Camino do Mar - Stage 9

What felt like a short stage this morning turned out to be a little longer than expected. Rain in the forecast held off for a bit as we left Cariño but a misty light rain started falling about 45 minutes into the walk and continued on and off most of the day.

Our first stop was a detour of about a mile to the Faro do Cabo Ortegal. This lighthouse sits atop magnificent cliffs and a commanding 270 degree view of the ocean. A small group of wild goats seem to call this place home.

Afterward, a long and mostly gradual climb back south along the peninsula, eventually climbing into the clouds, which made for challenging walking along the narrow, but infrequently traveled road. Windmills lined the crest of the ridge, coming in and out of view in the heavy fog and making an omnipresent low din like something out of a Star Wars film (per Anne).

Another detour to the Garita de Herbeira, the highest point on the peninsula at 2005’, before descending down to San Andrés de Teixido, or stop for the night. We checked in and headed out to grab a well deserved lunch and look around the tiny town that’s built mostly around the Santuario de Santo André de Teixido.

The legend of the chapel has it that San Andrés was sad because his temple had very little devotion compared to that of Santiago that was overflowing with pilgrims, so he asked the Lord for help. One day the Almighty appeared to him in the company of St. Peter and promised San Andrés that all mortals would come to his temple, and those who did not do so alive would do so after his death reincarnated as an animal. Hence, this chapel is now a popular pilgrimage (at least in Galicia).Read more