Carretera Austral Continued..

Day 477.

Morning didn't kick off quite to plan, my new down jacket proving so insulating it concealed the fact it had strayed across the open stove and caught on fire. To be honest after 3 weeks of using an open flame I'm surprised we've not burnt down the entire campervan, coat left partially melted but I'm still wearing it with pride.

Made some serious ground on the incredible carretera austral route today, passing quickly through Cerro Castillo, impressive views but very poor tourist info, regardless we have come to the conclusion we're all trekked out for a while anyway!

Found our first sign of civilization in the normal urban town of Coyhaique. Weird to be among so many people and real supermarkets - didn't take long to miss the wilderness once again. Thus in true efficient fashion we powered around the supermarket, swiftly saw off a cold pint in the sun and headed out to find a spot for the night. We've certainly got some drinking to do too after I let limbster loose in the wine isle - 8 bottles in 6 days might be a challenge..

In no time we found a picturesque riverbank out of town, surrounded by green hills and perfect for what we had in store tonight. Got slightly carried away by the cheese selection vs the typical sliced burger cheese and invested in a cheese board, I say invested because boy did it go a long way. Sat and watched the sun come down out of the back of the camper, over indulging on cheese and vino tinto - it would be an understatement to say limbster was chuffed!

Enjoyed a peaceful lie in to the sound of the river, after a quick bathe we were refreshed & ready to depart and continue to north. Fortunately the good weather has helped a lot - mainly in keeping us clean and fresh. Today's dip in a nearby glacier lake being a good example, cold but oh so worth it when the sun is out! Celebrating as also by some miracle managed to finally lock down our place on the 4 hour car ferry in two days time, something that has been a continuing nuisance for me especially.

Nestled at a spot close to the Quelat glacier for the night, so hot were now sat half naked in the back of the camper - limbster has only gone and got herself burnt and so opted for the shade while I went diving in the water nearby. Quickly dawned that we'd now reached the sea, albeit amongst numerous fjords and so the clean feeling achieved from the fresh lake earlier was quickly replaced by the smell of sea weed - disaster.

Rather unusual encounter with the local rangers tonight. Just tidied away dinner and sat down with a drink when we were greeted by not one but 4 of the local rangers, who formed an orderly line directly in front of us - hand shake introductions and all but with very little to say. A brief 'algo mas' and they were on the way - an experience indeed. Note to self - maybe a little less rum before I attempt to handle the hot dogs next time around..

The weather couldn't last forever and the following morning the clouds swooped in, right over our planed glacier hike that day, it wasn't to be and swiftly changing course we continued north opting to make a cosy day out of it yet. Found one of the best wild spots to date, crystal blue river and beach in the forest all to ourselves. Wasted no time setting up with David Attenborough on the laptop and cracking out the marshmallows and cerveza - cloudy days have their benefits too it seems!Read more