Reset search
Camino SanabrésCamino Sanabrés
SatelliteEdit route

Camino Sanabrés

October - November 2022
Extension of Via de la Plata Read more
  • 26footprints
  • 1countries
  • 22days
  • 260photos
  • 0videos
  • 566kilometers
Follow Calendar Share Bucket list
Date ascending
  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 1

    Day 37 - Tábara - 25.1 km

    October 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 1 on Camino Sanabrés

    Weather: 13 - 22 degrees. Light cloud. No rain.
    Clothes: short sleeve merino shirt, light wind fleece, trekking pants, pressure socks which work well.

    Started just before 7 am with a fellow Pilgrim and passed through the lightly forested area in the dark. I could see the trees in either side with my head lamp. I was glad to have an amigo ahead of me giving me a sense of confidence and safety.
    It’s tricky walking with just that small pool of light. It’s hard to tell up hill or down hill, except by the effort required going up, and a sense of instability going down. About an hour in I came to a steep down hill. In the dark it looked like the road just disappeared. I started down with what I thought was care. I couldn’t see how long the down hill section was - and lo and behold - I slipped and landed ‘softly’ on my left knee. Instead of chiding myself I congratulated myself on a great save - no injuries, not even a scratch or graze. I progressed with even more care.
    One of the major things about walking with others is to not hurry to their pace - a real discipline - but to let them move ahead if they are faster than you. One of the reasons I slipped was that the mind was slightly ahead of my feet and I was hurrying a little to keep up with my fellow pilgrim.
    The highlight of the day came soon after - a bridge spanning a beautiful lake, and then a tricky and interesting walk along the other side of the lake. I got there at first light and saw the headlamps of the two guys ahead of me on the other side of the lake. Without that encouragement I would have been very wary about that left turn off the sealed road and into what looked like a very precarious or non existent track. Thank goodness for the yellow arrows that kept me going over seemingly impassable rocky outcrops. It was a most beautiful walk, tracking along the side of the lake . There were many areas of up turned soil which I think was from wild pigs; but mainly trees, rocks and tiny meadows.
    After a steep climb to the top of the hill/ mountain there was a bit of a meadow walk and then on to the next plain/meseta - this time with crops of corn and lucerne.
    Right now it is 12.30 pm and I am sitting in the first bar since we left, drinking a Vino Tinto with sparkling mineral water and eating a tapas of mussels. Yum! Then on to the last 7.1 km to Tábara.
    Later
    Oh, that was a hard 7 km. But slow and steady with a few breaks got me to Tábara and the albergue on the far side of town. They offer dinner at 8 pm and breakfast at 7 am.
    The afternoon is warm and breezy so I took advantage and washed some clothes after my lovely hot shower. I must say the facilities in the albergues have been excellent - and either €5 or €6 or by donation.
    Now I am back down at the bar having an ensalata mixta (iceberg lettuce, sardines this time, eggs and lots of roasted capsicum) and a vino so I can last till dinner. The Bar was really nice to do food at 4.00 pm when the cook was just about to finish. 🙏🙏🙏
    Today was an extraordinarily interesting day with a bit of a slog at the end. I will try and plan a shorter day for tomorrow.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 2

    Day 38 - Santa Marta - 22.8 km

    October 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Weather: Temp: 14 - 21 degrees. Light rain late morning and late afternoon.
    Clothes: short sleeve merino top, light fleece, trekking pants.

    The walk
    This was described as a relatively easy walk in terms of terrain, through forested hills. Instead it has been a rather sad day walking through country devastated by last summers fires - mile after mile - for the whole walk.
    At one point one side of the road was completely burnt and black and the other side green with some trees. I stopped to take it all in. The burnt side was silent; it felt dead. I could hear bird song in the distance - but all coming from the green side of the road.
    Even worse, the trees in Spain will not recover the way the eucalyptuses do. I think there were great swathes of hills already completely cleared for replanting.
    At one point I thought the soil had changed colour from red and yellow to black. Then I saw the black was from the fires. So sad.
    In the evening I went to the Santa Marta church which is a unique and important Romanesque Church built in the 12th - 13th Centuries and being the location for the first Camino Pilgrim statue - a small statue, flanking one of the doors.
    There is an area at the back of the church that you pass through to get into the nave. This area seemed filled with energy and I wondered if a saint was buried there. It turns out that it is the repository for a number of important relics. I guess these ones were for real because the relic box definitely gave out a lovely strong and constant vibration. I wonder if I will feel anything this time in Santiago.

