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Camino Sanabrés
  • Rita Flower
okt. – nov. 2022

Camino Sanabrés

Extension of Via de la Plata Läs mer
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  • Resans start
    27 oktober 2022
    Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Day 1 - Camino Sanabrés - turning left / west to Orense
    The extraordinary bridge at first lightThe rather terrifying track on the other side of the lake. You can see the lake thru the trees.That small yellow arrow was the only indication that I could progess carefully over these rocks.Reflections - looking back to the bridgeBeautiful moss on dead shrubsBack to the plains - my amigo aheadSome houses have lots of flowers - loved this roseFirst bodegas I have seen. These seemed unused. They are used to store wine... and to drink wineMussels. Yum! €4

    Day 37 - Tábara - 25.1 km

    27 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 1 on Camino Sanabrés

    Weather: 13 - 22 degrees. Light cloud. No rain.
    Clothes: short sleeve merino shirt, light wind fleece, trekking pants, pressure socks which work well.

    Started just before 7 am with a fellow Pilgrim and passed through the lightly forested area in the dark. I could see the trees in either side with my head lamp. I was glad to have an amigo ahead of me giving me a sense of confidence and safety.
    It’s tricky walking with just that small pool of light. It’s hard to tell up hill or down hill, except by the effort required going up, and a sense of instability going down. About an hour in I came to a steep down hill. In the dark it looked like the road just disappeared. I started down with what I thought was care. I couldn’t see how long the down hill section was - and lo and behold - I slipped and landed ‘softly’ on my left knee. Instead of chiding myself I congratulated myself on a great save - no injuries, not even a scratch or graze. I progressed with even more care.
    One of the major things about walking with others is to not hurry to their pace - a real discipline - but to let them move ahead if they are faster than you. One of the reasons I slipped was that the mind was slightly ahead of my feet and I was hurrying a little to keep up with my fellow pilgrim.
    The highlight of the day came soon after - a bridge spanning a beautiful lake, and then a tricky and interesting walk along the other side of the lake. I got there at first light and saw the headlamps of the two guys ahead of me on the other side of the lake. Without that encouragement I would have been very wary about that left turn off the sealed road and into what looked like a very precarious or non existent track. Thank goodness for the yellow arrows that kept me going over seemingly impassable rocky outcrops. It was a most beautiful walk, tracking along the side of the lake . There were many areas of up turned soil which I think was from wild pigs; but mainly trees, rocks and tiny meadows.
    After a steep climb to the top of the hill/ mountain there was a bit of a meadow walk and then on to the next plain/meseta - this time with crops of corn and lucerne.
    Right now it is 12.30 pm and I am sitting in the first bar since we left, drinking a Vino Tinto with sparkling mineral water and eating a tapas of mussels. Yum! Then on to the last 7.1 km to Tábara.
    Later
    Oh, that was a hard 7 km. But slow and steady with a few breaks got me to Tábara and the albergue on the far side of town. They offer dinner at 8 pm and breakfast at 7 am.
    The afternoon is warm and breezy so I took advantage and washed some clothes after my lovely hot shower. I must say the facilities in the albergues have been excellent - and either €5 or €6 or by donation.
    Now I am back down at the bar having an ensalata mixta (iceberg lettuce, sardines this time, eggs and lots of roasted capsicum) and a vino so I can last till dinner. The Bar was really nice to do food at 4.00 pm when the cook was just about to finish. 🙏🙏🙏
    Today was an extraordinarily interesting day with a bit of a slog at the end. I will try and plan a shorter day for tomorrow.

    Buen Camino    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    My breakfast amigos
    Sunrise - autumn is here and trees have lost their leavesSpain has very rocky ground. I think the ploughs must be made of titaniumBeautiful start to the dayThen land devastated by fireThese are not autumn colours but the colours of fireThis rain water channel is full of ash from the fires.But a lovely cool river at the end of the day.Santa Marta ChurchA very early pilgrim- he looks a bit like we all sometimes feel on Camino

    Day 38 - Santa Marta - 22.8 km

    28 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Weather: Temp: 14 - 21 degrees. Light rain late morning and late afternoon.
    Clothes: short sleeve merino top, light fleece, trekking pants.

    The walk
    This was described as a relatively easy walk in terms of terrain, through forested hills. Instead it has been a rather sad day walking through country devastated by last summers fires - mile after mile - for the whole walk.
    At one point one side of the road was completely burnt and black and the other side green with some trees. I stopped to take it all in. The burnt side was silent; it felt dead. I could hear bird song in the distance - but all coming from the green side of the road.
    Even worse, the trees in Spain will not recover the way the eucalyptuses do. I think there were great swathes of hills already completely cleared for replanting.
    At one point I thought the soil had changed colour from red and yellow to black. Then I saw the black was from the fires. So sad.
    In the evening I went to the Santa Marta church which is a unique and important Romanesque Church built in the 12th - 13th Centuries and being the location for the first Camino Pilgrim statue - a small statue, flanking one of the doors.
    There is an area at the back of the church that you pass through to get into the nave. This area seemed filled with energy and I wondered if a saint was buried there. It turns out that it is the repository for a number of important relics. I guess these ones were for real because the relic box definitely gave out a lovely strong and constant vibration. I wonder if I will feel anything this time in Santiago.

    Food
    The stopping point for tonight is a bit confusing regarding food. I thought there was a restaurant 1 km before my final destination but with the sore knee I missed it. But I did stop at the shop for some extra supplies.
    In the bar near the albergue I got a a Jamon and cheese bocadilla at 3.30 pm. I thought maybe I would have to fill up on wine 😂😂😂
    Then when I was at the church I prayed to be nourished by divine light seeing I hadn’t eaten my usual hearty meal. It must have worked at least a bit because dinner of fruit, yogurt and nuts was enough. 🙏🙏🙏

    Update in the body
    Remember that ‘soft’ fall I had the other day. Well I didn’t notice that I had grazed/ bumped the side of my left knee. Today it started to really hurt. So I stopped, used the Voltarin cream and popped on the elastic bandage. Thank goodness I was only a couple of K’s from the next town. Right now I am in the bar with my vino, some tapas and resting my leg in a chair. I will sit here for a while and see how it goes.
    On the bright side the hills of today were so much easier than a few weeks ago - which is great as we get into the more hilly country.

    Camino magic.
    Last night I ate a small amount of the pilgrim meal at 8 pm. A slight headache had started in the afternoon/ evening and I woke with the same headache, plus a stuffed up nose and scratchy eyes.
    Note to self: Do not eat that late again - not even a small amount! Not a good start to the day.
    I also woke with the feeling of being an incompetent and vulnerable child - that I was incapable of doing anything - maybe like an abandoned 5 year old. I have had this feeling a few times on Camino but instead of turning away, this time I acknowledged and welcomed the feeling with the understanding that this is not who I really am.
    So with all that I got dressed and went to breakfast. The coffee was well appreciated and there was music playing on the CD player. There was a choir singing something very familiar and I think connected to the Christian church. It was incredibly beautiful; the voices touched something deep and wonderful inside, and tears came. I let them come for a few moments and then went outside for some privacy. Then the music changed, the tears calmed and I went back inside.
    Now for the past few days I have been surrounded by men - some of them seemingly sweet and some annoying. Last night there were two pilgrims with whom I have been keeping pace and three on bikes. It’s funny sleeping in a dorm with 5 blokes. There is very little privacy but a wonderful protocol of keeping to one’s self so it is easy to get dressed and undressed in the dark.
    Anyway back to the story - when I went back inside to breakfast something had changed. They were no longer nice or annoying men to be kept at arms length - they were fellow pilgrims, in fact just fellow humans, with me, on this journey of life for a short time. Even as I write these words my eyes fill with tears - something has loosened, softened.
    I am sitting in a bar (midday break) with music playing (something Spanish) making me want to dance just for the joy of being alive at this time and in this place.
    I think we must waste so much energy keeping things inside, tamped down, keeping it together. One of the things I love about the Spanish is that what you see is what you get - sometimes grumpy, frustrated, tired but eventuality nearly always kind, helpful and connected.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    1Gentle track through autumn leaves
    But I started with quite a pleasant road walk for 5 kmBig rolling rivers. These are a new sight as we head north west2Love those leaves - and that particular smell in the rain1Grey, green, gold.That rainbow was a sign that God's plan was better than my plan.View from my window this afternoonThe river that separates the two towns with virtually identical namesThe bridge over the river to Bar BlancoAnd here it is - there is another section across the road. Patrons must come from far and wide

    Day 39 - Calzadilla de Terra - 12 km

    29 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Weather: 12 - 18 degrees. Cloudy with rain forecast later in the morning and afternoon
    Clothes: short sleeve merino shirt, light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The scenery
    Todays walk was through small poplar plantations with beautiful autumn leaves, and past rich farm land - mainly flat and beside a slow river. The smell of the fallen leaves in the light rain was particularly special- reminding me of the Cotter River near Canberra. The rain so far has been very light and with the warm temperatures it is not a problem. The cold downpours of my nightmares haven’t eventuated.

    Today’s adventure.
    Because of my still healing knee I decided to just walk the 5 km along the road to the next town with a hotel. However I didn’t know that this town has archeological significance and I forgot it’s Saturday. So of course the hotel was ‘completo’ - full.
    Thinking I was only walking a short distance meant I went slowly and took a 5 minute break every 20 minutes - protecting my knee. So even though I couldn’t stay the night it was a great stop I would have otherwise bypassed. I had an excellent coffee and yummy pastry. Bueno.
    The next town was only another 5 km on so I continued slowly, enjoying every moment of the day. It made me realise that walking more slowly through the day benefits both body and mind.

