Days 27 & 28: Tlaxcala

It's a shame to be leaving Oaxaca but I hope to return one day. The road to Puebla passes through some arid landscapes, the hillsides cloaked with huge cacti. When I did this route many years ago, it was by train and I could enjoy the scenery at leisure due to a derailment and it took several hours to get the train moving again. The trains have been run down all over the country and are used only for freight; what a contrast to many Asian countries where the lines are flourishing.

At Puebla there is a change and a shorter run to Tlaxcala. Less well known than Puebla or Oaxaca, it's a city of about 100,000. The first picture shows a detail at the charming guest house where I'm staying but Tlaxcala is also known for its Colonial monuments. It's a steep 20 minute walk up to the Basilica of Ocotlan; the street is lined with ceramic tiles depicting Biblical scenes so it feels like a pilgrimage. This is one of the finest churches in all Mexico; I haven't included photos of the church itself because it's covered with scaffolding but these images show the unusual brickwork and extravagant art work inside.

Another reason for my visiting Tlaxcala is its Carnival, one of the closest to Mexico City where I must be in a couple of days. There are dancing displays in the spacious main plaza both afternoons I am there, plus a parade with a multitude of floats. It's also an opportunity for protesters, in this case university students and teachers, to voice their opinions on the local government. Rain eventually stops play but this being Shrove Tuesday, there will probably be some sore heads tomorrow. As the Seekers once sang, the carnival is over.Read more