    Food
    The stopping point for tonight is a bit confusing regarding food. I thought there was a restaurant 1 km before my final destination but with the sore knee I missed it. But I did stop at the shop for some extra supplies.
    In the bar near the albergue I got a a Jamon and cheese bocadilla at 3.30 pm. I thought maybe I would have to fill up on wine 😂😂😂
    Then when I was at the church I prayed to be nourished by divine light seeing I hadn’t eaten my usual hearty meal. It must have worked at least a bit because dinner of fruit, yogurt and nuts was enough. 🙏🙏🙏

    Update in the body
    Remember that ‘soft’ fall I had the other day. Well I didn’t notice that I had grazed/ bumped the side of my left knee. Today it started to really hurt. So I stopped, used the Voltarin cream and popped on the elastic bandage. Thank goodness I was only a couple of K’s from the next town. Right now I am in the bar with my vino, some tapas and resting my leg in a chair. I will sit here for a while and see how it goes.
    On the bright side the hills of today were so much easier than a few weeks ago - which is great as we get into the more hilly country.

    Camino magic.
    Last night I ate a small amount of the pilgrim meal at 8 pm. A slight headache had started in the afternoon/ evening and I woke with the same headache, plus a stuffed up nose and scratchy eyes.
    Note to self: Do not eat that late again - not even a small amount! Not a good start to the day.
    I also woke with the feeling of being an incompetent and vulnerable child - that I was incapable of doing anything - maybe like an abandoned 5 year old. I have had this feeling a few times on Camino but instead of turning away, this time I acknowledged and welcomed the feeling with the understanding that this is not who I really am.
    So with all that I got dressed and went to breakfast. The coffee was well appreciated and there was music playing on the CD player. There was a choir singing something very familiar and I think connected to the Christian church. It was incredibly beautiful; the voices touched something deep and wonderful inside, and tears came. I let them come for a few moments and then went outside for some privacy. Then the music changed, the tears calmed and I went back inside.
    Now for the past few days I have been surrounded by men - some of them seemingly sweet and some annoying. Last night there were two pilgrims with whom I have been keeping pace and three on bikes. It’s funny sleeping in a dorm with 5 blokes. There is very little privacy but a wonderful protocol of keeping to one’s self so it is easy to get dressed and undressed in the dark.
    Anyway back to the story - when I went back inside to breakfast something had changed. They were no longer nice or annoying men to be kept at arms length - they were fellow pilgrims, in fact just fellow humans, with me, on this journey of life for a short time. Even as I write these words my eyes fill with tears - something has loosened, softened.
    I am sitting in a bar (midday break) with music playing (something Spanish) making me want to dance just for the joy of being alive at this time and in this place.
    I think we must waste so much energy keeping things inside, tamped down, keeping it together. One of the things I love about the Spanish is that what you see is what you get - sometimes grumpy, frustrated, tired but eventuality nearly always kind, helpful and connected.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    21
    Day 3

    Day 39 - Calzadilla de Terra - 12 km

    October 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Weather: 12 - 18 degrees. Cloudy with rain forecast later in the morning and afternoon
    Clothes: short sleeve merino shirt, light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The scenery
    Todays walk was through small poplar plantations with beautiful autumn leaves, and past rich farm land - mainly flat and beside a slow river. The smell of the fallen leaves in the light rain was particularly special- reminding me of the Cotter River near Canberra. The rain so far has been very light and with the warm temperatures it is not a problem. The cold downpours of my nightmares haven’t eventuated.

