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Martin on the Camino 2023
  • Martin on the Camino 2023
  • Martin on the Camino 2023

Martin on the Camino 2023

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    13 April 2023
    Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara

    DAY 1: Pamploma to Zariguiegui

    13 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    First day walking with pack but it felt not too heavy so continued walking further than planned and arrived at Zariguiegui ,- population 173, elevation 624 metres. shared bunk room with Korean lady and an American couple from Arizona who invited me to share their table at dinner. Also another man came later and had the bunk on top of mine.Early to bed but found it difficult to sleep with snoring etc.Baca lagi

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    Day 2: Zariguiegui to Puente La Reina

    14 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A very long day- To El Perdon a mountain top with wind turbines on the ridge and a famous sculpture. Realized was off the trail when had to crawl on hands and knees on foot wide muddy path with a sheer drop on the other side. Also for almost three hours saw nobody. With aid of Google maps walked along the ridge and found the statue and the official trail about a kilometre along the ridge. At the statue met Jeffrey from Arizona and we walked together to Puerta La Reina with a diversion to Eunate which is an unusual church with the number 3 repeated in many mystical ways. Finally reached destination about 5:30. Had room already booked in a Casa Rural so was grateful for a room to myself as couldn't get to sleep in dormitory in previous night with coughing and snoring etc.Baca lagi

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    1

    Day 3: Puente La Reina to Lorca

    15 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Was in a hotel and had good breakfast, left shortly after 9 am and arrived in Lorca about 1:30. About 13 km. at Lorca had bed in dormitory room, did my washing for the first time and hung it on wire frame directly above the entrance . 3 course meal with lentil soup, pasta with pesto and rice pudding for dessert.Baca lagi

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    Day 4: Lorca to Estella

    16 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Crisp, bright day, walked about 10 km to Estella, pop. 13,688. Trail descended to valley floor and then through fields. Arrived Estella just before midday. First albergue I tried was full then walked around trying to find anotherone
    While resting on a corner looking for accomodation, first a couple of police motorbikes came roaring along the road followed by police cars and then along came the cyclists travelling at great speed before turning sharply right and racing over an ancient stone bridge followed by all the vehicles of modern day professional cycling. Eventually after watching the cyclists used booking.com and secured a night in a highly rated albergue for €15. Nice host, Alfonso - I had top bunk for a change.
    In the evening had 3 course vegetarian meal in Mundo restaurant. Glad I made a reservation as it was a very popular place. I had a Norwegian flag on my table as different flags used to identify customers. Later I booked accommodation for next two nights to avoid turning up and finding albergue full.    Baca lagi

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    Day 5: To Villamayor de Monjardín

    17 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Villamayor de Monjardín, pop. 121. Elev.672. some of the trail involved going uphill but very pleasant conditions for hiking crisp with blue skies. Stopped at small village for coffee in local bar and listened to Nick Drake being played the sound system. Stayed at Oasis Trails, an albergue run by a religious organisation. Very nice communal meal and 'Jesus,'meditation session in a former stable. Bunk bed €12.Baca lagi

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    Day 6: To Los Arcos

    18 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Los Arcos. Pop.219, Elev. 445m. View from the trail is low rolling hills covered in grain fields and the gravel path winds its way through fields and vineyards. The narrow streets and stone buildings lend it the feel of a medieval town.Baca lagi

  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    View from balcony where I'm staying. My washing also on the line

    DAY 10: Navarette to Nájera

    22 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Walked today from Navarette to Nájera. 16 km. Day started cloudy then it rained. Rain gear on. Had breakfast after 2 hours with detour to Ventosa. Arrived Nájera at 2:30. Lower bunk bed 13€. Sunny in the afternoon and there's some festival on. Lots of people sitting outside drinking and now a band is playing on a recently set up stage.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    1Where I am staying . See small balcony on right-that's my room.
    My roomView from my balcony2This is my first course of vegan option. Note the full bottle of wine included.11View from my balcony221I wonder who is slower?2

    DAY 11: Nájera to Santo Domingo de La Ca

    23 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Actual name I'm at is Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Up early and was on my way by 7:15. Streets and plazas littered with plastic cups, bottles and cigarette butts from partying the night before. DJ with loud bass played till early morning. Applying Vaseline to feet early morning before 7 am, Hannah who had been in the same room the night before commented " your feet are in good condition". Probably not what the podiatrists would have said the previous couple of weeks or so. Up early as had 22 km to do and reach destination by mid afternoon to secure my accommodation. It took about 6 and a half hours with a stop for breakfast and onother to air my feet and change into thinner socks.
    Staying tonight in accommodation run by some religious order. When I didn't get reply to my emails I phoned them last night and they only had a room with 2 beds. So I got there in time and have a room for myself. If you look at one of the pictures my room is the one with the smaller balcony. There's an interesting story about the church which I can tell later. I am eating the vegan option in restaurant and it comes with a full bottle of wine. At least I am getting my greens as picture shows.    Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Inside local churchLocal bread shopStairs leading to church tower where I'm staying4That's me at the end2A little chaos before dinner2We're getting there- but first there's some sort of service

