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Eastern Canada
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault
  • Nathaniel Stott
  • Anne Archambault

Eastern Canada

A cross-country van odyssey to the Easternmost point on the continent もっと詳しく
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  • Eastern Canada

    Tilting

    2025年9月14日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Tilting is a small outport community that sits on the easternmost side of Fogo Island. First settled by Irish fishermen in the 1750s, Tilting evolved into an exclusively Irish and Catholic town by the 1780s.

    Tilting’s name is believed to come from “tilts,” the temporary shelters used by seasonal fishermen before permanent homes were built. Over time, the town became a hub of the migratory cod fishery, with traditional fishing stages, saltbox houses, and stone gardens that still dot the landscape today.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    The Great Auk

    2025年9月14日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The Great Auk once ruled the Atlantic, Now extinct, the great auk once ranged from the shores of Northern Europe, Iceland, Greenland, Canada, and down the eastern seaboard of the United States. The great auk was a marvel of evolution; a flightless seabird built for the ocean, not the sky. Standing nearly 3 feet tall with a sleek black back and white belly, it resembled a penguin but belonged to a different lineage entirely. Its powerful wings, though useless for flight, made it a swift underwater hunter, feasting on fish and crustaceans with ease.

    Great Auks nested in dense colonies on remote, rocky islands from Canada to Iceland. Their eggs, large and speckled, were laid directly on bare stone, making them vulnerable to human exploitation. By the 16th century, European sailors and settlers began harvesting the birds for meat, oil, and feathers. Their inability to fly made them tragically easy targets.

    The last confirmed pair was killed in 1844 on Eldey Island, Iceland—one strangled for a museum specimen, the other crushed while incubating its egg.

    From Joe Batt’s Arm you can walk to a bronze statue of a Great Auk commemorating this great bird. This bronze auk is facing another bronze auk located in Iceland, both looking at each other.

    Interestingly, we talked to the man who installed the bronze auk at the grocery store! He saw our Washington license plates and chatted us up because his sister lives in Seattle.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Twillingate

    2025年9月15日, カナダ ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Twillingate’s story stretches back over 3,500 years, beginning with the Maritime Archaic people who left behind tools and artifacts in Back Harbour. Later, the Dorset Inuit and Beothuk peoples inhabited the area until European settlers arrived in the 17th century.

    The town’s name likely derives from “Toulinguet,” a French term for a group of islands off Brest, France, which resemble Twillingate from the sea. English settlers, many from Dorset and Devon, established fishing outposts here by the mid-1700s, drawn by the rich cod stocks and sheltered harbors. Twillingate soon became one of Newfoundland’s busiest ports, with schooners arriving from around the world.

    Today, Twillingate is known as the “Iceberg Capital of the World,” offering incredible views of towering ice giants each spring. It’s also a hub for whale watching, hiking, and music.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Twillingate - Music and a Screech In

    2025年9月15日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I’d been wanting to see some live music for a while and Twillingate delivered. Two nights, two shows.

    First night was Mike Soixante at the Captain’s Pub playing Irish inspired tunes of his own with some Newfoundland classics. That was followed by a screech in, a process that involves saying you’re a screecher, kissing a cod, and then drinking a shot of screech to become an honorary Newfoundlander.

    Part of the fun was trying to understand it all because Newfoundlanders have a fun accent. If you can’t understand the words, it goes “Is ye a screecher” to which the screecher says “indeed I is, me old cock.” Cock in this case refers to a rooster in case you were wondering.

    The second night was a dinner theater variety show playing more Newfoundland music interspersed with skits. I enjoyed the music, but the skits and scene changes were tedious.

    All up, two great nights of music in Twillingate.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Tablelands - Gros Morne

    2025年9月18日, カナダ ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    We’d wanted to hike Tablelands the first time we were in Gros Morne but the weather didn’t cooperate. So we came back for an afternoon hike and had a glorious, if windy, hike. Uniquely, the Tablelands offers a rare chance to walk on the Earth’s mantle that we didn’t want to miss!

    The Tablelands are composed of peridotite, a rock typically found deep beneath the Earth’s crust in the mantle. Around 500 million years ago, during the collision of ancient continents, a slice of the mantle was thrust upward in a process called obduction. This geological upheaval exposed mantle rock at the surface—a phenomenon so rare it’s found in only a handful of places worldwide.

    Unlike the surrounding green hills, the Tablelands are stark and treeless. That’s because peridotite is rich in heavy metals like nickel and chromium but poor in nutrients essential for plant life. Its high iron content also gives the rock its distinctive ochre hue, as it oxidizes (rusts) in the open air.

    We hiked up the valley and I continued on a loop hike up to the upper plateau, also taking the opportunity to tag the summit. It wasn’t easy, it required a relatively rocky scramble, lots of rock hopping and route finding, battling 40mph wind gusts, and about an hour of navigating through peat bogs. But I was rewarded with caribou and incredible views in a truly unique landscape!    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Cape Anguille & Codroy

    2025年9月20日, カナダ ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    At Newfoundland’s westernmost tip stands the Cape Anguille Lighthouse. We visited on a blustery day with intermittent showers, creating a moody and windswept feel that, I’m sure, is normal for the people who live here.

    The current octagonal concrete lighthouse tower, built in the late 1950s, is a minimalist mid-century design. It was erected as part of Canada’s post-Confederation modernization of maritime navigation, safeguarding international shipping routes and local fishing vessels.

    Nearby is the town of Codroy and the Holy Trinity Anglican Church. The original Anglican Church was destroyed in a windstorm in 1912. A year later, the new church was under construction. This church in the simplified gothic revival style (and improved bracing for wind) stands witness in front of a cemetery, looking out across the town, harbor and ocean.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Cape Roy Lighthouse

    2025年9月21日, カナダ ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Cape Ray is located at the very southwestern tip of the island of Newfoundland. Cape Ray also forms the boundary of what was once the French Shore.

