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Japan in Autumn 2018

October - November 2018
A 13-day adventure by Dani Read more
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  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 1

    Arrived Tokyo

    October 31, 2018 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Long flight. Made longer by 2 year old sitting right behind us and doing all things 2 year olds do. One hour into flight, Paul decides he can't do another 8 hours of the noise (and neither could the lovely lady sitting next to us) so asked if we could move. So, from row 10 to row 45 we went. Not totally over the moon after paying for 'up front seats' but figured a tantrum from PC was worse than the 2 year old so move we did. All in all, successful but tiring mission - found our way out of customs, onto train to Tokyo, cab to hotel and then, dinner.

    Unbelievable food - no English here. Just pointed to the pictures and enjoyed the most amazing sashimi; hotpot of beef and tofu and coal fired chicken. Tiny little place, with the most gorgeous owner, who clearly has not been limited by the Oz gov's restaurant's 'wine guide' of 110 mls. Much to our delight. The room, as is normal in Tokyo, is squeezy. But comfy. It's way past this little ducks bedtime. Day one tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 2

    Tokyo - Mastering the Metro

    November 1, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Still beautifully warm here in Tokyo with just the odd cold breeze to keep us on our toes. Found our way to the other side of Toyko by underground metro. Did really well once we worked out the exits were exits and not the way to the platforms. Only went the wrong direction once and although Paul tried pointing the finger at my lack of directional skills, I quickly pointed out that it was I who suggested the train should have been heading in the other direction. A quick 'hop off, over to the other side and back on again, fixed that slight hiccup. Finally found our destination to find that it was closed, so back we headed to the fish markets for the breakfast of champions - Sashimi and beer (followed by a rather fantastic dairy whip ice cream because my guru Adam Liaw says they are the best in the world. And he is right.Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 2

    Tokyo - The Emperor's Gardens

    November 1, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    In order to work off the beer and ice cream (we figure fish doesn't count in the scheme of things) we hiked it up the road a bit to the Emperor's Gardens. Beautiful and historical - gorgeous little Japanese ladies caring for the pathways in their little matching smocks (they look like little Holly Hobby dolls). A good hike back to the station and then a cab to hotel where we had to rest the now weary feet. Off to dinner with friends shortly, and tomorrow Hiroshima!Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 2

    Tokyo to Hiroshima

    November 1, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Left Tokyo after a fantastic night with Koichi and Nao who took us to a Teppinaki place near where they live. Called in to some crazy Italian bar on the way home for a night cap where the owners treated us like gold. Red wine and blue cheese platter, surrounded by a decor that would have been more at home as a Swedish Copper Art shop. Today we made our way to Hiroshima. Not without the normal hiccup or two managing the trains - but, we are getting better. In a five hour run, we managed only to get on the wrong train once. It just happened to be the ONLY train that the JR Pass doesn't cover - the Super Train they call it. Magnificent. Paul wanted to stay on it until we were thrown off but being a typical Virgo and 'always doing the right thing' I elected for us to jump ship at the next station and wait for the train we were meant to get on. So along it comes, 30 mins or so behind the Super space shuttle version and she's as full as a goog. Seriously. Jammed to the hilt. We had to stand in the entrance along with 6 others and our suitcases. For supposedly a 3 hour trip before we changed trains.

    We devised a plan: we would get off at the next stop, and wait for the 10.08 (not peak hour) and reserve two seat on it. Well, luckily, the next stop (an hour into the journey) half the carriage departed and we able to sit the rest of the journey to Hiroshima. Now I hate to point this out, but if PC had followed my very strict and totally worked out 'how to catch the right train in Japan' procedure, none of this would have happened. So, new rule - no arguing - just let me do the train thing (Ms Cathy P, your words of wisdom from our last trip here keep me on the straight and narrow - if they say the train leaves at 9.08am - they MEAN it leaves at 9.08am!!). Hiroshima here we come.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    1
    Day 3

    HIROSHIMA – MIYAJIMA ISLAND

    November 2, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Check in complete we are advised by the non-english speaking receptionist to walk down to the tram and take it to the ferry port, for a 15 min boat road to Miyajima Island, the sacred place for one of Japan’s oldest shrines. Within minutes I’ve developed a blister, so we hunt around for a shop to buy a pair of socks and I’m now sporting a particularly unattractive ankle sock, in non-flattering grey with a lilac frill (because PC turned up his nose at the $16 pair in the Adidas shop). Find tram to destination. We have arrived fairly late in the day, so are keen to get to the island sometime this century, which we now realise is most unlikely on this mode of transport. It’s like a sardine can, filled to the brim. We are sitting backwards and can’t see anything plus, it is an ‘all stops’ number. Being once again ever so grateful that someone invented Google, I deduce that from our current position (stationary, because the driver has to take the money, count the tickets, and then sort the money before moving on at snail’s pace to the next stop) we would take approximately 1.7 hours to complete our journey to the ferry port. No brainer. We have to get off this baby, so jump ship and head to the train station. 30 mins later we find the ferry and board in time to have a couple of hours of sunlight and see this beautiful place.

