Euro Beer & Magnet Tour

marzo - maggio 2023
  • Mike Walters
A bit of a jaunt around Europe, to see some interesting spots and share beers with a few pals….plus collect a few fridge magnets along the way 💪 Leggi altro
  • Mike Walters

Elenco dei paesi

  • Inghilterra Inghilterra
  • Olanda Olanda
  • Slovacchia Slovacchia
  • Polonia Polonia
  • Germania Germania
  • Repubblica Ceca Repubblica Ceca
  • Austria Austria
  • Mostra tutto (14)
Categorie
Visita della città, Coppia, Cultura, Tour, Treno, Vacanza
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  • Dancing Fountains & Lamplighters

    10 maggio 2023, Polonia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today, we had a lazy start: clothes were washed, then we took a Bolt to the far side of the town: cabbie probably wondered why we chose to be dropped off there!
    Found a cool little church in the woods, then a polite young local cycled up and shared his archaeologist knowledge about the sixteenth century “reconciliation stone” nearby. Also strongly recommended a very cheap Polish cafe in town to eat at, Bar mleczny Miś 😎

    Next up came an Australian-Polish fella, wheeling a severely disabled ex-lecturer…& proceeded to explain how Polish is very misunderstood and how the world was being taken over by Jews. Might just be an ex-Nazi….he spoke of how Norman Davies and some minor Polish Aristocrat were the only ones who really understood the history….when he mentioned Trump’s Warsaw speech as being perfect, we bade him farewell. Very odd 🤷‍♂️
    That said: we read the speech later, & it was fairly on point (for Trump!)….

    A nice walk past the Japanese Garden took us towards the very grand Centennial Hall.
    A beautiful spot, lovely to wander, & we arrived to the hourly fountain show: quite spectacular!

    A few photos of the hall, then a stop for caffeine and very naughty looking cake at the Przełam Lody Cafe, then on to find the very short cable car over the river. Built for the University staff and students, it has become a little attraction in it’s own right 🚠

    Passing a man in a bright green morph suit, we made our way to the Bar in town. A big queue outside, but I went to check the menu….which was vast. & mildly incomprehensible. We decided to pop it in the box marked “too difficult”, & retreated to the extraordinary looking Kalambur, resplendent with giant insect on the wall.
    A Tyskie beer later, we were ready for some more adventure, & found it with two look-alikes for Zelensky and Putin on the main square.
    Finally, some traditional food was taken at Restauracja Wrocławska. Might have overdone it with too many Pierogi’s to start with though 👀

    Fed and watered, we set off to hunt The Lamplighter. One of only two lamplighters still employed in the EU: Zagreb, and here on Cathedral Island.
    A beautiful evening for it, and he duly obliged after turning up with his gas van!

    Our journey home took us past “Tablica Upamietniajaca Powodz Lipiec 1997” - another memorial to displaced people….quite moving, even being either side of a busy intersection.
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  • Katowice or bust…

    11 maggio 2023, Polonia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Another beautiful day dawned with the departure from Wrocław.
    We were determined to not succumb to the massive doughnuts we had seen, but crumbled when there was one last chance in the main station….

    It soon became apparent there was a 2+ hour delay to our train 😳

    We got speaking with a lovely Ukrainian scientist, Oksana, making her way back to Kiev.
    One of life’s high achievers, she worked in science, specifically nano technologies in Lviv, but dabbled in a little optical and dental implant work, holding a number of patents in various areas! She also liked painting. The sort of person whom I know would learn to ride a unicycle in 30 minutes if she put her mind to it 🤪

    We looked after her bags while she went to see how she could make her connection another way, & we ended up doing the same, albeit a simple swap to the next train for us.
    Altogether a delightful conversation. We wished her (& her countrymen) well in these troubling times.

    Our hastily rebooked seats were in the middle of the compartment, but were comfortable enough for 2½ hours 👍

    Onwards to the grand sounding Hornigold w Zielonej Kamienicy Hotel for our one night in Katowice. The room matched the name: lots of dark wood, quite grand - very nice!

    We unpacked and headed out - with an early start the next morning, we only had the afternoon and evening to explore.

