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Camino Portuguese
  • Traci Pedersen
  • Traci Pedersen

Camino Portuguese

My first Camino Leggi altro
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  • Inizio del viaggio
    20 ottobre 2024
    Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Picking up my pilgrim's credential and shell at the Porto Cathedral.Beautiful PortoView of the Lost Inn Porto hostel from the cathedral.Starting my Camino1

    Day 1: Porto to Matosinhos

    20 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I started my Camino at the Porto Cathedral this morning and got my first stamp at a little chapel outside the cathedral. It was the chapel attendant’s first day too. ☺️ I wound my way down through the steep steps and narrow cobblestone lanes to the Douro River. Porto is so old and beautiful! I walked to the mouth of the river, then turned north towards Spain. 😃
    Today’s walk was only about 7 miles, but my legs were tired! I’m going to have days where I walk twice this far, so I’m hoping my muscles get stronger and less tired each day!

    Foot report: All good today, no signs of blisters. I’m liking my shoes, and the silk liner under merino wool method seems to be working great.

    Tonight’s lodging: Lost Inn Porto Hostel. Cost for private room: €90. Definitely on the spendy side, but nice room with private bathroom in an excellent location in Porto.    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    The weight of everything I need for the next two weeks.1

    Day 2: Matosinhos to Labruge

    21 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    I walked about 13 km/8 miles today, but this time I had my actual pack on. I sent my suitcase to Santiago in Spain today, so I have to carry my own weight the rest of my Camino. If I need to, I can contract with a service to send my backpack ahead each day, but so far so good. At this point, I’m wanting the freedom to walk as long as I feel I can walk without planning where I will stop each day. We’ll see what happens.
    I walked along the coast today, mostly on a board walk right over the beach. The wind and surf are no joke here. This area is known for tragic shipwrecks, and there are many monuments along the way. I walked through a little fishing village and talked to a couple of fisherman who were working on an octopus pot. I love fishing towns!
    I’m staying at the cutest little guest house tonight, in the garden suite. (Smiling Places Guesthouse, €70 for private room w/ bathroom and breakfast included.) The owner is an angel and even did my laundry for me. Since I only have one pair of shorts and it’s going to be hot tomorrow, I was very grateful.

    Foot report: All good so far. I use Foot Glide all over my feet before putting the silk sock liners and merino wool socks on. So far so good. I had to stop once to get pebbles out of my shoe and shed my hiking pants; it got hot when the sun peeked through the clouds.

    Lesson learned today: Walking poles are super helpful for supporting the extra weight of a backpack. Also, music helps put a little pep in your step.

    Only 247 km to go 😂😂😂    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Leaving Labruge
    1All this just for me. Elizabeth provided a great breakfast, and she made me take leftovers for lunch1This lady worked in the cannery in King Cove, Chignik, and Port Moller in the late 70's.Small world!11Pour one out for Jesus.Cute little fishing town called Villa Cha1Enjoying my sack lunch on the boardwalk1The young lady who lives here ran up to me to give me these shells, the symbol of the Camino. ❤️2Monument to the lacemakers of Vila do Condé12Amazing meal at the family run Hotel. All locally sourced ingredients and homemade wine.1I love the Portuguese tiles on all of the buildings here

    Day 3: Labruge to Vila do Conde

    22 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was my last day walking along the coast. Tomorrow I will cut across to the Central Route, headed toward Rates and Barcelos. I’ve enjoyed walking along the coast, but it’s pretty windy and I’m ready for a change of scenery.
    This morning at breakfast at the Smiling Places Guesthouse, I met some other American pilgrims. When I told them I was from the Aleutian Islands in Alaska, the lady told me she worked in the canneries in King Cove, Chignik, and Port Moeller back in the late 70s. I almost fell out of my chair. I couldn’t believe it. Just another reminder of what a small world this big old world is. 😀

    I’m in a nice little family run hotel tonight called Vencelas Wine Boutique Hotel (60€ for private room w/ bathroom). The highlight was the amazing dinner. I had some kind of roasted and pan fried pork dish with pickled cabbage and vegetables, fried potatoes, and rice. It was literally one of the best pork dishes I’ve ever had. I also had a glass of what they call green wine, which is a kind of fermented white wine only made in this area, and their house red wine, both delicious. They make their own wine and source all the food ingredients locally. My dinner cost €20, with three glasses of wine (don’t judge😂). I can see why so many people want to move to Portugal.