    Today’s adventure.
    Because of my still healing knee I decided to just walk the 5 km along the road to the next town with a hotel. However I didn’t know that this town has archeological significance and I forgot it’s Saturday. So of course the hotel was ‘completo’ - full.
    Thinking I was only walking a short distance meant I went slowly and took a 5 minute break every 20 minutes - protecting my knee. So even though I couldn’t stay the night it was a great stop I would have otherwise bypassed. I had an excellent coffee and yummy pastry. Bueno.
    The next town was only another 5 km on so I continued slowly, enjoying every moment of the day. It made me realise that walking more slowly through the day benefits both body and mind.

    I am the only one in the albergue tonight. Often the albergues are locked or have a resident hospitalaro - but this one was open, with a box for donations and a self check in system. It’s on the first floor of a medical centre- but being Saturday the services downstairs are closed. There was a lovely welcoming feeling to just arrive and open the door.
    There is a small supermarket in town and a rather up-market Bar Blanco in the town across the river.
    I had chickpea soup, pork steaks and salad and flán for dessert (with the customary bottle of wine - I don’t drink it all) . Pork is pretty much a staple in Spain so always on the menu - but I think I am looking forward to a change.
    All the ‘boys’ have just arrived at the Bar and the cards are out. It’s a serious thing with a green felt cover on the table on which to play the cards. They must have finished lunch - I wonder what the women do.
    I’ll hang around here for a while and use the free wifi and then wander back to my albergue.
    I have enough food for a light snack tonight and breakfast tomorrow.
    I heard my next stop has an outstanding restaurant - it’s all about the food. 😂

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    22
    Day 4

    Day 40 - Villar de Farfón - 10 km

    October 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Wow - day 40 and the nearly the end of the month!
    Weather: 8 - 17 degrees. Cloudy then sunny.
    Clothes: long sleeve merino top today, light wind fleece, trekking pants, and then rain jacket a bit later as it cooled down higher up in the hills - and I’m going slow with lots of stops.

    I’m so happy it stopped raining during the night.
    Three young peregrinos arrived last night; wet, cold, tired and hungry after walking some 35 km. By then it was raining too much for them to go to the Bar over the river so they cobbled together some dinner from the little shop just down the road. A tough night but the sun is out so I think things will get better for them.
    My walk plan: stop every 30 mins to rest the knee.

    The walk
    Flat agricultural land - some with corn and some fallow. There was one section after Olive de Tera where the roadside was planted with alternating apple trees and grape vines. The apple trees had all dropped their fruit - enough to make a lot of cider. I thought about how beneficent these trees are; they reminded me of Latvia - they just keep on giving.
    Just further there were some acres of abandoned vines- I think they were grapes but also some other berry vine that I couldn’t recognise. I wonder what happened.
    I am sitting outside a church quite far from town (stop #2) and had a lovely interaction with a local lady who was walking by. The Spanish quickly recognise pilgrims. It’s been a part of their culture for so many centuries and has been popularised in recent years. When you walk in Spain you feel at least recognised and sometimes honoured but always greeted well.
    The young woman from last night said she had walked in Italy and did not get the same reaction.
    Climbing a bit higher a lake appears and most of the walk is spent skirting the lake and crossing over the dam wall and then walking along the other side. Sadly there is lots of evidence of last summers bushfires. It’s lovely high country and must have been truly beautiful last spring. There are small areas that the fires missed so hopefully the land will regenerate more easily.
    Where I am sitting (resting the knee) has not been completely burnt and there are still birds chirping and flitting through the trees.
    It’s so quiet here that even with the sound of the water passing through the dam’s spillway, I can still hear the flutter of bird wings. We are far away from any motorway now so the silence behind the sounds of nature is complete. The silence of the Self.
    A new thing. I heard the bang of what might be guns. I think this is a long weekend of hunting- I read about it on the Camino Forum from someone on another Camino. Just the odd bang here and there. 🙏

