Camino Via de la Plata

septiembre - octubre 2022
My third and longest Camino Leer más
  • 51huellas
  • 1países
  • 36días
  • 442fotos
  • 0videos
  • 3,8kkilómetros
  • 1,4kkilómetros
  • Día 11

    Day 11 - Villafranca- 20 km

    1 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    ‘Walk your own Camino’
    This is the saying and advice given over and over again and it is amazing how often we forget for ourselves and judge others when their way is different.
    It seems I have hit an ‘empty day’ - I was the only walker at the albergue last night (4 others were on bikes) and have only seen one other walker today.
    This means it is so much easier to stroll at my own pace, stop when I feel like it and start again when I am ready. Right now I am sitting by the side of a small dirt roadway amongst the olive groves. I can hear distant traffic, birds tweeting, the sound of the wind in the trees and the buzz of the occasional insect. So peaceful.
    My favourite little town so far - Los Santos de Maimona - appeared 4 km from todays starting point and I had a delicious cafe con leche and toast - served by a smiling and happy young woman. A few men were out walking their dogs and stopping for coffee or a chat with each other. I received many ‘Buenos dias’ and smiles as I followed the huge yellow arrows painted in the street. The town has such a lovely atmosphere. I imagined a close knit community, not far from the action in Zafra, but very much away from the hustle and bustle.
    Afternoon - I have had a lovely day only to find the albergue in Villafranca closed and all other accommodation booked out because of the agricultural show in Zafra.
    Was suggested that I take a bus to Merida but with the help of some young people I got a bed in the next town and headed for the bus stop.
    More help from some English speakers but I missed taking the next bus because I thought it went to Sevilla. So now waiting another 90 mins for the next bus. Aaahhhggh!!!!
    I wondered if I would end up having to sleep at the bus stop. Worse things have happened.
    A real lesson in patience and an opportunity to practice calm and trust. And also learning that problems will be solved when they are solved and not a moment sooner.
    Good news - there is a power point at the bus station so I could charge my phone.
    Leer más

  • Día 11

    Day 12 - An unexpected day in Mérida

    1 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Well!!!! Last night….
    When the bus finally came it didn’t stop in the town I wanted (Torremejia) - where the young person had called ahead for me and organised a €10 bed. It stopped at the town before - Almendralejo - which had relatively expensive accommodation and was apparently all booked out according to Booking.com….. and then went straight to Mérida.
    Well who am I to argue with God’s plan - so off to Mérida I went.
    Arrived at 7.00 pm only to discover the Albergue closed till tomorrow (family problems) and Mérida completely booked out. Stunned is one way to describe how that felt - at 8 pm.
    Today I saw there was some sort of big running event on so between that and regular weekend tourists the place was full.
    Now I need to add that the other day I saw a Camino post from a man who couldn’t find any accommodation on the last stages of Camino Frances and had to take a bus to Santiago (for a bed) and then take a bus back the next morning to complete the walk so he could get his Compostela. Can I admit to judgmental thoughts about this man. So of course I end up in a similar situation - another lesson in humility.
    After checking a number of hostels on Booking.com I think I got the last bed in Mérida. Problem solved - except it was €80. By that time is was after 8 pm and I had started my search for a bed at 2.30 pm - so I booked two nights (night two a mere €35). I could have tried the Albergue for night two but that just felt too hard.
    I was obviously supposed to see Mérida (sooner than expected) and by the time I walked to my accomodation i was exhausted. Even at the end I needed the help of two young boys happy practice their English as they showed me I only had to go around the corner to find the entrance to Hostel Milagro.
    My learning from all this -
    1. Plan ahead at least for the next day and ask your host to call ahead for you to confirm Albergues are open.
    2. Be extra careful on weekends in big towns that attract tourists and might also have something on.

    PS - Woke in the morning with a number of ‘should haves’ and ‘what if’s’ going on - but after listening to some sacred mantras and texts (SGG) it all all fell away and only gentle cohesion remained.
    Leer más