    Foot report: no blisters, but my right foot felt a little sore today. I tried to find a massage, but wasn’t able to get in anywhere. Maybe tomorrow.
    My legs and feet both feel pretty tired and sore. I’ve been stopping to stretch fairly frequently, but probably not enough. I’m hoping my legs keep getting stronger and won’t be as sore in a few days. I’m still at the beginning of this Camino and I’ve got a long way to go.    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Aqueduct in Vila do CondeI've been stopping about an hour in each morning for coffee, a treat, and the WC. Cost: €2.20.1I almost left my glasses here. Ran back, they were on the ground. So lucky I haven't lost anything!I was so glad to get back to the Camino trail, less traffic and easy signs to follow.Only 209 km to go 🤣Farmers work so hard to feed the world, just like fisherman!View from my room at Casa Dona MariaThe first course of my pilgrim's meal.2nd course: roasted chicken. So delicious. All this for €9.Antonio has been welcoming peregrinos his whole life. His parents opened this restaurant 78 yrs ago

    Day 4: Vila do Conde to Pedra Furado

    23 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today was my longest walk so far, almost 20 km. The walk from the Coastal Route to the Central Route isn’t technically part of the Camino, and I was walking along a highway for several kilometers. I’m not talking about an interstate in the US, but it was still a fairly busy road with no sidewalk in certain places, so it wasn’t the best walk for a few km. I read that a lot of people take a bus or taxi from Vila do Conde to Arcos, where they can rejoin the Camino Central Route. If I had it to do over again, I would probably take the bus, but I’m here now and all is well. My original plan was to stop in Rates, but I felt like I still had a little gas in the tank so I decided to go about 5 km further to the next town, Pedra Furada, which is where I am now. I’m staying in a big guest house (Casa da Maria, €40) and I’m the only person here. Even the girl who checked me in is gone, so I have this whole huge place to myself. I’m so tired that I’m sure I will sleep fine, but it is a little unsettling to be in this big place by myself. I locked all the doors and checked the rooms. Hopefully you’ll hear from me tomorrow. 😂
    I had the pilgrim’s dinner at a little restaurant that has been serving Camino pilgrims for the past 78 years. The owner, Antonio, has tons of photos and showed me a picture from 2008 with two ladies from Alaska. I guess he doesn’t get many Alaskans through here.
    I basically walked through farm country all day. The farmers have already harvested their crops, and now they are spraying their fields with cow manure, I guess to help get the soil ready for spring. So basically I’ve been smelling cow shit all day and it was not pleasant. 🐄💩 😂
    I’ve had incredible weather, in the 70s and sunny all day. There’s rain in the forecast for tomorrow, so we’ll see what happens. Since I went further today, my walk will be a little shorter tomorrow, which will be good if it’s raining.
    Foot report: My feet felt pretty sore by the end of the day, and I almost felt some tender spots, but no blisters so far. I might try using the lambswool in those spots tomorrow just to be on the safe side. Preventing blisters is super important on the Camino. My legs are feeling okay, but I was dragging the last 1-2 km today. I’m proud of myself for pushing through this long day of walking!    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    I was happy to see this mile post. Only 200 km to go! 😃So many fruit trees in this part of Portugal. I had delicious, sweet apples fromthe garden yesterday1Crossing the Cavado River into Barcelos, PortugalI just keep following the yellow arrows all the way to Spain.The rooster is the symbol of Barcelos and I saw these statues everywhere.Look at that mile marker, or I should say kilometer marker!Beautiful Barcelos1When I need to use the WC, I just stop for a treat at a café. It's a win-win! 🚾🚽🚻Imagine finding a Thai massage studio right on the Camino Trail!There's a special place in heaven for massage therapists. 😇My town for the nightIt's always a welcome sight to see your albergue in the distance!Another delicious pilgrim's dinner. Cost €10 for dinner, €20 for the room.My humble abode for the evening.

    Day 5: Pedra Furada to Vila Boa

    24 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Well, I lived through the night at the creepy guesthouse and had an easy walk today, only 11 kms. Rain was forecast for the afternoon, so I was glad to have a shorter walk today. I even had time to stop for a Thai massage in the cool little town of Barcelos before the rain started. Man was that a wonderful massage! My legs and feet were so happy to get a little love. ❤️
    Tonight I am in a little albergue, a guesthouse for Camino pilgrims, called Alojamento Flora (€20 for room w/ bathroom down the hall), just a couple of kilometers past Barcelos. The host is wonderful and made me a delicious bolognese pasta dinner (€10). I’m the only guest again, but fortunately they live here so it’s not as creepy as last night. 😂 I’ve been a little surprised at how few pilgrims I’ve seen in the past two days (like just one guy yesterday). There were definitely more pilgrims on the coastal route. I think it’s a little late in the season and there aren’t as many people walking the Camino right now. Honestly, I’ve been fine walking by myself, and spending quiet evenings alone. I usually talk to my family in the evening and write these reflections, so I haven’t felt lonely. I’m staying in another small family run albergue tomorrow night, but after that, I might try to stop in bigger towns to see if there are other pilgrims to compare notes with. 😊
    Foot report: My feet felt a little tender in a couple of spots today. I will probably use some tape on those spots tomorrow. I did use lambswool under my toes today, but that area really isn’t bothering me at all. After my massage, my legs are feeling pretty good. I’m ready to take on the 15 or so kilometers tomorrow!    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    1
    2Such an interesting way to store the hayLots of walking through rural Portugal today.My Camino angels who found and returned my rain ponchoGood foot gear is essentialI found delicious treats at this spot, with a little box to drop my euro.Best coconut macaroon everMy wonderful albergue for the night, Casa FerdinandaFerdinanda roasted chestnuts and pimentos for a snack.Family style dinner, such a wonderful experience with these fellow pilgrims from all over the world

