Day in Palencia

Because yesterday was a holiday, I couldn’t get my Spanish SIM card. So that means spending another day in this nice little city.

I also needed to get fruit and water for walking, sunscreen, and stamps to send postcards home to my grandkids. All of that was easy to do on the city’s Calle Mayor.

In late morning, I took a taxi to the 7th century church in Baños de Cerrato, built in 661 by a Visigothic king. Many sources say that it is the oldest church in Spain. King Recesvinto had just defeated the vascones, a fierce Iberian tribe (from whom the Basques descended), but was suffering from a kidney ailment. The curative waters in Baños de Cerrato took care of the problem, and he erected the church in gratitude. That’s one story, anyway.

I was not expecting it to be so beautiful inside. The Roman columns with Visigothic capitals, with the cimacios above to equalize the height for the horseshoe arches on top, and oh those horseshoe arches. It was one of the most beautiful interiors I’ve ever seen in such an ancient church. The guide was a medieval historian, and since I was the only one there, I got a private tour. Plus, lots of quiet time just sitting and contemplating. It was really something.

I am very glad that I made a reservation for this afternoon’s lunch from home. Everything is overbooked on this holiday weekend – yesterday was May 1, and tomorrow is Mother’s Day. I did a bit of research and found San Remo— out of the center so I would walk around a new part of town. Totally unassuming, but wow! I think this is the best sea bass I’ve ever had. And very glad to have a 45 minute walk back to my hotel, it was overindulgence.

The weather forecast is not great, very changeable. But I am very ready for this Camino to begin, rain or no rain!Read more