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Porto!
  • Tom Hixson
  • Tom Hixson

Porto!

A short but fine adventure by Tom Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 16, 2026
    Tom HixsonPorto!Traveler
    Lisbon train station

    Arrival in Porto

    June 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We traveled by train today from Lisbon to Porto, a city we haven't visited in 30 years and what a difference those decades made. As we await our residence visas, we will check-out different areas in Portugal before we decide where we want to settle permanently.

    First impressions: the city rests on both sides of the Douro river about 5 miles from the Atlantic Ocean (at Foz). The city has more old crumbling buildings mainly because they were not affected by Lisbon's 1755 earthquake which destroyed most of its medieval structures. Having said that, Porto has many crumbling buildings, some of which are being restored and some amazing churches and grand public structures from the 16th through the 20th century.

    Apparently there's a rivalry between Lisbon and inhabitants with both sides saying the other doesn't speak proper Portuguese, that Porto folk are too calm, the Lisboans too uptight, the weather in Porto is too cold for Lisboans, too hot for Porto people, and so on.
    Where they're similar: lots of tourists, lots of digital nomads, and lots of expats in both cities.    Read more

  • Tom HixsonPorto!Traveler
    Lota of elegant buildings have been converted to shops, restaurants, and apartments
    Typical gilded interior of many Porto churches.Azulejos adorn most Porto church exteriorsAfter a long hike up the hillLivraria Lello exteriorLello staircase1Lello staircase2Have a franchesina, but don't forget to take your statins!

    Porto Overview

    June 17 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Porto overview
    Porto definitely has a different vibe when compared to Lisbon--much more laid back, and although the locals might disagree, Porto does not seem quite as cosmopolitan as Lisbon. Porto is justifiably proud of its wine and Port wine, and that is certainly the focus of many tourists who do river cruises up the Douro to sample great vintages along the way.
    Everyone touring here has to stop by Livraria Lello, the famous bookstore which JK Rowling loved and infused with enough cash to handle much needed repairs. Of course a good bit of the bookstore shelves is devoted to Harry Potter books in a gazillion languages. It is a beautiful building but the folks who line up to gain entry (15 euros a head) are not here to buy books but to take selfies on the fantastic staircase and buy tshirts, shopping bags, and coasters, all evidence of their literary adventure.

    The churches here, spanning many centuries, are amazing and there are a lot of them. The newer churches (and by that I mean after 1550) generally have walls of blue tiled azulejos on the exterior and massive altars encrusted with gold brought in from Brazil.
    Dining in Porto also differs from Lisbon in that they favor traditional Portuguese dishes while international cuisine, though available, is not as widely appreciated. Porto has a few local specialties, but the "franchesina" sandwich stands out as unique if not troubling to local cardiologists. Take a slab of roast beef,add sliced pork and then some linguica sausage and pork belly or ham, add lots of cheese and stuff this all into a large sandwich roll. Compress it down to a manageable height (like a panini) and cover it with a tomato and beer sauce (some add port too), topping the whole mess off with a fried egg. And then call the ambulance.    Read more

  • Tom HixsonPorto!Traveler
    Friends James and Carlos with Kevin and Tom
    2Panorama of Porto along the Douro1Local caporeira event1Foz lighthouseFoz beach

    Neighborhoods in Porto

    June 18 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was spent looking at different neighborhoods in Porto: there is a wide variety of choices here, which include: the central district characterized by heavy tourist traffic; Cetofeita an "up and coming" neighborhood which we found a bit shabby as was Bonfim-- --both neighborhoods are popular with 20-something backpackers and digital nomads; Ribiera area is much nicer with great views of the river; and Foz is quite nice and on the ocean, somewhat reminiscent of Carmel or certain southern California beach communities, but it's a pricey area in general.

    James and Carlos are friends of our friend Jim in SF and we connected for lunch one day; they shared their experiences living as expats in Porto for the last 8 years which was helpful. They also organize an expat group of more than 100 locals and they invited us to meet up with the group that night at a local tavern which was fun. Again, we met lots of expats and learned a great deal more about life in Portugal and Porto in particular.

    Coming back from dinner Friday night we saw a large gathering of folks engaged in caporeia exercises, a phenomenon with West African and Brazilian roots. I see it described as a dance, an athletic event, a spiritual encounter. It's hard to describe but it's certainly exciting to watch!

    We leave Porto on Saturday but will be back in August for another look and to catch a peak at the near total solar eclipse on August 12.

    In the meantime, safe travels!    Read more

    Trip end
    June 20, 2026