    Day 6: Vila Boa to Lugar do Corgo

    25 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I had my first rainy walk today, but my poncho worked great so it was no problem. The weather changed half a dozen times in the 15 kilometers I walked today, going from sunny to rainy, so I kept taking my poncho on and off. At some point, my poncho fell off my pack, but I had no idea I lost it. Fortunately, while I was stopped for a little break at a church, a couple came up to me and asked if I lost my poncho. I looked at my pack and realized my poncho was gone! They had found it a ways back and brought it to me. What a wonderful Camino blessing, because I needed it 2 or 3 more times before I got to my albergue.
    I walked with a guy from Australia for a few kilometers today, and it was nice to finally talk with another pilgrim for a while. He’s walking with his daughter, but she was struggling a bit so she took a bus ahead. He was going to walk 35 km today. Ouch!
    I’m in a wonderful family run albergue tonight called Casa Ferdinanda (€30 for bed in shared room, dinner, and breakfast). It’s kind of famous on the Camino Portuguese for being a gathering place for pilgrims to connect. I’m with pilgrims from all over the world, and we’ve spent the afternoon eating roasted chestnuts, pimentos, tea, and wine. Ferdinanda has a gift for bringing people together, and it’s been an amazing afternoon. She made a delicious dinner and her husband led us all in a singalong after dinner. Such an amazing and unexpected experience. I’m the only American, others are from Germany, France, Brazil, Spain, Holland, and Singapore.
    Foot report: all good. Nice day of walking. ❤️    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    ☔️🚜😂Many restaurants offer a pilgrim's menu like this one. Cost: €12.50 with wine.

    Day 7: Lugar do Corgo to Ponte de Lima

    26 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    After breakfast at Ferdinanda’s, all of us pilgrims said our goodbyes and headed out. I walked alone (by choice) although I did meet up with a young German couple from Ferdinanda’s for lunch a couple of hours into my walk. It was rainy and misty all day, but I honestly think the weather made today’s walk even more beautiful. This was the prettiest walking day so far. I was almost entirely in the forest or walking through tiny villages for 15 kms today.

    Tonight I’m in one of Portugal’s oldest and best preserved Medieval towns, Ponte De Lima. I approached along the Lima River through a big sycamore tree tunnel, which was absolutely beautiful! I’m staying in a private room/Airbnb called Centro da Vila, small but clean and comfortable (€45).

    Foot and Leg Report: I would say today was magical, except my shin splints were so bad I wanted to cry! 😿 My legs have been sore at times since I began walking, but I started feeling shin splints yesterday. Today, they were much worse. I’ve always been prone to shin splints, getting them even from swimming, but can usually manage them with stretching and rest. I actually got a little worried that if they get bad enough, they could jeopardize my Camino, so I decided to take a rest day tomorrow. I went to a pharmacy and they suggested a CBD/arnica cream and ibuprofen. I also got some of those instant ice packs, which helped, and I’m going to try to figure out how to tape my shins with KT tape. This is a small town, so not all shops are open on Sunday, but I will look for some compression socks or ace bandages tomorrow. I also spoke with a massage therapist who thinks she can help, so I’m going to see her first thing Monday morning. The next leg of the Camino is uphill, so I’m going to have my bag sent ahead, and if my shins aren’t better, I will either take a bus or taxi to the next stop, or take another rest day. If I need to, I will look into seeing a doctor. Foot and leg problems are common on the Camino, so I’m hopeful I can find the help I need here. Foot wise, no problems. My feet felt fine today, no hot spots or discomfort.
    People say the Camino provides, and that it teaches us the lessons we need to learn. I’m sure there’s a lesson in here for me. I’m going to work on figuring it out. ☺️    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    1

