traveled in 12 countries Read more Guernsey
  • Day 506

    To Poses and on to Rouen

    August 11, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    On our way down river from the lock we stopped for shopping at Les Andelys again lots of timbered houses, very pretty also the ruins of Chateau Gaillard on the hill over looking the town. Sadly still very hot and that and the fact that the boat was moored on a river cruise boat stop next to the traveling circus made us decide against the trek uphill. After Andelys more timbered properties and a number of low islands, we stopped on the quay in Poses as we found an overhanging tree that would shade us for the rest of the day, a very quaint and affluent little village but it being Monday the restaurant and museum were shut, unfortunately so was the capitainerie but that was Covid related so we showered onboard. Today we passed through our last river lock at Amfreville and we had to share with a commercial barge, I do wish they would reply to my radio calls, I know my French isn’t great but the barge we ended up sharing with was moored further upstream and arrived after the lock light had gone green fortunately John is still checking behind him so noticed it arriving and we reversed out of its way. It wasn’t far from Amfreville to Rouen especially with the help of some current we averaged around 7knots, we saw a few commercial vessels no other pleasure craft, lots of islands and seagulls! Normally I think there would have been a lot of small ferries going from bank to bank but not at the moment. We arrived in Rouen around 14:00, marina office not open till 15:00 then an hour wait to be allocated a mooring. Then off to see the yard about our mast, no joy English speaking staff member Christophe has left, come back tomorrow. Still hot so plug in and relax.Read more

  • Day 504

    Hot Hot Hot

    August 9, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Oh boy this is a heck of a heat wave mid to high 30s from 11:00-19:00, it’s now 20:30 and down to 33degs! As you can probably imagine we really aren’t doing much, by 14:00 we’re shattered. We travelled from Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, with its many many barge houseboats, further downstream. There are now fewer potential stopping places if your boat is more than 10m long, and that coupled with a lot of the smaller museums etc being closed has meant we’ve had few opportunities to stop and visit, the heat also makes it difficult to motivate yourself to ride or walk any distance. Yesterday we travelled 32 miles down the river and saw about 10 big barges and one British pleasure boat. We ended up at Port Ilon, a marina in a back water lake that appeared to be in the middle of nowhere, it would have been idyllic in normal weather conditions but as it was with electricity we could at least plug in a/c which meant that we could get a little sleep. We’re not sure how the Brit will get on, he had no idea who the VNF were or that most of the canals linking Nothern and Southern France were closed pending more rain. Nor did he know what marinas were available in Paris or where to buy fuel. He had internet but no documents, we tried to help out in shouted conversations from boat to boat. I thought we perhaps had not planned enough but well ...... On the journey we passed Limay see photo 2. We were confused at first until we realised the older foremost bridge had had an arch demolished so that boats could pass through and another newer higher bridge built behind it.
    Today we passed Roche-Guyon where there is a Troglodyte church and dwellings, (cave houses) these I would have liked to see close up but never mind. We stopped for lunch in Vernon (no shade for boat or we would have stayed) and I went for a short stroll around, saw the church with some modern stained glass, lots of timbered buildings and the Garden of Arts considered crossing the bridge to Vernonete but as no shade decided against it and watched children playing the the fountains instead, wishing I was young enough to join in. After lunch we continued and started looking for shade after another 15km we found a bit on a loading station just below Notre-Dame de la Garenne lock and are just hoping they don’t start work too early in the morning and that a boat doesn’t arrive during the night! These two longer days mean we now only 80km from Rouen and our mast!
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  • Day 502

    Conflans St Honorine

    August 7, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Seen some interesting houses as we’ve travelled along the Seine and some even more interesting ‘boats’. I use this term loosely they are on the river and seem to be floating but are not what a Channel Island resident thinks of when you say boat. The Seine is certainly busier than we’ve seen before but it’s almost all commercial craft a few pleasure boats but and this is probably a bonus, very few tourist/cruise boats. It’s definitely a bonus today as we are moored on one of their pontoon stops. We stopped here in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine at the confluence of the Seine and Oise to visit the barge and waterways museum and we stayed because it is just too damn hot to do anything. The heat started rising on Wednesday and each day has been worse than the one before today reached 38 and now at 17:30 its still 36. We might get some sleep tonight but I’m not holding out much hope. The museum was really interesting showing the evolution of the boats used on the canals and how the canalization of the rivers was achieved.Read more

