• Kyoto 🔥🔥🔥

    1.–4. aug., Japan ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We took the second of three Shinkansen trains of our trip to Kyoto for the final leg before heading back to Tokyo and the trip home. There is a reason they say “Don’t go to Kyoto in August!”, but not given the luxury of coming back in the winter, we made the best of the heat and were glad we did.

    Kyoto was much different than I remember from 31 years ago. I am not sure how much has actually changed vs. my perception from 1994, but 2025’s experience was much more modern and urban than I remembered. Perhaps it is where we stayed (a Moxy near Nijo University and Station) or the ability to travel around town easily (Google Maps, Suica card) or the fact that last time Kyoto was our first stop (jet lagged and not yet familiar with how to be in Japan), but this time it seemed much more “Boston-like” (urban, cosmopolitan). In 1994, credit cards were rarely accepted, but now they are ubiquitous, as are ATMs if you do need cash.

    We did enjoy the ancient Kyoto (Golden Temple, Fushimi Inari Torii gates, Kiyomizu-dera, etc), but we also experienced the covered shopping streets (including some thrift stores the girls loved) and bars along Kiyamachi-dori near the Kami River that runs through town. These last were the benefits of traveling with the girls who found these areas that I never would have!

    Kyoto also is embracing the old becoming new with a fun nighttime light festival at Nijo Castle and of course Nishiki Market that dates back to 1320, but whose vendors are a mix of generations-old stalls mixed with sushi sports bars and even Taco Rice balls at a place called Taco High. The super modern Takashimaya Department Store was also fun for me with the 3 block long basement with food offerings as far as the eye could see.

    I don’t normally stay at Marriott properties when traveling overseas, but the cash flow was getting tight and I had some points. It ended up being perfect to have some of the Marriott amenities while still having an exotic (if more Euro than Asian) vibe at the Moxy. Coin laundry, “Ironing Room” in each floor, a more Western breakfast, gym for Lexi, and less shoe on/off etiquette. For the type of traveling we were doing, I also loved the hooks along the wall and fabric spray to refresh and dry out sweaty clothes at the end of the day.

    If given the ability to choose your own schedule, I would heed the advice to avoid summer. It was really pretty brutal! Over 100 degrees with sticky humidity is a lot when you are doing a lot of walking! Cooling neck scarves and the ever-present personal electronic fans helped, as did frequent breaks at tea houses, food stalls, or the hotel.

    Next and final stop: return to Tokyo and then home!
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