Days 3 and 4: Gorges du Todra

I stay in Ouarzazate only long enough for the midday bus north-east to the town of Tinerhir. The journey is run by the national CTM company and like many Moroccan roads, Route 10 is in excellent condition. With the High Atlas for company on the left, it's a comfortable 3 1/2 hour journey including a half-hour lunch break, for the 160 km. (100 miles).

Tinerhir is a market town (a tautology because all Moroccan town have markets, weekly or daily) of about 40,000 people. From there, it's a scenic shared taxi run alongside the river Todra to where I'm going to be staying. And this is a treat; the driver drops me off at a lay-by and I negotiate the wobbly footbridge across the river to the Kasbah Taborihte. Although modernised and extended, it's an impressive building in traditional kasbah style replete with patterned decorations, turrets and crenellations. It's typical of the fortified residences built by the local landowners and warlords up to the French Colonial period. As a concession to the 21st century, it boasts a swimming pool but at an altitude of around 1,500 metres the weather isn't really warm enough for a dip. It's a wonderful peaceful setting however in a lush palm grove.

The next day I walk the 3 km. (2 miles) up the road through some tranquil village life to the gorge itself. As the road crosses the river, the hills suddenly close in, leaving a crevice only just wide enough for the road. The sun is shining brightly but in here it hits the ground about as often as in the canyons of Wall Street. And the walls of the gorge reach 150 m. (500 ft.), making them a paradise for rock climbers.

Since there are more villages up the valley, the road continues and is still paved. The valley widens out to reveal impressive rocky desert scenery. It's fun to watch the sunlight change direction during the day and I enjoy photographing the date palms in shadow in front of a brilliantly lit rock face. The quality of the light changes during the day as well, becoming more mellow and orange later on. I have lunch of Omelette Berbere at a local hotel and have a late afternoon return to the gorge, before the walk back to the Taborihte. It's been a satisfying day.

Back at base, an couple tell me of the sand dunes around Merzouga. It sounds as if the dunes have become too famous for their own good and I am happy to stick to the rocky desert. Somebody in the corner is rambling on about their, like, Instagram feed; I want an early start tomorrow so make my excuses.Read more