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camino 2017
  • Laurie Reynolds
  • Laurie Reynolds

camino 2017

Una aventura de 49 días de Laurie Leer más
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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Villaviciosa

    7 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Ok this was another very long day, almost 40. But it was beautiful and included a surprise visit inside another pre-Romanesque church.

    I left Ribadesella around 7 and a few hours later passed the donativo albergue in Vega. What a great spot, with a pretty beach down the road. It looked like a great place to stay, but I had only been walking for a couple of hours. Bad timing on my part. But I did have the good luck of meeting Sam and Barbara, a mother son pair from Austin, and we wound up walking together all day.

    No off-camino coastal alternatives today, but the camino took you along the coast a fair amount. More gorgeous sea views. In the town of Isla we turned inland, and after Colunga there were st least 10-12 up and down kms through the countryside. At some points there were mountains on your left and ocean on your right.

    After taking a boots off rest after Colunga and despairing of ever finding a bar to get something cold to drink, we walked into Priesca. In this tiny little hamlet, there was a stunning new albergue La Rectoral right across the way from the 10C pre-Romanesque church. The albergue had a soda machine and the church windows were making us wish we could get inside. But the Spanish woman nearby told us to go ask somewhere else for the keys. I think she heard Sam and me talking about the beautiful windows and how much we wished we could see the interior, and suddenly she found that she had a set of keys. Wow is all I can say. It was great.

    From there the 10 or so km to Villaviciosa were pretty much a slog, but we have made it, have walked around town and had dinner, and are headed to bed. I am sorry to say that Sam and Barbara will be heading in a different direction tomorrow because we had a lot of fun today!    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Vega de Sariego

    8 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Ok I am a wimp. I only walked 17 or 18 km today. I was whooped from the earlier days. Danagrina, you and I walked ten more kms and wound up in that hotel where the tv was showing a program about Michael Jackson and bees.

    I left the albergue around 7 am, knowing that the church at Valdedios only opened at 11. So I took my time and was glad to see that the route had been brought off the main road. I got to the church complex-- this is a 9C church with a 13C -17C monastery --at about 10 am. So I had an hour wait before I could visit the church. As I was sitting there, boots off, three nuns walked towards me with big bags for the garbage. I was surprised, because last time I had been here there were monks. Turns out the monks have left and the nuns have replaced them. The albergue is now spotless, clean sheets, etc. Just a coincidence maybe but I suspect it has to do with the change from monks to nuns.

    After the hour tour, which was great, I left at around noon. The steep 300 m ascent just about took it out of me, and when I arrived at the albergue inVega de Sariego, I decided to stay. Tomorrow will be 26 flat asphalt kms to Oviedo but I really appreciated the early stop today. And there is a bar with a great 10€ menu. I'm sharing a room in the albergue with a few other women, so let's hope there are no more men arriving.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    ... in Oviedo

    9 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This was a much-better-than-expected walk into a big city. Knowing that it was 26 or 27 km, and wanting to spend the afternoon in Oviedo and with my dear pal Helena, I got going at 7.

    With one coffee break and going at a pretty steady pace and off and on with two French walkers, I was in the hotel before 1.

    The route has changed since I last walked it, and it is much improved. Only the last couple kms are through commercial outskirts and there is s lot of off-road walking. That's unusual for stages going into cities. All pleasant enough, though of course it doesn't hold a candle to any of that amazing sea walking I was doing just a few days ago.

    Got here to see that the top of one of my shoes is ripping open. I took it to a zapatero who told me he was pretty sure he could fix it enough to get me into Santiago. Lucky I got here today because he is closed tomorrow.