    I am the only one in the albergue tonight. Often the albergues are locked or have a resident hospitalaro - but this one was open, with a box for donations and a self check in system. It’s on the first floor of a medical centre- but being Saturday the services downstairs are closed. There was a lovely welcoming feeling to just arrive and open the door.
    There is a small supermarket in town and a rather up-market Bar Blanco in the town across the river.
    I had chickpea soup, pork steaks and salad and flán for dessert (with the customary bottle of wine - I don’t drink it all) . Pork is pretty much a staple in Spain so always on the menu - but I think I am looking forward to a change.
    All the ‘boys’ have just arrived at the Bar and the cards are out. It’s a serious thing with a green felt cover on the table on which to play the cards. They must have finished lunch - I wonder what the women do.
    I’ll hang around here for a while and use the free wifi and then wander back to my albergue.
    I have enough food for a light snack tonight and breakfast tomorrow.
    I heard my next stop has an outstanding restaurant - it’s all about the food. 😂

    Buen Camino    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Beautiful windfall apples. I ate one and it was delicious.
    The church seemingly in the middle of nowhere - or between two villagesOpen road, open sky - the start of the dayThe lake and the devastation as far as the eye could see2A few small areas escaped. I loved these rocks.Who wouldn't want to spend the night here - with an English speaker!!!KitchenMy bed in the corner2The building I am in before the renovation - they lived in tents for a whileRock garden where I sat in the sun and the morning's path to the right.

    Day 40 - Villar de Farfón - 10 km

    30 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Wow - day 40 and the nearly the end of the month!
    Weather: 8 - 17 degrees. Cloudy then sunny.
    Clothes: long sleeve merino top today, light wind fleece, trekking pants, and then rain jacket a bit later as it cooled down higher up in the hills - and I’m going slow with lots of stops.

    I’m so happy it stopped raining during the night.
    Three young peregrinos arrived last night; wet, cold, tired and hungry after walking some 35 km. By then it was raining too much for them to go to the Bar over the river so they cobbled together some dinner from the little shop just down the road. A tough night but the sun is out so I think things will get better for them.
    My walk plan: stop every 30 mins to rest the knee.

    The walk
    Flat agricultural land - some with corn and some fallow. There was one section after Olive de Tera where the roadside was planted with alternating apple trees and grape vines. The apple trees had all dropped their fruit - enough to make a lot of cider. I thought about how beneficent these trees are; they reminded me of Latvia - they just keep on giving.
    Just further there were some acres of abandoned vines- I think they were grapes but also some other berry vine that I couldn’t recognise. I wonder what happened.
    I am sitting outside a church quite far from town (stop #2) and had a lovely interaction with a local lady who was walking by. The Spanish quickly recognise pilgrims. It’s been a part of their culture for so many centuries and has been popularised in recent years. When you walk in Spain you feel at least recognised and sometimes honoured but always greeted well.
    The young woman from last night said she had walked in Italy and did not get the same reaction.
    Climbing a bit higher a lake appears and most of the walk is spent skirting the lake and crossing over the dam wall and then walking along the other side. Sadly there is lots of evidence of last summers bushfires. It’s lovely high country and must have been truly beautiful last spring. There are small areas that the fires missed so hopefully the land will regenerate more easily.
    Where I am sitting (resting the knee) has not been completely burnt and there are still birds chirping and flitting through the trees.
    It’s so quiet here that even with the sound of the water passing through the dam’s spillway, I can still hear the flutter of bird wings. We are far away from any motorway now so the silence behind the sounds of nature is complete. The silence of the Self.
    A new thing. I heard the bang of what might be guns. I think this is a long weekend of hunting- I read about it on the Camino Forum from someone on another Camino. Just the odd bang here and there. 🙏

    And then a surprise. 😲
    Just as I was getting a bit tired I came to the next small village. It had so many old and crumbling buildings- it felt quite ancient. It has also been surrounded by fire. I wondered how the residents were managing.
    There was a sign that indicated coffee 200 metres and then coffee 80 metres. That’s where I needed to go. And then just as I got to the end of town the sweetest little albergue came into view. It looked like a pixie house. This was where I would get coffee.
    A man was hobbling down the lane and it turned out he was the hospitalaro- Craig originally from South Africa . He and his family are Christians and have been in various countries (India and Africa) doing good works - in the best sense of the word. They decided to come to Spain and open an albergue. Ten years ago Craig and his wife Dorothea bought a virtually derelict building and made a home for themselves and a refuge for pilgrims. During the fires Craig fell off the roof and broke his leg. His home and pilgrim refuge had been surrounded by fire.
    Anyway I knew this was my stopping point today. I drank two cups of tea (PG tips from the UK sooo good ☕️) and we talked for an over an hour about spirituality and Christianity before Craig showed me to my accomodation, checked me in and left me to the shower and clothes wash routine. Dinner is at 7 - a more manageable time for me. There is no shop in town so I have eaten nearly all the food I had with me. I had wondered why last night I didn’t share anything with the late comers. Now I knew - I needed it all for myself today.
    Now I am sitting in the sun out in the front rock-garden listening to the bees and flies and soaking in the warmth of the sun - and I was just visited by a huge fat bee. 🐝
    It’s so quiet and still here and reminds me of the high country of NSW - country so close to my heart.
    And still the silence continues…….

    How am I?
    My knee is still sore so I was planning to take it easy doing a slow 15 km - which turned into 10 km. The cool autumn weather is pleasant and the clouds are parting to show blue sky. It’s supposed to be sunny in the afternoon.
    I stopped to put my leg up for 5 minutes at a small village some 2.3 km from my starting point. I guess it will be another day of very regular stops to give the knee a chance to keep healing.
    I think I might have used most of the excess resources on my body. 😂. I seem to be getting hungry more quickly, and my one big meal doesn’t satisfy me for as long as it used to. Doesn’t mean I’m skinny though. But I guess as I build more muscle I need more food.
    Today I have eaten - bread, banana, half tub of yogurt, big avocado, tuna, more bread, chocolate - and it’s only 11.00 am and I could still eat. 🥗🥙🍕🍗🥘
    Anyway all is well. I was reflecting that in the early weeks of this Camino the walking was so hard that I couldn’t wait to get to the end of the day. Not only hard because of the landscape and weather but because the body wasn’t fit. Now I am happy to walk. The pack feels fine and of course the weather is much more user friendly particularly as I haven’t experienced any heavy rain to date.

    PS. The time changed. I gained an hour today but that means pilgrim dinner is at 6 pm. Yummy bean soup plus vino - of course.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Fairy path through the fairy forest
    Avoiding the puddlesThe deer lept through just about hereBeautiful pattern of branchesRiver NegroThis Camino sign is most common at the momentTussocky flat boggy ground. The photo doesn't quite capture the feelingWalking off the edge of the world.2The Bar that lies - hahaSo happy to see the sun and feel its warmth at the end of the day. Interesting bell tower.

    Day 41 - Mombuey - 15.1 km

    31 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Weather: 6 - 14 degrees. Rain forecast all day.
    Clothes: long sleeve merino , light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants, rain poncho
    Body: The knee is better every day. I am happy that I stopped early yesterday. Today it’s been fine on the flat and up hill, but down hill I need to take it slowly.
    I tried out my rain poncho for the first time today. It’s a bit short but then doesn’t flap around my legs which is good. I zipped the legs off my pants - skin is easier to dry than fabric. I felt snug as a bug in a rug. It hardly rained at all for the first 5 km and then it was light rain with gusty wind for a lot of the next 10 km

    The walk
    An online Camino amigo said today’s walk is beautiful and it has been - initially like walking through a fairy forest. I’m out of the bushfire impacted area and can see what it used to look like. The trees are short and many are covered with interesting moss. And a deer crossed my path - she leaped over the road and I saw her white tail disappear through the trees.
    I wanted to stop after 5 km - at Rionegra - for a longer rest and maybe a coffee but it’s Monday and all the bars are closed. So I was going to sit in the shelter of the albergue porch - when lo and behold- a woman came over to see if I wanted accomodation. I said I was just resting my knee so she unlocked the door and let me in. This is another great albergue in which I had planned to stay before the pixie house caught my eye. Anyway a 30 minute rest on the couch was perfect before I set off for the next 10 km to Mombuey.
    I am so glad I rested. The next 10 km was over interesting flat open land with tussocks and marshy bits. It was a bit rainy with quite a bit of wind once I left the shelter of the trees. It was hard going and the elements made it harder to appreciate the landscape.
    I stopped a number of times just to stand and stare - particularly when the wind died down. It was quite beautiful and reminded me a bit of the high country around Kiandra.
    But I had to be careful the whole time because there was a lot of water on the trail.
    Anyway I sort of stumbled into Mombuey and stopped at the first bar I saw.
    Even though they advertised a pilgrim meal they wouldn’t do one - not sure why. Not having Spanish leaves me guessing a lot of the time. Anyway I had chips with ham, bacon and three cheeses on top. Filled up the empty spots and brought me to my senses. Now that I could think more clearly I found the albergue, found house #9 to knock on the door for a key (the nine looked more like a four) and arrived at another small albergue- great bathroom, fridge and microwave, and heater!!!
    By the way the clocks changed yesterday so sunrise will be a bit earlier from now on.
    As I move into the final month of my trip I need to be a bit more frugal. So I got my dinner at the supermarket- lentil soup I can heat in the microwave- and some fruit and food for the road tomorrow.
    Again it seems I am solo. I don’t think there will be any late comers as it’s almost 6 pm.
    The weather forecast looks good for tomorrow - yeah. 🌞🌞🌞

    Buen Camino.

    PS. Never say never. A Spanish man just arrived at 6.56 pm.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    1One misty moisty morning....
    1Mushroom weather1Tunnel of trees1I love the plants at the front - a type of broom? Their vertical lines contrast with the trees2Can you see the deer?Sitting quietly on the church porch reflecting on pilgrimage. Seeing more cemeteries now.1Hobbit town?Finally the sun and blue sky.1Stone fence and pine forestView from albergue

    Day 42 - Asturianos - 17.2 km

    1 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Weather: 1 - 14 degrees 😰 but no rain and sun later in the morning.
    Clothes: Long sleeve and singlet merino top, lightweight fleece, rain jacket ( for warmth) and trekking pants.

