Camino Via de la Plata

September - October 2022
My third and longest Camino Read more
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  • 3.8kkilometers
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  • How will I find the way?

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    These days, as well as the Camino way markers there are Interactive maps that let you know which way to go. So there is little chance of getting lost, although it still happens.
    However the way markers- usually arrows or camino shells - are the (recently) traditional way you know where to go. Of course hundreds of years ago I imagine you would just head in the general direction along main roads - which were not like main roads today - asking for directions along the way.
    The Pilgrimage to Santiago is 1200 years old. I read recently that the arrows are a relatively new thing - maybe only the last 50 years if that - and are yellow because initially they used some free left-over yellow road paint which was at hand.
    Directions appear in many different ways. Here are some examples that haven’t appeared in other posts.
    .
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  • What’s in my pack

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    What you take in your pack depends on the Camino you are walking, the time of year, your gender, your age, does your body run hot or cold, the weather that particular year, your physical health and fitness, whether you will carry your pack or have it transported, and probably other things I haven’t thought of.
    However the core items are pretty much the same for everyone.

    This is what I had in my pack for the Via de la Plata / Sanabres (Sevilla to Santiago) from 22 September - 20 November 2022

    Started with -

    Clothes - general - for hot to cold ( I didn't wash every night especially as the weather got cooler)
    1 Trek zip pants
    1 lightweight shorts (I left those as the weather got cooler)
    1 long sleeve merino top
    1 short sleeve merino top
    1 light sleeveless merino top
    1 extra light T-shirt for very hot Andelucian evenings (or a light dress next time)
    3/4 leggings (only wore a few times)
    2 pairs Bridgedale Lightweight merino socks (forgot one pair at Zamora))
    1 compression socks
    2 quick dry undies
    2 bras
    1 light wind fleece
    1 light shower / wind jacket
    Lightweight gloves
    Buff
    Cap

    Purchased along the way
    Salamanca - Rain poncho - 275 g

    Zamora - clothes for colder evenings
    Lightweight Warm track pants
    Lightweight Fleece Vest

    Other
    Vitamins - various
    Sun / rain umbrella - a lifesaver
    Small towel (left my original somewhere and had to replace)
    Large scarf (left somewhere and didn’t replace)
    Toiletries - shampoo and conditioner, half a soap, toothpaste and toothbrush, face cream and body lotion, sun screen
    Minimal first aid kit - a few bandaids, a few ibuprofin, panadol and antihistamines
    Nail clippers, nail scissors, tweezers and mirror, a bit of gaffer tape, needle and thread (never used), lighter (never used) ….
    Pegless clothes line, 6 safety pins, laundry flakes (most places had laundry soap or hand soap for just socks and undies)
    Sea to Summit Ultrasil day pack
    Water bottle - plastic (for extra water, for at night and for filling the internal water bladder)

    Footwear
    Merrill MOAB 3 Mids Wide fit, with orthotics in one shoe and an alternate inner sole in the other - the second orthotic gave me a small blister by day 3
    Tebo style sandals
    Trekking poles (purchased in Sevilla) - I include these in footwear as they are really to support feet, ankles and knees.

    Sleeping
    Good quality silk sleep sheet
    Sea to Summit Traveller down sleeping bag - can be opened up to be a blanket. (425 grams)

    Pack
    Osprey Sirius 36 litre - always plenty of room for extra food
    Water bladder insert- I find it’s better to regularly take smaller drinks of water than a whole lot every hour

    What changed
    My half bar of soap ran out. I found a small shampoo and used it for body wash, hair and on occasions laundry
    I topped up my very small bottle of conditioner from a supply at an albergue
    I bought Voltarin Plus cream for my chronic foot problem.
    Purchased more anithistamines for hayfever at one point
    I had to buy more ibuprofen and paracetamol when my knee was bad for a week or so

    I found Rob’s video ‘What’s in my pack?’ really useful. Particularly the gaffer tape - I used it on my collapsing poles. 🙏🙏

    https://youtu.be/jWW7ihHr1vA
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  • Where will I sleep on VDLP in 2022?

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    On Camino we often try to find the cheapest accomodation. Many of us are on a budget and the albergue is a place to shower, eat and sleep. Having said that a warm, clean, welcoming albergue and the companionship of other pilgrims can make all the difference after a hard day.

    There are a number of Apps that will help you find accommodation. I used gronze.com. This website also has a comments section although you need to be careful as to how much weight you give to these comments. A couple of places in which I stayed had some negative comments about cleanliness and the hosts manner, which in my mind were much exaggerated. I found these places to be OK - I would still give them a pass mark - and I spent a pleasant night there.