    And then a surprise. 😲
    Just as I was getting a bit tired I came to the next small village. It had so many old and crumbling buildings- it felt quite ancient. It has also been surrounded by fire. I wondered how the residents were managing.
    There was a sign that indicated coffee 200 metres and then coffee 80 metres. That’s where I needed to go. And then just as I got to the end of town the sweetest little albergue came into view. It looked like a pixie house. This was where I would get coffee.
    A man was hobbling down the lane and it turned out he was the hospitalaro- Craig originally from South Africa . He and his family are Christians and have been in various countries (India and Africa) doing good works - in the best sense of the word. They decided to come to Spain and open an albergue. Ten years ago Craig and his wife Dorothea bought a virtually derelict building and made a home for themselves and a refuge for pilgrims. During the fires Craig fell off the roof and broke his leg. His home and pilgrim refuge had been surrounded by fire.
    Anyway I knew this was my stopping point today. I drank two cups of tea (PG tips from the UK sooo good ☕️) and we talked for an over an hour about spirituality and Christianity before Craig showed me to my accomodation, checked me in and left me to the shower and clothes wash routine. Dinner is at 7 - a more manageable time for me. There is no shop in town so I have eaten nearly all the food I had with me. I had wondered why last night I didn’t share anything with the late comers. Now I knew - I needed it all for myself today.
    Now I am sitting in the sun out in the front rock-garden listening to the bees and flies and soaking in the warmth of the sun - and I was just visited by a huge fat bee. 🐝
    It’s so quiet and still here and reminds my of the high country of NSW - country so close to my heart.
    And still the silence continues…….

    How am I?
    My knee is still sore so I was planning to take it easy doing a slow 15 km - which turned into 10 km. The cool autumn weather is pleasant and the clouds are parting to show blue sky. It’s supposed to be sunny in the afternoon.
    I stopped to put my leg up for 5 minutes at a small village some 2.3 km from my starting point. I guess it will be another day of very regular stops to give the knee a chance to keep healing.
    I think I might have used most of the excess resources on my body. 😂. I seem to be getting hungry more quickly, and my one big meal doesn’t satisfy me for as long as it used to. Doesn’t mean I’m skinny though. But I guess as I build more muscle I need more food.
    Today I have eaten - bread, banana, half tub of yogurt, big avocado, tuna, more bread, chocolate - and it’s only 11.00 am and I could still eat. 🥗🥙🍕🍗🥘
    Anyway all is well. I was reflecting that in the early weeks of this Camino the walking was so hard that I couldn’t wait to get to the end of the day. Not only hard because of the landscape and weather but because the body wasn’t fit. Now I am happy to walk. The pack feels fine and of course the weather is much more user friendly particularly as I haven’t experienced any heavy rain to date.

    PS. The time changed. I gained an hour today but that means pilgrim dinner is at 6 pm. Yummy bean soup plus vino - of course.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    2
    Day 5

    Day 41 - Mombuey - 15.1 km

    October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Weather: 6 - 14 degrees. Rain forecast all day.
    Clothes: long sleeve merino , light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants, rain poncho
    Body: The knee is better every day. I am happy that I stopped early yesterday. Today it’s been fine on the flat and up hill, but down hill I need to take it slowly.
    I tried out my rain poncho for the first time today. It’s a bit short but then doesn’t flap around my legs which is good. I zipped the legs off my pants - skin is easier to dry than fabric. I felt snug as a bug in a rug. It hardly rained at all for the first 5 km and then it was light rain with gusty wind for a lot of the next 10 km

    The walk
    An online Camino amigo said today’s walk is beautiful and it has been - initially like walking through a fairy forest. I’m out of the bushfire impacted area and can see what it used to look like. The trees are short and many are covered with interesting moss. And a deer crossed my path - she leaped over the road and I saw her white tail disappear through the trees.
    I wanted to stop after 5 km - at Rionegra - for a longer rest and maybe a coffee but it’s Monday and all the bars are closed. So I was going to sit in the shelter of the albergue porch - when lo and behold- a woman came over to see if I wanted accomodation. I said I was just resting my knee so she unlocked the door and let me in. This is another great albergue in which I had planned to stay before the pixie house caught my eye. Anyway a 30 minute rest on the couch was perfect before I set off for the next 10 km to Mombuey.
    I am so glad I rested. The next 10 km was over interesting flat open land with tussocks and marshy bits. It was a bit rainy with quite a bit of wind once I left the shelter of the trees. It was hard going and the elements made it harder to appreciate the landscape.
    I stopped a number of times just to stand and stare - particularly when the wind died down. It was quite beautiful and reminded me a bit of the high country around Kiandra.
    But I had to be careful the whole time because there was a lot of water on the trail.
    Anyway I sort of stumbled into Mombuey and stopped at the first bar I saw.
    Even though they advertised a pilgrim meal they wouldn’t do one - not sure why. Not having Spanish leaves me guessing a lot of the time. Anyway I had chips with ham, bacon and three cheeses on top. Filled up the empty spots and brought me to my senses. Now that I could think more clearly I found the albergue, found house #9 to knock on the door for a key (the nine looked more like a four) and arrived at another small albergue- great bathroom, fridge and microwave, and heater!!!
    By the way the clocks changed yesterday so sunrise will be a bit earlier from now on.
    As I move into the final month of my trip I need to be a bit more frugal. So I got my dinner at the supermarket- lentil soup I can heat in the microwave- and some fruit and food for the road tomorrow.
    Again it seems I am solo. I don’t think there will be any late comers as it’s almost 6 pm.
    The weather forecast looks good for tomorrow - yeah. 🌞🌞🌞