    The Walk
    First stop - bar around the corner for a coffee. ☕️
    There was no rain but there was a wonderful fog until around midday. Again reminding me of winter in the Snowy Mountains.
    The day took me through a corridor of trees, past a rabbit and then a group of deer bouncing across the road in the misty distance. Later there were a number of small villages- so sweet - and steeper ups and downs as we climb further into this current range of mountains.
    I met two peregrinos on the road - the first on a bike and then a man on foot passed me as I sat on a stone to have a snack and a rest.
    I arrived at Asturianos around 2 pm, saw a Bar just along the road and ordered Ensalata Mixta - my favourite.
    When I arrived at the albergue the man I met in the road was there but pretty soon others followed. A German man, two Italians, a. Spanish woman - so now we are six. Even though I spent virtually all day alone the numbers are increasing as the days go by. Some started in Sevilla in early October and have caught up with me and passed me, and others have started at various other places like Salamanca and Zamora.
    The albergue is next to a sports centre with its own bar and large outdoor picnic area. I think they must have a rifle range as well because I heard shooting.
    I finished my day with some yoga outside on the grass in the sun.
    Last thing was a quick trip to the shop for a bit of supper and something to eat in the way tomorrow - but was closed because today is a public holiday - for honouring the dead - like Hallowe’en.

    Camino Magic
    Around 10.30 am Juan on the bike walked with me for a few minutes and then we stopped as he shared some information about accomodation for tomorrow in Puebla de Sanabrés. He will be there tonight. It was a strangely intimate and warm interaction. Then he headed off in his bike (Buen Camino) and I started walking again. I immediately noticed the pain in my knee had completely disappeared. Was Juan some kind of shaman? I contemplated and reflected.
    At one point earlier I had had a little chat with my Higher Power and agreed to continue at a slow pace and not keep hankering after 20+ km days. Part of me wants to show I can do these longer days. But I agreed to under 20 km days - so now I don’t need a dodgy knee to keep me at that pace. So whether is was Juan or surrender to the Greater Wisdom, the knee seems to have miraculously stopped hurting.
    I did take an ibuprofen and 2 Panadol much earlier but the miraculous‘healing’ seemed to happen a very long time after that.
    Whatever - I am very happy.

    Reflection on persistence
    This morning I had the urge to chant the Rudram - an ancient Vedic chant. Unfortunately the one thing I didn’t do before I left home was to load up my spiritual music into my current phone. So I found the Rudram on YouTube and played it for a few minutes. I didn’t do the whole thing because I wasn’t on Wifi and I didn’t want to use my data. Anyway, then I just felt like sitting quietly, which I did for a few moments. Then there was the impetus to check on my next few Camino days. My knee is still sore so I am limited to around 15 km a day for a while.
    The stop after tonight has no albergue - closed. And it’s a tourist town with expensive hotels - well expensive by Spanish standards. Before the knee injury I was very clear that I wouldn’t pay those prices and would walk the 28 km to the next accomodation. Well that wasn’t going to happen now.
    I tried to call the cheapest hotel but couldn’t get through so had to go through booking.com. First there were no vacancies, then there were, then there weren’t. But I had learnt from my lovely daughter that you should keep trying as availability and even price can change depending on which links you use. Anyway turns out tonight is booked out but tomorrow- when I need the room - had a vacancy. Persistence pays.
    So it turns out I am stopping where I was determined not to stop but got the cheapest hotel in town - which will still be excellent.
    And I read it is a tourist town with many things to see. So I’m looking forward to exploring in the afternoon.

    The fabric of the universe is an energy we call Love.
    I was reminded of this teaching again the other day so I have been practicing seeing that everything is made of Love. Yesterday’s rain and wind was made of Love. Todays fog - Love. Being tired - Love. Sore knee - Love. This practice has made seemingly difficult things much more pleasant.
    And the truth of this bore fruit when speaking to the German man this afternoon. He walked through the same wind and rain that I did but thought it was dreadful. I didn’t really mind so much - unless it rained and blew more on him than me - which is another possibility. 🫢

    I have been reflecting on the spiritual elements of the Camino - what is it that makes it different from just another walk or hike. Hopefully I can report back soon.

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Pink morning sky all around.
    Some other pilgrims on the road this morningLovely trees and sky2Those spiky plants againDelicious wind fall applesNow here are the real mountainsMedieval castle on the hillHotel los Perales lobbyBedroom fit for a queenRiver reflections - I cross this river to get to my hotel. The old town is in a loop of the river.

    Day 43 - Puebla de Sanabria - 12.5 km

    2 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Weather: 1 - 13 degrees. Cloudy with some sun. Brrrr
    Clothes: short and long sleeve merino tops, light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The walk.
    I’m looking forward to Puebla - it has a medieval old town and the nearby lake is the largest glacial lake on the Iberian peninsula.
    What a beautiful day. Wonderful sunrise and blue sky for much of the morning.
    My German friend Peter warned me last night that this next section on the Camino can be flooded after rain and that he was going to walk along the road - and that is a bit shorter as well.
    I started off with Peter along the road but thought I would walk the off road Camino. However when I got to the turn off something stopped me. I looked at the map and read the route description again. It sounded like this could be even worse than some of the other wet sections I had already traversed. A quick check in with the body and I headed back to the road.
    And what a beautiful walk - virtually no traffic and beautiful autumn trees (Birch, Chestnut and others I couldn’t identify) on either side of the road. A little later there were windfall apples again - delicious.
    And then the real mountains appeared ahead - the ones that will eventually be covered in snow - again reminding me of the Snowy Mountains - this time the view from Geehi Flats (the old air strip) where we used to pick blackberries.
    So many of the landscapes of Spain remind me of Australia. New yet familiar.
    Arrived at Puebla around 11.30 am, stopped at the supermarket for some fruit and the Farmacia for some more ibuprofen and Panadol. I had a quick look at the town and then on over the second river crossing to my hotel. It looked a bit run down from the outside but the inside is great - filled with all sorts of collectables from the area.
    The manager also said I can use their computer so I can finally fill out the form for the claim for a fraudulent transaction on my Cash Passport card. Better late than never.
    Staying in a hotel also gives me the chance to completely empty my pack and get organised again.
    On the next day or so we will go over the highest point on this Camino and then down hill to Santiago.
    Later in the afternoon I walked back up to the old town and had a peaceful wander around the castle and adjacent streets. A lovely way to end the day.

    Buen Camino

    PS. Managed to wash and dry most of my clothes. I washed undies, socks and one top earlier and when the heaters came on washed some more. My wind fleece was looking grubby so now it too is clean and fresh.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    2The castle. No matter from which angle I took a photo it, was still mainly very high walls
    Some renovations complete and some ongoingView to the church towerOne of the gates through the wall.Old houses - new transportToo many gorgeous streetsThe Old Town Hall on the rightWalking along the ramparts.View from the bottom of the hill1View from my window with the waxing moon

    Puebla de Sanabria - Medieval Old Town

    2 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I think this historic town deserves a page to itself. Especially as all the signs are in Spanish and English.
    The town was taken over in 1451 by the Fourth Count of Benavente and his wife, Countess Maria de Pacheco.
    They built the castle and Countess Maria ‘concluded that together they built the town’ - which they probably did in the sense that I imagine it might have been a rather ‘insignificant’ village before the Count and Countess came and put their mark on it.
    This region is situated quite close to Portugal so the Count and Countess had to be prepared to defend their territory.
    As I was exploring the castle and surrounds I came across (dare I say) a ‘trendy’ Bar/Cafe. Of course I stopped. I’ve been ‘roughing’ it for quite a a while now. So I got a vino and wedges with sauce and sour cream. I must say the wine was excellent and the wedges were perfect.
    This medieval town is exquisite. It’s like a huge outdoor museum. As well as the castle, walls and defence structures (like the watch tower) there is a large church and a smaller chapel. The surrounding buildings have been well restored and the work is ongoing. All the important buildings are named and explained.
    I always wonder who actually lives in these places now. Are they for some sort of elite or are some of the old time residents still around.
    My wander around the narrow and twisting streets has been one of the highlights of this Camino - partly because it was unexpected and partly because the old town felt really accessible.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    1First sighting
    1Track to the river walk1The river through the trees1Little bridge #11Little bridge #2 - where I tried my unsuccessful detour through the water meadow on the right1Rainbow still with me2Small waterfall. Part of Cascada de Aguas Cernidas. I didn't get to the start - it went left1Waking through the fairy forest2Meadow with cowMore beauty

    Day 44 - Requejo - 12.7 km

    3 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Weather: 2 - 14 degrees. Yesterday said rain - today maybe not.
    Clothes: short and long sleeve merino top, fleece and rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The walk.
    I left my hotel to a misty foggy morning- droplets of water that could perhaps be called rain only a couple of times.
    There have been a number of warnings that the Camino trail could be flooded in certain sections here during rainy seasons. However given it wasn’t actually raining when I left at 9 am I thought I would see how I felt when I got to the first turn off.
    Well it seemed fine so off I went along the river. And it was exquisite. There were a couple of water hurdles but someone had kindly made some small bridges and the only time I got my feet wet was when I thought the second bridge looked a little unsteady and I tried to walk through the meadow. Turns out it was a water meadow so with slightly wet feet I headed back to the bridge which turned out to be rock solid.
    Walking along the river was a such delight I didn’t at all mind the slightly wet feet.
    I also began to understand that this section might have been difficult and even frightening for someone else. - thinking of my German friend Peter, who has had 5 operations in 4 years.
    Again I was grateful for my early life in the country; camping, walking through the bush and enjoying the challenges this can bring.
    After the first river section I followed the arrows and walked along the road where I was partnered by a rainbow for the next hour or more. 🌈🌈🌈. How can I doubt that I am loved and protected?
    I missed the next river section as the causeway just off the road was flooded and a man came to shout me away - he was really looking for his cow but he also seemed to indicate that I should stay on the road
    The next choice was to either continue along the road or try the longer ‘scenic’ route. I took the scenic route and as it initially went up hill, seemed safe from flooding.
    I was so happy I did that. It was a fairy land of tracks and trails and trees and leaves and light and sparkling streams and small meadows and cows and bliss -perhaps the most beautiful section since Sevilla. ❤️❤️❤️. One guide said it was picturesque- an understatement.
    I arrived at Requejo at 12.30 pm - no time at all - stopped at the Bar for a refresh before I went to find my albergue.
    On the way there I met a young French man - he said his name was Rocket. He was travelling to Porto - hitchhiking and walking. It was comforting for us both to have a conversation- his English was great - and to wish each other well in our various adventures.
    After the usual albergue routine I headed for the local hotel/ restaurant to eat. Although the town seems deserted the restaurant was buzzing - with tables having second and even third seatings.
    So that’s it for today. Till tomorrow.