    Depending on the tides, one can walk out to the shrine or if high tide, view it from the shore. The island boasts a huge market place full of restaurants and bars and souvenir shops but most famously is the huge oysters cooked in their shell on open coals, which are served with any number of sauces and flavours. Great with beer. Gorgeous sake shops, restaurants and even an ‘owl’ café – lots of bambies running around – all up, very impressive and worth seeing. Back to hotel (sans tram ride) for hot showers and a bottle of cold white giving us renewed energy to find a place for dinner. Not that easy in a city with little English, but we managed to find a ‘do it yourself’ bbq joint (literally underground) with little gas burners on the tables and a selection of fine ingredients.

    No disasters today. Only one hiccup up with the trains. Off to a flying start I feel.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 4

    HIROSHIMA – DAY 2 – RABBIT ISLAND

    November 3, 2018 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Heading out to Rabbit Island today, a train, a bus and a ferry. What could possibility go wrong?
    Okunoshima is a small island located in the Inland Sea of Japan. There are campsites, walking trails and places of historical interest on the island. But, as great as all that is – we were there to see the bunnies! Once 2000 of them, they have been culled to around 700 and come in all manner of colours and varieties. Many happy to be hand fed, lots of them hiding in burrows under bushes to get away from heat of the sun, some hiding in drains and others just laying around next to the road.
    It has a dark history though – in 1929 the rabbits were brought to the island and used to test the effectiveness of the poison gas used in chemical weapons. They say that workers released the rabbits at the end of the war and they were left to fend for themselves and breed freely. The down side of the island becoming a tourist attraction is that the bunnies’ life span has been shortened to an average of 2 years due to visitors feeding them food that is inconsistent with their nutritional needs.
    Having lost his fav cap on the flight over, PC discovers with much joy, a large box on the reception desk of the information centre sporting ‘lost and found’ items and secures himself a ‘new’ piece of headwear, which he is determined I fear, to proudly wear the entire trip. Ho Hum. Ditching the bottoms of his cargo pants due to the heat, we continue on our mission to walk the island. We are surrounded by the most magnificent ocean and outer islands ever seen. It’s so quiet, hardly any vessels on the water, just miles and miles of crystal, clear blue waters and uninhabited islands. Looks like Thailand minus the throngs of people.
    Heading to the only hotel on the island for a sticky beak, we venture through the items on display while PC decides if he wants one of the t-shirts on display. Deciding they were too expensive we call it quits and begin the walk back to the ferry, only to discover PC no longer has his prescription sun glasses on his person. Now being worn by previously mentioned rabbit. Rush around, asking staff if anyone has handed them in (very unsuccessful – they thought we wanted to buy a pair of sun glasses!) we give up the ghost and head out. Great, day 3 and now we need an English speaking guide dog to assist his Lordship around.
    Time to head back the way we came, ferry to mainland – bus to train, train to hotel. Sounds such a simple task really. Get back to mainland after one hour wait for ferry (had the wrong timetable) to discover the bus is another 1.5 hrs off. Go to only taxi driver and get quote. 5000Y he says (about $70). Start accosting people at bus stop (all appear to be looking as dismayed as us) and suggest to any one who could understand us that we grab the only taxi and share the cost. A lovely couple from Warsaw on their honeymoon jumped in and we had a great chat with them about what’s going on in their country and a very pleasant trip back to station.
    Awaiting the train PC starts feeling the chill and decides to put his cargo pants back to together. Anyone who remembers our Europe blog will now be thinking, this sounds familiar. Sadly. And yes, you guessed it – after a frustrating ten minutes trying to get the zippers to co-operate, PC becomes so frustrated he actually pulls off the zipper tag, rendering the left leg of the pants to forever be a short. So, we now have his ONLY pair of pants for the entire trip (did I not say to pack another pair???) useful as shorts only. First the hat, then the sunnies. Now the cargos. It’s day three. If he keeps this up, I’ll be bringing him home naked.
    Finished the evening by joining some fellow travellers from Norway for a fantastic version of the Hiroshima pancake (different to the one I make). Great night. Lovely people. Father and son travelling together to celebrate the end of his studies in Brisbane.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 5