    The name Cape Ray is derived from the Breton term "rasum" which means "to shave." It is said that ships would shave past the Cape in order to get free winds. The British-French treaty of 1904 gave the French shore lighthouses to Canada.

    Cape Ray is situated at one of the most important geoloyical sites in the province. Three geological zones and their fault lines pass either under Cape Ray or close by. They are the Humber Zone, the Gander Zone and the Dunnage Zone.

    On July 13, 1871 the Cape Ray lighthouse was lit for the first time. It was a white hexagonal wooden tower with a red circular metal lantern.The light was a revolving cataptric lens that contained twelve kerosene lamps with twenty-inch reflectors. It was built on the west side of the Cape, 198 meters from shore. The light was a white light and was visible for seventeen miles.

    In 1885 the lighthouse was struck by lightening and burnt to the ground. Four months later another wooden lighthouse was constructed. In 1958, this one was also destroyed by fire. The present day concrete tower was built in 1959 and an electric beacon (1000W) was installed for the light. The Cape Ray lighthouse was automated in 1991.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Rose Blanche Lighthouse

    2025年9月21日, カナダ ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Rose Blanche is literally at the end of the road. It’s about as far east as you can drive along the southern coast from Port aux Basque. To get further east requires a person ferry or a lot of driving!

    What this coast lacks in roads is made up for in splendid scenery reminiscent of the south coast of Labrador around Blanc-Sablon; lots of lakes, rocky and rugged coastlines, and a distinctly tundra like flora.

    The lighthouse itself is also a beautiful piece of history. Built in 1873 from locally quarried granite, this stout structure was born from the pleas of a fishing community seeking safer passage through the fog-laced waters of the North Atlantic.

    The lighthouse’s design was guided by the renowned Scottish engineers David and Thomas Stevenson, relatives of famed author Robert Louis Stevenson. Their fourth-order dioptric lens cast a steady white light from a height of 95 feet above sea level, visible for up to 13 miles in clear weather. Keeper John A. Roberts lit the lamp for the first time on January 1, 1874.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Nova Scotia Ferry

    2025年9月22日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We woke up early to get a shower at the rec center before hopping in line to board the ferry.

    Our boat, the “Blue Puttees” had arrived a couple hours earlier. The vessel is named after a legendary army unit from Newfoundland that fought with distinction in World War I. They were so named for their distinctive blue leggings.

    We made lattes in the van and were soon on our way. I think it’s safe to say that this is the largest and longest ferry either of us has been on. Fortunately, the sky is clear and the winds calm so the crossing should be trouble free.

    Next stop, North Sydney in Nova Scotia!    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada
    1

    Table Doucet

    2025年9月23日, カナダ ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today is Anne’s birthday so we’re having a nice dinner. Fortunately, we found a small restaurant with a multi-course tasting menu. Table Doucet is just starting out, having only opened this summer. And this location is their “test lab,” where they’re working on their menu and supply chain while their main property is being developed. It’s a small but intimate space, set up family style. And in the night we were there there were only six people total, us and a family of four.

    The menu was excellent! I feel like it’s been a long time since I’ve been blown away by food and Andrew and Chef Cameron blew us away with dishes that were locally sourced and leaned heavily into pickling and seaweed. Their mini sourdough bread was incredible too!

    Happy Birthday Anne! 🎉🥂🎂    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Cape Breton Highlands

    2025年9月24日, カナダ ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    A drove around Cape Breton Island and a hike along the Skyline trail. The Cabot Trail (the road around the perimeter of the island) is supposedly one of the top drives in the world, and it certainly has some good views, but along most of the route it lacks the dramatic coastal scenery we’ve become accustomed to in Newfoundland.

    Interestingly, there Highlands are part of the Appalachian mountain chain. This elevated plateau features rolling hills, deep valleys, and steep river canyons. Its climate and elevation create diverse ecosystems—from arctic tundra-like conditions at high altitudes to lush deciduous forests in lower valleys.

    In 1936, the Canadian government established Cape Breton Highlands National Park, protecting 950 km² of this dramatic landscape.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Providence, Rhode Island

    2025年9月27日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Rhode Island is the last state in New England that I hadn’t visited. When we looked at the routes back home, a stop in Providence only added about an hour to our travel time so we took the short detour.

    They were planning Waterfire while we were there, a festival where they light up the river with fires and have exhibits, bands, and street food. Sadly we couldn’t stay for that but it was cool to see the buzz downtown.    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Cleveland

    2025年9月29日, アメリカ ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A morning stroll around Cleveland. Neither of us have been to Cleveland (well, I have but only briefly) so we took a morning to check it out!

    First stop was the West Side Market for dinner suppliers. They had some awesome hummus, olives, and shawarma sausages for dinner. Next was coffee and then a walk along the Towpath trail around the Irishtown bend.

    We ended the visit with a lunch stop at Slyman’s for pastrami on rye. The photo doesn’t do the sandwich justice, that’s about two pounds of pastrami packed into that bread!    もっと詳しく

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  • Eastern Canada

    Lattes on the Road

    2025年9月30日, アメリカ ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    During the pandemic we decided to get an espresso machine. It allowed us to get reliable good coffee at home while we were distancing and avoiding eating in public places.

    Since then, we decided that we needed to take our coffee making on the road. It turns out that it’s really hard to get a good coffee in most places and it’s simply not worth spending $10 for two morning coffees that taste terrible.

    So now we have a little morning routine of making coffee that helps us wake up and start the day.    もっと詳しく

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