    Buen Camino

    Reflections on the mind …
    At various times in the night and early morning the mind fretted about rain and coffee. Will it rain and do they serve real coffee for breakfast in the hotel (there are no Bars nearby). Thank goodness through mindful practice I was able to turn away from these thoughts and have a good nights sleep.
    And guess what - no rain, just fog: and plenty of real coffee for breakfast. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
    Today I realised that the mind has been doing an awful lot of worrying over this Camino - as I have shared in previous posts - more so than on previous Caminos . Over and over again everything turns out OK.
    I also thought it might be that there is so much more fear energy in the world these days. From all the people wanting to walk a Camino but sharing on various forums how scared they are - to Peter yesterday taking about flood and snow as we head over the mountains.
    And here I am, the sun is shining, I am well fed, I have warm bed and clean clothes. And I am safe.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    3The start of the day
    So many streams in the mountains of GaliciaUnder the new super highways - EU in actionThe highest point - time to stop and reflectMore amazing pathwaysAnd a few water hazardsThe dwarves pathA very old road2These two men showed me around the old mill and bakery that they were renovating -and gave me applesThe end of the day - sunset and the waxing moon

    Day 45 - Lubián - 16.8 km

    4 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Weather: 0 - 11 and cloudy
    Clothes: The same

    The day started clear with yet another beautiful pink sunrise. Relaxed breakfast coffee and toast at the bar and then off I went.
    The first part of the walk today was along the road going up, up and more up. Today we get to the highest point of this Camino before a long downhill to Santiago.
    I read that the route has also been a bit disrupted by building the AVE ( high speed train route) but all in all it was fine. The sun was shining and even though there was a cold wind that needed some adjustment of headgear from time to time, I felt snug.
    Just as I was getting a bit tired of the road the route went left to the tracks and dirt roads of previous times. The route wound under the new overpasses and I crossed a wonderful river cascading over rocks. Then to my surprise I came to a white concrete roadway that took me to the highest point. I sat in the sun just before the top. I wanted to savour this stage because it felt like the end of the endless stage of the Camino. I am definitely coming into that last stage I spoke about in a previous post - before I know it I will be in Santiago. It now seems harder to stay in the day I am in - the mind keeps jumping ahead to the end.
    The monument, sitting on green grass flanked by Birch trees, was a short way down from the actual highest point. I spent quite some time there before the body/mind was ready to move on down the hill.
    Before long I came to the tiny village of Padornelo which never the less had a significant hotel and bar/restaurant. Warm fire, coffee and Jamon bocadilla, and I was ready for the last 8 km to Lubián.
    The last section was as beautiful as the first section and yesterday’s meandering track. While I am not yet in Galicia itself I am definitely in Galician country. I feel so at home here. If yesterday was a fairy path today was the dwarf path. Wonderful.
    More rivers, bridges, trees and tracks and I eventually got to Lubián. The albergue door was unlocked - as they all have been over the past few days and given it was 3.30 pm I went straight to get some food. I just scraped into the restaurant’s lunch time - ends at 4 pm. I couldn’t have waited till 8.30 pm and didn’t have the energy or brain power to buy food and cook. A lovely woman guided me to the Bar through the winding streets of this small village.
    Right now I am sitting in the Bar grabbing some Wifi.
    Then it’s back to the albergue to get ready for tomorrow.

    Buen Camino

    Reflection
    The monument at the pass at A Canda (1365 metres) was a powerful moment - an important moment - a place to stop and reflect. It has taken me 6 weeks to reach this point and in two weeks I will in Santiago.
    In my mind’s eye I could see Santiago ahead and after that the rest of my life - which at that moment seemed more terrifying and uncertain than walking the Camino forever.
    My mind very naturally reflected on the last 6 weeks and various Camino memories arose - the hard bits, the easy bits, the inspiring bits. In that moment I wanted to go back to Sevilla and do it all over again.
    This Camino feels like getting to know a stranger with all the ups and downs of that journey - only to discover that as you come to thoroughly know them, there is only love. And love. And love.
    My eyes keep getting wet and I am not sure why. Anticipation of the Camino goodbye or the love that the Camino elicits?

    Camino amigo talks about Galicia
    I had a buddy last night. A man from Madrid, Serge, who is riding his bike from Sevilla to Santiago in 15 days. That’s all the time he has. Phew! He wants to ride through Chile. The Camino is part of his preparation.
    Serge lived in the US for a year and is a flight attendant. We had a great chat. And he gave me the warmest farewell after coffee in the morning. I again saw that I am shy of goodbyes and letting people know how much they mean to me - something to let go.
    Serge’a father comes from Galicia and he told me a little about this district. It’s one of the poorest in Spain because it is so mountainous. Serge said his father left the village at age 14 to go to school and that in the 60’s people started to move to the cities. There are only two people living permanently in Serge’s father’s village. Many who have left villages have kept and renovated their traditional village homes and go there for the summer holidays. So the villages can be busy in summer but deserted in winter. This part of the Camino goes through tourist areas - hence the bigger hotels and Bars.

    PS. I am standing outside (catching some internet bars) as the sun sets and the moon rises. It’s clear and cold but so fresh and pleasant. I am a mountain person. Beautiful.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    A clear frosty morning
    A lovely church again seemingly in the middle of nowhereIs this the path or a small stream?Getting out of the valleys and into more open country - but the path is still very dampThe border to GaliciaNot far to go now 😂In Galicia they give you a raised section to help with wet and muddy pathsAnd now in completely different countryA GudinaThe tiny old church across the road was open

    Day 46 - A Gudiŋa - 26 km

    5 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Weather: 1 - 13 degrees and sunny. 🌞🌞🌞
    Clothes: Same as yesterday
    The walk - feels like three days in one - 7.30 am start.

    Let me start by saying that the sun has been shining all day and the sky is a wide bright blue.

    The morning - and what a morning.
    The route again consisted of tracks and trails that went through the most wonderful mountain scenery - but today had so many more ups and downs which were much steeper than yesterday - finishing in a long long uphill to the border of Galicia. I didn’t take many photos- after all how many beautiful sections can I post - but just concentrated on putting one foot in front of the other, carefully navigating rocks and streams, and climbing up, up and up. It was a real workout. Phew. 😮‍💨
    As I went higher the frost was still present quite late in the morning. I am so pleased with my clothing which continues to keep me snug and warm. At one stage this morning I was reminded of Tibet and walking around Mt Kailas. This morning was not that hard…. but still hard. And truth be told I was worried about how long this uphill stretch would be - would I be ok?
    The way was well marked but at times very rugged and along what looked like dry and not-so-dry stream beds; and overgrown with trees so that I could barely see the sky if I happened to look up. My eyes were mainly looking for where to put my next step.
    I kept wondering if I had in fact wandered off the path to some new unknown land. I guessed even if I was off track I would end up somewhere where there were people- but it felt more like I would be walking / climbing like this forever and end up in the middle of nowhere with no help around to be found. It was one of those stages that feels like it will never end …. and then it suddenly does.
    Thank goodness for my online map so I could regularly check that I was actually on the route. This section would be impossible in the rain and probably just miserable if the weather hadn’t been so good.
    Never have I been so happy to see the tiny sunny meadow at the top of a mountain that is the border to Galicia.
    The middle section
    And of course once in Galicia the way was very well marked and water obstacles had bridges, stepping stones or raised granite blocks creating a dry pathway.
    In Galicia the way markers tell you how far you are from Santiago - kilometres and metres. The marker at the border said I had 244.471 km to go.
    The pathways from now on were wide and clear and of course still beautiful with many streams and small rivers. In Galicia you hear the sound of running water most of the time and there are plenty of fountains so no need to carry lots of water. There were also a lot of fat cows in small meadows along the way.
    I finally got to Vilavella about 13 km from Lubián - which still felt like a long way to go. I stumbled across a very expensive and flash hotel/spa and drank two coffees. Did I mention that all the Bars till now had been closed - this was my first coffee of the day. ☕️☕️. Another reason it felt like a tough morning.
    I had food with me so had sustained myself throughout the morning. However there were no more food stops till Lubián. So I got some cheese and a tomato from the shop a few doors from the hotel and some bread from the bakery around the corner. Perfect for a picnic or two later in the afternoon.
    Last leg to A Gudina.
    Initially this section was along more picturesque and ancient tracks but soon left the lush country and climbed into rocky hills. I had quite a few stops for rest and food. The country was so different from this morning- here it was high up in open rocky country under an expanse of blue sky. Stunning in a new and different way.
    Eventually with a few more down and up hills I got to A Gudina. This is another town with interesting architecture and many stories to tell.
    I followed my notes and found the Albergue only to find it had moved - but not too far away. It’s located in some sort of centre next to the swimming pool and is completely new with excellent facilities. It’s warm and it even feels like there is under floor heating in the dorm. There is one other pilgrim- Spanish Juan. We met in Vilavella. I’m not sure which route he took - I just followed the arrows- but he arrived before me.
    Given that I had been eating on and off all day I didn’t actually need a meal. However I went to the local Bar for a vino and tapas and to use their Wifi. 🙏
    A pretty amazing day. It took me 10 hours to walk 26 km but I feel OK and nothing hurts - and the first 6.5 km were really slow and hard - took around 3 hours.
    Today I learnt that as long as I have plenty of breaks I can now successfully do longer distances and more challenging routes. Tomorrow is 18 km so I can have a more relaxed start to the day. I wouldn’t have been saying that at the start of the VDLP. 😅😂

