippery rocks made for a very slow going. In fact this was probably my longest walking day yet. I just had to take my time.

When I got to the Spanish border, I emerged onto a totally deserted but paved road. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t have been so thrilled, but to have a large chunk of descent on a road with no rocks and no mud to navigate was really great.

The highlight of the day for me was walking through pine forests, especially when I was close to the Deva River,

I wouldn’t say it was a five star day, but it was pleasant enough. The only real downer for me was that one of my hiking poles collapsed. I am getting some advice on how to fix it but I guess I’ll be fine with just one. People on the Camino forum are tremendously helpful, and are sending me YouTube videos of how to fix the problem. One Spanish friend suggested I take it to a car repair shop, on the theory that they will certainly have some thing to fix it with. Since the solution seems to lie with some strong adhesive, that does sound like a good suggestion, and I will probably try it tomorrow.

I am in the town of Cortegada, which is probably the saddest town I’ve been in so far. Nothing going on, 80% of the houses seem to be falling down, but there is a beautifully restored balneario down on the river. I was surprised that it was built in 1937, as the Civil War was in full swing.

Thankfully, Cortegada has the Casa de Conde, a small guesthouse that gives pilgrims a good price. No restaurants, but I can use their kitchen, so I am fine. Onward tomorrow!Les mer