• Michael Sullivan
  • Michael Sullivan

Camino de Santiago 2025

A pilgrimage, adventure, and endurance challenge hiking 530 miles across the north of Spain. もっと詳しく
  • Camino Norte, Day 21 => La Isla

    2025年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Cold wet slog with temps in the 50s on muddy trails with waves of heavy downpours. The kind of hike where you can hear your soaking wet feet slosh all day in your shoes. 16 miles with 1825’ ascent/1900’ descent. No lunch or places to stop - just stand for a while in the rain and eat snacks. But it was wonderful!

    Type 2 fun. The type where you suffer, but then afterwards you’re glad you did it. The Camino experience is awesome.

    We got the hotel to turn on the heat. Trying to dry out our trail shoes before tomorrow.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 22 =>Villaviciosa

    2025年9月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Over the hills inland to Villaviciosa. The last of four medium days in a row with 14.8 miles and 1750’ ascent / 1700’ descent.

    They have been growing apples in the Villaviciosa area since the late 1400s and specialize in a type of fermented cider which is not sparkling.

    Tomorrow is a long Hard day. Almost 20 miles with a very steep mountain climb.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 23 => Gijon

    2025年9月24日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Hard day with 18 miles over a steep mountain to Gijon with 2750’ ascent / 2700’ descent. Not as bad as we feared if you look at the ascent profile but definitely 20-40% grades for many sections of the mountain climb.

    Perfect fall day. Crispy 48F at dawn followed by a mostly sunny day up to 62F. The pictures can’t relate the experience of the smell of wood smoke from the country farmhouses we passed over the mountain. We found a tiny chapel at the base before the ascent. Needed that. And it just added to the surreal experience. It was for sure Type 2 fun today, but so worth it.

    Tomorrow - Recovery day. And we’ll do laundry for the first time in almost a month! Wearing the same three things over and over and trying to wash in a sink doesn’t leave your clothes smelling fresh and clean after a while. 😩

    Gijon is a relatively big city. We found a really nice Indian restaurant. We really like “mountain food” (hearty stews,
    White bean soups, etc) but sometimes we just want a change from the same local cuisine.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 24 => Salinas

    2025年9月25日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Clean laundry! It’s amazing how much you can appreciate something we normally take for granted. The Camino has been like that for us - food, bed, water, even a nice place to sit/take a break are so appreciated.

    Today’s intentions were for Alex and Ashley who are getting married today and whose wedding we missed because of the Camino. We wish them the very best!

    Today was a recovery/almost full rest day - 6+ miles. We took a train to skip most of the way out of Gijon because the book said if you are skipping any stage this is the one. Heavy industry - huge steel, gas, cement plants with smoke stacks and pipes everywhere. We’ll let ourselves catch up after five medium-hard days and pick it back up when it gets beautiful by the shore again tomorrow.

    15 more days of hiking to Santiago de Compostela. We wondered if we would mentally burn out after 23 days of hiking, but this really is awesome in so many dimensions.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 25 => Muros de Nalón

    2025年9月26日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    13 miles with 1850’ ascent / 1350’ descent. When you look at a map of the route somewhat near the sea, you would think it was flat. But the land between the Cantabrian mountains and the sea is very hilly with very steep up and downs.

    We found a lunch restaurant at mile 10 for Asturias stew or “mountain stew” (stew with potato, white beans, spinach, different types of sausages, and pork shoulder). Diane loves stew (though it has been on the menu for 10 days now)

    Beautiful day for a hike with a chilly 48F morning, 68F mid-afternoon with full sun. Hurricane Gabrielle was going to be a direct hit on the Camino Sunday after hitting the Azores, but luckily it’s turning far to the south. So no more torrential rain for a while.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 26 =>Soto de Luinas

    2025年9月27日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A Medium day that we thought was going to be easy, but was harder than expected. Today there were lots of very steep climbs like stairs. The map looked like a coastal day, but although we did descend to a beautiful beach, this was a mountain day (or at least lots of big hills). Beautiful. Challenging. 13 miles with 1750’ ascent and 2050’ descent. We feel like we deserve a beer.