  • Día 12

    Mérida -Rome in ruins amongst flowers

    2 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What a lovely peaceful day in Mérida.
    Sunday meant not too many people up and about. Highlights….
    My Hostel Milagro - meaning ‘miracle’ in Spanish, named after the nearby Milagro Aquaduct is near a large park, close enough to the Roman artefacts, and beside a cluster of older apartment buildings (public housing?) with cheaper bars at which to eat - and the only shop open on Sunday night where I could get something to eat to take with me on the road tomorrow.
    Searched out all the main Roman ruins and saw all the free stuff. There is a hearty bushy fence around the main theatre complex but kind people have made gaps to see through. It is really affordable at €16 entry but I was not interested in spending that much time there.
    I did enjoy a good look at a very old ice house / sauna. I’m still not sure how those two activities could occupy the same building.
    Saw more flowers today than in all my Camino days so far.
    Stopped in a small church and fell into meditation. Then remembered that yesterday was my mothers birthday and today was Dad’s death day and Mum’s funeral. Had time to reflect on them both and connect with their love for me and my love for them.
    Lay in the grass under a hibiscus bush.
    Had a great lunch - €12
    Asked reception to ring ahead for me for tomorrow night
    Lay on my bed at peace.

    And of course it’s Baba Muktananda’s Solar Mahasamadhi. ❤️🌈🥰🎉
    Leer más

  • Día 13

    Day 13 - Aljucén - 17 km

    3 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Highlights ….
    Once out of Mérida the way was not very well marked for a few km. But I met up with Max of a few days ago and followed him to the green bike path where he seemingly zoomed ahead. There was another dirt turn off about 9-10 Km out that was not marked but I realised I had gone past when all of a sudden the sun was in the wrong place. I have an online map that I can check so I got back on track very quickly.
    Walked 17 km (with pack) and am not wrecked - might even be ready for the hills in the final stages of this Camino -which I think I can see in the far far distance.
    An easy day of gently undulating lightly forested land, and grapes being harvested .
    There is a Roman built Lake Proserpina about 4 km out of Mérida that sent water to the Milagro Aqueduct in Mérida all those centuries ago. I walked across the 2000 year old dam wall. Amazing construction.
    A bit later cows that look like bulls and rams that look ewes. I never knew that rams could have such huge low slung balls.
    Finally arriving at the cutest town of Aljucén with lots of Camino signage and a great old church dedicated to St Andrew. The only down side was that the church was built to celebrate the expulsion of the Moors. ☹️
    Tomorrow I walk 19 km.
    Buen Camino
    PS just worked out I am averaging 15 km per day which includes the 56 km by bus and taxi. Not too bad for an old codger.
    Leer más

  • Día 14

    Day 14 - Alcuéscar 19.1 km

    4 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Very hot very tough day - so thankful for my umbrella as the last 7 km were without shade and the temperature got to the low 30’s.
    I met a man from Brittany, Serge, and I walked with him at the end. It made it much easier. And then he paid for lunch. Too kind.
    This is Serge’s second time on this Camino. Last time he did it in spring. He showed me some photos and it was so green and full of flowers - and full of pilgrims. Very different from Autumn.
    We are staying at Casa de Acogida de los Esclavos de María y de los Pobres. It is actually a hospital ‘for people who require special care’ run by a religious order. They also provide accommodation for pilgrims by donation. It is beautifully calm and peaceful and the hospitalaro is very kind and helpful.
    Because there are not so many pilgrims at this time of year I have had a room / dorm to myself quite a few times. A blessing of this autumn Camino.
    And Fiesta continues. Apparently 4 October is a religious celebration in the Catholic tradition. So there is a fun fair here tonight. With all the lights and rides and food. I can hear the music and noise from my bed. I was remembering how exciting the Show was when I was young and it is fun watching the children and young people enjoying the excitement of it all.
    But it feels so peaceful here - I am sure as soon as I shut my window I will easily drift off to sleep regardless of the noise. Oh and the church bell just above me goes off every 15 minutes. Haha. I am surprised that none of this seems to bother me. Right now I feel a happiness within. Maybe the Camino is doing its work on me.
    PS Just discovered the window is double glazed and sound proof - this truely is a blessed place.
    Leer más

  • Día 15

    Day 15 - Valdesalor - 26 km!!!!!