    Day 8: Rest Day in Ponte de Lima

    27 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    My legs definitely needed the rest today. I walked to a few stores this morning looking for some items to help my legs, and walking was pretty painful. I found some compression sleeves and sport tape, and I got a gel insert for my shoes. Both seemed to help, especially the compression sleeve and tape. I walked around by the river this afternoon and my shins felt a little better. Fingers crossed, I’ll be able to walk at least part of the way tomorrow, but I don’t want to push it so we’ll see.
    I enjoyed the afternoon in this beautiful town. There were so many people out that I thought it was a holiday, but I asked a lady at the tourist information office and she said it’s just a regular Sunday. It was a beautiful afternoon and it looked like the whole town was out for a stroll, enjoying the weather. Unfortunately, my Portuguese is limited to a couple of phrases (bom dia and abrigado), and most people here don’t speak English, so I’ve been communicating with a smile and Google translate. People have been very friendly and always have a kind smile for me. I only have two days left in Portugal, and I’m going to miss this beautiful country.    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Bom Camino
    Beautiful old street in Ponte de Lima1I got a little bottle of mead from this shop and shared it with other pilgrims at the albergue.Crossing the old bridge out of Ponte de LimaLocal carpenter who has welcomed over 20,000 pilgrims since 2021I spotted many of these cute little frogs on my walk out of Ponte de LimaThis gentleman was a one man show at the cafe where I stopped for lunch.1My cozy albergue for tonight.Carolina the house dogMy room at the albergue1I spent the afternoon with my leg elevated and iced. 🤕1Dinner at the only restaurant in this little town with my German friends.The lovely Lena and Marlon from Cologne.

    Day 9: Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes

    28 ottobre 2024, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    I was only able to walk about 4.5 km today, then I took a taxi about 10 km. There’s a fairly steep ascent between Ponte de Lima and Rubiaes, and my shin injury is still too bad for a strenuous walk. My right leg is feeling fine, but my left lower shin is still very swollen and bruised. I am very aware that I may not be able to finish this Camino if my leg doesn’t get better, so I’m doing everything I can to take care of it right now. I’m still hopeful that I’ll be able to keep going through Spain, where I will be tomorrow!

    Part of today’s walk was on the old Roman road, which dates from the 2nd century. This is such a beautiful area in northern Portugal. I really hate to leave this place!

    I had a nice surprise this afternoon. I’m staying in a wonderful albergue called Ninho~A Pilgrim’s Nest (€25 for private room w/ shared bath, breakfast included). While I was relaxing at the albergue, the young German couple I met at Ferdinanda’s showed up. I was so happy to see them! We had dinner together, good food and good conversation. They are a cool young couple with a positive outlook on life, very smart and astute about the world. Of course, they remind me of my own kids and their cool friends. It’s good to be with young people!
    Tomorrow I will see how my leg is doing. I will most likely take a taxi part of the way, but I really want to walk across the river from Portugal to Spain, so hopefully that will happen. Even though I couldn’t walk the whole way today, it was still a good journey. 😊    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    2Crossing the old Roman Bridge near Rubiaes.
    Halloween pumpkins 🎃Inside the castle walls in Valenca, Portugal, on the border with Spain.Valenca, PortugalLooking across the Minho River to the cathedral in Tui, Spain.Standing in both countries at once!!2Beautiful Tui, SpainMy albergue in TuiMy comfy room at the Ideas Peregrinas albergue.The cathedral is right beside my albergue.2Icing my injured leg in the beautiful square under the cathedralThere's nothing like hearing a choir sing in these old cathedrals with their amazing acoustics.11

    Day 10: Rubiaes to Tui

    29 ottobre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Adeus Portugal, Hola Spain!

    I crossed the Minho River today, which is the border between northern Portugal and Spain. I walked about 7 km, and even though I walked slowly, I realized I can’t keep walking right now. The shin splints in my right leg are completely healed after all my mitigation efforts and rest, but my left leg is injured. I don’t know if it’s a stress fracture or not, and I probably won’t be getting an X-ray or MRI in Spain to find out, but all the people I’ve talked to, including two pharmacists, have advised me not to walk until it heals, which could take weeks. I’m going to try to see a doctor here in Tui to see if there’s anything else I can do and seek advice about continuing my walk. In the meantime, I’m going to enjoy being in a new country and seeing some of the sights I can hobble to. 😀
    Even though today”s walk was difficult, it was really beautiful. It was almost completely in nature, along the river and through some villages. I only walked about 4.5 km then took a taxi to Valenca, which is on the border with Spain. I really wanted to walk across the border, which was a pretty special moment for me. Even if I can’t go further, I feel happy that I walked from Porto to Spain and that I got to see so much of this beautiful country.
    I am staying in an albergue (Ideas Peregrinas, €49 for private room w/ ensuite) right beside the Tui Cathedral, and I had the good fortune to hear a concert there tonight. The acoustics in these old cathedrals are unbelievable, and it was pretty magical to hear this visiting English choir singing there. It was one of those serendipitous moments that makes traveling so fun. I ended the evening with my young German friends who are also staying here, so in spite of my injury, it was a pretty great day.    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    114 km to Santiago!
    Tui CathedralThe Virgin of Expectation at the Tui CathedralLooking across the river to the castle in Valenca, Portugal.Love all the beautiful sculptures hereEating good in the neighborhood! 😃My physiotherapist gifted me a copy of his book with a beautiful dedication to me.Trick or treating at the local businesses 🎃👻Entire families were in the Halloween spirit!

