Alpera to Alatoz, 27 km

The first three days of this camino were in the mountains. Lots of huffing and puffing on steep ascents, spectacular views at the top, and some descents requiring lots of attention and careful picking of the rocky route down. Then came a couple of days, like the one from Villena to Caudete or Caudete to Almansa, that were flat, brown, monotonous, dull, exposed, alongside the highway. Those are the penitential days. You just walk. But the last two days fall somewhere in the middle. Varied terrain, all off-road, little settlements, varied crops, steady ascents where you just get in your stride, feel the breeze, and ooze with gratitude for being alive. Though there aren’t many flowers, there are a million shades of green—grapevines, almond trees, olive trees, wheat, scrub oak, some corn even. And an occasional poppy field.

It was a 27 Km today and it felt good all the way. I stopped for a long rest after the ascent. Though my body was delighted to have the pack removed, I had had none of the lower back pain from the days before. I’m sure all the stretching has had something to do with it, but more importantly I reread the message from @El Cascayal about how to pack a pack to eliminate back strain. Thank you Aymarah..Several major modifications seemed to have worked a charm.

I’m in a newly renovated Casa Rural. It’s beautiful 35€ the night. In fact, only one other person has slept in the house. It’s been redone by a local family that has decided to renovate several places here and has done so with great attention to historical details. After a lunch in the cousins’ restaurant, I walked out to the old flour factory where the family is restoring the building and the mill itself. Clearly labors of love.Read more