    5 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Last night a group of older Spanish pilgrims struggled in around 7 pm. They looked done in - particularly one man.
    I later found out they are mostly experienced walkers and one even runs half marathons. They had walked 34 km in one day. And they are all around 60 or older. 🤩🤩🤩
    I have been trying to walk less than 20 km per day until it cools down. I decided it was too hard in the afternoon heat. But it turns out that the albergue in one of my planned stops is closed. While I was working out how to break up the next stages I had a chat with the woman in the group, Beatrice (the rest of the group are men).
    Anyway the result is that I walked with the group - and it seemed I wanted to give the 26 km a go. When we got to my original planned stop at 15 km one man decided to take a taxi the rest of the way. He kindly agreed to take my back pack so I could walk the next 11 km with just my small day pack. I don’t think I could have done it with a full pack- so God was looking after me and let me know I can do more than the mind allows.
    Everyone looked out for me and were very complementary. Antonio had a long conversing me via Google translate and others made sure I was OK.
    Antonio and others talked about Santa Rita (Saint Rita - who I came across in Sevilla) who said - What is given is not taken away.
    In Spain the use the expression with children to teach them to take turns and share.
    But for me it means that when we give something away we are not diminished, we do not lose anything. I like that meaning better as for me it indicates that there is an infinite supply in all of us - for others and also for ourselves.
    Today was also the day that I wanted to let go of the belief that I can’t walk very far and that it’s too hard. I recalled one of our guides in Tibet who said - it’s all in the mind.
    What I found today was that I can walk much further thank I think. But when it gets hard the ‘I can’t’ thoughts arise with great gusto. 😂😂😂
    I do need to be mindful of my foot with the Morton’s Neuroma and mindful of the heat - but I have my beloved umbrella.
    I found the last 7 km really hot and hard but instead of thinking thoughts about how I can’t do this, I did some releasing. My mantra (in 32 degrees) was - I allow myself to feel as hot as I do: I allow myself to be as cool as I can. It helped me to focus on being cool instead of focusing on how hot it was - and kept me going - and a cooler breeze soon popped up which helped of course.
    Right now I have shared a meal with my group (salad, calamari, chicken, pork and the best tomatoes so far) and they are all getting a bit pissed on the local wine which tastes a bit like sherry and is quite good but seems stronger than the other Spanish wine I have tasted. I eventually had a small amount and when I said I liked it they all cheered.
    My most loved Camino items today
    - Umbrella
    - Day pack
    - Voltarin Forte cream

    Other highlights
    The whole of today was through the country side - away from any main roads.
    Here the Camino follows the old Roman road going north. We crossed three Roman bridges - still completely intact and going strong - and passed a Roman milestone that said XXVIII.

    PS - the group stopped for many photo opportunities- hence some photos of me for a change. 😁

    Buen Camino
    Leer más

  • Día 16

    Day 16 - Casar de Cáceres - 22 km

    6 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We got off to an early start this morning to have some extended time to look at the ancient city of Cáceres on the way.
    This city started as a Roman city, then Visigoth, then Moorish and finally Christian.
    The more I see if the south of Spain the more I admire and appreciate the Moorish culture.
    The old town of Cáseres is full of history but the place that had the greatest impact on me was a small museum of a typical Arab home. It had an indoor water well supplied by rain water and a sauna below. In winter the whole house was heated with this system.
    The main square had both Moorish and Christian buildings set on Roman foundations. I feel sad when I see the Christian churches standing so bold and dominating on top of this sophisticated Arab culture.
    The afternoon to Casar de Cásares was again hot and challenging. But I knew it would eventually end so it was one step at a time.
    The avenue of trees leading to the town was a sight for sore eyes and we all gathered at a pretty up-market restaurant for a fabulous three course meal with wine and beer for €17.
    Tomorrow is a long stage of 33 km because the albergue at the usual half way point is closed. The group I am with will transport their bags for this leg and I think I will take the taxi as we and just walk the last 10 km. I need a shorter day to give the body a bit of recovery time.
    Experiencing the history of Spain has left me a little sad today - the story of war and human suffering too often in the name of God and religion. It’s not just in Spain but it feels more present here.
    It’s amazing that the Spanish are such warm and inclusive people after such a complex history.
    Buen Camino
    Leer más

  • Día 17

    Day 17 - Arab House Museum

    7 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This lovely museum really impressed and moved me. It seems at the moment I appreciate examples of daily life from the past rather than grand monuments, palaces and churches.
    These words come from the brochure …

