Up to Beriáin

I don’t know whatever made me think I could pop up to Beriáin, descend, and continue on another 10 km on the Camino. I am getting a very good education on the realities of hiking in the mountains. Looking at total elevation and total distance just doesn’t give the complete picture. Having to watch where you place each foot very carefully, navigating all the rocks, trying not to slip— all of this adds a lot of difficulty, especially for this old body.

I am so glad to have gotten a lot of very good help from a Basque forum member, who suggested routes, pointed out my unrealistic plans, and gave me great insights into these mountains.

Today, my only plan was to walk the 9 km trail from Unanua up to Beriáin and back down, and then continue the 4 kms back to my hotel in Arbizu. That was plenty!

I got a cab from Arbizu to Unanua to save the first 4 kms of road walking. So by 7, I was starting the ascent. The views of the towns nestled in the valley were just beautiful. It was very slow going, and more than a handful of people passed me on their way up, and passed me on their way down before I had even made it to the top. One guy told me he walks up and down every day. Last year he missed one day, and so on New Year’s Eve he walked up and down twice!

There were several profs with a group of teens who were in a post-secondary “formación profesional” course in sports— some wanted to be mountain guides, one a swimming coach. I got a lot of encouragement from them, since I was about the same age as their grandparents. They told me many times there was no way they would be up here. I have now been called “atrevida” “valiente,” and “maja” by these young-uns.

When I got to the top, I was all alone at the ermita. Lots of vultures circling overhead, and the views were as good as they get.

I picked my way down stone by stone, it took almost 3 hours. I kept thinking that it would be very embarrassing for this group of young people to come across me lying injured on the path after telling me how great I was, so I went even more deliberately than usual.

I’ve only got a few more days left in the mountains, so I’m going to have to spend some time figuring out where else I will be able to walk. There are many options!Read more