Going west in Portugal

For the final exodus in 2023 I'm back on the Iberian Peninsula. Just me and my camera this time, for 7 days. The word "Algarve" comes from the Arabic for "west", which it was in the later years of Moorish occupation. Faro, the capital, tends to be overlooked in favour of the famous beaches (rather like Malaga in Spain) but it's an attractive, historic city. And lucky perhaps, as the stork's nest on the church opposite my hotel shows.

Not many buildings survived the disastrous earthquake of 1755 but gothic's loss is baroque's gain. The church of Carmo, a short distance from the hotel, stands out among the mundane office blocks. There are also some outrageous examples from around 1900 of Portugal's art nouveau, plus street art that would put Banksy to shame.

The Algarve is a gastronomist's delight. Just a stone's throw away is a tiny cafe called Chelsea. Don't mention the football---they were beaten twice in the week that I was away---but the cafe serves up some outrageously good pastries. The croissants are double the size of those you get here, covered in chocolate vermicelli and oozing with a gooey chocolate sauce. You ought to go on a 5-mile run after that!

As it happens I don't, but enjoy another Portuguese institution---covered markets. The one at Faro is on 3 floors and most of the products here are naughty but nice as well. Finally I round off the day with a sunset view of the seashore and the airport in the distance.Read more