    Days 11 & 12: Tui and O Porriño

    31 ottobre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    I stayed two nights in Tui so that I could try to get some help for my lower leg/shin pain. The proprietor of my albergue was able to get me an appointment with a physiotherapist yesterday and again this morning, and he worked some kind of magic on the tight muscles in my leg. He doesn’t think there is a stress fracture, just extremely tight muscles. He put some kind of clay on it, which I keep on all day and wash off at night. It’s anti-inflammatory and really provides relief. I took a bus about 14 km to O Porriño today and if I’m feeling up to it tomorrow I’m going to try walking again. But not to worry, I will stop if the pain is bad. I’m still hoping to walk the last 100 km into Santiago. My understanding is that in order to receive the Compostela (official certificate of pilgrimage), a pilgrim has to walk the last 100 km into Santiago. However, I’ve had a couple of local people tell me that if you walk 100 km total you can receive the Compostela. I’ve definitely walked more than 100 km so far! If I’m able to walk the rest of the way, I will have walked about 250 km.

    I took advantage of the extra time in Tui to tour the cathedral and see part of the historic old town. I also visited with a pilgrim I met from Australia named Bruce. He is walking very slowly and hopes to make it to Santiago despite some health issues and serious blisters. He was definitely an inspiration!
    While Tui is a historic city with many beautiful old buildings from the Middle Ages, O Porriño isn’t nearly as charming. But they are really into the Halloween spirit, with decorated pumpkins all over town near the guesthouse I’m staying in. It looks like kids decorated the pumpkins, and some of them are extremely creative. So cute! I’m staying in a guesthouse tonight called Hostal Louro (€20 for private room w/ bathroom), which could definitely use some updates, but it’s clean and warm so it will do for the night.

    All in all, I’m feeling pretty good and very hopeful I can walk the 17 km to Redondela tomorrow. I’ve arranged with a transfer company to have my stuff transported ahead, so I won’t have much weight at all. 🤞🙏🚶‍♀️😀    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Beautiful morning walk out of O Porriño this morning.
    99 km to Santiago!1What a beautiful morning!1Walking into RedondelaI walked the last few km into Redondela with Anna from South Africa.She's on her 2ndCamino this yearToday was a holiday so almost everything was closed. I had to walk 7 km before I found a coffee!1I have seen Deadliest Catch on Spanish and Greek TV since I've been in Europe. So crazy!

    Day 13: O Porriño to Redondela

    1 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    After two rest days and physiotherapy in Tui, I was able to walk 16 km to Redondela today. There’s still discomfort, but not the severe pain I’ve had the past few days. I walked slowly and stopped frequently to stretch and rest my leg, and I’m feeling confident that I will be able to walk to Santiago. 🙏🤞 I sent lots of gratitude to Javier, the physiotherapist in Tui who helped my leg so much!
    Today’s walk took me through some pretty nature and several small villages, but it definitely feels different than most of the walk through Portugal. I can usually hear traffic and see industrial areas, and it just seems a lot busier than the rural parts of Portugal I was in. I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s walk because I think it will be more in nature. I was going to walk 20 km to Pontevedra tomorrow, but my German friends who are a day ahead of me suggested that I cut it in half because there are a couple of big hills. Since I’m still nursing an injury, I think that’s wise advice, so it will be a short 10 km walk for me tomorrow. 😀
    I’m staying in a small hotel called A Marisma Hostal (€50 for private room w/ ensuite), new and very clean.    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    79 km to go!
    Lots of uphill climbing todayI met these Brazilian pilgrims who were singing prayers in unison the entire way. Faithful pilgrims!First glimpse of the ocean since I left the coast of Portugal 10 days ago.12I'm a real fashionista with my compression sleeves and 2 socks! Silly German pilgrim says hello tooJust a pretty cat soaking up the sunCrossing the old bridge from Arcade into Ponte Sampaio1Still eating good in the neighborhood1211

    Day 14: Redondela to Ponte Sampaio

    2 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Great walking day today. I didn’t have a long walk today, so I enjoyed a leisurely morning, stopped at the supermercado for snacks, and hit the trail around 10:30. I passed a group of three Brazilian women who were on a religious pilgrimage. At least that’s what I assume because they had their rosaries out and were chanting prayers and singing songs the whole walk. I slowed down even more so I could hear them longer.

    There was a lot of climbing today up some big hills, or small mountains. I guess it depends on where you’re from. 😂 Anyway, what goes up must come down, and the downhill is harder than the uphill for me. I’ve noticed that my toes are hitting the end of my shoe on the downhills. So today I stuffed a little lambswool in the end of my sock and it helped cushion my toes nicely. I’m so happy I haven’t had any foot issues! The downhills put some extra strain on my shins, but overall my shins are doing so much better. There’s still some soreness, but the terrible pain I was feeling is gone. I’m stretching in the morning and evening and I stop frequently throughout the day to stretch my legs and shins. I’m so grateful to be walking again!

