Trespaderne to Valdenoceda

My tracks:

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/trespader…

Perfect day in all ways! Any day that starts out with crossing a long medieval bridge, a visit to a sixth century hermitage in the rocks, and then proceeds to climb up and up on a forest trail whose grade is gentle is destined to be a great day.

I left a little before eight and it was still dark. Having a 30 km day with 750 m elevation, I knew that would mean a late arrival. But I didn’t set the alarm last night and felt great when I woke up at a little after seven. The sun doesn’t rise till 8 AM anyway!

The walk is superb- the big ascent and descent have occasional lookout spots for oohing and aahing over the many different rock formations. The gorges are dramatic— sometimes the rock is colorful, sometimes it’s just gray, but always they are beautiful. The landscape changed on the other side of this monte, with lots of small villages and cultivated fields. I didn’t pass many other people, but those I did inevitably said hello and started a conversation.

I knew that the camino went past San Pedro de Tejada, one of the most acclaimed Romanesque churches in the province. I also knew that not only is it usually closed, but that there is a gate all around that prevents you from a close-up look at the exterior.

A local woman and her husband who were picking walnuts off the ground told me that when she was a kid, the church was always open — until the inevitable thefts happened. She also told me to look in the fence around at the back left side and that I would find a hole that I could squeeze through. Sure enough!!! It would have been embarrassing to have been caught in the act, but there was no way I was going to pass this option up. It’s beautiful, just beautiful, and it’s hard to believe that the corbels are original. They are all in such perfect condition, even the x-rated ones. I would have loved to get inside, but being able to sit and enjoy this jewel from the outside was reward enough.

I went a couple of kilometers off-camino to get to a nice little casa rural. Unfortunately, my food planning has left a lot to be desired. Grocery store closed yesterday, no grocery store here, restaurant closed here, which left me with the option of a bocadillo at the bar. I will survive!Read more