To El Coronil (31 km, 440 m)

Great day! The first half, to the town of Montellano, was all track, through ag lands with people out and about, always happy to stop and chat. Olive groves, sunflower fields just sprouting, and some green fields of grain along with some that were ready to harvest. And the wildflowers, oh the wildflowers! There was a small castle way up on a hill, but I wasn’t even tempted to climb up! And several Moorish atalayas (watch towers) in sight in several directions.

In Montellano, I got a stamp in the town hall, with a nice chat about the Via Serrana with the two functionaries. The last 12 km into El Coronil were also very nice, except for the 4 km on the side of a fairly busy road with a shoulder that was overgrown with wildflowers.

There was a “water feature” on this stage, which meant getting over to the side of the running current, finding some branches to cross the stream, and then walking in water up to my knees and crawling through an opening of about 2 feet between branches. This meant taking off my backpack and carefully transporting things from side to side. I know this is a terrible description, but believe me, it was a big challenge, and I was happy to make it with just my feet and legs wet. But the reward soon after was a 13 century Moorish castle that was really impressive.

As I arrived in Montellano, I saw the turn-off for the consulta médica and headed in. I was very sure I had an infection, and even though I know exactly how to treat it, Spain has really clamped down on its pharmacists. No prescription, no nothing. Not at all like the old days.

But this visit was quick and painless. I entered an empty office, with one doctor and two nurses, one assistant, and me. They asked for my health care card, but when I said I was from the US, they shrugged and gave me the cup. No more than 5 minutes later I was out of there with a prescription and a second prescription in case I still had symptoms a few days later. My Belgian friend Sabine was exactly right – Monurol was the medicine of choice. They had no way to charge me for the visit— this is a regional health care center, open 24 hours a day, with no billing office, no cash register, and no insurance forms to fill out. For someone from the US, it was mind-blowing.

Clare found a great restaurant and we had an excellent menú del día, nothing like yesterday’s glop. Casa Miguel, in case you are ever in El Coronil.

Two days to Sevilla! I can’t believe it.Read more