To Coripe (26.5 km and 470 m)

It’s hard to believe we climbed 470 m when our destination is at a lower elevation than our starting point, but since it was almost entirely on a Via Verde (rails to trails), the grade was very gentle and continuously up and down. There were about 20 tunnels to walk through—some lit better than others and done with no lights. Our little challenge for the day.

We left our little pension at about 7:30 and by 2 we were at our Casa Rural in Coripe. It’s hard to imagine a stage more different than yesterday’s. This was a stage with no variation in scenery, not much to see along the way. It was all scrub on high undulating hills, but there was an impressive outcropping or two interspersed. And they came with some big raptors. But basically, it was one of those days when the camino goes inward, me and my thoughts.

We walked into the small town of Coripe just as they were finishing their celebration of 130 years as a municipality. It’s a small place with a small store (closed on Sunday) and a few bars. We found one that had some food, and had an iceberg lettuce salad. Then came a “campero” — a plate of eggs, french fries, jamón serrano, shrimp and who knows what else mixed up. I won’t say it was gross, because I ate a lot of it, but I will say that yesterday’s meal bears no resemblance to this. It’s all part of the total package.

Having a washing machine is always a real treat, even though the Spanish lavadoras are incomprehensible to me. The cycle took more than 3 hours, so we now have no sun and little daylight left to dry our clothes!Read more