    This Camino I have been impressed with the pilgrim accomodation - ranging in price from donativo to €20.
    The different types of accomodation include -
    ✔️ The municipal or pilgrim-only albergue’s which are often by donation. In Galicia the municipal albergues are €8. They are generally very new and of an exceptional standard. The pilgrim-only albergues are staffed by volunteers or municipal employees and are committed to the Camino. They rarely take bookings.
    ✔️ The Turistica (private) Albergues which are more like backpacker hostels and follow certain government regulations. They always cost €15. You can book ahead with these.
    ✔️ Other private albergues vary in style and standard and range, but are generally good to excellent as they are in competition with each other - generally around the €15 mark.
    ✔️ Normal ‘hostals’ and hotels which usually cost from €30 upwards for a single room with bathroom.

    The bathrooms in all the albergue I used were very modern with a good supply of hot water.

    Many albergues have lounges and fully functioning kitchens so you can buy food at the local supermarket or tiende / shop and cook a meal. Most albergues in Galicia have a kitchen but no crockery, cutlery or cooking pots. A strange state of affairs in 2022.

    Some Albergues provide a meal and/or breakfast but this was not very common on the Via and generally happens only when you are situated some distance from shops and bars. Usually the local bar is open between 7 and 8 am so you can get breakfast there - but check the night before.

    Sleeping ranges from rather cramped dorms with bunk beds (not the norm) spacious dorms with bunk beds, dorms with single beds. Sometimes there are options for twin or single rooms and of course that is more expensive. Some come with sheets, blankets and towels, and some with paper sheets which are not too bad these days. That’s where you need your own sleep sheet and sleeping bag.
    There is also normal hotel and Casa Rural accomodation which start from €35 upwards depending on the level of luxury.

    On VDLP I easily found options that fit my budget and needs for that night - which ranged from small donativo albergues all the way up to a standard hotels on occasions when they were the best options.

    Buen Camino.
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  • Preparing the body

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    These are some of the things I have done to stay fit and healthy in general and that I think helped prepare for the Camino.

    Preparing the body for a long walk like the Camino can involve some of the activities you normally do and some others that target specific Camino needs.
    You can walk a Camino without doing any preparation so if you don’t have time don’t worry.
    However with some preparation the first week to 10 days will be much more pleasant and you won’t have to wait so long to get your trail fitness.

    The feet
    There is a thing called conditioning the feet. Walking 20 + km a day every day puts demands on your feet above and beyond what you normally do. The following will help
    ✔️ Walk 5 days a week between 5 km and 20 km if possible
    ✔️Take time to get the best shoes or boots - and best socks - for you.
    ✔️ Identify any current feet issues (crossed toes, flat feet etc) and potential issues. A podiatrist can assess the health of your feet and advise on orthotics and shoes
    ✔️ Walk in bare feet - practice yoga feet (https://youtu.be/ea4MF7IqILA)
    ✔️ Do some ankle exercises- these will strengthen the muscles in your feet, ankles and legs - https://www.healthline.com/health/sprained-ankl…
    ✔️ Practice waking with poles. Used effectively they can reduce the weight on feet, ankles, knees and hips by 25% (so I was told). Walking up hill and on the flat use poles in the Nordic Walking fashion. Down hill use like walking sticks to take some of your weight and help with balance.

    The body
    ✔️ One of the best and relatively easy preparations for the body is to take alternating hot and cold showers. After your normal shower alternate 20 seconds hot with 40 seconds cold. Repeat 3-5 or more cycles. (You can start with hot/cool and work up to hot/cold). This stimulates hormesis - where your system can get rid of any body cells that are past their use by date. It also helps the body to be more adaptable to different temperatures and believe it or not switches on the vagus nerve which is your ‘rest and digest’ nerve.
    On this Camino the only time I was cold was one night when I didn’t eat enough - and that was cured by dinner. I think this practice also made my whole system stronger and more adaptable when I compare myself to previous Caminos, before I started this practice.

    ✔️ Good core body strength helps with the backpack.
    Walk with your pack a couple of times a week.
    Do some exercises to strengthen your core e.g. - https://youtu.be/dGgSI_Js_GY
    Do some hip / glute strengthening exercises
    ✔️ Check out a good body worker- chiropractor, osteopath, massage therapist to identify any particular issues that will impact how you walk or carry you pack.
    ✔️ Make sure you have your pack fitted for your body and learn how to wear it properly.
    ✔️ Find a series of stretches that you can do in Camino - and practice before hand. Doing a few targeted stretches during and after your days walking can make a huge difference to how your body feels the next day.