    Buen Camino.

    PS. Never say never. A Spanish man just arrived at 6.56 pm.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    111211
    Day 6

    Day 42 - Asturianos - 17.2 km

    November 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Weather: 1 - 14 degrees 😰 but no rain and sun later in the morning.
    Clothes: Long sleeve and singlet merino top, lightweight fleece, rain jacket ( for warmth) and trekking pants.

    The Walk
    First stop - bar around the corner for a coffee. ☕️
    There was no rain but there was a wonderful fog until around midday. Again reminding me of winter in the Snowy Mountains.
    The day took me through a corridor of trees, past a rabbit and then a group of deer bouncing across the road in the misty distance. Later there were a number of small villages- so sweet - and steeper ups and downs as we climb further into this current range of mountains.
    I met two peregrinos on the road - the first on a bike and then a man on foot passed me as I sat on a stone to have a snack and a rest.
    I arrived at Asturianos around 2 pm, saw a Bar just along the road and ordered Ensalata Mixta - my favourite.
    When I arrived at the albergue the man I met in the road was there but pretty soon others followed. A German man, two Italians, a. Spanish woman - so now we are six. Even though I spent virtually all day alone the numbers are increasing as the days go by. Some started in Sevilla in early October and have caught up with me and passed me, and others have started at various other places like Salamanca and Zamora.
    The albergue is next to a sports centre with its own bar and large outdoor picnic area. I think they must have a rifle range as well because I heard shooting.
    I finished my day with some yoga outside on the grass in the sun.
    Last thing was a quick trip to the shop for a bit of supper and something to eat in the way tomorrow - but was closed because today is a public holiday - for honouring the dead - like Hallowe’en.

    Camino Magic
    Around 10.30 am Juan on the bike walked with me for a few minutes and then we stopped as he shared some information about accomodation for tomorrow in Puebla de Sanabrés. He will be there tonight. It was a strangely intimate and warm interaction. Then he headed off in his bike (Buen Camino) and I started walking again. I immediately noticed the pain in my knee had completely disappeared. Was Juan some kind of shaman? I contemplated and reflected.
    At one point earlier I had had a little chat with my Higher Power and agreed to continue at a slow pace and not keep hankering after 20+ km days. Part of me wants to show I can do these longer days. But I agreed to under 20 km days - so now I don’t need a dodgy knee to keep me at that pace. So whether is was Juan or surrender to the Greater Wisdom, the knee seems to have miraculously stopped hurting.
    I did take an ibuprofen and 2 Panadol much earlier but the miraculous‘healing’ seemed to happen a very long time after that.
    Whatever - I am very happy.