    The Camino Norte is not easy. Everyone we meet who has made it this far feels like us, no matter whether they are in their 20s or 60s. But despite the struggles/sometimes suffering, they all seem determined to make it to Santiago de Compostela (each for their own individual reasons).
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  • Camino Norte, Day 27 =>Cadavedo

    2025年9月28日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Medium-hard day with 13 miles and 2400’ ascent / 2100’ descent with steep ups and downs all day through the woods, and rewarded near the end with sea cliff views and a beach.

    People we’ve met on the Camino Norte are doing it for 1) Religious reasons 2) Adventure 3) Challenge or some combination. There are people in their 1) 20s and 2) 60s who are mostly doing the whole route, then 3) 30-50s generally doing part of it in 2-3 weeks. About half are doing the Camino alone. and the majority of those are women.

    We’ve met about 40+ people but have only gotten to know a few well enough to ask Why. Here is a sample:

    Tom - 65, retired petroleum engineer. 3rd Camino. American, Traveling alone. Religious / Adventure.

    Steve - 62, a Catholic deacon, American, traveling alone. 3rd Camino for Religious and Adventure reasons.

    Angela and Hanna, both 28, German, work in Sustainability for a global German window company, 2 week vacation, for Adventure and some challenge - but took the bus on the torrential rain day.

    Marcie and Cindy - late 50s American, traveling together for mainly religious reasons.

    Bethany - 31, American but lives/works in Spain. Has been struggling with depression and thinks nature/walking will help. Was worried about being alone but someone told her Jesus is walking with her and she seems comforted by that. Wants to get a small Camino Shell tattoo at the end because this represents her comeback from the edge of suicide.

    Lien (pronounced Lynn), 34, Brugge Belgium/Flemish, diabetes nurse, 2 week vacation. She was doing it because her mother had done it for years with troubled teens and she wanted to try it.

    Ryan, 28 American, Washington DC lawyer. 2 weeks. For Adventure, not religious but born Catholic. Might come back again. Amazed at the people doing it.

    Gabrielle, 31 French Canadian, works in IT for a major bank in Montreal. Doing it for Challenge (ultra distance runner) and for religious reasons.

    Brigetta, early 60s Swedish. She is walking it for Saint Bridgette who did the Camino in the Middle Ages. She is one of the rare religious Catholics living in Sweden which she says is growing.

    Elise, age 35, French, doing 2 weeks. She is doing it for her father who is sick and who took her on the Camino when she was 12. She is also doing it to clear her head and put some difficult things behind her. Spiritual but not religious. Musician who plays traditional French music in Brussels.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 28 => Luarca

    2025年9月29日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Easy day. 11 miles with 900’ ascent and 1150’ descent. (Tomorrow a Hard day with 19+ and a lot of climbing)

    Met Diane and Kim from Vancouver at breakfast. Kim, a retired banker/professor 74. Diane a retired accountant 65 lost her husband very shortly after he was diagnosed with cancer in 2018. Very angry for 2 years until one day she went out on her porch and shouted at God “Why did you do this to me!! Just take me now!!!!” Her daughters were concerned and suggested she do a Camino like they had done in their early 20s. She met/married Kim and convinced him to do the Camino. (It’s like therapy)

    Met Rose, 63, from Kenya (living in England now) at a cafe on the side of the road. It’s her third Camino. She is constantly amazed at how fellow pilgrims can open up about very personal things in minutes (things you can know people in normal life for many years and never know). She has made many deep connections. She said in Santiago at the end of her first Camino, she cried herself to sleep because she knew she would never see some of these people again with whom she had shared so much, and together had endured the 40 days and 40 nights of a Camino.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 29 => La Caridad

    2025年9月30日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Long day. 22 miles, 2500’ ascent and 2300’ descent. Too long. But we were unexpectedly surprised when the owner of the old country hotel when we arrived asked if we had walked 34km, and then handed us both a beer. Much appreciated!

    Perfect weather. Beautiful countryside. Gradual ascent and not the hard staircase type of ascent.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 30 => Ribadeo

    2025年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Crossed into Galicia! Goodbye to Asturias. 16 miles today with 1300’ ascent/descent after a long day yesterday. Need an easy day tomorrow. So we’ll cut the really hard day that was planned.