  • Day 501

    Leaving Paris

    August 6, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We left early ish at 8:30 to catch the lights on Pont de Sully. There is a one way system around Notre Dame and as a pleasure boat we are only allowed along one particular route and that is single direction with downstream boats getting a green light between 8:35 and 8:50. Our book recommended we go early to avoid the worst of the traffic, we weren’t worried about that as there really isn’t that much traffic at the moment but it was due to get seriously hot so the sooner we arrived and could hide inside the better.
    Well seeing all the bridges, must be one every 300m or so and the various sights from the boat was something. Due to the meanders although we travelled 45km we were only 15km from Paris when we decided to stop, we chose Rueil-Malmaison as there was a pontoon in the shade and the temp was rising. From here we took a short stroll to the Impressionists Park. Here we also saw one the boats that we had seen in St Dizier back when we were traveling along the Marne.
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  • Day 500

    Day 3 Palace of Versailles

    August 5, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    OK so today’s goal is to get to Versailles using Paris public transport. On the map it looked easy train line C from Gare de Austerlitz direct to Gare de Versailles Rive Droit. Austerlitz bridge was the one we passed under just before turning into the Arsenal lock so nice and close and the Versailles station is the closest to the Palace. Damn train line C is undergoing work and terminates at Javel. All is not lost we can use the Metro to get to ‘Javel a Citroen’ then walk to Javel, actually that was quick and easy it was getting from the train station at Austerlitz to the correct Metro line that was long and complicated. In the end the journey took just over an hour which at just after 9am was relatively cool and spacious, but masks must be worn on all public transport. At Versailles there were a lot more people because you now book specific time slots to see the Chateau, we started off walking around the 800hectare gardens and park. We didn’t actually have time for the park but enjoyed most of the gardens very structured with lots of statues and pathways. Then to the 2 Trianon’s and their gardens. The Trianon’s both Petit and Grand were built so the Royals had a less formal place to retreat to, the Petit was originally Marie Antoinette’s then future wives, the Grand more for the Kings and Emperor. Even though they were supposedly less formal all the rooms were big and each building had a hall of mirrors, a major sign of wealth at the time. There was also the Queen’s Hamlet, Marie Antionette had a small pretend village built there was a dairy, farm, mill, fisherman’s cottage and her house. Not everywhere was fully open, we could only see certain of the Trianon’s rooms and couldn’t go in the Hamlet properties due to Covid. In the Versailles Palace I think all of the usual rooms were open but only some are set up as rooms people lived in, some are now used to display paintings of the various Royal family members. My lasting impression is of gold and excess, there was a lot of gilding both internally and externally and everything was just so OTT, I am not in the least bit surprised the peasants revolted. The journey back to the boat was a killer, the temperature had crept up all day and reached 35, being on trains and tubes wearing masks was horrendous. Forecast is for the temperature to increase over the next few days! Can’t wait, not!Read more

  • Day 499

    Paris Day 2 and more things to see

    August 4, 2020 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we were adventurous and decided to try using our bikes and cycle around, wow that was an experience I was thankful each time we successfully negotiated a junction. Sometimes there are lanes for us, with special bike traffic lights other times just a section of the road with bikes painted on it other times nothing at all and almost all No Entry signs are ‘sauf cycle’ except bikes. Now a days cycle also means electric bikes, electric scooters, skateboards, roller skates, segways like I say it was an experience.
    First of all today we were off to the Eiffel Tower, we walked up to the second level then got a lift to the summit. The views over the city were incredible, the buildings that we saw yesterday that looked so imposing at ground level were insignificant from the top of the tower. Even today it’s an impressive bit of engineering. John was wondering how much longer it will last, how will they replace sections? From here to the Arc de Triumph and the posh upper part of the Champs Elysees. From here we were aiming for the Sacre Coeur and Montmartre, well we got there eventually but definitely not by the most direct route. We saw Mairie de Paris and Eglise de Madeleine, Gare St Lazaire, Boulevard Lafayette on the way not necessarily in that order those were just the place I remember where we stopped to establish where we were and where we were trying to go. After wandering around Montmartre looking at the sketch artists, portrait painters and caricaturists and seeing all the fabric shops we decided enough was enough and we would head back via the Pompidou Centre and the Bastille to the boat.
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  • Day 498

    Paris, we made it!!

    August 3, 2020 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    From Joinville it was only a couple of km to the Seine and the outskirts of Paris. It’s a lot more industrial than I expected, with building suppliers and multiple cement works right on the river banks and sand barges going backwards and forwards. The Arsenal Port is at the Bastille on the eastern edge of central Paris and that’s our base for sightseeing from. The first day we walked along the Left Bank from the Natural History Museum to Palais des Invalides not down on the river bank but higher up to see more of the buildings. We passed Nôtre Dame with its scaffolding, Palais de Justice, Monnaie de Paris, Institute de France, Orsay Museum, Legion of Honour Museum, with pictures of medals and names of recipients. We can see the bridges as we leave. We crossed the river using Pont Alexandre III, very ornate with gold leaf statues etc. Walking past Grand Palais and Petit Palais to Champs Elysees. Then down towards Place de la Concorde and our most expensive coffee to date, but it was good. Next we walked through the Jardin de Tuileries to the Louvre for our days cultural dose. The pictures and statues etc were impressive, Mona Lisa a bit of a let down but we’ve seen it now, but I was more taken with the building itself and size of the rooms and halls, the decorative ceilings etc. That said the French Crown Jewels were worth seeing as was Venus de Milo and the Sphinx. After almost 2hours we gave up and headed to the Hotel de Ville and Tourist Information then back to the left side over Isle St Louis and the Latin Quarter to see the Pantheon and surrounding buildings. Teatime and a rest for our feet then bed. There are just so many stunning buildings almost everywhere you look.Read more