    Reflection on persistence
    This morning I had the urge to chant the Rudram - an ancient Vedic chant. Unfortunately the one thing I didn’t do before I left home was to load up my spiritual music into my current phone. So I found the Rudram on YouTube and played it for a few minutes. I didn’t do the whole thing because I wasn’t on Wifi and I didn’t want to use my data. Anyway, then I just felt like sitting quietly, which I did for a few moments. Then there was the impetus to check on my next few Camino days. My knee is still sore so I am limited to around 15 km a day for a while.
    The stop after tonight has no albergue - closed. And it’s a tourist town with expensive hotels - well expensive by Spanish standards. Before the knee injury I was very clear that I wouldn’t pay those prices and would walk the 28 km to the next accomodation. Well that wasn’t going to happen now.
    I tried to call the cheapest hotel but couldn’t get through so had to go through booking.com. First there were no vacancies, then there were, then there weren’t. But I had learnt from my lovely daughter that you should keep trying as availability and even price can change depending on which links you use. Anyway turns out tonight is booked out but tomorrow- when I need the room - had a vacancy. Persistence pays.
    So it turns out I am stopping where I was determined not to stop but got the cheapest hotel in town - which will still be excellent.
    And I read it is a tourist town with many things to see. So I’m looking forward to exploring in the afternoon.

    The fabric of the universe is an energy we call Love.
    I was reminded of this teaching again the other day so I have been practicing seeing that everything is made of Love. Yesterday’s rain and wind was made of Love. Todays fog - Love. Being tired - Love. Sore knee - Love. This practice has made seemingly difficult things much more pleasant.
    And the truth of this bore fruit when speaking to the German man this afternoon. He walked through the same wind and rain that I did but thought it was dreadful. I didn’t really mind so much - unless it rained and blew more on him than me - which is another possibility. 🫢

    I have been reflecting on the spiritual elements of the Camino - what is it that makes it different from just another walk or hike. Hopefully I can report back soon.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    2
    Day 7

    Day 43 - Puebla de Sanabria - 12.5 km

    November 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Weather: 1 - 13 degrees. Cloudy with some sun. Brrrr
    Clothes: short and long sleeve merino tops, light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The walk.
    I’m looking forward to Puebla - it has a medieval old town and the nearby lake is the largest glacial lake on the Iberian peninsula.
    What a beautiful day. Wonderful sunrise and blue sky for much of the morning.
    My German friend Peter warned me last night that this next section on the Camino can be flooded after rain and that he was going to walk along the road - and that is a bit shorter as well.
    I started off with Peter along the road but thought I would walk the off road Camino. However when I got to the turn off something stopped me. I looked at the map and read the route description again. It sounded like this could be even worse than some of the other wet sections I had already traversed. A quick check in with the body and I headed back to the road.
    And what a beautiful walk - virtually no traffic and beautiful autumn trees (Birch, Chestnut and others I couldn’t identify) on either side of the road. A little later there were windfall apples again - delicious.
    And then the real mountains appeared ahead - the ones that will eventually be covered in snow - again reminding me of the Snowy Mountains - this time the view from Geehi Flats (the old air strip) where we used to pick blackberries.
    So many of the landscapes of Spain remind me of Australia. New yet familiar.
    Arrived at Puebla around 11.30 am, stopped at the supermarket for some fruit and the Farmacia for some more ibuprofen and Panadol. I had a quick look at the town and then on over the second river crossing to my hotel. It looked a bit run down from the outside but the inside is great - filled with all sorts of collectables from the area.
    The manager also said I can use their computer so I can finally fill out the form for the claim for a fraudulent transaction on my Cash Passport card. Better late than never.
    Staying in a hotel also gives me the chance to completely empty my pack and get organised again.
    On the next day or so we will go over the highest point on this Camino and then down hill to Santiago.
    Later in the afternoon I walked back up to the old town and had a peaceful wander around the castle and adjacent streets. A lovely way to end the day.

    Buen Camino

    PS. Managed to wash and dry most of my clothes. I washed undies, socks and one top earlier and when the heaters came on washed some more. My wind fleece was looking grubby so now it too is clean and fresh.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    2
    1
    Day 7