    Finally - relax, do what you can and don’t worry about what you can’t do.
    The main thing is to start slowly - shorter distances - plenty of breaks - and above all listen to your body. As a teacher of mine said ‘The body know how to take care of itself’.
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  • How to ‘Camino’

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    ‘Everyone walks their own Camino’

    How to walk a Camino is just as important as what you pack and the socks and boots you wear. Some Caminos are cut short because pilgrims have not considered this aspect of their pilgrimage.
    In fact people who start hard, fast and long are more likely to get blisters and injuries and abandon their Camino in the first days or week.

    Here are some hints and tips
    1. No matter how fit you think you are start a little slowly to see if you are actually Camino fit
    2. It takes about 100 km to work out how far you can comfortably walk and what you need to abandon out of your pack. If you are only walking for a short time - 100 km - take it slowly and mindfully so you can really enjoy your Camino.
    3. Think about distances. Your feet and body may be fine at 20 km but bump it up to 25 or 30 km a day and the blisters and injuries arise. Likewise you may be able to do longer distances for a few days but after a week or so the blisters and injuries appear.
    4. Plan for rest days or very short days (around two hours) to give your muscles and joints a chance to rest and repair
    5. Don’t compare yourself to others. Some can easily walk 35 km a day and enjoy it and love it. Some can walk 15 km per day for the same level of pleasure. No one is right or wrong here - it’s about what works best for the individual.
    6. Be prepared to abandon any plan you have made if the Camino demands - planning too many km’s per day or too few, or even the route. Listen to the wisdom of the Camino.
    7. Some common injuries are - twisted ankles, shin splints, tendinitis, plantar fasciitis etc
    8. Walk your own Camino. Trying to keep up with friends puts you at risk of injury. Slowing down to stay with friends can put pressure on them and gets you out of your own natural rhythm which can be frustrating and also cause injury.
    9. Just enjoy!

    A personal point of view via a quote from John Muir - American nature pioneer
    “Do you know the origin of that word saunter? It's a beautiful word. Away back in the middle ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going they would reply, 'A la sainte terre', 'To the Holy Land.' And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not 'hike' through them.”
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  • Preparation Day #1

    September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Well here I am at Triana Backpackers, the traditional accomodation for pilgrims walking the Via de la Plata from Sevilla.
    There are lots of people here but so far it seems I am the only one heading for Santiago.
    Edit- just met a man who was leaving now - I am not alone.
    I am in a women’s dorm with 5 others.
    I have had many moments of wondering what I am doing but I guess I will find out. What a great opportunity to experience the current state of my being and to continue all the practices that turn me to serenity and peace.
    Here is my current list of gratitudes
    1. On the Alhambra tour my knee got a bit sore and one of the girls pulled out a super support bandage for me - and earlier someone was lent me their phone cord to fully charge my phone while on the bus.
    2. There was a taxi rank just near my old hostel that I noticed as I got off the tour bus - so I easily collected my bags and got a cab in 5 minutes - after the big Alhambra day AND the cab was a Tesler - first time for me.
    3. Even though I arrived after 9 pm I got a bottom bunk!!!
    4. There are no snorers in my dorm
    5. I slept really well. Only 6+ hours but that will be enough for now.
    6. The late revellers and late getting-to-bedders didn’t disturb my equilibrium at all as I lay peacefully on my bed.
    After all these blessings how can I even doubt that all will be well on this Camino - and that I will be totally supported through challenges as they arise.
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  • Day 1

    Preparation Day #2

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Shopping.
    A 20 min walk to Decathlon for my walking poles - I got the fold up ones for a good price plus a really lightweight top for the initial hot days or nights and a small lightweight crossover bag for my valuables.
    Then a 25 min walk (X 2 - I got lost ) to see if I could find a new product I have been using for sleep. And yes!!!! The lovely man did have 5 HTP which is a precursor for melatonin and drops me into a deep sleep. I bought some in the UK to try and was feeling a bit lost at the thought of running out - am down to the last of that lot. Big win - Spain €5. UK £20.
    Right now having a pit stop. Figs from the fruit shop and cafe con leche from the adjacent cafe. Yum.