    First off to the largest Cathedral in Poland, Cathedral of Christ the King. A big modern slab, it had a clean style inside.

    Back in to town to checkout dining possibilities. Not a quaint old town feel, but with a lot of bars and restaurants, it felt pleasant enough.

    I fancied seeing the Silesian Museum, housed mostly underground in a former coal mining site. Katowice was a very industrial area, hence the plentiful flats we spied on our walk….some huge star-shaped ones looking in good shape.

    The museum was a proper treat!
    Under £5 to enter, with reductions for over-60s, it took you to an underground melange of art and history.
    The airline check-in of our personal items was nicely balanced by the young guard asking where we were from. When we said “England”, he asked if it was Nottingham: not the first guess I have heard before, & he was aware of the mighty football town of Leicester….we had to confess it was quite the opposite of mighty this season 😳

    The desk lady was also interested to hear where we were from. I got the impression they have relatively few foreign visitors.

    A shame: the museum was beautifully presented, with a LOT of information.

    Contemporary art, a specific COVID art section, a small but well presented area of old religious pieces, then on to a “people’s museum” area. This outlined the struggles since the industrial age from the 1700s onwards: Habsburg, Prussians, then of course the World Wars and the brutal Soviet Occupation, all laid out in very informative and entertaining exhibits. We were there over two hours, and really could have spent longer.
    Thought we had missed out on one exhibit. Bambini, by Magdalena Abakanowicz. Elsewhere described as “Mad as a monkey with a spanner”, the huge room housing the 83 humanoid sculptures was a delight.

    We left very refreshed after this enjoyable visit. A chunk of the history was about the repression and murderous occupation, yet it didn’t leave us feeling down: a good mixture of things.

    The car park outside had gone from empty to full whilst we were underground. Some well dressed folk heading to the nearby National Polish Radio Symphony Orchestra hall, and we realised the Flying Saucer was next to that. The Spodek Arena is a spectacular venue, completed in 1971. We took many photos before heading over the road to yet another monument to Soviet Aggressions of 1919-1921.

    A return to have our emergency noodles and a beer or three, to the background of Eurovision: exciting show, especially when the Polish entry qualified!
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  • A weekend with MD FD 😎

    12 maggio 2023, Slovacchia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    It’s a funny thing, travel.

    With nothing planned, one can invariably sleep until noon….but when there is an early train to catch, sleep comes in fits and bursts 🙄

    So it was, rather tired, we set out very early in beautiful sunshine to catch the 08:14 train to Slovakia.

    We had 4 trains to line up for the day: always something of a risk there 👀

    The first hop to Bohumin was fine, & a 20 minute gap to the next was more than enough.
    However…..that train was running 10 minutes late….& the change at Zilina had only an 8 minute window, which sounded…decidedly suboptimal 👀
    We checked for later options…..but luckily for us, the onward train to Kosice was itself running 20 minutes late. Serendipity, eh!

    A comfortable First Class carriage, the views as we passed below the High Tatras National Park were just spectacular.
    The English announcements were voiced by an affable Aussie, which felt slightly incongruous but fun.

    From Kosice, there was time to grab some flowers for our lovely hosts, then the very slow train to Prešov completed our collection of trains for the day. The lady opposite was amused at my practice efforts with google translate🤣

    Mel and Frank were waiting for us, with big smiles: it was lovely to see them looking so well 👍
    It turned out it had been 4 years since they left Leicester: the volleyball club had missed them!

    We hopped in Frank’s Volvo and went to their flat, up on the 7th floor.
    The small lift had a limit of 3 people or 250kg, so it was clear Frank & I could not both be aboard. He kindly set off up the stairs, arriving in need of oxygen some time after us 🥵

    They showed us our room: bright, with some great family pictures, including Frank officiating at the 2012 Olympic qualifiers, their daughter Stephanie & their son Juraj, who played for the Slovakia National volleyball team 💪
    We dropped our bags, then the weekend started with a cheeky 12% beer, a dangerous pear shot of some sort and a good catch up, with hefty use of google translate - what a great app that is 🤣🍻