    Now I have a five day break from walking. I am going to leave a lot of my stuff here in Oviedo and will stay in the same place when I return. My pal Paco from Madrid is flying up to walk for two days with me so that will be the 15 and 16. Lots to look forward to!    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Getting ready to leave Oviedo

    10 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    How I love this beautiful city. But visiting here and living here are two different things. My camino friend Helena, who is from Lisboa, has married an Asturiano and has found it next to impossible to "break in" and be accepted. And if she can't do it, no one can! But as a city for tourism, it can't be beat. Obsessively clean public places, beautiful old core and a museum or two. The statuary in the streets is like no other city I've seen. A Botero, a Woody Allen look alike(he fell in love with Oviedo while filming Vicki Cristina Barcelona), and many others. The cathedral is going the way of many in Spain, now charging 6€ (4 for peregrinos) for entrance.

    Yesterday I noticed that the mesh on the top of my shoes was starting to rip open. But since this is Spain, where many people still repair things, no problem. The friendly zapatero down the street from my hotel came up with an ingenious solution. 3 hours and 9€ later, my boots were good to go.

    Heading to the bus station after a good cafe con leche and then onto the first flight of the day.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Oviedo memories

    10 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Walking to the bus station I went past the Woody Allen statue and remembered being here with Joe and my parents. This picture is for you dad. 😍

    And now I'm at the bus station waiting for the bus to the airport and remembered when David got off the bus from Cangas here, and we had a grand time together. Love you guys.Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Heading back to the camino

    14 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Almost there! I am in the Madrid airport and my flight back to Oviedo leaves in a few hours. I had a great meeting in NYC and am so glad I went, even though it was a pretty crazy thing to do.

    I didn't have much time to enjoy NYC but did have some good meals and saw some very close friends too. So all in all, it was a great little break.

    A good friend from Madrid will meet me in Oviedo tonight and we'll walk together for two days and then he heads back to work. Can't wait to be back on the camino.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    ... in Avilés

    15 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    My good friend Paco got to Oviedo a little before me yesterday, and we had time for a nice long walk around a beautiful park near David's old stomping grounds. Then for dinner, a plate of Asturian cheeses, YUM!

    This morning we hit the road around 7. We met a British guy walking, and after a while we realized that he thought he was on a different camino! We enjoyed walking with him to Avilés but he has now gone in search of the Camino Primitivo.

    Today's walk was quite nice. It was about 29 km with not much more than several hundred feet elevation gain. Nice countryside, very quiet roads. Even though the last 5 kms or so were along the side of a busy road, it was infinitely better than when Dana and I found ourselves on the side of a truck-filled route.

    Avilés has quite a nice historic core. I was actually surprised at all the nice squares and plazas. After another plate of Asturias cheeses, I'm now ready for bed. And very glad to be back on the camino.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds
    1

    In Muros de Nalon

    16 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    What a great day, even though too much of it was on asphalt. We have met some very nice people, Brit, Chinese, and Australian, and Paco was very sad to have to leave.

    25 km down to the beach and up to the headlands, down to the river and up into the hills, through a few towns, and there we were. A lovely Albergue, really nice.

    After washing up and changing into clean clothes (the Albergue washed our clothes for a few euros), we had a quick grilled sandwich and then hopped on the bus to go visit Cudillero, a little touristy village on the coast. So pretty, hidden in a cove, lots of climbing up and down.

    We had a great time, and then Paco had to head for the airport. He called a cab, we all piled in, and he dropped us off on his way to the airport. It was so great to see him, we had a really good time.

    So now here I sit in my Albergue in Muros de Nalon, enjoying the wonderful albergue. Tomorrow off on a short 16 km walk to Soto de Luiña maybe with a coastal detour.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Soto de Luiña

    17 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We had a very short beautiful day today. Only 16 km, but we made it a little longer by taking a detour out to the beach where we had a long cafe con leche break in a gorgeous setting.

    The rest of the day was up and down through the countryside, green and peaceful. When the first two of us arrived at our destination we had to decide whether to look for a private place or go to the "very basic" albergue (usually code for "old and dirty"). So I scoped things out and found a very nice building of tourist apartments. Two bedrooms, bath, kitchen, balcony and living room. 70€, which turns out very reasonable for four of us. A little more than the 5€ charge for the albergue, but well worth it.