    Buen Camino

    PS. I have found the people in Galicia friendly and Camino focussed. Today I crossed paths with two older ladies who greeted me and asked about my Camino. I explained I was from Australia, had started in Sevilla and was walking solo. They asked - what if I fall over somewhere and hurt myself. I pulled out my phone (indicating I could call for help) and they were happy with that. By the way this conversation was made up of a few Spanish words from me and context, gestures- along with words - from the ladies. It always amazes me how we humans can communicate even when we don’t really speak each other’s language. ❤️    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Morning view - which didn't change much the whole day
    There were a number of stone cairns indicating a pilgrim wayAn interesting creationA piggy enjoying a lie inFog fog everywhereThe fires went through hereAnd hereFinally blue sky. Would have been an amazing walk on a clear day176 km to Santiago 😀 😢Albergue with statue of Peliqueiro outside.

    Day 47 - Campobecerros - 21.1 km

    6 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Weather: 4 - 13 with fog and light rain all the morning
    Clothes: The same

    The walk - a grey day
    Mist and fog and very light drizzle for most of the walk. Which meant that there was not much to see so after my early morning spiritual music I put on an audio book, put my head down and just put one foot in front of the other.
    The clouds parted in the early afternoon and I got to my destination around 2.30 pm - a 6.5 hour walk.
    The knee is now fine but the old foot injury is a bit tender after some strenuous days - and today was about my maximum kms.
    Today we were in open mountain country with lots of ups and downs -around 1000 metres above sea level. There was also quite a lot of evidence of last summers fires here as well.
    Not much more to say. I haven’t had a coffee today so I think I am ready for a snooze. I forgot it was Sunday and nothing was open in the morning before we left - and there were only tiny three-house villages along the way. I am still walking with Juan although we walk at our own pace and meet up at the end of the day.
    It’s sort of good to have a ‘boring’ day in the fog - just relaxing and walking. But to be honest I felt grumpy and resistant- one of those days when I would rather be somewhere else.
    Campobecerros is a little town surrounded by hills - again reminds me of the towns in the Snowy Mountains. I am in the bar having my usual late lunch.
    The Albergue is warm, has blankets and new bathrooms. Really - what more could a girl want.
    This is the first time I have come across Peliqueiro, a traditional figure of the Laza Carnival - his statue is outside the albergue.

    Buen Camino

    PS. I slept for about 12 hours and I think this town might be a bit depressing. Or else I’m getting road weary. It’s been a while since I had a day off. Looking forward to Orense and the hot springs.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    The long and winding road
    The memorial to the three who died in the Civil War 😞Village buildings crumbling into natureThe original and the renovatedChurch graveyard full of flowers. It was Sunday yesterdayA cross to remind us we are on a pilgrimageA tiny Juan looking into the distant hillsOld roadside watering placeBeautiful bush track down to LazaA man and his sheep on the edge of town - a ram, some pregnant ewes and two lambs

    Day 48 - Laza - 14.1 km

    7 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Weather: 7 - 11 degrees, cloudy
    Clothes: The same but no rain jacket.

    Desayunos - Breakfast
    The temperature this morning was a surprising 7 degrees - Juan and I both said it was ‘hot’. 🥵 😂
    I think the Bar opened at 7.30 am just for us. Last night the hostess seemed to say that she expected us there at 7.30 am for breakfast. I was only 10 minutes late (Juan arrived 5 minutes after me) and a different lady was standing out the front seemingly looking for us - looking a bit tired and grumpy. And I didn’t blame her.
    Anyway, the coffee and toast was such a treat - particularly as there was no coffee at all yesterday and only coffee at lunch time the day before. I heartily thanked our hostess and she seemed to cheer up as she wished us a Buen Camino.
    I have read that coffee can be a pain killer and also that people who drink coffee are less depressed.
    All I can say is that my mood this morning was vastly improved over yesterday (all day) and the morning of the day before. Although I did sleep for about 12 hours yesterday afternoon and evening- my no coffee day.

    The walk - a very happy day
    The weather today has been perfect for walking. Cloudy and warm but still cool enough to stay refreshed while walking.
    The route today is about 2.5 km more uphill to the small village of Portocambo and then down the other side of the mountain to Laza. We also passed through a number of very small villages which have some completely tumbled down houses as well as some that have been lovingly renovated. In one tiny village there is a self serve stop for pilgrims (chair, table, snacks, coffee- though it was cold) and also a very upmarket Casa de Rural for those wanting a more comfortable mountain holiday.
    The trail was a mixture of bitumen and dirt side roads through mixed forest with lots of views over the near and far mountains. It was a beautiful day.
    The closer mountains are mainly pine plantations with small sections of mixed forest.
    The sounds today are - boots on gravel, boots on pine needles, boots on grass: walking poles clicking on the road: babbling rivers: a few bird songs: lots of silence.
    Right now I am about 3 km from Laza sitting on an outcropping of rock listening to the river and looking at the view over the valley to the mountains beyond (in between writing). It’s coming to midday and there is no need for me to hurry anywhere. I love these shorter days where I don’t feel I have to hurry to a destination and can stop as many times as I like for as long as I like.

    Laza is a lovely little town. There was a souvenir shop near where we picked up the keys for the albergue and I bought myself a souvenir scarf to replace the one I left behind - similar colours too.
    The Albergue is brand new - they haven’t completed putting in the bunk side lights. But everything else is great. There are keys for every door - and we even have wifi- unheard of in municipal albergues not so many years ago. I think the Galician government has spent some time and money upgrading their albergues. I imagine that the Camino Sanabres will become much more popular as the Francès is now so busy.
    Juan and I are having the usual late lunch together. He is probably going to do the 33 km stage tomorrow so this may be our last walking day together.
    It’s now later in the afternoon and I am sitting in the lounge area on a couch with my peppermint tea finishing this entry. Luxury.

    Buen Camino

    The body
    This morning I felt tired in my body and felt the need for more rest. The last few days have had some very steep climbs and challenging terrain. Doing a short day today has left me feeling refreshed and able to continue. I will have a rest day in Ourense in three days time - two shorter days and one long day. Then fun in the hot springs.

    Reflection on Campobecerros
    As I was walking this morning I came across a memorial for three people who had been shot by the fascists in 1936. I imagine that trauma can stay in a town for generations. Was that one of the reasons I felt a bit depressed there?    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Rainy reflections on the road
    Cow getting ready to go to the fieldLooking backThese rocks are carved by a well known sculptor and are everywhere - each one a bit differentThis tree impressed me.A nice stone pathway to help keep the feet a bit dryMore beautiful pathwaysThese pine trees were stunningMushroom weatherFirst sighting. This little house was used to store corn and grain safe from rats / mice

    Day 49 - Vilar de Barrio - 19.2 km

    8 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Weather: 11 - 14 degrees. Rain predicted
    Clothes: the usual - but it’s not as cold so will see how I end up.

    Rain, rain and rain
    The early morning started out with no rain - which made it easy to get to the Bar for coffee and toast.
    Then just out of town a drizzle (put on the rain poncho) and then for the first time real rain drops - then REAL rain - till midday.
    But what a blessing that there was no wind and it’s quite warm. My glasses got wet and foggy so at one point I think I just walked through all the puddles instead of around them. My feet, shoes and socks were soaked - sloshing around in my boots. Eventually I took my glasses off so I could see where I was stepping.
    And to top it all off most of the morning was a very steep uphill. Phew!!! But the scenery was beautiful - yet again. 😄
    I finally got to the village of Albergueria where there’s an amazing Bar and Albergue in an old renovated building. The Bar is decorated with Camino shells with the names of the pilgrims that have passed through.
    Hot chocolate and my first proper empanada, and I realised I could continue on to Vilar de Barrio. There were a couple of younger men stopping there to dry out as well.
    I had given myself permission to stop here if needed but apart from being wet around the legs and feet, and a bit damp in the body (my poncho wasn’t as waterproof as I would have hoped in the heavy rain) and a bit crampy in one shoulder, I felt fine and with enough energy to do the final 7 km - down hill!
    Another bonus was that rain had stopped and it looked like it was finished for the day. If it has still been raining I definitely would have stopped.
    The last part of the walk was as beautiful as the first and it seemed no time at all before I reached my destination.
    I had lunch (salmon with lovely baked veges which was a bit unusual) before finding the albergue and shared the washing machine with three French people who arrived just as I was putting some washing on.
    Later one French man was doing some yoga in the afternoon which spurred me on to join him. I can’t remember when I last did some stretches.
    The municipal Albergues in Galicia are pretty luxurious: brand new, solid bunks, warm, washing machines and dryers, kitchen. The only thing they don’t have is blankets so a sleeping bag is needed.
    I finished the day having a drink with the French trio while they ate their dinner. They went to a little cafe run by an ‘old lady’. It was like being in her home kitchen - and the food was plain but excellent.
    Tomorrow is a short day so absolutely no hurrying for any part of the day.