    We turn inland now in a southwest diagonal toward Santiago through the Galician hills. Goodbye to the unexpectedly spectacular coast of northern Spain. 10 days to Santiago de Compostela!もっと詳しく

  • Camino Norte, Day 31 => Lourenza

    2025年10月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Easy day. 8 miles, 800’ ascent/1500’ descent. Will take today and tomorrow to recharge/recover.

    Into the beautiful and remote Galician hills. We walk past farms and through forest like Asturias, but it feels even more rural.

    Quiet - with only the wind and occasional birds or cows. Nothing to do but reflect, while steadily walking in nature. No distractions. Some say the first part of the Camino is for the body/endurance. The second part is a time to look inward, reflect. And the third part is for the soul/spirit/purpose. For every pilgrim it’s different. But something happens after forty days and forty nights.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 32 => Mondoñedo

    2025年10月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Easy day with 10 miles and 1300’ ascent, 1150’ descent. Hard day up a steep mountain tomorrow.

    We’re so glad we decided to take an Easy day. Montonedo is a small town with a beautiful cathedral. We also had time for a 3-course “menu” lunch that included a bottle of wine for 15 euros each. Loved the “turbo vino blanco” - a Galacian wine unfiltered fruity and slightly bubbly. (wonder if we could find it in the USA). Tried the “Tarta de Santiago” for desert -famous at the end of a Camino. Loved it. Sometimes it’s nice to just have Type 1 fun instead of always Type 2.

    The photos/videos only partially capture the beauty of the hills of Galicia. And perfect weather today for a fall walk.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 33 => Abadin

    2025年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Seemed hard today because of the weather and steep climb. 9 miles with 2300’ of staircase-like ascent, and 1000’ descent.

    25 mph wind howling in our ears on the unprotected ridge, with sideways light rain stinging our cheeks, and cold wet pants sticking to our legs.

    Abadin is a remote Galacian village without any restaurant/cafe open tonight, but there is a tiny grocery store open. Grateful for our 59euro albergue with a private room because they have heat and a warm shower and offered to wash/dry all our wet dirty clothes for 8 euros. They also have a stove/pots/plates and even wine glasses so we can make our own dinner. Coming in shivering soaking wet, we really appreciate all of this.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 34 => Vilalba

    2025年10月5日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Easy-ish day with 13 miles and 1100’ of ascent/descent, but no steep hills and on easy roads.

    The Camino Norte is changing a lot today with many Spanish people starting at this point because it can be completed in seven days. Many more will start the day after tomorrow at the 100k point because that is the minimum distance to get a Camino certificate (known as a Compostela written in Latin saying you completed it.) And crowds and crowds of people will converge four days from now because all of the different Caminos converge onto one road into Santiago de Compostela. So unlike our peaceful solitude on sea cliffs or mountain pastures, we’re preparing for a very different experience.

    Today we walked and talked the whole way with Bethany 31 whom we had met before, and Gauthier, age 31 from Lille, France working in Brussels. He just finished his job as a recruiter for NATO and took a month off to clear his head before starting a new job.

    The stone cross on the Camino is one of several we saw today known as a “monument of protection” for travelers, and a unique part of Galician culture (evidently Galicia has 1000+ of these). They are believed to be a “pardon from heaven” for those who encounter them.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 35 => Baamonde

    2025年10月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Made it to Baamonde. 13 miles, 1100’ ascent, 1300’ descent. Only 100 km to Santiago de Compostela. Beautiful sunny fall day.

    We’re noticing more and more rocks being left on the cruceiros or public crosses and sometimes photos or small personal things. Pilgrims leave these rocks as a symbol of laying down the weight of their regret, sorrow, burden, or something else they have been struggling with.もっと詳しく

  • Camino Norte, Day 36 => Miraz

    2025年10月7日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Hansel and Gretel walk today on a beautiful path through the forest with the occasional stone country house. 10 miles, 950’ ascent, 750’ descent with no steep sections. Easy day. (Hard day tomorrow)

    We met a group from the Philippines walking the Camino for religious reasons. One lady told us that the Camino Portuguese was so life changing for her last year that she decided to come again and do the last 100k of the Norte.