    Mr José de la Torre Gentil, born in Cáceres, was the founder of this museum. He bought the building in the 1960s and made it his residence. While doing some construction work on the house he discovered the remains of an Arab dwelling erected on an ancient Roman site which dated back to the 12 century and included a thermal and heating system
    As Mr de la Torre became aware of the importance of his discovery he undertook a personal journey that would eventually lead to the inauguration of this house museum.
    This dream of his however was not easy to to fulfil: in fact it took him about 15 years to open to the public.
    During this enterprise, which he initiated at the age of 50, Mr de la Torre delved into the fields of humanities, law and Hispanic-Islamic art.
    Thanks to his dedication as well as to his travels around the world in search of help, information and resources he finally achieved his goal: to offer his visitors a unique, rigourous view of Cáceres’ Arab past.
    In one of his trips to Iraq the director of the National Museum Baghdad transferred him all his knowledge which helped Mr de la Torre inaugurate the museum in 1976, by order of the ambassador Mr Ahmed Hussain.
    Nowadays the founder’s offspring have taken over his tireless endeavour and continue to open the museum to the public so as to ensure that any curious traveller who passes by can see the outcome of the dream of a man who devoted a big part of his life to the history of this house museum.
    We hope you enjoy it.
    Leer más

  • Día 17

    Day 17 -Cáceres -Caŋaveral by bus -32 km

    7 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    (Bus - 34 km)
    Friday morning - 10.30 am - I am back at the Plaza Major in Cáseres.
    Yesterday I was feeling quite sad that I went through this old city so quickly and didn’t take the time to savour the sights, sounds, and sensations.
    So I am so very happy that I met Serge (from Brittany) at the supermarket last night and joined him on the bus to Cáceres this morning. Serge has a shorter time frame than me so after a peaceful 40 minutes sitting in Plaza Major drinking coffee (Serge) and a delicious sparkling mineral water (me), he has gone to catch his next bus leaving me to my solo wanderings around the old city. Perfect!
    I realised when I looked at my photos that I am still having an affair of the heart with Moorish culture. I didn’t take any photos of churches and there are no more mosques left.
    I had a wonderful few hours seeing the sights of yesterday again but taking time to follow the map and to soak it all in
    I was ready to leave around noon and walked back to the Bus Station to catch my next bus to Caŋaveral.
    Then in some 30 minutes I travelled what takes the Peregrinos 2-3 days to walk. I looked out at an incredibly unforgiving landscape- dry low scrub of around 2 metres and no useful shade as far as I could see. I felt for my ‘compaŋeros’ who are walking 33 km today and are still on the road as I now sit in the Bar drinking my Tinto de Verano and eating a tapas of olives. I was told that it was only in Andalusia that you get a free tapas with your drink but it seems the tradition is alive and well here in Extremadura. From what I saw from the bus this area certainly earned its name today.
    Now who remembers those mountains in the distance some days ago? Well I am now sitting at the foot of said mountains looking up! They are actually high rocky hills but will look challenging. Tomorrow I am going to walk 8.5 km just to to the next town and take it slow and steady.
    My ‘compaŋarose’ will go much further so I will bid them farewell this evening.
    Yesterday Antonio said some very insightful things about friendships, particularly on the Camino - something like - friendships are so good and nourishing; we get to know people well and get close to then. Friendships also have a life if their own and when they dissolve we part - but these good friendships don’t disappear, they live on in our hearts forever. 🥰😊🤗. I found his words shifted my perspective on all the friendships I have made over the years that seem to have disappeared - I now know they live in my heart forever.

    PS. I think the Spanish live on olives. I seem to have have eaten more olives in the past few weeks than I usually eat in a year

    PPS. I just met some is my walking companions at the next bar having lunch. They left this morning at 5.30 am and got in at 1.30 pm and walked 33 km in 8 hours. One man is 76! I call them the Spanish Supermen. Some others in the group started a bit later this morning and only just arrived at 3.30 pm.
    Leer más

  • Día 18

    Day 18 - Grimaldo - 10 km

    8 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Grimaldo is not grim 🤣
    It was only 8.5 Km to this tiny hamlet of 600 people but I got a bit lost a couple of times so I walked 10 km 🚶‍♀️
    The Albergue is a delight with tables on the footpath and an awning of grape vines.
    Today was filled with pine and oak forest. We have left the plains and are up in the start of the mountains with green trees and a stream.
    Unbelievably as I walked around this gorgeous little town I began to miss those hot and dry planes.
    Even though I didn’t appreciate it that much at the time it has been an incredible journey waking those hot dry plains.
    I met two lovely Swedish women - sisters - last night. We spent the afternoon together- lunch and vino Tinto from 1 - 4 pm (very Spanish) and have chilled out for the rest of the afternoon.
    There is no shop here so I will wait till the bar opens for food again at 8.30 pm and get a couple of bocadilla (sandwiches- but huge) to take with me tomorrow’s 20 km.
    Leer más