    We watched a little ice hockey before freshening up and walking to the rather nice Pilsner Urquell pub nearby for some food and another drink, before heading back for sleep: a busy day ahead🍻👍
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  • The High Tatras

    13 maggio 2023, Slovacchia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Next morning we were treated to a fine breakfast before checking we had enough warm clothes: we were heading two hours west to the High Tatras 🏔️

    A smooth drive later and we were at Štrbské Pleso - a small ski resort in winter with a very fine lake to walk around 💪

    Plenty of interesting information on our circuit, & quite a few people out enjoying the crisp fresh day.
    When groups are trying to take their own photo, I usually offer to take one of all of them. Strangely pleasing to discover the family I snapped by the lake were from Ukraine.

    The clouds, however, kept the peaks hidden from us….

    We went up past some snowy ground to take a look at the very scary looking ski jump: so high we could see the concrete from across the lake. It was used in the 1970 World Championships, but is no longer in use: not meeting current standards. They have left it as a “memorial” of those heady days. A smaller jump sat next to it.

    The Tatras Tower was tempting, especially since it had a slide down the middle, but after our long walk, we gave it a miss.

    Lunch was in the traditional Restauracia Koliba: the garlic, sheep cheese and ham soup was to die for, & the main courses were equally tasty: great decision 👍

    Frank drove us on to Stary Smokovek so we could step aboard the funicular train to reach Hrebienok, 1,285m high.

    The summits continued to be covered in thick cloud, but we did get nice views of the waterfall and across the valley to the Low Tatras…..& enjoy another cuppa in a lovely old restaurant 🫖☕️

    Finally, it was time to head back down and for Frank to stay awake driving home….the rest of us were decidedly dozy 😴

    Back at the flat, I took one for the team and jogged up the stairs 💪
    Some soup and rest before the Eurovision Song Contest later.

    When it came to it, there was no English commentary, so we watched in Czech, with Mel explaining some points: most notably that the Czech entry was sung in the Ukrainian language 💪
    We bantered with family and friends on WhatsApp and in our Older Crowd Facebook group. For the results, now past midnight, we retired to bed….Frank had wisely given up much earlier 🤣

    A great day 😎👍
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  • Going Underground…

    14 maggio 2023, Slovacchia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our hectic schedule with Frank and Mel showed no sign of letting up 🤣

    A lighter breakfast was followed by a shorter drive out to the Josef Opal Mine.

    Slovakia had the first Opal Mine in the world, and we were able to spend an hour underground on a low, very cold and damp walking tour.
    They no longer actively mine it: Australian does, but it was interesting to learn a bit about these workings. We could see tunnels going down many levels, and had an English audio guide to explain some of the history.
    The helmets did the job for Frank and me, when we hit the low roof on occasion🤣

    Stepping out into the warm sunshine was a pleasure, and we set off to seek lunch the other side of Prešov, at Šariš Park restaurant.
    It was a short drive from there to see the enormous Šariš brewery, on our way back.

    Frank took us up a narrow road to see the Calvary Complex, a small church high in a hillside above Prešov.
    The views over the city were stunning, & we were able to take a quick look inside at the incredibly ornate interior.

    Back down, old Prešov was looking gorgeous in the warm sunshine.
    We played the Sunday tourist, wandering about, enjoying an ice cream.
    The Co-Cathedral of Saint Nicholas was the place our friends were married as well as their daughter. The inside was very ornate, & we snuck upstairs for a close up of the larger electric organ.
    After this, we took the 195 steps up the Tower for more fabulous views over the city. The final stairs were fairly precarious, and the return taken very cautiously 👀

    We hunted down the marker that showed Prešov to lie on the 49th parallel. My OS Locate map suggested it might be a good few metres out, but let’s not quibble…

    A final beer was enjoyed in the square, before a cheeky food shop and an exhausted return to the flat for a rest!

    All in all, a fantastic weekend: many thanks 😎👍
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  • Moving on…& underground again!

    15 maggio 2023, Slovacchia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It was finally time to head back west, on to Bratislava. Frank and Mel kindly drove us through the rain to Kysak station, where we enjoyed one last cuppa along with the tune of the announcements….& a hoard of children off on a trip to the wilderness 🤪

    Our train was very comfortable, but the rain and low cloud continued: hopes of seeing the Tatras appeared low, but finally the weather lifted and sunshine appeared for the 5 hour journey. Music, ebook, snacks and a cuppa kept us going, & the carriage was very quiet.