  • Day 497

    Hitting the wall but no running involved

    August 2, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After visiting the market in Langry, the best so far, produce looked wonderful and clothes better than usual tat, we stopped for the obligatory coffee and people watched. Then down river we wandered to Nogent sur Marne, saw some impressive homes and even though we were only 15km out of Paris some lovely wild areas. We also saw a loaded barge coming very slowly towards us on a very narrow piece of the canalised river but we found a wider section and just waited for it to pass, so glad we weren’t the cruiser stuck behind it, it really was s...l....o....w.... We stopped on the Halte Public in Nogent and walked around town and visited a museum that had lots of those old sepia postcards of the area, showing the 1910 flood, activities taking place on the river and the main focus of each of the surrounding areas be it agriculture, industry, tourism. Unfortunately once we returned to the boat, another cruiser arrived and told us they been told they could moor where we were, I called the capitainerie and the Marina rep came to us and said we couldn’t stay, the marina, and the halte public were all closed due to Covid. I pointed out that he had told someone else to use the space but he said we must go.
    We travelled further downstream looking for possible moorings, nothing and Joinville Port were not answering the phone. We try to look around the Port for a space and as we are easing along on tick over CRUNCH CRUNCH. Obviously the sign indicating that there was a depth of 1.80 was wrong we were stuck Bugger. Reverse didn’t work, so next we tried putting out the secondary anchor so we could winch ourselves off, the anchor wouldn’t hold. OK we’re not out of ideas just yet, we detach the 40kg Rocna from the chain and tie it on with rope and carefully lower it onto the kayak to be paddled out by John and tipped overboard. He manages this without tipping the entire kayak a feat in itself. The Rocna holds so now we need to winch ourselves off using it, well the hand winches aren’t going to be any use so we rig the anchor rope between the starboard stern bollards up forward to the bow bollard and back to the electric anchor winch. Fingers crossed 🤞. John is on the throttle and I have a foot on the winch control and am pulling the anchor rope to stop it slipping, no movement, more revs, nothing then shudder and we’re moving a little more and we’re off. Now to make sure we don’t snag the rope in the prop and can release the anchor from the rock it’s embedded itself into. All change I’m on the controls John’s on the anchor and ...... it’s up.
    It took us about 2 hours but we are free, we get a standing ovation from the spectators in the Port. We tie up on the commercial boat waiting pontoon exhausted 😩 but happy 😊 and have well earned drink.
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  • Day 495

    Ferte to Meaux then Langry sur Marne

    July 31, 2020 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Yesterday was an absolute scorcher, it reached 42degs and was still 39degs at 9:30 in the evening. In the morning, from our lovely quiet mooring on the halte behind the tiny island, we walked to the market at Ferte sous Juarre and bought some delicious raspberries and strawberries before setting off. Oh yes the previous evening we had also wandered into town and chose to have a drink at the bar frequented by the local in the process of changing genders from male to female, it seems he had just had Botox in his lips. We had a good day on the river meandering backwards and forwards through every compass bearing. We stopped for lunch by a lock and tried to visit the pumping station museum next door that moves water from the Marne to the Canal d’Ourcq but it was closed. However it was unbearably hot, we were sweating standing still so after struggling for a few more kilometers we followed the locals example and had a quick dip in the river, it was surprisingly refreshing. We couldn’t stay in for long as we had left the boat drifting and it was getting close to the bank. Our initial plan was to stop at Poincy but there was no space so we continued to Meaux. It’s not a tourist town and when we first arrived to add insult to injury, we couldn’t get the electricity and water to work, but the technician arrived to fix it, at 17:00 on a Friday, we were surprised. The next morning it was thankfully a lot cooler, we visited the market. After missing the markets for ages we got two in quick succession. Then off we go, it remained overcast, weaving around again going through 4locks and the Chalifert tunnel until we reached Langry sur Marne where we were going to stop just for lunch but one of the other boat captains persuaded us to stay the night. We met two other British boats that have had to change their plans due to canal closures. We have had a walk around town seen the sights and visited the church, there was a wedding taking place, seemed weird that we could walk in but the stain glass windows were beautiful.
    There is another market in the morning that we will visit before we leave, we are now only 26km from the confluence with the Seine.
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