    Puebla de Sanabria - Medieval Old Town

    November 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I think this historic town deserves a page to itself. Especially as all the signs are in Spanish and English.
    The town was taken over in 1451 by the Fourth Count of Benavente and his wife, Countess Maria de Pacheco.
    They built the castle and Countess Maria ‘concluded that together they built the town’ - which they probably did in the sense that I imagine it might have been a rather ‘insignificant’ village before the Count and Countess came and put their mark on it.
    This region is situated quite close to Portugal so the Count and Countess had to be prepared to defend their territory.
    As I was exploring the castle and surrounds I came across (dare I say) a ‘trendy’ Bar/Cafe. Of course I stopped. I’ve been ‘roughing’ it for quite a a while now. So I got a vino and wedges with sauce and sour cream. I must say the wine was excellent and the wedges were perfect.
    This medieval town is exquisite. It’s like a huge outdoor museum. As well as the castle, walls and defence structures (like the watch tower) there is a large church and a smaller chapel. The surrounding buildings have been well restored and the work is ongoing. All the important buildings are named and explained.
    I always wonder who actually lives in these places now. Are they for some sort of elite or are some of the old time residents still around.
    My wander around the narrow and twisting streets has been one of the highlights of this Camino - partly because it was unexpected and partly because the old town felt really accessible.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    11111212
    Day 8

    Day 44 - Requejo - 12.7 km

    November 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Weather: 2 - 14 degrees. Yesterday said rain - today maybe not.
    Clothes: short and long sleeve merino top, fleece and rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The walk.
    I left my hotel to a misty foggy morning- droplets of water that could perhaps be called rain only a couple of times.
    There have been a number of warnings that the Camino trail could be flooded in certain sections here during rainy seasons. However given it wasn’t actually raining when I left at 9 am I thought I would see how I felt when I got to the first turn off.
    Well it seemed fine so off I went along the river. And it was exquisite. There were a couple of water hurdles but someone had kindly made some small bridges and the only time I got my feet wet was when I thought the second bridge looked a little unsteady and I tried to walk through the meadow. Turns out it was a water meadow so with slightly wet feet I headed back to the bridge which turned out to be rock solid.
    Walking along the river was a such delight I didn’t at all mind the slightly wet feet.
    I also began to understand that this section might have been difficult and even frightening for someone else. - thinking of my German friend Peter, who has had 5 operations in 4 years.
    Again I was grateful for my early life in the country; camping, walking through the bush and enjoying the challenges this can bring.
    After the first river section I followed the arrows and walked along the road where I was partnered by a rainbow for the next hour or more. 🌈🌈🌈. How can I doubt that I am loved and protected?
    I missed the next river section as the causeway just off the road was flooded and a man came to shout me away - he was really looking for his cow but he also seemed to indicate that I should stay on the road
    The next choice was to either continue along the road or try the longer ‘scenic’ route. I took the scenic route and as it initially went up hill, seemed safe from flooding.
    I was so happy I did that. It was a fairy land of tracks and trails and trees and leaves and light and sparkling streams and small meadows and cows and bliss -perhaps the most beautiful section since Sevilla. ❤️❤️❤️. One guide said it was picturesque- an understatement.
    I arrived at Requejo at 12.30 pm - no time at all - stopped at the Bar for a refresh before I went to find my albergue.
    On the way there I met a young French man - he said his name was Rocket. He was travelling to Porto - hitchhiking and walking. It was comforting for us both to have a conversation- his English was great - and to wish each other well in our various adventures.
    After the usual albergue routine I headed for the local hotel/ restaurant to eat. Although the town seems deserted the restaurant was buzzing - with tables having second and even third seatings.
    So that’s it for today. Till tomorrow.

    Buen Camino

    Reflections on the mind …
    At various times in the night and early morning the mind fretted about rain and coffee. Will it rain and do they serve real coffee for breakfast in the hotel (there are no Bars nearby). Thank goodness through mindful practice I was able to turn away from these thoughts and have a good nights sleep.
    And guess what - no rain, just fog: and plenty of real coffee for breakfast. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
    Today I realised that the mind has been doing an awful lot of worrying over this Camino - as I have shared in previous posts - more so than on previous Caminos . Over and over again everything turns out OK.
    I also thought it might be that there is so much more fear energy in the world these days. From all the people wanting to walk a Camino but sharing on various forums how scared they are - to Peter yesterday taking about flood and snow as we head over the mountains.
    And here I am, the sun is shining, I am well fed, I have warm bed and clean clothes. And I am safe.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    3
    2
    Day 9