    Almost failed to get off: they made up the delayed start and arrived on time 💪

    We walked 10 minutes towards town to find a temporary uninspiring door hiding the way to a beautiful spacious apartment in an old building, opposite the Presidential Palace 👍

    A quick wash-load and we set off for the short walk to St Michael’s gate, an iconic entrance to the old town.

    We continued to the main square, pausing there to take some pictures, including one for a Saudi man and his wife.

    Onwards to the unpronounceable old town square, Hviezdoslavovo námestie. Clearly the cultural quarter, with the National Theatre and Opera at one end.

    Past a chunky, massive, brutalist monument to Ludovit Štur, the leader of Slovak national revival.
    Interestingly enough, I read that on the same place there used to be a statue of Maria Theresa which was demolished by the anti-Habsburg people and this one was installed as a sign of rebellion on its place…..& that Štur died at 40 after accidentally shooting himself 😳

    Once more, we reached the ubiquitous Danube, the beautiful river that we had seen in Budapest, Ruse and Vienna. We would see it again later in the week, but here it was wide yet fast flowing in the late evening sunshine.
    We walked along and then crossed on the modern Most SNP - Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising. Also known as the UFO bridge, it was built between 1993-2012, and is the world's longest bridge to have one pylon and one cable-stayed plane 💪
    At the far end, there is the impressive UFO restaurant & viewing platform, but we were too tired to be bothered to take the rather over-priced lift for a view 🤣

    Back across on the sunny side, we headed up to the very cool Underground Tea Room for a light dinner and cuppa. One of several hundred such places that were built as bunkers during the Cold War, I was surprised to read that this little one could house up to 45 people for up to 75 hours 😳.
    Fortunately they were never needed, & we were also lucky to find the last seats in the cool little ‘rooms’. We found the Macha milkshake and Nepalese white tea certainly hit the spot, & the young lady serving was very good at her job 👍
    Amusing to witness the intense young man across from us trying to impress the young lady he was apparently trying to woo 😘

    Darkness has fallen during our time underground, so a final wander through atmospheric old streets home.
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  • Wet Wet Wet!

    16 maggio 2023, Slovacchia ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    It had to happen.
    50 days with barely any rain….& today that ended ☔️
    We had a slow start, but wrapped up against the cold rain & set off to visit the quirky Galéria Multium. A tiny gallery with a handful of small rooms with quite stunning optical illusions. Great to see it was not created by a physicist or artist, but by an IT bloke!
    On up to a very wet Bratislava Castle. An impressive slab, evidence dates back to hundreds of years BC, but from 1811 until 1953 it became a ruin. It was finally rebuilt and houses some exhibitions of the Slovak National Museum.

    With it being so wet, you’d think we dropped inside for a look.
    Well, the ticket office was like the Marie Celeste. We were forced to amble around the grounds, getting steadily more drenched.
    After some moist photos, we headed back down the hill to the old town.

    On our way down, a chance for Google Translate to shine: two people coming up jabbered at us in Slovak…..I said “sorry”, then held the phone up and got the young man to repeat it into that….they were asking if it was the route to the castle…..I spoke into it and it told them (in Slovak!) “yes it is, but it looked closed”. I am now a local tour guide, anywhere in the world 💪

    We briefly ducked into St. Martin's Cathedral, but there were roaming gangs of clergymen, so we headed back outside. On a nicer day, we might have walked the walls, but today we needed to get inside.

    After a walk through the old town, we discovered Funki Punki: great value for a delicious soup and pancakes….but maybe choosing the Elvis was a tiny mistake…who knew that peanut butter, blueberry jam and plum tomatoes might be a weird combo 🤪

    With postcards written, we headed to the Post Office for some stamps. What a fabulous building inside! Beautiful ceiling and ornate wooden teller windows.