    DAY 12: Santa Domingo to Grañón

    24 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A short walk today about 7 km as I wanted to stay at this particular aubergue which is run on a donation basis. The beds are in the church tower. Actually no beds just a sort of mattress on the floor. Communal dinner with help from pilgrims and after a service of sorts. Was misty when I left just after 7 am.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    3Resting11Stork nests in towerWhere I'm staying1Taken when I was waiting for aubergue to openA little lunchMy bed is the single bed in the corner- luxury for 15€The town square1There's even a swimming pool and sunloungers. Hot sun and a little windy dries the washing fastJulie my Ozzie walking companion leaves for a stay in village further along1Menu at albergue restaurant for tonight

    Day 13: Grañón to Belrado

    25 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Relatively early start about 7:15. But delayed with problem of one hiking pole won't click into locked position when extended. May have to buy new poles in next big town - Burgos- and send the others to Santiago. A disappointment as they are so new. Walked about 15 or 26 km and passed several small villages with nothing open as wanted a coffee and croissant. The dog lying in the middle of the road obviously felt it was pretty safe. Belrado is a pretty little town ( pop 1852). Got really nice accommodation - clean and spacious and I have a single bed. There is even a swimming pool in the grounds. Walked here with Julie a 53 year old Australian who carried on to a village further along. After doing washing and having a shower have been spending time arranging route and trying to secure accommodation. Good news - after scouring internet found a solution to fix the problem of the pole not locking. Hopefully tomorrowI will be able to use both poles.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Just follow the yellow arrows
    Leaving BelaradoMaybe this village will have something open for breakfastFront of hotelInside the hotel1Looking forward to a night undisturbed by snoring. The whole room is mine.View from window of my roomLocal church. Just outside hotelMixed salad first course1Second course was 2 baked mackerel. Already started eating before photo was taken.1It's called flan. I'll never finish the whole bottle of wine!

    DAY 14: Belarado to Villafranca Montes

    26 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Name of place arrived at is Villafranca Montes de Oca. Have own room in hotel. Tomorrow is uphill and also without services so hopefully will get a good night's sleep. One concern is next city I will reach on Saturday seems to be booked out. But good news - another afternoon of research and I have an albergue and a hotel booked for Saturday and Sunday. Have nothing booked tomorrow but hope there will be space in a monastery.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    My pilgrim passport filling up with stamps. This passport necessary to get into pilgrim only hostels
    Nice to start early morningearly morning startWide track through pine forestOn the wayEnterprising local selling refreshments at the topAfter 12 km reached civilisation. Stopped for coffee and a croissantPosing with Christa from Sydney. Had a great chat with her most of the way.This is the entrance to the Albergue, part of the monasterythis is the church where there is a service for pilgrims at six.View from window in dormitoryWashing clothes is a daily ritual- wear one set wash one setInside the church

    Day 15: to San Juan de Ortega

    27 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    This morning's walk although mostly uphill was easier than I expected. Uphill and through a pine forest. Time went quickly talking to Christa from Sydney. Put my backpack in line outside monastery and presently waiting for the opening time by having beer and cheese sandwich in local bar.Baca lagi

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    A feature along the way are the numerous fountains available with drinkable water
    Start of the day: An early morning startWith all the hills to climb you can see for milesLeaving villages important to look out for the yellow arrowsAt the top of yet another hill1Found a way to get passed the barbed wiremorning walked through a pine forest2A cheese sandwich and a coffee cortado for lunch2This is the menu for tonight

    San Juan de Ortega to Cardeñuela Rio Pic

    28 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Population 111. San Juan de Ortega to Cardeñuela Rio Pico. After leaving the monastery a gradual uphill climb on a wide dirt path through a pine forest. As the forest ends you see that you are on the long spur of a ridge pointing out into a spacious valley with views over many kilometres or miles. After a Skype call stopping at village of Atapuerca continued through the village and headed uphill on a rough path of jagged stones beneath scattered groups of holm oak. At the top is the Cruz de Atapuerca and beyond you can see below the town of Burgos my destination for tomorrow.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    2Host of albergue - had a great 3 course meal for 12 €and gave us shots of a herbal liquor afterwards
    A different Camino experience - walking up and down motorway on and off ramps1El Cid

    Day 17 and 18 in Burgos

    30 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    It's not all uphill and downhill with small villages. Yesterday walked to the big city of Burgos. Leaving village of Cardeñuela Riopico encountered new construction of motorway and had to walk up and down off and on ramps and those things not designed with footpaths. I then took an unofficial route suggested by guidebook which ran alongside southern perimeter fence of Burgos airport. About as interesting as exploring perimeter fence of Heathrow. The aim of this route was to avoid entry into Burgos by busy industrial area to North and enter via a " lovely park system" After the airport it was just like Penrose but continued and soon found the parkland which ran along side a river. I have a hotel for Saturday night - next to Cathedral and a hostel nearby for Sunday. Unfortunately cannot send some stuff on to Santiago as Post office closed till Tuesday because of Labour Day on Monday. Plan to visit cathedral todayBaca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Next to University of Burgos on outskirts of Burgos city.
    Seen at bus shelterA good place for a restStopped in this village for refreshments.Called a cacao croissant really large and cost €1.40. Will be hard to go to an Auckland cafe afterA quicker way to Leon1On the MesetaStopped at bar and had this vegetable paella.Not the MesetaThe end in sight.1population 57. Altitude 824m Staying here the night.