    After shower and washing clothes, three of us decided to walk the couple of kms out to the beach. Another gorgeous spot. Now we will cook dinner and have a lovely sleep. Tomorrow there's a mountain alternative that we have to rest up for!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Cadavedo

    18 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It just doesn't get any better than this. The four of us left the apt at about 7. After a km or two, the split came. Ann opted for the lower route, and the rest of us decided to try the mountain route. About 3000 ft total elevation gain, they told us, so not a trivial undertaking.

    It was so well worth it I can't even begin to explain. What an amazing walk. The hospitalero in Soto de Luina had been kind of discouraging about this alternative, but it is well marked, never extremely steep (except for one short rocky descent) and has unmatched views over the coast.

    We are once again in an apartment for four and all of us are quire happy. Tomorrow onward    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Otur

    20 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Good day, with a stop at 9 for coffee, and then a few hours to enjoy the former fishing village, current tourist town of Luarca.

    I am really impressed at how much of the camino has been moved off road. We had very little pavement and even though we didn't spend much time on the coast, there were lots of forest paths with occasional glimpses of ocean.

    A Brit, Chinese, Australian and American walk into a bar... surely there is a good joke here. I first met Alan as Paco and I were leaving Oviedo to return to the Norte. About an hour in, we kept catching glimpses of a guy a bit ahead of us and when we got close enough to talk, learned he thought he was on a different Camino. When we got to Avilés, we pointed him to the bus station and thought that was goodbye. Next day at our coffee break, who do we see but Alan!

    Percy is Chinese, a young guy studying Spanish in Barcelona. His English and Spanish are flawless. Though I've had many Chinese students, I've never felt comfortable asking them too many questions, but Percy welcomes them. We are all learning a lot about China. Ann, a retired school administrator, is about 7 years my senior. She is kind and calm. Her asthma keeps her a bit behind but she wants to walk alone anyway so we all just meet up at the end. There you have it, our little band of four.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds
    1

    Very hot in La Caridad

    20 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This was a hot 25 km walk (32 C= high 80s F, I think). We left a little later than usual as well, 7:30, which took its toll later in the day. First a coffee stop at about 8:30, then a boots-off bench rest stop in the small city Navia, and then a sit in the shade and go buy 3 liters of Aquarius at a gas station shorter break as we geared up for the last little bit.

    This morning as we were leaving, Ann decided it would be prudent for her to take a bus rather than walk. That nagging feeling when you want to walk but know that you should not avoid the shooting pain. We thought we might not see her again. About an hour later we got a phone call from her, saying she had decided to jump ahead to our destination and had reserved us a place in the nice private albergue.

    She was there when we got here, having already made great progress on our dinner. Angel Ann! Hopefully tomorrow her foot will be better.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Have arrived in Galicia

    21 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We took a long detour today, and we walked to at least five or six amazingly beautiful beaches. This is just a gorgeous part of the country. We ran into several other pilgrims, a couple of young Americans who had just graduated from college, a Spaniard trying to find her way, and then a smattering of French and German couples.

    Each beach was more beautiful than the next, and we had a hard time picking out our favorite. At one of them, we met a very nice couple from the area. They insisted on sharing their food with us, and wanted to know all about the Camino. It was a really nice day. The entrance into town is not so nice, because it consists of walking over a bridge that is about a mile long. But here we are, and no surprise, the weather has changed. Rain is in the forecast, but we have had such a large number of beautiful walking days, that it would be really selfish to complain about a little rain now.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Afternoon trip to Playa Catedrales

    22 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    One of Galicia' most visited beaches, this spot is about 18 km from Ribadeo. A coastal walking path is available, but a group of 8 of us opted for the cab option. At 15€ each way, and four in a cab, it's a very quick and affordable way to get there.