    Back at the apartment, we could finally warm up and dry off. Some admin and highlighting our adventures in the map, then the last of Frank’s beer and a few episodes of Queen Charlotte to round off our evening 👍
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  • Rain & Regensberg, Lederhosen & Lace

    17 maggio 2023, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The rain looked to have abated as we packed up in our lovely Bratislava Airbnb, but as we headed downstairs, we found it starting up again.
    A quick check on Bolt/Uber suggested a car was only 4 mins away, so we gave in and booked it.
    Naturally, at that point, all nearby drivers decide to shun our advances and we found one 6km away, crawling towards us. Sod that: we cancelled and set off in the drizzle ☔️

    Arrived at the station rather bedraggled, but our train was on time, so we loitered, dripping, in the main hall until the platform popped up on the board.

    We had a short yet smooth change in Vienna, & found our booked seats right at the front of the train…but naturally the drivers cabin is opaque, so views were no better than normal 🤷‍♂️
    We dozed, read and snacked, & I watched a Jason Stathern film titled “Bank Job”, which went as predictably as you would expect.

    Luckily, the clouds disappeared, and we arrived in Regensburg in faint sunshine.

    Here we had a super clean Holiday Inn Express, with the bonus of free breakfast: always helps with the budget 🤣

    After discovering BBC World was the only English TV choice, wittering endlessly on about Harry and Meghan’s fake near miss “Diana-drive” through NYC, we set out to explore.

    Regensburg is a surprising delight!

    Christine had found it just looking for somewhere en route to Nuremberg, but what a fabulous find 😎
    Our fourth spot of the Danube, after Budapest, Ruse and Vienna….very fast moving around the bridge, with a couple of paddlers enjoying it.

    Inhabited since the Stone Age, it became a northern settlement for Romans. For over 700 years it was the capital of Bavaria.
    The stone bridge in town we were to cross later dates back 900 years.
    We found notes about the Diet of Regensburg: not a health or even starving thing, but from 1663 to 1806, the city was the permanent seat of the Imperial Diet of the Holy Roman Empire.

    In short; the City was Important.
    And wealthy: a German noble family with the Prince of Thurn and Taxis resided there (still does!), and made money from postal services from the 1500s, expanding to breweries and building many castles too.

    Because of that, the place is slightly unique: the impressive houses were built of brick and stone, and therefore never had major fires, like so many of their era. WWII also failed to touch the older buildings.
    As a result, the “old town” is incredibly grand, and very original. It feels exceedingly “well to do”, and is a delight to wander through.

    On our way from the hotel, we soon noticed a young man in leather shorts…..felt a little odd, but this is Baveria.
    After a short time, we realised we were the odd looking ones: many men of all generations wore them, and one or two females too. Several classy looking stores sold them, along with very fancy “Alice in Wonderland” dresses with lacy aprons.
    Over the evening, we found that many locals dressed up that way, which was really nice to see.

    We crossed the Stone Bridge and sought sustenance, finding the lively Musikkneipe Klappe - literally “music bar shut up”.
    The staff were very friendly, the beer rather nice, and we enjoyed the house special curry wurst and a plate of house spetzl: delicious!

    The walk back took us past the Goliath House, a huge building dating from around 1260, with a vast 1573 painting.
    We then went past St Peter’s Cathedral, where robed clergyman were clearly heading for an event.

    Regensburg: quite a revelation, & we looked forward to seeing more of it 👍
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  • On The Danube

    18 maggio 2023, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today dawned with sunshine and a promising full breakfast.
    We enjoyed a stroll into town and sought out more sights.

    Because of the city´s unique status as "the only authentically preserved large medieval city in Germany", the Old Town Regensburg (with Stadtamhof) was announced as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006.

    Just before the Stone Bridge is an interesting free ‘museum’ explaining a lot about the history of the town.
    Outside, we declined the option to join a huge queue for the Wurst Kuche: the oldest sausage stand/ restaurant in the whole WORLD, but once you’ve had one sausage..,,

    Instead, we decided that after seeing the Danube in Budapest, Ruse and Vienna, & passing over it on trains on countless occasions, it was high time we went on a boat for a cheeky trip.
    On the way, a nice ice cream from Aamu, & a short browse in the Bavarian Museum.

