Days 25 & 26: Cuilapan and Tlacolula

Oaxaca lies in such a fascinating part of the country that one could spend the best part of two weeks doing just day excursions. Features of New World architecture are "capillas abiertas" which besides ordinary churches, are roofless extensions built hurriedly in the 16th and 17th centuries for the mass conversions of indigenous people. Sadly the Spanish conquest caused the death of millions from European diseases so these monuments soon became redundant, but they remain as romantic ruins resembling ancient abbeys from the Old World. One of these is at Cuilapan, an easy 20-minute bus ride from Oaxaca. I watch a marching band leaving the main church, commemorating the life of a friend who died 10 years ago.

The state of Oaxaca is not shy either when it comes to street markets and quite apart from the cavernous market in the state capital, there is at least one for every day of the week. They have specialities such as pottery in one, cheese in another; the mainly indigenous population dress up in traditional costumes. Sunday is the turn for another "Tlackers", Tlacolula, about 45 minutes south-east of Oaxaca. Tens of thousands of people gather to browse among the grocery stalls; there are also rugs, crafts and ceramics. The 16th century church has some of the finest gold-leaf covered carvings to be found anywhere.Les mer