    We had found tide information on line and we're lucky that the next low tide was at 9 pm. It's very important to go at low tide. Since sunset is at 10:15, we had plenty of daylight. We got there around 8 and quickly understood why this place is so popular. In summer they limit access with a ticket system. We read that the limit on the beach at any one time in high season is 2,000. Before the tickets, the crowds reached an unimaginable 10,000! For our visit, there were people there, but nothing close to a crowd. It was a pretty great way to end the day.

    One of our little band of four is hoping that another day on the bus will be good for her feet and that she will be walking again soon. We are headed for a town about 28 km and one killer hill away.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Lourenza

    22 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This was a 28 km walk with two fairly steep ascents. We have left the ocean behind and are now walking in Galician countryside--very green, lots of little hamlets with stone buildings, cows and pigs everywhere.

    We left at 7 from our pension. I had had a coffee with my electric coil but the two guys had not. About 9 km into the walk we ran into two guys with a donkey. They were going to put in bean poles for their bean crop. Here's an interesting tidbit--a high percentage of these famous Asturian beans,fabas, are actually grown in Galicia. The guys told us that they take care of the crops, and at harvest the Asturian bean buyers come over to Galicia to buy their beans. Under EU regulations, all that the label has to show is where the product was bagged, Not where they were grown. So most "Asturian beans" are actually from Galicia.

    After our bean chat, these two told us there was a bar 400m off the camino near where we were standing, but nothing on camino for the next 15 km. So we reluctantly took this detour for a coffee and a bocadillo.

    There were quite a few people on the camino today. A bus load of Austrians who were picked up by a luxury bus, in addition to the smattering of people we've seen this past week.

    All day it was misty and foggy but no rain. We are in the municipal albergue in a room with 10 beds. It's an ear plug night.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Changing it up in Mondoñedo

    23 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Had a terrible sleep last night. Lights and noise in the albergue till after 11, lights and noise starting at 5, and lots of snoring in a stinky room in between.

    I had planned to walk 32 km with two of my little group today but last night I got an email from a Spanish friend who has an albergue (two actually) on the Camino Primitivo. He has most of the day off, lives about 80 km away from here, and has never visited this very pretty little city (with its own cathedral to boot). When I also realized that I was getting a tickle in my throat, it just made sense to get a pension here in Mondoñedo. So after a 9 km walk, a cafe con leche with my buddies, we said goodbye. We all know that's just the way the camino goes, but we were a great little group.

    This feels like a day off, which is not a bad idea for me. And this town is very pretty!!!!

    There is some confusion about whether the new "camino oficial," which is 6 km shorter (not trivial) and up in the monte is a good idea or not. We got a lot of hype from the hospitalera last night, saying it was treacherous and should be avoided at all costs. Lucky me -- I will get a first hand report from my buddies who went ahead. I'm betting it's perfectly fine, but I will take their advice if they say it was rough.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In albergue heaven

    24 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Leaving Mondoñedo, I couldn't find the new official route-- a forest track that is 6 km shorter than the "complementary" route. So I wound up walking the first 18 km almost entirely on asphalt. The views were very nice, the temperature cool, not too much sun, so I really can't complain.

    Until recently I wouldn't have had much of an answer to the question--what is your favorite tree? Since walking in the Bierzo in late spring a few years ago, I have fallen in love with chestnuts. And on today's walk there were many--not as ancient as the ones in the Bierzo where new trees grew out of enormous dead trunks, but beautiful. And when they are in bloom with those long cream colored buds, the smell is sweet and pungent. It was great.

    In the first town of Abadin there is a private albergue that gets good reviews, but I had been alerted to a new Albergue in a restored old stone home about 6 km further on. I think this is probably the nicest Albergue I have ever stayed in, though Casa Carmina last week comes close.