    I’m in a nice little town on the coast tonight. It was nice to see the ocean again after leaving the coast of Portugal about 10 days ago. I’m staying in a basic but clean hostel called Hostel Albergue O Mesòn (€26 for private room w/ bathroom across the hall). I spent the evening walking along the coast and admiring the gorgeous sunset, then visited with some fellow pilgrims at the hostel.

    I have another short (11 km) walk tomorrow to Pontevedra, which is nice because it will give me more time to see the town, which is supposed to be a pretty (and historic) city. I only have about 4 walking days left. Crazy!    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Leaving Ponte Sampaio this morningStopped and bought a leather bracelet from this Camino dude 😄Bread delivery in rural Spain, simply left at the gate 🥖😋🇪🇸Cool art under an overpass right on the Camino.1The beautiful, historic Hotel Parador de Pontevedra , where I'm staying tonight.1The Parador de Pontevedra is in a palace that dates from the 16th Century . 🏰🇪🇸2Definitely a step up from the hostels and albergues I've been staying in! 😄1Beautiful PontevedraJust follow the shells and yellow arrows all the way to Santiago.I listened to this group of talented musicians for over an hour this evening. Sweet serendipity.

    Day 15: Ponte Sampaio to Pontevedra

    3 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    The universe has been trying to teach me the lesson of the Tortoise and the Hare my whole life, but I haven’t always been good at applying it. This Camino is definitely teaching me that slow and steady wins the race. Today was a nice 11 km walk to the medieval town of Pontevedra, mostly through forest and small farms. I did catch myself speeding up, then felt it in my shin so I would remember to slow down. Tomorrow’s walk is about 22 km, but mostly flat, so I plan to leave early and just take it slow. I mean, all I’ve gotta do is walk. 😂 And once I get to Caldas de Rais, I will be able to soak in the mineral hot springs, which should feel great.

    The town I’m in today is a beautiful old town that dates at least from the Roman times. Pontevedra is a well preserved medieval town, and I’m staying in a 16th century Renaissance palace tonight (Paradores Pontevedra, €90 for beautiful room w/ breakfast included). I’ve never stayed in a place quite like this, and it’s a treat to be here! I walked around the old town this afternoon, and even found a square where a bunch of gentlemen were playing a variety of musical instruments and singing. It was like a free concert, and it was nice to sit in the sun and listen to them. This is definitely a place I’d like to spend more time, but with the extra days taking care of my leg, I think I better keep going. And there’s still a chance I will need another rest day, so I better save it until I need it. Only a few walking days left until I get to Santiago!    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    1Hated to leave this beautiful hotel this morning, especially knowing I had 20+ km ahead of me!
    1Roman mile marker found along the Roman road in Galicia.So nice to see the km marker at 60!2Lots of walking through the forest today.2Camino wisdom 😁My midday treat. It had really started raining by this time so I was happy to find a place to stop.12This is how I wore my poncho by the end because it was so hot. My packa poncho is awesome btw.1I'm so close now!View of the cathedral from my balcony.1My hotel in Caldas des Reis in the background.

    Day 16: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

    4 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today’s walk was more mentally challenging than physically challenging. I knew it was going to be a long walking day, and I’ve got three of these in a row before I get to Santiago on Wednesday, so I really had to psych myself up. I am not one of those people who gets a great endorphin rush from physical activity. I mean, I wouldn’t really know because I hate exercising. 😂 So I just had to tell myself that all I’m doing is walking. It’s not really that hard. I also tried to stop thinking about all the km left to go, and just think about being in the moment I’m in. Once I got going, I was fine and by the time I got to my hotel, I was a happy camper. 😃

    Much of the day was in the forest, which was beautiful. It started raining about an hour into my walk, which was actually kind of nice. I don’t really mind walking in the rain, although I got pretty warm in my poncho. I also knew I had the hot springs and a massage in Caldas de Reis to look forward to, so that definitely helped! I’m staying in what once was a grand hotel, a bit outdated, but still very nice (Balneario Hotel Davila, €74 for room with breakfast, €50 for massage and soak in the hot spring mineral bath).

    No serious issues with my legs today. I’ve been doing stretches for my legs and shins each morning with a YouTube video I found. I’m also putting ice on my shin at the end of each day. I still have quite a bit of swelling by the end of the day and my shins are sore, but not the terrible pain I was having a few days ago. I’m so grateful for that.
    Just a couple more days to Santiago!    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Remember when I had 260 km to go?!My midday treat. Plus WC break. It's a win-win!I bought some cool carved necklaces from this artist.Giant hydrangeas here!I did not know kiwi grow on vines like this.I've seen so many fresh flowers on the graves at all of the churches in Spain for All Saints DayWhat a surprise to meet Bruce from Australia again!Also Maggie & Mary, mother & daughter from NY.1Beautiful fresh flowers to honor loved ones on All Saints dayMy beautiful historic hostel for tonight, O Lagar de Jesus.1The hostel is in a historic wine manufacturing estate that still has the old wine presses.My fellow pilgrims from the Czech Republic and Portugal.Celebrating Santiago Eve 🎉🍾

