Day 51 - Ourense - 23.4 km

Weather: 10 - 18 degrees. Some cloud.
Clothes: short sleeve merino, light wind fleece and rain jacket to start until it warms up. I have been walking in shorts since the rain the other day.

The morning
Since my two caffeine free mornings l am a little more anxious about my morning coffee. Last night I asked the rather depressed looking Bar host if they were open in the morning. He said 7.15 am - which sounded like a strange time and I wondered if I understood him correctly. Anyway this morning I made my way to the Bar in hope and fear. 😂. Yes it was open!
It looks like the host is not well, and just sitting on a stool is a great difficulty for him. I forgave him any grumpiness and sent as much love and as many blessings as I could. May he regain good health and the subsequent happiness that brings.
While one coffee was good I believe today is a two coffee day and I knew there were plenty of stops between here and Ourense. The body is telling me it needs a rest day so I have booked two nights in Ourense before walking the 22 km to Cea.
I had my second coffee in the first village I passed. ☕️
It was so peaceful sitting outside looking at the trees and hills and sky. I could have sat there for a long time.

The day
Another day in lovely Galicia - a few paths and tracks and then mainly along a minor road but still beautiful.
The sky is blue with clouds. The weather pleasantly cool. The road not too busy. Lots of variety - shady lanes - villages - then the hills to one side.
The day has turned into a bit of a Bar crawl - first stop was for coffee - second stop (still in the morning) Tinto de Verano with a tapas of the best tortilla I have had. The egg still soft but cooked around the yummy potatoes. When I said to the host that it was too early for wine he said a definite No! And remembering all the guys who have a shot of spirit with their morning coffee I thought - When in Spain ….
And the drink - lots of ice, a little wine and tonic water with a couple of spritzed lemon peels. Perfect. The best.
I think all discipline has left the building. I can see a completely indulgent day ahead and a day off tomorrow, so no pressure. Double perfect.
As I was sitting with my vino I saw another pilgrim, head down seemingly scurrying by. I was so happy I have the time and inclination to sit and dream at least for some of the time.
Third stop in another village for a decaf.
The walk into Ourense is a long one through the outskirts - at first just countryside with houses, more like an extended village- then an industrial area - then what would have been a small separate village in the past (very cute) but has now been enveloped by Ourense - and then through what is a regular city scape until we get to the old town.
I stopped at 2 pm for lunch in an ordinary Bar / Restaurant. I needed the break before I did what I thought was the last hour to my hostel. The meal was delicious. The food and beverages today have been the best so far.
I wasn’t that far away after all and soon came to Hostel Grelo which is great. The owner - named Santiago - speaks English. He did my laundry for the usual price(€5 wash and dry), told me how to get to the hot springs tomorrow, and told me about the Chestnut Fiesta tomorrow with lots happening in the old town and a concert in the evening. I had seen posters for this event along the way - a great day to be in Ourense.
After settling into the Hostel I went for a walk in the old town. It seems to be quite different in character and energy to anything before.
It’s great to know I don’t have to get ready to walk tomorrow - just take the day as it comes.

Buen Camino

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