    Buen Camino.

    P.S. Last night the Taiwanese pilgrim at the albergue roasted some chestnuts she had collected along the way. They were delicious and the four of us - her friend Juan and my friend Juan and me - had a lovely night. The other two spoke English and my Juan got to have a long Spanish conversation with the other Juan rather than struggling with me in English.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    On the road again
    Some beautiful old grain storage housesMary was with me today1An abundance of veges and flowersRenovated communal laundryThe agricultural plainMoss covered stones and dried fernsThis was the landscape for most of the day1A very friendly cow

    Day 50 - Xunqueira - 15 km

    9 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Weather: 8 - 14 degrees and predicted rain ☔️

    But it didn’t rain 🙏🙏🌈

    Today the walk is around the edge of what is called an ‘agricultural plain’. It’s green and flat with open green fields and copses of mainly Birch trees. From the look of the Birch groves I think the trees are grown and harvested for fuel. I thought I would be walking across this plain but the route is more around the edge in the foothills. So plenty of beautiful pathways and plenty of short ascents and descents.
    At a village early in the morning there was a sign to an archeological site of a castle. I walked up the short steep road and found a picnic site overlooking the whole valley. Definitely the best place for a castle but any remains are probably still beneath the soil.
    There is definitely evidence of a milder wetter climate - more small villages to pass through, and many more vegetable and flower gardens in and around the villages.
    In one village there were a lot of renovated corn storage ‘houses’. These little houses are on legs to keep the rats away from the grain.
    And I saw my first communal laundry - lavadera - beautifully restored. When I walked in Portugal we actually saw a couple of local women using their communal laundry. The women said they felt famous around the world because all the pilgrims took photos of them.
    The rest of the walk was along old roads and tracks through that beautiful Galician mixed forest. I completely took my time and stopped many times to just be with the landscape.
    I arrived at my destination at 1.30 pm. The Albergue is the first building as you enter the village (and well sign posted). As usual the door is open. I am so grateful to the Galician government for providing these amazing Refugios.
    Soon after I arrived two women arrived - one was Luna, the Korean woman from a couple of weeks ago, with a new friend, a German woman who lived in Spain for 15 years and is married to a Spanish man. It’s so funny when people who I think are ahead of me suddenly turn up again.
    When I went to look for lunch it looked like this small village has an early siesta - but I eventually found somewhere open for a vino and empanada. That kept me going for a while.
    Later I went to the shop with the ‘girls’ and on the way back saw the church was open. There were two women reciting prayers. It was good to sit and listen. At first I felt restless and like I didn’t belong but after a while something settled and became quiet. When they were done they went out another door and I followed into the church courtyard. I found them in a room where they put a stamp in my Credential. I walked back to the albergue feeling a bit different - somehow strengthened and more myself at the same time. A lovely ending to the day.

    Buen Camino

    PS: It was really hard choosing photos for today. Too many interesting and beautiful sites.

    Reflection on connection
    I love to stop often and for longer periods to actually connect with the bit of country I am standing on - to say hello to the landscape, the trees and bushes and grass; to allow the landscape to enter my being.
    On the days I hurry on (distance, weather, my frame of mind) I don’t feel as good - like I’ve missed something important, ignored an important relationship.
    The three French people from yesterday said that they walk longer distances because they get bored hanging around small villages. That made sense yesterday - but today I realised I could take a very long time not going very far and have an incredibly interesting time. 😂
    We are all different.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Morning greeting. Just waning moon over the church I was blessed to be in last night.
    Some beautiful tracks to startMainly road walking todayGreen fields and blue grey skyNot so friendly ponyMorning break - best Tinto de Verano and TortillaMary is with me againLooking down to OurenseLuna and DanniA huge and impressive cathedral in the old town

    Day 51 - Ourense - 23.4 km

    10 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Weather: 10 - 18 degrees. Some cloud.
    Clothes: short sleeve merino, light wind fleece and rain jacket to start until it warms up. I have been walking in shorts since the rain the other day.

    The morning
    Since my two caffeine free mornings l am a little more anxious about my morning coffee. Last night I asked the rather depressed looking Bar host if they were open in the morning. He said 7.15 am - which sounded like a strange time and I wondered if I understood him correctly. Anyway this morning I made my way to the Bar in hope and fear. 😂. Yes it was open!
    It looks like the host is not well, and just sitting on a stool is a great difficulty for him. I forgave him any grumpiness and sent as much love and as many blessings as I could. May he regain good health and the subsequent happiness that brings.
    While one coffee was good I believe today is a two coffee day and I knew there were plenty of stops between here and Ourense. The body is telling me it needs a rest day so I have booked two nights in Ourense before walking the 22 km to Cea.
    I had my second coffee in the first village I passed. ☕️
    It was so peaceful sitting outside looking at the trees and hills and sky. I could have sat there for a long time.

    The day
    Another day in lovely Galicia - a few paths and tracks and then mainly along a minor road but still beautiful.
    The sky is blue with clouds. The weather pleasantly cool. The road not too busy. Lots of variety - shady lanes - villages - then the hills to one side.
    The day has turned into a bit of a Bar crawl - first stop was for coffee - second stop (still in the morning) Tinto de Verano with a tapas of the best tortilla I have had. The egg still soft but cooked around the yummy potatoes. When I said to the host that it was too early for wine he said a definite No! And remembering all the guys who have a shot of spirit with their morning coffee I thought - When in Spain ….
    And the drink - lots of ice, a little wine and tonic water with a couple of spritzed lemon peels. Perfect. The best.
    I think all discipline has left the building. I can see a completely indulgent day ahead and a day off tomorrow, so no pressure. Double perfect.
    As I was sitting with my vino I saw another pilgrim, head down seemingly scurrying by. I was so happy I have the time and inclination to sit and dream at least for some of the time.
    Third stop in another village for a decaf.
    The walk into Ourense is a long one through the outskirts - at first just countryside with houses, more like an extended village- then an industrial area - then what would have been a small separate village in the past (very cute) but has now been enveloped by Ourense - and then through what is a regular city scape until we get to the old town.
    I stopped at 2 pm for lunch in an ordinary Bar / Restaurant. I needed the break before I did what I thought was the last hour to my hostel. The meal was delicious. The food and beverages today have been the best so far.
    I wasn’t that far away after all and soon came to Hostel Grelo which is great. The owner - named Santiago - speaks English. He did my laundry for the usual price(€5 wash and dry), told me how to get to the hot springs tomorrow, and told me about the Chestnut Fiesta tomorrow with lots happening in the old town and a concert in the evening. I had seen posters for this event along the way - a great day to be in Ourense.
    After settling into the Hostel I went for a walk in the old town. It seems to be quite different in character and energy to anything before.
    It’s great to know I don’t have to get ready to walk tomorrow - just take the day as it comes.

    Buen Camino

    The light in Spain
    The autumn light in the north of Spain is very gentle and lovely. The mornings and evenings seem to always have a pink hue and the days are golden - when it’s not foggy or rainy. All quite extraordinary and a daily delight.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Today is the Magosta festival - celebration of chestnuts
    The bagpipers getting ready at the cathedralThe ladies of the choir in what I take to be traditional dressThe beautiful Minho RiverThe free public thermal poolSunset over OurenseSingers and bagpipersTraditional characters come to lifeOur chestnut vendor - sorry you can't see the little train where the roasting occursI took this pick of the chestnut man the night before

    Day 52 - A Day in Ourense-Magosto Fiesta

    11 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Weather: 9 - 21 and sunny 🌞
    Feels like I have had a short winter and am back in Spring. 🙏🙏🙏

    The unfolding of an interesting day.
    At breakfast I started having a conversation with my roommate, Rebecca - although I didn’t ask her name till much later. Rebecca was having a day and night In Ourense before going to a yoga weekend in a nearby town. We chatted for a long time and the outcome was that we had a lovely day together.
    The Cathedral
    We started to head for the Tourist Information Centre but got sidetracked by the cathedral which was open and getting ready for a service associated with today’s Chestnut Fiesta. We looked and sat for quite a while - it was beautiful with good energy - and then continued on - but after getting all the info at the Tourist Centre we somehow ended up back at the cathedral where the service was about to begin.
    Of course now we stayed for the religious celebrations. The cathedral was full with lots of VIP types in the front rows. The ceremonies began with a procession of Galician bagpipers followed by men in white carrying a sacred statue. There was beautiful singing - choir and solo. It was an uplifting and interesting experience and in some ways reminded me of India where they also parade statues of great beings and sing and chant.
    We left when the speeches started because I couldn’t understand any of what they said.
    The service left us with a calm and uplifted feeling ready for the next event.

    Next the thermal pools
    By that time Rebecca had decided she wanted to stay in Ourense a bit longer than planned and wanted to revisit the thermal pools. She had been yesterday. So we hopped in her car and off we went. I felt very grateful because otherwise it would mean me deciphering the public transport or doing the 60 minute walk.
    We went to the ‘private’ pool - Outariz Thermal Station - which has a Japanese theme: lots of pools of different temperatures, pools with spa jets, cold pools to alternate with the hot, gentle music playing and notices encouraging silence and reflection. It took a while for me to relax into the experience but when I did it was blissful. I only got out when the body said that was enough for one day. If I lived in Ourense the ‘terma’ would be a regular event. For €5.70 you get a locker and two hours of bliss. Sorry no photos allowed. But I did take one of the public pool.
    https://www.turismodeourense.gal/en/recurso/est…

    The food expo came next
    This was a bit out of town - where we hoped to get something to eat. A bit of a disappointment in that the three course meals were between €30 and €60 but with pretty incredible menus. We had a look around and snacked on the free food. From what she shared, Rebecca seemed to be a bit of a foodie. She knew what foods were specialities in which areas and towns. Somehow I felt guilty taking the free food when I was never going to buy anything. But it was interesting to see the focus on good food in Galicia - and it shows in the meals I have had so far.
    Rebecca had a phone meeting so I had time to do a bit of journaling before we headed back to town.