    Onward to Aso

    November 4, 2018 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We've a long trip today from Hiroshima to Aso. We are heading down to one of the most southern islands of Japan, to see Mt Aso and do a gorge walk among other things. We head to the station to JR office to reserve seats for this trip and the next ports of call. Finally on train for the 4 to 5 hour journey. Stopping at Kumamoto to change to a regional train, we should be there around 3pm. Aso is the middle of nowhere so we've booked a car to get us to all the sites we wish to experience. Our accommodation, described as one of the better hotels in Aso, has it's own private onsen, a restaurant and positioned close to heaps of restaurants and convenient stores etc. Two hours into the train ride, PC says 'where's the folder? In your backpack says me. Nope, he says. Look in mine: look in my suitcase; drag large suitcase from hiding place at back of train, open (visualise exploding suitcase with smalls and other personals now all over floor and seats); stuff everything back in and........try not to panic.

    The 'folder' has all our documents in it; itinerary, flights, hotel contact details, maps, pre-bought tickets to things such as the aquarium in Osaka, all the receipts thus far into the trip but MOST importantly, my international driver's licence. Without it, the hire car is not happening, meaning the entire effort to get to Aso just went out the window. You can hire a driver at $400 per day - but apart from that, we're pretty screwed. PC is now in a total state. Give Valium with small slug of scotch (our go to travel tip when things start to go awry) and pop him back in his seat while I phone the hotel to see if said folder is on the bed. Nope they advise, not there. We have no idea what happened to it and can only assume it is sitting on some train station seat somewhere. Ho Hum. Again.

    Meanwhile, we arrive at our change over point, lug all the luggage out of the carriage (you now know why it's actually called 'luggage) and down to the regional line where we hop on to a little local puffing billy arrangement for an hour or so. Hop off. We then are told to exit the building and find the bus. The what? The bus she says again. What happened to the train to Aso says PC? Earthquake. What earthquake? We inquire. Arrrr, earthquake from 2017....no fix yet. Right oh, what time bus. Arrrr, 1 hour 40 mins. To get there we say? No, till bus comes.
    You can go shopping over there she says. Right. Because we both love shopping and that's the first thing we'd think to do when stranded in the middle of nowhere with all this luggage. So we did as instructed and went straight to supermarket and bought a large bottle of scotch and two bottles of wine (for later at hotel, or for later where ever we ended up). Finally arrive by bus to Aso Station. So relieved. Grab a taxi, give directions, and find hotel is like 30 ks away. Driver was 90. No, I'm actually serious. He was 90. Everyone has a job in Japan. They work until they literally drop (and I'm soooo hoping his time is not up while transporting us to the hotel). He can't find it so rings his wife who offers suggestions. On arrival into the car park the meter says 20,000 Yen. By the time he actually parked the car (Ten 3 point turns) the meter says 25,000 Yen. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. We wouldn't let him help with the bags in case he broke something or carked it. So, here we are finally at our 'onsen' hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan in Autumn 2018
    Day 5

    Wanna see a grown man cry?

    November 4, 2018 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Bidding farewell to our octogenarian taxi driver (and hoping he made it home in one piece) we head towards what we think is our hotel only to find ourselves in the middle of a children's 'festival'. Hundreds of them, all between one and six, belting around the place with all manner of bells and whistles, music, parents, siblings and a lot of racket. The noise level is deafening. I'm searching around for what looks like a hotel lobby when a lovely guy comes up and I say Yumeoi-so, ??? And he's smiling and nodding and directing us through the throngs of children and parents to, oh no, this can't be happening: a reception desk. PC says, did Trip Advisor say anything about 'good for children'? Did three nights of heaven just became three nights of hell? We are so pooped we have no choice but to hand over the credit card and get to our room, and hot tub. Open the wine and slid straight in, with a perfect view of Mt Aso, rumbling in the distance and saying hello to us with puffs of white smoke (also know as highly deadly sulphur type shit that would kill you instantly, but for the story we're going with the romantic theme).

    Now pleasantly lulled by the vino and hot spring water we make out way to a little restaurant around the corner where, to our delight, we discovered goyza and Japanese fried chicken (nothing like carbs to improve one's temperament). We also are introduced to the owner who speaks great English, and owns a Lamborghini which is parked inside said restaurant (obviously his pride and joy). He's as proud as punch and insists we hop in for a photo shoot. Chatting away we tell him of the lost license and lack of car and immediately he is on the phone organising a driver for the next day. Wonderful we think. Not all lost. Back we go to the hotel feeling excited about the next day and to top it off, have been advised by the staff that the children's festival is over for another year. They've all gone home. Winners! Things are looking up.    Read more

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