Rain, hail, and thunderstorms

Cervera de Pisuerga to San Salvador de Cantamuda (with the Venganza del Conde loop trail)

26 km, 850 m

I left Cervera around 7, with a weather forecast that said dry till noon. HA!!! About a half hour in, the rain started. But once you’re wet, you’re not going to get any wetter, so I rolled along, past the Embalse, up and down some hills. As I was walking into San Salvador De Cantamuda, at about 11:30, the rain stopped. Perfect for a good visit at the beautiful Romanesque church.

My plan had been to walk into this town, check into my Hostal, leave my pack, and take an 8 km walk on a well-known local trail, the revenge of the count! It goes up to the ruins of a castle where the count had expelled his wife because of his false accusation of infidelity. He sent her off on a lame and blind burro, accompanied by a mute servant. Against all odds, they made it to the next town. Miraculously, the servant recovered her ability to talk, and told everyone about the evil husband. In thanks, Elvira (the wife) had the church built. Its name Cantamuda refers to the servant girl (the mute sings!).

Since my hostal did not open until two, I decided to take my chances with the weather and head up on the trail with my pack. I was extremely fortunate, not a drop fell till I was a few minutes out of town. Even in bad weather, the views are extraordinary.

When I got back to town, my Hostal had opened. I am the first peregrina of the year. And then, the thunderstorm started. It was ferocious and lasted a good 90 minutes. Now it’s just raining steadily. I am so glad to be warm and dry. My room has a warm radiator, which will be turned off at around seven tonight. But by then my shoes will have dried!

My lunch was nothing fancy-garbanzos, followed by a Palencia version of cachopo. Dessert was the best— locally made sheep milk yoghurt with local honey.

Very short stage tomorrow, so I can try to outwit the storms. They tell me the forecast is somewhat better.

My tracks.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cervera-d…Read more