    Day 17: Caldas de Reis to Vilar

    5 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today was a nice walking day, but LONG! I walked at least 25 km today. I started before 9 AM and didn’t get to my albergue until after 5 PM. I kept meeting up with the same pilgrims, some of whom I’ve seen for a few days. We all seem to stop at the same cafés for a snack and a bathroom break, and just to rest for a little while. There was the lady from Ukraine, who’s walking with her sister. She was at the hot springs spa with me yesterday. I met Gus from Maine, who is 22 years old and just graduated from college. He’s meeting his dad in Portugal after the Camino and they’re going to Morocco. I met Laura from Dallas, who has done multiple Caminos. I walked with a couple from Vancouver who I’ve seen for the last several days. I’ve definitely been talking with more pilgrims in the last few days, which has been fun and interesting. After our second stop today, I ran into Laura again and she said that I was emanating joy. I don’t know about that, but I definitely feel in good spirits today.

    At my third stop today in Padron, I met Elena from Venezuela and Alex from Germany. While I was talking with them, Bruce from Australia came in. I met him in Tui a few days ago and we were both dealing with leg and foot issues. I knew I was ahead of him by at least a day so it was a nice surprise to see him again. I also saw Maggie and her mom Mary from New York. Maggie was at the spa with me in Caldas des Rais last night. It’s so cool to keep running in to people I’ve met along the way.

    Tonight I am in a beautiful, historic albergue called O Lagar de Jesus (€60 for large private room w/ ensuite). The owner is a Brazilian man named Elijah, but his mother is Galician and he is now back in his mother’s home country. He lived in Miami for 10 years before coming to Spain. I had a wonderful meal here with other pilgrims from Portugal and the Czech Republic, and enjoyed the best Spanish Rioja wine. 🍷 😀 Elijah gave a special toast about family and faith, and what the way, the truth, and the life means. He called this our Santiago Eve, and it definitely felt like a celebration. Only 20 km to go to Santiago! I will meet my young German friends there and celebrate this beautiful pilgrimage with them.

    Foot report: On my second café stop today, I took care of a little hotspot I was feeling on my heel. I reapplied Foot Glide all over both feet and put some tape on that spot. A small blister was forming, but I think I caught it in time. My shins are feeling pretty good. Still a little sore at the end of the day, but no serious problems.

    I’m feeling pretty happy about making it this far, and I’m looking forward to arriving in Santiago de Compostela tomorrow. 🙏😌    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    1
    I loved staying in this beautiful family-run albergue my last night on the Camino.Ready for the last 20 kmI saw many of these little shrines along the way, where people lay down their burdens and fears.Last bit of nature before reaching the outskirts of Santiago.10 km to go! Today's walk was difficult, mostly uphill and long, but counting down the km helped.Santiago Cathedral in the distance, about 6 km awayApproaching the cathedral, I was feeling pretty emotional, especially as I entered the square.My destination: Cathedral De Santiago de Compostela4I made it!1So happy to be at the Santiago Cathedral ☺️1Lena and Marlon arrived in Santiago the day before I did. It was so nice to see them again!A Casa Ferdinanda reunion with another pilgrim from the Netherlands who we met back in Portugal.Beautiful view of the cathedral from my albergue11The shadow pilgrim, created when the streetlight hits this post in the evening.15

    Day 18: Vilar to Santiago. Arrival day!!

    6 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Today’s walk was quite strenuous, but knowing I was almost finished helped me push on. The last 20 km into Santiago is mostly uphill, and it was sunny and hot, which made the climb harder for me. I also felt pretty emotional today, missed my family, and spent a lot of the walk in my head, so it was a bit difficult. While I felt an overwhelming sense of pride for doing this hard thing by myself, for me life is meant to be shared with family and friends. 🥰
    The emotions I felt during my walk came to a head when I entered the square at the Santiago Cathedral. It was a little overwhelming. There were at least a couple hundred other pilgrims gathered there, celebrating, taking photos, laughing, crying, and reflecting, some alone and some in groups. I found a spot to sit for a while and feel my feelings. I felt grateful to be there and I let it all out. It’s an experience I hope I never forget.

    After finding my little albergue (Hostal Alfonso, €60 for private room w/ bath, breakfast included) and getting a much needed shower, I went back to the cathedral and met my German friends Lena and Marlon there. They were a day ahead of me and arrived yesterday. I spent the evening with them and enjoyed reflecting on this incredible experience with them. People talk about a Camino family, and I think that speaks to our need to connect with others and share experiences. I’ve met a lot of interesting and cool people on this journey, and even though I only spoke with some of them for a few minutes, there’s still a connection through this shared experience.