    The owners bought this several hundred year old home four years ago, gutted it, and renovated it all themselves with the help of friends. They've left as much of the original as possible, including the stone oven, some beams, slate, some huge granite vats, etc. The showers are really hot and the water pressure very high- no lukewarm drip on a dirty tile floor today! It is just beautiful, in the middle of nowhere with lots of open yard and lots of shade with reclining chairs.

    Fingers crossed that the owners are successful with their labor of love, O Xistral. I will sing their praises at every opportunity!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    Baamonde

    25 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today has been one of those low days. First the three German boys in my lovely albergue room got up at 5. I couldn't go back to sleep so at 5:45 I got up, made some coffee and was walking by 6:45. It was actually not a bad start time since I had 35 km to go today. Not much elevation, so I thought I'd be fine. But by the time I got here, I was dragging.

    Leaving the lovely Albergue, I turned the corner to find that what had clearly once been a narrow grassy green tunnel had been bulldozed and filled with crushed rock. Gripe#1. Then a few hours later I arrived in Vilalba, a little less than halfway. It is an UGLY town. Gripe# 2. The guy at my coffee stop put fake crab, melted cheese, and ham in my tortilla sandwich. Gripe#3. From there, it was 18 more km with a lot of asphalt and sun, and nowhere to rest. Gripe#4. Then I told myself to stop griping and enjoy the day. And there were some gorgeous chestnut trees, one of which had a little plaque saying it was 700 years old!

    Finally, on the outskirts of town, a Spanish couple passed me and seemed pretty unfriendly. A Portuguese couple came up (you can see I am dragging if everyone is passing me) and I walked with them into the Albergue and the explosion started. The Portuguese guy took one look at the unfriendly Spanish lady and started cursing her out. There must have been a big conflict of some sort that triggered his outburst. It was a bit tense but luckily the woman checking all of us in put them at opposite ends of the Albergue.

    All in all it was not a 5***** day but that happens. I also think my body is running out of gas slowly. But after a shower and the therapeutic hand washing of clothes, all seemed much better. And imagine my delight when I learned that in the bunk next to me is my Australian friend Ann. We had split up a few days ago when she had foot problems. She is walking again and is feeling good.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In A Roxica

    26 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I don't want to alarm my family and friends (I am FINE and unharmed) but it was not a pleasant morning.

    This morning I left the Albergue around 7, about ten minutes after a single Spanish peregrina left. The camino goes along the national highway N-6 for about two km and then turns left into a wooded area where there is an old church. I was about 5 minutes before that turn-off when I saw the Spanish woman running back towards me. She was crying hysterically. A masked man had pointed a gun at her and told her to get down on the ground. She offered him all her money but he repeated the threat. She took off her mochila and threw it on the ground and took off running. She runs marathons so she knew she could outrun him, and she thought to herself-- he's not going to shoot me in the back. Luckily she was right.

    I was with her and the police for a while. The Guardia Civil is involved and she will file a denuncia. When we got back to the point where it happened, her backpack was right where she dropped it and untouched. She is lucky but I'm sure it will take a while to get over.

    I walked for the next few hours with several pilgrims who came up while we were with the police. But they stopped for the day way too early for me, so I went on by myself. I think it's like what people say about falling off a horse, you just have to get up and do it again. I did feel a little nervous but realize that's not rational. By the end of the walk I was feeling more confident and able to focus again on my aching tired feet. Though it's easy to fall into panic or fear, I keep telling myself that the rational response is that this is one of a miniscule number of bad incidents on the Camino, and that I am surely safer walking alone in Spain than I am walking alone in many places I frequent. Hopefully, I will get back into the swing of walking alone and loving it.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    A night in an ancient monastery

    27 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So today I am not feeling frightened or nervous, just kind of flat. Five us walked together (4 single women and one guy) into Sobrado dos Monxes, a town with a Cistercian monastery with 13th century origins. What's now standing is mostly from the 16th century onwards, and there is a much improved albergue. When Dana and I slept here 10 years ago, it was a hygienic disaster. Now there are decent and clean beds, clean hot showers, but tons more people than when we were here. This is good preparation for what we will find tomorrow when we get to Arzua and the Camino Frances.

