Feas to Soutelo de Montes (21 km)

Another pretty short day with a fair amount of elevation (750 m by my GPS). Just a few small villages with most of the kms in pine forests or those Galician green tunnels with stone walls on either side. I’ve walked in countryside like this many times on this camino and others, but there are always breath-catching moments —like looking back down over Feas as the sun rose, or being in a green tunnel as bright sun dappled through.

The only town on this stage is Beariz, where many pilgrims stay. Since it was only nine or 10 km from my starting point, I wanted to keep going. As I passed by the municipal building, I saw that the door was open. That was unusual for a Saturday, but I stuck my head in and said —hola? Turns out the mayor was in, catching up on work and being available to citizens who couldn’t come during the week. He was very happy to stamp my credential and to explain how important the Camino could be for his town. He has been mayor for 39 years, which is probably a record of some sort. He insisted on giving me a cultural review from the town, which I have carried with me and will look at this afternoon. But I don’t think it will come any further, because it weighs at least a pound.

I am in a well-positioned but not very inspiring town for the night. There is a small hostel which is clean and right on the route.

Three more days walking to Santiago. If the stars at home align right, I will continue to the ocean. But I am nothing if not flexible, and I may be home sooner.Read more