    I also got my Compostela today, the official certificate showing I walked 260+ km from Porto to Santiago. 🙀

    Foot report: I developed a small blister on that hotspot on the edge of my left heel. I think, changing my stride to protect my shins also caused a little different movement in my shoe which led to this blister. I used second skin and KT tape and was able to walk without much trouble, but blisters are no fun and I can’t believe I developed one on the last day! It takes me about 20 minutes to get my shoes on each morning because of all of the steps I’ve been taking to avoid blisters. I would say the fact that I only developed one small blister on the last day means I was pretty successful. 👍 I think it’s hard to get through a 260 km hike with no foot issues!    Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    1Kilometer zero marker at the Fisterra lighthouse
    Muros, a small fishing town on the Costa da Morte.I love how the art in the churches reflects the lives of fishing families who have always lived hereHorreo de Carnota, one of Galicia's longest granaries built in the 1700's to store and protect grainAt the Ezaro waterfall on the Costa da MorteIn the village of FisterraPorto de Fisterra1Lighthouse at MuxiaThe church at land's end in MuxiaPonte MaceiraPonte Maceira, designated a "Bonitos de España," or beautiful town of Spain.Land's end at MuxiaThe beautiful little village of Ponte Maceira

    Finisterre and Muxia

    10 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I had a few days in Santiago before flying back to Alaska, which gave me time to explore this beautiful, historic city and take a day trip to Finisterre, Muxia, and the Costa da Morte. Finisterre translates as “end of the earth,” and many pilgrims continue their Camino the additional 90 km from Santiago to the coast. Instead of walking, I took a bus. 😊 The day I went was rainy and so foggy that I couldn’t see the ocean from the cliffs at Finisterre, but it was still pretty awesome to stand at the end of the trail and see the symbolic kilometer zero marker. The visibility was a little better in Muxia, and seeing the old church at the rocky shore through the fog was pretty special. We drove through some beautiful countryside and saw many picturesque villages and little fishing towns along the Costa da Morte, known for its dangerous seas and shipwrecks since ancient times. If I ever have the opportunity again, I would love to walk to Muxia and Finisterre.Leggi altro

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  • Traci PedersenCamino PortugueseViaggiatore
    Santiago Cathedral from Alameda Park, my last night in Santiago.
    The incredible altar of the Santiago Cathedral.The tomb of St. James, which has inspired pilgrims to visit this place since its discovery in 820 ADRooftop tour of the cathedral.Loved seeing the happy pilgrims arrive at the square.View of the Parador from the cathedral rooftop.My room in the beautiful Parador de Santiago.View of the cloister from my room.View of the cloister from my room.One of the many corridors inside the Parador.Breakfast with a view of the cathedral.The library at the Cathedral Museum.What a surprise to run in to Elijah, who ran the hostel where I stayed my last night on the Camino.The famous Tarta de Santiago, a delicious almond cake that is a specialty of the area.Greeting the shadow pilgrim after the pilgrim's mass my second night in Santiago.A visit to Alameda Park my last evening in Santiago.Just happened upon this man playing a theremin at the Pilgrim's Museum. So cool!

    4 Days in Santiago

    10 novembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    I spent my last four days in Spain exploring Santiago, visiting museums, touring the cathedral, attending a pilgrims’ mass, taking a walking tour, and looking for the perfect souvenir. I stayed at the beautiful Parador de Santiago de Compostela, which was an incredible treat after walking for two weeks. Also known as the Hostal dos Reis Católicos in Galician, it is one of the oldest and most luxurious hotels in Europe, and widely considered the best hotel in Spain. It was originally built in the 1500s as a hospital (more like a hostel or hotel, think ‘hospitality’) for pilgrims to recover after completing their pilgrimage. It was renovated and restored into a world-class hotel in the 1950s. Lucky for me, they offer a special rate for pilgrims (€130/night, including an incredible breakfast) so I was able to stay two nights without breaking the bank! The hotel has four cloisters and I got lost a few times trying to find my way around. It was like staying in an incredible museum for a few days.
    My German friends Lena and Marlon left for Porto my second day in Santiago, but we were able to spend the day together and visit one of Santiago’s modern art museums before they caught their train. While we were walking to the museum, I heard someone call my name. It was Elijah from the albergue my last night on the trail. His family lives in Santiago and he just happened to be leaving his house when we walked by. So random, yet so Camino!
    My fellow pilgrim Bruce from Australia arrived in Santiago the day after me and we attended the pilgrim’s mass that evening. Even though I’m not Catholic and the entire service was in Spanish, it was still pretty special to attend this nightly service. I went back and toured the cathedral the next day, which included a visit to St. James’ tomb, the beautifully restored portico, and a guided tour of the rooftop. It was amazing to see Santiago from atop the cathedral and observe all of the pilgrims entering the square, cheering and celebrating.
    My last night in Santiago, I walked to Alameda Park, which overlooks the old town and cathedral. It was a bit overcast, which actually made the sunset even more beautiful. It was a nice way to end this incredible adventure…although some would say the Camino never ends.
    Buen Camino!    Leggi altro

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    Fine del viaggio
    10 novembre 2024