    Day 45 - Lubián - 16.8 km

    November 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Weather: 0 - 11 and cloudy
    Clothes: The same

    The day started clear with yet another beautiful pink sunrise. Relaxed breakfast coffee and toast at the bar and then off I went.
    The first part of the walk today was along the road going up, up and more up. Today we get to the highest point of this Camino before a long downhill to Santiago.
    I read that the route has also been a bit disrupted by building the AVE ( high speed train route) but all in all it was fine. The sun was shining and even though there was a cold wind that needed some adjustment of headgear from time to time, I felt snug.
    Just as I was getting a bit tired of the road the route went left to the tracks and dirt roads of previous times. The route wound under the new overpasses and I crossed a wonderful river cascading over rocks. Then to my surprise I came to a white concrete roadway that took me to the highest point. I sat in the sun just before the top. I wanted to savour this stage because it felt like the end of the endless stage of the Camino. I am definitely coming into that last stage I spoke about in a previous post - before I know it I will be in Santiago. It now seems harder to stay in the day I am in - the mind keeps jumping ahead to the end.
    The monument, sitting on green grass flanked by Birch trees, was a short way down from the actual highest point. I spent quite some time there before the body/mind was ready to move on down the hill.
    Before long I came to the tiny village of Padornelo which never the less had a significant hotel and bar/restaurant. Warm fire, coffee and Jamon bocadilla, and I was ready for the last 8 km to Lubián.
    The last section was as beautiful as the first section and yesterday’s meandering track. While I am not yet in Galicia itself I am definitely in Galician country. I feel so at home here. If yesterday was a fairy path today was the dwarf path. Wonderful.
    More rivers, bridges, trees and tracks and I eventually got to Lubián. The albergue door was unlocked - as they all have been over the past few days and given it was 3.30 pm I went straight to get some food. I just scraped into the restaurant’s lunch time - ends at 4 pm. I couldn’t have waited till 8.30 pm and didn’t have the energy or brain power to buy food and cook. A lovely woman guided me to the Bar through the winding streets of this small village.
    Right now I am sitting in the Bar grabbing some Wifi.
    Then it’s back to the albergue to get ready for tomorrow.

    Buen Camino

    Reflection
    The monument at the pass at A Canda (1365 metres) was a powerful moment - an important moment - a place to stop and reflect. It has taken me 6 weeks to reach this point and in two weeks I will in Santiago.
    In my mind’s eye I could see Santiago ahead and after that the rest of my life - which at that moment seemed more terrifying and uncertain than walking the Camino forever.
    My mind very naturally reflected on the last 6 weeks and various Camino memories arose - the hard bits, the easy bits, the inspiring bits. In that moment I wanted to go back to Sevilla and do it all over again.
    This Camino feels like getting to know a stranger with all the ups and downs of that journey - only to discover that as you come to thoroughly know them, there is only love. And love. And love.
    My eyes keep getting wet and I am not sure why. Anticipation of the Camino goodbye or the love that the Camino elicits?

    Camino amigo talks about Galicia
    I had a buddy last night. A man from Madrid, Serge, who is riding his bike from Sevilla to Santiago in 15 days. That’s all the time he has. Phew! He wants to ride through Chile. The Camino is part of his preparation.
    Serge lived in the US for a year and is a flight attendant. We had a great chat. And he gave me the warmest farewell after coffee in the morning. I again saw that I am shy of goodbyes and letting people know how much they mean to me - something to let go.
    Serge’a father comes from Galicia and he told me a little about this district. It’s one of the poorest in Spain because it is so mountainous. Serge said his father left the village at age 14 to go to school and that in the 60’s people started to move to the cities. There are only two people living permanently in Serge’s father’s village. Many who have left villages have kept and renovated their traditional village homes and go there for the summer holidays. So the villages can be busy in summer but deserted in winter. This part of the Camino goes through tourist areas - hence the bigger hotels and Bars.

    PS. I am standing outside (catching some internet bars) as the sun sets and the moon rises. It’s clear and cold but so fresh and pleasant. I am a mountain person. Beautiful.    Read more

  • 2024© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Blog
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Support
  • Legal notice
  • English