    We’ve seen two Spanish ladies in their late 60s/early 70s for the past three weeks but finally had time to talk. One of them said this is her 10th Camino since 2015 and she has done almost every route (for mostly religious and adventure/challenge reasons). She said that we will for sure have tears when we reach the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral of Santiago after completing the long hard Camino Norte.

    There is absolutely no place to stay in this part of very rural Galicia. The owner of a renovated old country farm house picked us up off the trail and drove 8 miles to her “rural casa” and will take us back to the trail in the morning.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 37=>Sobrado dos Monxes

    2025年10月8日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Long day with 18 miles, 1700’ ascent / 1550’ descent. It’s the last long day. Just in time, because Diane is struggling a little bit with minor tendon and sciatica pain. 37 days with some easy days, but no day off. The Camino Norte is hard.

    Met a woman from Romania who was also struggling into town and who is doing the Camino Norte alone. This is her fourth Camino. It’s amazing how many people that have had such a good experience, they come back again and again to do different Caminos.

    Went to the Monasterio Santa Maria de Sobrado for evening Vespers with the monks. It was in Spanish, so we didn’t understand the solemn hymns they sang nor the readings. Evidently they’ll be up at 4:45 am to start again, and with daily mass at 7:45.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 38 => Arzua

    2025年10月9日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We made it to Arzua, 16.5 miles, 1250’ ascent, 1500’ descent. This is where most of the Caminos converge into the final two days into Santiago de Compostela.

    Today we met Sarah, from Bretagne, France, a marathoner who also did part of the UTMB. She’s doing the Norte with her father (so nice) who had done the Camino Frances three times in his 60s. But now in his early 70s, although he runs/stays fit, the Norte is too much, and he has had to take the bus half of the way. The things we love to do, or plan/hope to do, have an expiration date.もっと詳しく

  • Camino Norte, Day 39 => O Pedrouzo

    2025年10月10日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A perfect fall day with 13 miles, 1250’ ascent, 1500’ descent and no steep hills.

    Crowded, and a party-like atmosphere that was surprisingly fun for us today. Lots of people with day packs, snack packs, or some carrying nothing at all. And a few limping.

    The quiet of the remote countryside is gone. There are improvised cafes every half mile. We see small tables along the side of the trail with people selling stuff. Some are drinking beer at 9:30 in the morning. Others stop for coffee. Lots of talking, some singing, and a couple saying the rosary as they walked. We decided to join the people having a beer. “Functional alcoholics” the Irish woman behind us said as she raised her beer bottle for a toast. We hear the sound of Galicia Celtic music in the background. After so many long hard days, sometimes it’s nice to just cut loose and have some fun.

    One more day…..We’ll miss it. We might come back for the Camino Portuguese one day - for so many reasons. But we’re also ready to sleep in our own bed and rest a little bit.
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  • Camino Norte, Day 40 => Santiago

    2025年10月11日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Made it to Santiago de Compostela!

    After 14 miles. 1400’ ascent/descent we entered the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela to the sound of Galician bagpipes (gaita galega). We got our Compostela or Certificate of Completion in Latin and also a distance certification saying that we completed the Camino Norte (828 km, 500+ miles).

    We did it for spiritual renewal, adventure, and a physical challenge. 40 days and 40 nights of hiking through quiet nature also helped put the fear and pain of cancer treatment behind us. It was one of the best things we have ever done together.

    We went to the pilgrim mass at 7:30 pm. We arrived at 7:10 but the lines were already almost 2000 people long. Completely full cathedral and very little standing room. Interesting to be in church with people from all over the world (Europe, North/South America, AUS/NZ, some Asia and Middle East though not many from Africa)

    We’ll spend tomorrow discovering Santiago before heading to the end of the earth at Finisterre and Muxia - but as Type 1 fun tourists this time who arrive by bus.
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  • Finisterre - to “the end of the earth”

    2025年10月13日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Bus to Finisterre. Took an 8-mile hike out to the tip of the continent marked by a lighthouse, and then to the beach for sunset.

    The pre-Christian Celtic people believed that Finisterre was the spiritual boundary between the world of the living and the dead. Since Roman times, Finisterre was believed to be the westernmost point of the European continent (until with modern instruments found that Cabo da Roca in southern Portugal is actually 10 miles further west)もっと詳しく

    旅行の終了
    2025年10月16日