Omi-Hachiman – A day in the country

After a day at ‘home’ yesterday visiting the temple, we decide to venture further afield. While PC caught up on his beauty rest, I searched the internet for places on the JR line (make use of the passes I thought) for a suitable place. Quiet a bit of choice within an hour of Kyoto but I found, thanks to my friends Google and Travel Advisor, a city called Omi-Hachiman, situated on the largest lake in Japan, Lake Biwa. 40 mins each way on JR and local train (and a bus thrown in on way back). Cable car to the top of the hill promising ‘magnificent views of Lake Biwa plus old wooden boat rides up and down the town's canals. Great reviews on TA.
As promised, Omi-Hachiman is about 40 mins from Kyoto. Unfortunately, no-one spoke any English on our arrival and there was no information office, so after wondering around for a bit we hopped a taxi and showed him the photo on my phone of the old wooden boat and canals. Proving that a picture is worth a thousand words (Japanese or English), within seconds we were hurtling down the lanes of this older city to the back docks of town and safely deposited at the shrine, the cable car entrance, and where, to our delight were also the boats and canals. All in one glorious tourist trap couple of acres.

The shrine was completely surrounded by GIANT chrysanthemum seriously, over 4 feet tall, all in pots. They were also bonsai style, magnificent. There were also little kids, from around 3 to 6 years of age who were dressed in beautiful Japanese traditional attire, all awaiting their turn to be blessed by the Monks. Once blessed, they came out and were allowed to ‘ring the bell’.

Along with too many others, we were shoved into the cable car and heaved to the top, where we did indeed (after much of a hike) find the magnificent views of Lake Biwa and the entire city of Omi-Hachiman. You buy your tickets on the way in and wait for the car to be as full as a goog, and then you’re off. As always in Japan, everyone has a job – so at the top of the mountain is another yellow uniformed staffer to help you exit said car. The cable car travels up over 160 metres high over very rough terrine. It’s a bit hairy looking down (which I tried not to do). You cannot make your way to the top without the car. Which is why I was surprised when second staffer asked for our tickets before letting us back on. Did he think we walked up? I said to PC.

Off to the canals and a wander around. Gorgeous traditional old homes on the canals. Heading down to find the boat on ramp, I spot two long haired chihuahuas in little pink coats. One blonde the other a red head. I thought, oh shit, here we go, they are going to start doing that really annoying high pitch barking that PC takes as a personal insult each time a dog barks. Next, I see him pick one up for a cuddle! Well, I’ll be. Never have I seen this in the nigh on three decades we have been together. Then he puts it down and picks up the other for a cuddle! You don’t like dogs I state. Yes, I do he says. I just don’t like barking dogs. Can we get one I say. Yes, was the reply, as long as it doesn’t bark! Praise be.

Boat ride was a bit ‘not for us’ when we discovered a) it didn’t have any seats and b) it took 11 people (on a boat built, in my expert opinion for 4 to 6). Giving that a wide berth (excuse the pun) we decided to walk along the canals instead and found our selves in front of a lovely café serving the best Omi beef in Japan. Throwing the budget to wind, we shared a do it yourself bbq (cooked at the table by ourselves) on yet another fabulous Nippon invention, the cast iron mini hibachi with a sizzle plate and fired by something that looks like a large t-light. We have to get two of these says PC. That we will, says me.

The Japanese are the politest and most helpful people we have ever experienced. Twice, while attempting to order two woman left their tables and came up and asked if they could assist us with speaking with the waitress. Doesn’t happen in Australia. They are kind, gentle people with a high standard of ethics and culture that leaves ours for dead. They still ‘dress’ when going out and always look immaculately attired, as to do the children. Everyone works here. There is no unemployment unless by choice. I reckon instead of having ‘gap’ years, our youth should be shipped over to Nippon to live with a Japanese family for a year and learn some basics about humanities, work and cultural ethics!

Back home in a couple of ticks, we have our now late afternoon rest and gin and tonic, catch up on the latest goss on Facey, do a spot of emailing and then decide on dinner arrangements. If you lived the rest of your life in Kyoto, you would never be able to visit every restaurant there are so many choices. Back to every reliable Trip Advisor and wanting to stay close to home tonight after our rather strenuous day, we opt for a 5 star rated Teppan, place 3 mins away.

It deserved it’s rating. No English again but we managed a great hot plate meal with PC deciding to have a bowl of French fries for dessert. In Hiroshima we experienced their version of the Okiwakana pancake which was lovely, but JayJay’s Kyoto version was without the noodles and much like the one PC and I make at home. But better of course! Tomorrow is our last day and we are off to walk the path of the Philosopher before we leave for the airport by train.Read more