Elephant city

Sri Lanka is well known for its wild elephants and while I don't visit any of the national parks, models of them are much in evidence. A one-hour tuktuk ride takes me to Galle, the country's southern city justifiably popular with tourists. The old part of the city, the Fort, is surrounded by ramparts built by the Dutch when they took over the island in the 17th century. One of its largest churches is still Dutch Reformed, but Buddhists and Muslims seem to be at peace together. I'm staying at a charming guest house in the Fort, where insect life is thwarted by repellent and a mosquito net. The only sour note is some whining singer from a nearby restaurant putting to death some Cariole King songs. Less than 2 weeks ago I heard the blues singer and harmonica player Errol Linton in a south London pub. Could we hear some of him please?

As always, the street life is absorbing. A fashion shoot is under way outside one of the historic buildings; the early morning swish-swish of brooms beats hands-down the din of leaf-blowers you get in Europe, while the dustbin men have their special mode of transport. And markets never fail to be a source of activity and colour.

Leaving Galle, as I eventually have to do, does not involve the train because unreserved seating is the only type available and even that is possible only an hour before departure. Avoiding a possible rugby scrum around the ticket office, I opt for the bus instead.Read more