    After a very nice lunch with ten other amigos, the topic turned to tomorrow's lodging. Turns out three of them had had a hard time finding a place, and the rest of us hadn't even started looking. Half an hour and many phone calls later, the rest of us finally found something. Same thing for the next day. I did have a reservation in Santiago but I had to cancel because I am a day behind. So things are unclear but I do have a bed for the next two nights!    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Arzua

    28 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well this was another uneventful day. I left the monastery at about 7:30, knowing I had only 21 km to walk and no big hills or descents. Feels kind of decadent since my earlier stages were so much longer and harder, but my body is kind of winding down and hinting that it wouldn't mind stopping.

    The day was windy and alternated between brilliant blue skies and short hard rain showers. We had the luxury and the luck of being right outside a bar for the first downpour and right next to a covered bus stop for the second. Right before we arrived in Arzua, it started again but by then we were just a hop, skip and a jump from town. The walk was pleasant enough through very typical Galician countryside--rolling hills, lots of green, very rural. Luckily there are still some parts of the walk that haven't been "improved" by the government. For some reason they pour crushed rock on lovely wooded trails and call it an improvement.

    Wow how this place has changed. When Dana and I stayed here in 2007, there was one albergue and one old hotel. Now there are st least 15 albergues and lots of pensiones, etc. Even our old charming Hotel Teodora has doubled or tripled its size.

    Culture shock is inevitable when you leave one camino with an average of 40 pilgrims per night to the camino Frances with hundreds and hundreds each day, if not thousands.

    Feeling slightly better and less discombobulated. I will get to Santiago in two days, spend Friday night there, and then walk, I think, to Muxia in 3 days. Then back to Santiago for two nights before my flight home. One thing that could disrupt that plan, however, is an ongoing sporadic bus strike. We will see.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Pedrouzo with thousands of others

    29 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    I am glad I have slowed down to walk shorter stages, because that means that I have been able to stay with my three new friends from Madrid and Ann.

    The 20 km from Arzua were not the most spectacular but most was pretty countryside. There are now thousands of pilgrims, lots of Spaniards, lots of large groups of jubilant teens. And a few old coots like us who have been slugging along for weeks.

    I have managed to stay totally dry these last few days. Since I'm walking short stages and there are so many bars on the camino Francés, I've just popped into a bar or a bus stop shelter every time the rain started to fall.

    The town of Pedrouzo where we are today has a total of 2000 beds, and not one is empty. Crazy, what will happen in high season? Tomorrow into Santiago. Can't believe it.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds
    1

    Made it to Santiago

    30 de junio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today was rainy off and on, but since the stage was so short I was able to sit out the occasional downpours in one cafe or another. So when I arrived in Santiago my feet were nice and dry. I really don't mind getting wet except for my feet. I have had a couple of days' walking this year when I really felt like I was walking on a sponge. It's not a lot of fun to take off your shoes and wring out your socks and then have to put them back on still sopping after the break. So let's just say I've been kind of a wimp these last few days.

    Ann and I both left around 7 with plans to meet at the cafe directly behind the Plaza San Lázaro. We walk at different paces on the hills, and I have learned that it is really annoying to someone slogging up a hill to know that her pal is waiting up at the top and will probably take off again as soon as the two have seen each other. So I thought I had plenty of time and wound up sitting inside during all the rain. That meant that poor Ann arrived about a half hour before me and though she's too nice to say it, she was probably a bit perturbed to have pushed on through the rain to "catch up with me."

    In any event I know we both enjoyed walking in together--with the endless stream of humanity pouring into Santiago, all strangers to us, the companionship was good.