    The Magosta Fiesta
    At 6 pm there was a concert and free roasted chestnuts in the Plaza Major. We got there a little before 6 and with Rebecca’s bold youth we quietly jumped the already huge queue to get our cone of chestnuts. She had to head off quickly and I had come all the way from Australia so I didn’t feel too bad about our bold move. The Spanish wait very patiently and when I left around 6.45 there was a queue around the corner and up the street.
    There was all sorts of local music and people dressed up as well-known traditional characters- with giant heads. It was great fun.
    The chestnuts were a bit of a disappointment - not so fresh - not as good as the ones the Korean girl roasted a few night ago. Nevertheless I had participated in the Magosta Fiestal and was very happy that I had participated in the free chestnut experience and heard some of the local music.
    However … on the way back to the hostel I chomped a chestnut on my sensitive tooth. It was very painful and I became grumpy and impatient with every one and everything. I remembered a saying of one of my teachers - trying to get pleasure from the world brings pounds of pain. Even though I had a lovely day I was reminded that all joy and happiness resides within.

    Buen Camino

    PS: After a good sleep, meditation and reflection, the next morning looked bright and cheerful again.

    Hostel Grelo
    Both the hospitalaros here speak English which is such a bonus for us Spanish deficient pilgrims. 😄
    The building is just on the edge of the old town and has three dorms. I think there are 6 of us here and spread out through the dorms so we are not in top of each other. There is a kitchen and lounge area. For €15 you get sheets, blankets (although I still used my sleeping bag/blanket as their blankets are a bit thin) and a towel and breakfast included. In Spain that is always toast or light pastry and coffee/ teas etc. because most people have eaten a big meal at 8.30 pm or later.    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    1Last 103 km
    1The most abundant and varied fruit and vege shop to dateAn encouraging peregrinoLooking back over cloud covered OurenseThis village had lots of restored historic buildingsRebecca told me these enclosed verandahs are common in GaliciaBeautiful tracks as usualThe boys playing cards in the bar where they fed meCommunal outdoor laundry in useTonights Albergue in an old building with corn store out the front.

    Day 53 - Cea - 25 km

    12 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Weather: 7 - 22 and sunny
    Clothes: short sleeve merino top, lightweight fleece, rain jacket, trek pants. The jacket and fleece came off as the day progressed.

    The day
    A cup of tea with breakfast at the hostel and a coffee soon after in a Bar got me going for the walk out of Ourense and the long slow climb out of the valley.
    Today was mainly along village roads and tracks with plenty of variety and interest. I stopped often and snacked on food in my pack. A lovely warm and sunny day.
    I stopped for another ‘poco’ coffee at the half way point but it seemed too early for lunch. Then there were villages but no Bars for a long time till I finally struggled into the Bar at Biduedo - not that far from Cea. I asked for food and was offered some cold beef and chips - I was so hungry that it all tasted most delicious. Yum!! And gave me the energy for the last few kms.
    The Albergue is in a quaint old building at the start of the town. Time for a shower and trip to the shop for a bit of dinner and snacks for tomorrow.

    Reflection
    I notice today as the km countdown continues - only some 80 km to go - a feeling of joy and happiness arose. I think I better understand the feelings of sadness that have been with me over the past week or so - perhaps a normal grieving process about many things including the end of this Camino.
    Walking Camino gives you the opportunity to reflect on and let go of many known and unknown burdens - some feather light and some much heavier.
    These past few days I have often had the feeling that I have left something behind - and it feels like I have.
    I am looking forward to discovering what these last days have in store for me.

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Greeted by these two literally stuffed people at breakfast this morning 🤣😂
    My path today was covered in Autumn leavesCamino shell of encouragementGiant's stepsSometimes the path looked more like a creekSmall green fields at the top of the hillsIts hard to believe I came from way behind those distant blue mountains.And what will I find on the road ahead ....First sighting of the MonasteryLounge area in the Albergue 💕💕💕

    Day 54 - Oseira & The Monastery - 9.4 km

    13 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Weather: 8 - 18. Rain in the afternoon
    Clothes: Same as yesterday

    Breakfast
    I have definitely become the older more self indulgent pilgrim. While others are saving money and having breakfast at the albergue, I have found out what time the local Bars are open so I can sit quietly and have my morning coffee and toast (with banana).
    This morning I was in what can only be called a cute and funky cafe with two (literally) stuffed people at the door. I keep thinking they are real. My grandé coffee is huge and as well as toast I got two pieces of the best yummy cake.
    With only 8.5 km to walk this morning I started slow and relaxed. I notice that while the 20+ km days are totally doable now, they do take it out of me and the body wants to take it easy the next day.

    The walk
    What can I say? Another beautiful sunny morning in beautiful Galicia. Walking along forest pathways covered in autumn leaves, walking up what seem like small creeks at times (What happens in the rain?) past villages and up to the tops of the hills which give a more open and rocky outlook.
    I looked back and saw distant high mountains - hard to believe I came from way over the other side of these.
    And ahead the road cresting a hill to the unknown - but these days a happily anticipated other side.
    I stopped for a hot chocolate at the 6 km mark and had a lovely stroll into Oseira.

    The destination
    The first view of the monastery was impressive - it just appeared from behind the trees, huge and significant.
    The albergue is stunning - completed this year and imbued with the peace of the monastery and this little town in general. The design of the albergue is superb - spacious, elegant, warm and welcoming. Apart from the bunk beds it could be a simple boutique hotel.
    So much has changed since my first Camino in 2007. Then I had a very tiny mobile phone for texts and calls, a guide book, unreliable showers, only occasional washing machines, and virtually completely reliance on the yellow arrows to find the way.

    The afternoon
    I arrived around 11.30 am so it’s virtually another day off. But not as busy as my day on Ourense 😮‍💨
    Time for self care, grooming, washing and drying, relaxing, snoozing, eating, until we can tour the monastery at 4.00 pm.
    Lunch at the local cafe - expensive but I understand in this tiny town it would be - and I am told the chef is really good.
    I ordered a cod fish omelette- it sounds better in Spanish - Tortilla Bacalou. The chef asked if I want it medium or rare. I remembered that lovely soft scrambled egg and tortilla I had a few days ago. I told him to choose - he was the chef. The omelette was huge and filling and delicious. Enough to set me up for my afternoon nap.

    I’ll put the actual Monastery tour in a separate post.

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    The Virgin of the Milk
    The church- the monastery is on the right hidden by the treeThe main cloister planted with lavenderMany areas were originally brightly painted. There are only a few of these areas leftThe Virgin of the Milk at the front alterThese columns were made to resemble palm trees. I was reminded of GoudiA long walk down the cloisterThis ceiling was originally painted with the images of saints. Can you see the Camino shells?An example of the original Farmacia area

    Monastery Santa Maria la Real de Oseira

    13 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The Santa Maria la Real de Oseira Monastery has a long history. One of the oldest parts of the complex is the Church which is a pilgrimage church. It has a statue of Mary breastfeeding the baby Jesus. While there are other images of the ‘Virgin of the Milk’ this is one of the oldest. The other I have seen was in the convent at Zamora.
    The monks here have a history of wine and spirit making as well as essential oils and skin care products. Needless to say some purchases were made but not of the alcoholic type. 🙃
    In the late afternoon we had a tour of the church and monastery - which was all in Spanish. I had a explanatory sheet in English which was enough.
    At 6.30 pm we went to Vespers. It was my first time.
    There was a life size Jesus on the cross at the front of the small chapel. My relationship with that image has changed radically since I went to the exhibition in Zamora. I don’t think I have a name for the feeling I get from that image now - so I won’t try in this short narrative.
    However half way through Vespers the feeling changed to a sense of joy and liberation. As Vespers continued I felt more calm and relaxed.
    One priest said some prayers which were a blessing for pilgrims. 🙏
    There was an item on the alter that looked like a sun on a stand. Towards the end one priest went to a small decorated cupboard at the back and took out a small gold container. Out of that container he took what looked like a white circle and put it in the centre of the ‘sun’ thing. Incense was lit and waved at the ‘sun’. Then the ‘sun’ was made to face everyone in turn. It felt like it was some sort of channel or lens for grace and it certainly gave me a particular and quite powerful sensation. Then there was a short meditation. Of course the monks sat or kneeled perfectly still 😇 while the ‘audience’ rustled and shuffled pretty constantly. 😂
    A very lovely experience that left me indrawn, quiet and relaxed. And with a feeling that all is well.
    A perfect way to end a pretty perfect day.

    Edit: I have since found out that this ceremony is called “Eucharist Adoration” and the ‘sun’ thing is called a monstrance. It appears this ceremony is designed to give one the ‘darshan’ of Christ, and that certainly seems to be what happened for me. Wow!

    https://catholicworldmission.org/what-is-a-mons…    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    1Our doggy companion on a very foggy morning
    An interesting lizard - I saw it in the dark. And in the afternoon I saw a few squished on the trailBack in dwarf countryBig friendly cowThe first road sign to SantiagoIn more open countryThe road to Hobbit TownEncouraging artworkMany small villages and settlementsEvery village and town has a church

    Day 55 - A Laxa - 31.6 km

    14 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Weather: 6 - 13 degrees. Rain predicted.
    Clothes: Same as yesterday

    Celebration 🎉🎉🙏🌞😄😇🥰😮‍💨🌈💕
    I walked 31 km today with my pack - because there was no accommodation between last night and A Laxe - and with one long and difficult climb this morning. And I’m still standing.