    On this day I also wandered into a palace (can't remember which one) built in a combination of Arabic and Christian architectural- obviously built after the expulsion/ conversion of the Moors. I’ve added some photos of the day - plus my fig.
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  • Day 1

    Via del la Plata - Day 1 - First 3 km

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Today morphed into my first Camino day.
    I went to the Cathedral to get my credential stamped. The guard was very happy and pleased to do this and wished me Buen Camino. I didn’t actually go into the Cathedral as the line to get in was very long and it was heading towards the afternoon.
    I followed my guide book and the Camino signs towards Triana thinking I would stop at the statue of St James where it says 1000 km to Santiago. However I didn’t find the statue and so headed for my hostel in Triana. So I think I have walked the first 2 km of VDLP 😅
    What I did find was a tiny Square with a small monument to the Gypsies who used to live in the Triana district. The monument has many short poems written by Gypsies who were expelled during Franco’s time - some happy and some very sad. One poem was translated to me as saying - ‘You can ask me any fact/thing you like, but please never ask me to leave Triana.’
    The Square also seems to have something to do with the Spanish Inquisition.
    Spain has had such a torturous past both long ago and recently. Yet it seems that a diverse and vibrant culture has emerged that has somehow integrated these events. This is a very superficial reflection. I am interested to read more about Spain.
    PS. Sorry about a couple of slightly blurry photos. It was after my now favourite lunch time drink - Tinto de Verano - red wine, orange juice and soda.
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  • Day 2

    Day 2 - Santiponce 8.5 km

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Sevilla - Woke up early and finalised my pack so I could send my second bag ahead to Santiago de Compostela.
    During the night the mind had a great time figuring out how expensive it would be - thinking about Australian postal costs - €50? €100? €200? There was no stopping that runaway mental train.
    What a lovely surprise - 12.5 kg cabin luggage bag cost €26!!!
    Left Sevilla at 9.30 am and walked for 2 hours 15 mins to Santiponce. The Way was well marked and easy to follow and I felt gratitude for the people who make sure the Way is well marked for pilgrims. It could also be called the Gratitude Way.
    But it was hot and my back pack felt too heavy.
    However I got to use my expensive purpose designed sun umbrella and I am soooo glad I have it.
    My first Camino challenge was that one of my new fold-up poles didn’t work properly. It kept falling apart. Luckily when I got to the Hostel i could I fix it with a tiny bit of gaffer tape (thank you Camino Forum Rob for putting it in your packing list)
    Tonight I am at the lovely Hostel Italica - initially just me: fresh, clean, air con, cooking facilities, free tea and pod coffee and with some quiet jazz playing in the background.
    After I have my shower and some lunch I will see what else I can get rid of out of my pack. Wish me luck!
    Yesterday I learnt that Santiponce was the first place the Romans settled in this area but then quite quickly moved their settlement to present day Sevilla.
    I am looking forward to seeing the Roman ruins, the monastery and the Roman Theatre. .
    After rest and shower -
    I had a 2 pm lunch at Bodeguita Reyez. I think they have a bullfighting background judging from the decor. Lots of locals having drinks. They did a great large salad and tuna and I added chips as a side. Very satisfactory.
    Later in the afternoon a young woman from Russia/Germany arrived. We had a lovely evening sharing different life stories over a simple dinner pulled together with items from the supermarket.
    Sight seeing -
    The Monastery and large Roman archeological dig were both closed in the afternoon and the Roman Theatre was a bit disappointing.
    The weather -
    In this part of Spain the temperature just increases all day starting at a cool 17-19 degrees at around 6 am in the morning and climbing to 34 degrees or more by the evening. So no wonder everything was closed.
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  • Day 3

    Day 3 - Guillena- 10.5 km

    September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Left Santiponce at around 7.30 am in the cool of the morning and arrived as Guillena just before 11.00 am.
    It was lovely walking in the early morning light with fields of subtle colours as far as the eye can see. I might just be able to walk this Camino.
    I felt pretty good and I think I could have walked another 5 km. However the next town is 18 km away so it was time to stop. Yesterday my foot hurt a bit and today it was my shoulder. My Boswellia cream came to the rescue and with some fine tuning of my pack I know it will just get easier
    Had planned to stay at Hostel Frances with a private room but came across another Albergue first. However in the south of Spain they leave a phone number on the door and you need to call them. I couldn’t figure out how to do this with my current phone plan. So Hostel Frances it is. I read that they do good food so I don’t have far to go for my late lunch.
    Short walk to the supermarket for evening snack and food for the road tomorrow - everything sorted.
    Even though this is my third Camino I am still learning how little we really need.
    Tomorrow is my first bigger day - 18 km. I’m glad I have my own room tonight so I can just relax and chill out without any distractions. I get a 6.00 am breakfast here so I will be on the road early.
    Buen Camino.
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