Day 45 - Lubián - 16.8 km

Weather: 0 - 11 and cloudy
Clothes: The same

The day started clear with yet another beautiful pink sunrise. Relaxed breakfast coffee and toast at the bar and then off I went.
The first part of the walk today was along the road going up, up and more up. Today we get to the highest point of this Camino before a long downhill to Santiago.
I read that the route has also been a bit disrupted by building the AVE ( high speed train route) but all in all it was fine. The sun was shining and even though there was a cold wind that needed some adjustment of headgear from time to time, I felt snug.
Just as I was getting a bit tired of the road the route went left to the tracks and dirt roads of previous times. The route wound under the new overpasses and I crossed a wonderful river cascading over rocks. Then to my surprise I came to a white concrete roadway that took me to the highest point. I sat in the sun just before the top. I wanted to savour this stage because it felt like the end of the endless stage of the Camino. I am definitely coming into that last stage I spoke about in a previous post - before I know it I will be in Santiago. It now seems harder to stay in the day I am in - the mind keeps jumping ahead to the end.
The monument, sitting on green grass flanked by Birch trees, was a short way down from the actual highest point. I spent quite some time there before the body/mind was ready to move on down the hill.
Before long I came to the tiny village of Padornelo which never the less had a significant hotel and bar/restaurant. Warm fire, coffee and Jamon bocadilla, and I was ready for the last 8 km to Lubián.
The last section was as beautiful as the first section and yesterday’s meandering track. While I am not yet in Galicia itself I am definitely in Galician country. I feel so at home here. If yesterday was a fairy path today was the dwarf path. Wonderful.
More rivers, bridges, trees and tracks and I eventually got to Lubián. The albergue door was unlocked - as they all have been over the past few days and given it was 3.30 pm I went straight to get some food. I just scraped into the restaurant’s lunch time - ends at 4 pm. I couldn’t have waited till 8.30 pm and didn’t have the energy or brain power to buy food and cook. A lovely woman guided me to the Bar through the winding streets of this small village.
Right now I am sitting in the Bar grabbing some Wifi.
Then it’s back to the albergue to get ready for tomorrow.

Buen Camino

Reflection
The monument at the pass at A Canda (1365 metres) was a powerful moment - an important moment - a place to stop and reflect. It has taken me 6 weeks to reach this point and in two weeks I will in Santiago.
In my mind’s eye I could see Santiago ahead and after that the rest of my life - which at that moment seemed more terrifying and uncertain than walking the Camino forever.
My mind very naturally reflected on the last 6 weeks and various Camino memories arose - the hard bits, the easy bits, the inspiring bits. In that moment I wanted to go back to Sevilla and do it all over again.
This Camino feels like getting to know a stranger with all the ups and downs of that journey - only to discover that as you come to thoroughly know them, there is only love. And love. And love.
My eyes keep getting wet and I am not sure why. Anticipation of the Camino goodbye or the love that the Camino elicits?

Camino amigo talks about Galicia
I had a buddy last night. A man from Madrid, Serge, who is riding his bike from Sevilla to Santiago in 15 days. That’s all the time he has. Phew! He wants to ride through Chile. The Camino is part of his preparation.
Serge lived in the US for a year and is a flight attendant. We had a great chat. And he gave me the warmest farewell after coffee in the morning. I again saw that I am shy of goodbyes and letting people know how much they mean to me - something to let go.
Serge’a father comes from Galicia and he told me a little about this district. It’s one of the poorest in Spain because it is so mountainous. Serge said his father left the village at age 14 to go to school and that in the 60’s people started to move to the cities. There are only two people living permanently in Serge’s father’s village. Many who have left villages have kept and renovated their traditional village homes and go there for the summer holidays. So the villages can be busy in summer but deserted in winter. This part of the Camino goes through tourist areas - hence the bigger hotels and Bars.

PS. I am standing outside (catching some internet bars) as the sun sets and the moon rises. It’s clear and cold but so fresh and pleasant. I am a mountain person. Beautiful.Read more