    Inner preparation
    After last nights Vespers it took me a long time to get to sleep and I wondered how the day would go. I gave my self permission to get a taxi if needed but as I left this morning it felt like the body would/ could do this long day. I estimated 10 hours which would give me time for intermittent short breaks and a long lunch break.

    The walk
    I started of with my French companion in the dark (7.30 am) on what turned out to be an extended climb along a rocky and steep water course. I realise now that this could be called a slightly technical climb as I had to constantly look at where I was putting my feet and plan ahead to find the most dry and easiest way up. I have walked (climbed) so many of these now that I sort of know the ropes - or rocks - as it were.
    However this was a long climb in the dark and needed lots of concentration, planning and quick reactions. It was physically and mentally demanding - and tiring. I remembered other times when I wondered if these sorts of challenges would ever end. Now when that thought arose I knew it was pretty silly - this would end - and just kept going. My legs were a bit wobbly towards the final ascent but with a few rests I got to the top.
    We had a wonderful companion for the first 6 km. The huge black dog that belonged to the monastery walked with us. My French amigo said she often had dog companions. She walked on faster than me and told me later that when she got to a particular small village the dog sat and looked at her to see that she was continuing in the correct direction and then turned and headed for home.
    The rest of the day was relatively easy. A few ups but mainly down - and again through the lovely Galician country side.
    The landscape became more open as the day progressed with more villages and settlements along the way. And more cows.
    I had a number of short stops for breakfast, snacks, more coffee and a full lunch at 3 pm.
    I arrived at the albergue at 5.30 pm. My 10 hour estimate was correct. For me eating the right sort of food at the right time is so important. I finished the day tired, but after a shower and a peppermint tea I feel fine. Tomorrow is a short day to give the body time to recover.
    Interestingly I feel like I’m waking up from a long (Camino) dream refreshed and curious about what lies ahead. 🙃🙂😇

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    Each area I pass through has different trees and different delights
    Only 48.9 km to go and it looks like its going to be a beautiful sunny morning 🌞The new road bridge. Can you see the car?The older rail bridge. Have seen the very fast train a number of times over the weeks but no picsRail bridge- stunning archesPonte TaboadaNot sure what this is. Looks like a carved out rock?Road or minor creek - that is the questionThis rock has old carved words but I don't know what they sayThe sun came out and sparkled on the wet foliage

    Day 56 - Silleda - 9 km

    15 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Weather: 9 - 13 degrees; with 70% rain predicted all day
    Clothes: The same but traded short sleeves for long sleeve merino top. Feeling a bit cold and tired today. Changed into short sleeve top as it got warm during the morning.

    The morning
    The night was a bit disrupted with the sound of torrential rain and banging barn doors - and it was still raining when I woke. Oops not good - I was very happy I was only walking 9.5 km today. Then I looked up the weather forecast and it said no rain between 8.30 am and 1.00 pm. Just the window I need. Gratitude abounds 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
    When I got up I noticed that the body was tired and feet a bit sore - just from so many k’s - no blisters or other issues.
    There are three Spanish men here today (and yesterday) with voices that seem to echo and project even when they are talking normally. They were chatting in the kitchen last night and woke me just before 10 pm. It took a long time to get back to sleep so with two nights of short sleep I am also sleepy tired.
    So again happy I am doing a short day today. 💜😀

    The day of bridges
    Apart from the continuing beauty of Galicia this has been a day of bridges - a magnificent new road bridge, an older but still magnificent rail bridge and Ponte Taboada over the river La Deza.
    The Ponte Taboada was a part of the old Roman route north. It has been, and still is part of the pilgrimage route to Santiago. It was rebuilt in the 10th century and has had subsequent renovations.
    The old road and the bridge itself were a delight.
    The sun came out completely as I crossed over the bridge and the sky became blue. Blessings abound.
    I got to Silleda around 11.30 am, had a hot chocolate and went to Albergue Santa Olaia. It’s part of a school and I can hear the kids at play and in class. I have a twin room to myself so I will be able to rest up as much as I want. I think I was the only one in the albergue. It was a bit cold and vast but I had a heater in my room, plenty of blankets and hot showers. What more could I want.
    I’ve been in Spain for so long now that things are beginning to look and feel normal - just in a different language. I will probably have a bit of culture shock when I get home.
    It’s only 40 km to Santiago.

    Burn Camino    Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés

    Fungi of Galicia

    15 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    I saw a lot of different mushrooms over the past couple of weeks. I thought the fungi lovers might enjoy seeing a few.
    Also a nod to my Latvian heritage where mushrooming is a national pastime - even the president goes mushrooming.Läs mer

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    A misty rainy start to the day - that continued all day
    Galicia has lots of lovely restored buildings and homes. New homes are often buit in the old styleTimber harvestingBack roadsEucalyptus plantationThere was some blue sky above me at one pointMessage in a tunnelPicturesque roadsStill a beautiful dayMy destination

    Day 57 - Ponte Ulla - 20.8 km

    16 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Weather: 10 - 15 degrees: rain predicted all day.
    Clothes: the same - it’s not that cold

    Wet weather blues
    I had a pretty good night’s sleep last night (but not long enough) in my solo room and softer bed. The municipal albergue beds can be extraordinarily firm, even for me.
    But I woke up feeling blue because of the weather - specifically rain.

    Things are rarely as they seem.
    As it turned out the rain was fine and misty and the temperature was warm. It wasn’t so bad.
    I planned to stop at Dornella and arrived at midday. However the hospitalaro tried to convinced me to do another 8 km to Ponte Ulla. He is having some problems with the heater in the dorm and the temporary gas heater has to be turned off at 9.00 pm. And there is no food at all in Dornella. Dinner is served at the albergue at 8.00 pm - too late for me. It is a lovely albergue in a quiet rural setting but after a rest and further chat I decided to go on.

    Today was a day of small villages, timber plantations and timber harvesting, and again country lanes.
    I got to Ponte Ulla around 3.00 pm and had a rich and filling lentil soup before searching out the albergue.
    I even thought about walking another 4 km to O Outeiro but then decided against it. It’s 20 km to Santiago so it seems I will be there tomorrow - 8 weeks and 2 days.
    The albergue here is fine - a Bar / Restaurant downstairs that opens at 7.00 am. The only down side is my solo room has no window. ☹️☹️☹️ A reminder of my first hostel in Sevilla but this one is half the price.
    However the bed is soft with blankets and sheets and there is a heater that works. I lay down as soon as I got in and fell asleep for an hour. A relaxing and restful evening ahead.

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  • Rita FlowerResenärCamino Sanabrés
    A wet and rainy start to the day
    But the sky did try to clearAh rain againTimber truck doing some manoeuvresThe sound of chain sawsAnd more vehicles to take away the timberLess than 4 km to go - 3.940 to be exactFirst sighting - the spires of the Cathedral2Arrived1With my Camino Angel and our two bicycling friends

    Day 58 - Santiago - 22.4 km

    17 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Weather: 9 - 15 degrees, another rainy day
    Clothes: The same. It seems that when it was really cold there was virtually no rain and now there is rain it’s not so cold. 🙏.

    The walk
    An early 7.30 am start in the dark. The mind and feelings somewhat wondering and worrying about the usual things.
    I met an Austrian pilgrim who was convinced it would rain. My weather forecast said not. But it did pour down for about an hour or maybe two - I hope he was satisfied. 😂
    For me it cleared up and alternated between clear and light rain. All OK by me and it was warm walking so double OK.
    The countryside was the usual villages, country lanes and back roads. There was more timber harvesting today. Life goes on regardless of how many pilgrims trudge past.
    Arrived at Santiago at 1.30 pm. A lovely last day of Via de la Plata / Sanabres

    Santiago reflections
    Arriving today seems inevitable. I’m not talking about arriving at Santiago. That was always going to happen aside from an unforeseen event.
    But today - 17 November - as being that day, feels inevitable; like no matter what my plans might have been this was always going to be the day. I have tried to ‘stretch out’ the last stages given my flight to Australia isn’t till the end of the month.
    However today is the day. And it has been perfect.
    On my first Camino (Frances) I think I was just in a daze coming into Santiago. On my second Camino I came in from Portugal at dawn when the whole city was still and golden - a wonderful experience - I wanted the walk in to last forever.
    This time I felt like I was in a river of energy that carried me along- no more stops, no more delays, keep going, keep moving. Today was definitely the day.
    As I came through the outskirts and then into the old city the mind was quiet. I really didn’t know what to expect this time and was wondering how it would be. I haven’t had any big insights or spiritual experiences in this Camino. Just me walking one day at a time.
    As I came closer to the cathedral I felt a sweet, golden and peaceful feeling. It was subtle and gentle and words can’t really describe it. But it was there and different from anything that came before in the last 8 weeks.
    Of course another Camino Angel was there to greet me. Lovely young French/Spanish Agnes, who has been at the same albergues for the past week, was also walking in today. When I first saw her in Oseira I was sure I had met her before - on a Camino: but no.
    Today we met at a cafe and then parted. Then as I arrived at the cathedral there she was. Photos were taken and at her initiative we went for our Compostellas. Agnes knew exactly where to go, having walked many Camino’s. She also found the best value hostel close to the Cathedral.
    And she organised to go to the 7.30 pm mass where the countries that the pilgrims come from are announced. One peregrina from Australia. 😄😄😄

    I’ve booked two nights at the hostel and will then start for Muxia. I think I am looking forward to that. My weather anxieties seem to be in check now.

    Look out for the next chapter.

    PS - added a year later
    Agnes, the bicycle guys and another young man and I all went for drinks in the evening at Agnes’s invitation. I was only going to come for a short while but we all ended up drinking and talking (did we eat?) till after midnight. I discovered that all my fears about being able to do the Via had nothing to do with my age - the young man (whose name I have forgotten) had all the same fears too.
    Needless to say I felt a bit seedy the next day.

    Buen Camino    Läs mer

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