    I have walked into Santiago many many times. Sometimes it's euphoria, sometimes flat, sometimes bummed out -- but this has to be the weirdest entrance ever. I knew the cathedral would be in scaffolding, but I wasn't prepared for the rest. As we went through the arches, the bagpipes were playing, but no sooner had we dropped our coins in appreciation than he closed up shop. Then as we entered the square, we saw lines of soldiers, and two tanks, I kid you not. Some sort of military celebration was taking place and we were just in time for the salutes, the marches, and the music. It was all very disconcerting.

    I had trouble finding a cheap room but booking.com led me out of the historic core to the "real" city. I'm in a very nice pension,28 €, about 12 minutes from the cathedral but in a very different world. I actually got a good menu del dia for 9 €, unheard of up in pilgrim-land.

    This afternoon Ann and I will go visit a German friend who lives in Santiago, and then tomorrow I'll start my last three days of walking.    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Vilaserio, two more days of walking!

    1 de julio de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Yesterday after showers and clothes wash, Ann and I met up and went to visit a German friend who has packed up and moved to Santiago. There were about 7 of us, all off of different Caminos, and all the interaction was fun.

    For some inexplicable reason, I went to get my Compostela, the cathedral-issued "certificate of completion.". I have more than a dozen, so why do I bother? Even at 7 pm and with about 12 people working, there was an hour's wait. It's just part of the ritual, I guess.

    This morning I was on my way around 7. By 10:30 I was resting with boots off in the prettiest little village on this route. At noon I was buying fruit at my favorite little fruit store on this route and at 2:30 another boots off rest with a Fanta de Limón. An hour after that, my long 35 km day was over and I was checking into a lovely new albergue in Vilaserio. Many hundreds of years old, in the family for generations, and turned into a very cozy place. The woman who checked me in told me that her 70-something year old mother is actually in charge, but she comes out to help on weekends. Before the albergue idea, she told me her mother was in bad health, declining, unsettled. The albergue, she said, has breathed new life into her, and she loves it. The leson I take from that is that a purpose in life is a good thing, no matter what your age!

    Good day walking but my body is going to be very happy to stop in two days!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie Reynoldscamino 2017Laurie Reynolds

    In Dumbria at the Zara albergue

    2 de julio de 2017, España ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Well I am really slowing down. These 32 km were much harder than I remembered them, and I arrived at the albergue at least an hour later than last time. But maybe I took longer breaks this year 😁

    There is nothing spectacular about today's walk, and some of it goes through fairly ugly hills with one half growing eucalyptus and the other half stripped of vegetation. But the camino went through some nice hamlets, where the villagers are usually eager to talk.

    As part of my camino education, today I learned that the tall green stalks with leaves sprouting out and which are cut off from the bottom up are not grelos but something called "col," which translates as "cabbage" but is just leaves with no head. Anyway I had always wondered why even the smallest gardens had hundreds of these plants. Today I learned that the tough leaves are for the animals while the tender ones go into making that delicious soup caldo gallego (very similar to Portuguese caldo verde). The woman who explained this all to me told me that after she finished feeding her pigs, she would make some and I was very welcome to stay. Unfortunately I still had 22 km to walk, so I declined. What a tempting invitation though!

    I am in the Dumbria albergue, which was built with funds from the owner of the Zara empire. It's the only albergue I've ever been in with hot water in the sink for washing clothes. The albergue itself is huge, with common areas, balconies with tables, a kitchen, but only three bedrooms, each one with 4 bunk beds. So far in my room there is a Brazilian man of Japanese descent, and a French couple. The French guy looks like he could be a snorer and so I will use my wonderful silicone earplugs.

    Tomorrow a short day to Muxia. I will meet up with a friend there. If you saw The Way and remember the final scene with all the characters standing on the amazing boulders near the ancient church, that was Muxia. I far prefer it to the touristy Finisterre, though the ritual of going up to the lighthouse for sunset is something I'll miss.

    Home on Thursday!!!!    Leer más

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