    On board our HMS Titanic (MS Strudelfahrt or similar 👀), we cruised around the island….well, up to the point where we met the lock, turned round, & went back 🤷‍♂️
    A pleasant way to spend an hour.

    From there we went hunting the Golden Church - Kollegiatstift unserer Lieben Frau zur alten Kapelle. A relatively plain exterior opens up to reveal incredibly ornate gold leaf on all interior fittings.
    It is said that Regensburg has a church for every day of the year. The Gold one and The Cathedral are the most impressive to see!

    Beer was sought in the beautiful courtyard of the classic Bischofshof am Dom. Originally the home of, yes, the Bishop, it now serves patrons food and ale. Friendly staff, nice beers, and great entertainment when a drunk older German fella next to us suddenly fell backwards on his chair….yet kept his ¾ full tankard of ale from spilling a drop: Bravo Sir🍻

    Checked out Europe’s only Master Hat Maker round the corner: sadly, the Johnny Depp hat they had previously on show was gone, but a fine display nonetheless…. Thankfully it was closed on this Ascension Day, otherwise I might have been tempted: a snip at €280 😱

    The Blue Moon Boys were setting up in a Theatre courtyard, along with the stylish “Holiday” motor 💪

    By now, after a exploring a few more alleyways, we felt we had done the place. We headed back via a grand brewing ale house, Brauhaus am Schloss. Fairly quiet when we arrived, and beautifully appointed inside, but by the time our food came out, it felt like two coaches of elderly Germans had arrived to sample the beers: nice!

    Finally, the walk home for an early night: busy day tomorrow 👍
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  • Munchen Excursion

    19 maggio 2023, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our adventures felt like they were drawing gently to a close.
    We headed down for a very early Holiday Inn breakfast…& were surprised to see an old couple who had come in with the coach party at the beer hall the night before. Enjoyed a bit of jolly banter (with no shared words…) before heading out for the station.

    We were heading for a longer stop in Nuremberg….but I had spotted our travels were just shy of 10,000km, so we decided to take a little diversion south to Munich for a few hours (& a few kms) 🤣

    We dumped the bags in a €6 locker, and headed into town passed Karlsplatz.

    A busy place, we were in time to see the 11am Rathaus-Glockenspiel perform its little animation, with hundreds of others in the square.

    Munich was chock full of churches, but St Peter’s lays claim to being the oldest, dating from before the first documented evidence of the city’s existence in 1158. It has the distinctive skeletal Saint Munditia in the second alcove on the left: the patron saint of spinsters, clutching a container of dried blood. What a beauty!

    We headed to the Munich Hofbräuhaus, perhaps the worlds most famous beer hall. Christine had some miniature tankards from her father with the HB crown logo on….still not sure where they came from: to her knowledge, he never visited the city.
    Sadly, or perhaps luckily for our livers, it was rammed full, so we continued our walk.

    An American tour guide seemed unwilling to relinquish his speakers spot next to the polished brass breast of a lady’s statue, so we pressed onward for a cuppa & at the pleasant Schmalznudel - Cafe Frischhut.

    A final check in at the vaulted and restored Gothic church, Frauenkirche: two mighty towers at the front, and the legendary Devil’s footprint inside….strangely, my shoe matched perfectly 👀

    Back out to the main station, under massive construction and not terribly grand today, we headed back up to our next destination: Nuremberg.

    An old work friend, Tony, had got in touch just before we left, back in March. He and his wife Laura were in Germany later in May.
    He mentioned some detail, but the only part I heard was that they were planning a day’s hiking in Bavaria with a guide, involving stops at 5 breweries.
    Would we care to join them?

    Is the Pope a Catholic?

    It gave us the impetus to plan the tail end of our trip early, to dovetail in with them…& we added an extra night to allow for a decent hangover!

    Here we were staying close to the station in the pleasant Hotel Garni Probst.

    After a final little laundry, we headed out to meet up with them. Nuremberg seemed a very pleasant city, and we met in the main square. After greetings and introductions, we went down some incredibly steep steps to Der Nassauer Keller zu Nürnberg, where beers, food and travellers tales were shared, before heading home to prepare for The Big Day!
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