Camino Dos Faros - Stage 26

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…

It’s hard to believe after what feels like so long, but tomorrow is our last full day of walking to Fisterra, the end of the the Camino Dos Faros and our journey along the Galician coast. But of course today the trail was going to make us pay for that honor.

We started early, knowing the stage was relatively difficult with lots of elevation gain and a return to “full blooded coastal walking” per the guidebook. They were not kidding. The uphill and downhill sections followed the fall line of the mountain (that is to say, directly up and down), were mostly overgrown with vegetation, and very narrow (a little wider than a shoe). Where the trail traversed the hillside it fell away downhill making footing challenging. And of course most of the time pushing through bracken or gorse (which is prickly). The views were good when available but the seriousness of the trail prevented enjoying them.

Adding to the fun, a wrong turn heading out of Rego de Cuño required some cross country navigation to get back on track. However, based on the trail we followed we were hardly the first to make that mistake. Lots of uphill to the summit of Monte Pedrouzo, with grand views of the inside of a cloud. Then more steep downhill to Praia de Moreira before more uphill out to Cabo Touriñán.

As we got to Faro Touriñán, the sun finally burned off enough of the marine layer to give us blue skies and some great views of the lighthouse over the ocean. Interestingly, for one month each year, 22 March to 25 April, Faro Touriñán has the last sunset on mainland Europe. It was also the westernmost point on our walking trip.

Another 5km for us into Praia Nemiña, where we’re both happy to clean up and relax.Read more