    DAY 19: Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino

    1 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Young Spaniards returned to room 2 am and outside partying continued till early hours. A 20 km walk today. Left Burgos city and parkland near University quickly became farmland and after that we enter the Meseta. You can either walk it, skip it and take a bus to Leon or hire a bike in Burgos and leave it at Leon. Staying in nice Albergue and have booked communal meal at 7pm and breakfast. With bunk bed 13€, total is 29€. Got here nearly 3pm and only top bunks remaining. At this time of year the fields are green as the wheat is very young. In a pleasant garden on sunlounger after shower and doing washing.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Leaving by main street early morning - cold!
    Sun coming upFirst sight of HontanosMain street of HontanosNotice board showing local wild life- for you DavePart of AlberqueMy lower bunk in the corner- perfect!Could be a hotel - clean and modernOne of several decks to relax.Main street with personView of side of aubergueView from café terraceOutside of Alberque - in front of cafeTable set for evening meal

    Day 20: To Hontanas

    2 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Had nice vegetarian paella in communal meal- mainly talking to an Italian man. Up early and poor sleep due to loud snoring. Meandering path steadily climbing through farmland, green shoots of wheat and wind turbines in distance , gradually climbing on paths of rough reddish brown gravel stones. A shortish walk to Hontanas only about 11 km. At the cafe in Hontanas met Fred, the German man sharing lower bunk in previous Albergue and continued our talk in German. Checked in at the Alberque and was really pleased with my allotted pre- booked bed. Lower bunk and in corner, spacious and clean. Paid 15€ for bed and 11€ for communal evening meal. See the attached photos. Advantage of arriving early was able to plan route for next few days and and book accommodation for next few days. Had a very nice vegetarian paella and mixed salad for evening meal.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Approaching CastrojerizTaken 8 amApproaching Castrojeriz

    Day 21: To Castrojeriz

    3 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Population 819. Elevation 809 m. Last night the meal was paella (again) and I had a special vegetarian option. Very quiet last night with hardly any snoring. A fairly short walk this morning of about 11 km. Walked with Frazer from Brisbane part of the way and he decided to stay in the same albergue as the one I had booked and he telephoned and got the last bed. No bunk beds in this 500 year old house - all single beds - and I have a bed in the corner. Temperature at 4 pm 29 degrees. Lucky my walking is finished for the day. Later will explore the sights- a couple of churches before communal meal at 6:30.Baca lagi

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    DAY 22: TO Boadilla del Camino

    4 Mei 2023, Sepanyol

    Left at 7 am with Fraser, who's a doctor from Brisbane, to Boadilla about 23 km. Some steep climbs but wonderful views. Except for some scattered farms and tiny towns, guidebook says region is empty of most everything except fields and wind farms. Leaving Castrojeriz initially a very steep climb and no fountains or services for first 10 km. This town not so picturesque as previous places.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Fraser in frontHeavy rain and thunder. View from window next to my bunk bedTaken 8:19pm walking back to Albergue after evening meal of seafood paella, hake dish and rice pud

    DAY 24: TO Calzadilla de la Cueza

    6 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Left at 7 am and walked to just after 1pm. Walked with Fraser again. Quite flat today and very straight as much of route follows old roman road. Arrived glad had booked as sign said "completo" meaning full . Luckily my washing was dry as it started to rain with peals of thunder. Had evening meal : first course seafood paella, main was hake in a sauce and had rice pudding for dessert- €13 with wine5Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Moratinos. Pop. 61. Stopped here for lunch.Bodega's set into hillside for storing wineThat's me with camera while Fraser trudges aheadAnother sparsely populated village but we did see one old ladySome humble homes are made of adobeAs far as the eye can see, just green and blueErmita de la Virgin de Puente- a 12th century chapel across a small bridgeAt this time of year the smell of scotch broom fills the airSometimes the path runs along side a road

    Day 25: To Sahagún

    7 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Left in the morning 7:15 and arrived about 3:30. Walked about 25 km today. In a hostal today which is like a very basic hotel but have my own room and bathroom so am looking forward to a night without snoring and coughing and people getting up just after 5 am. Sahagún is the largest town between Burgos and León with population 2837. It is becoming increasingly important to try and book accommodation before arriving at a place.Baca lagi

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  • Martin on the Camino 2023Martin on the Camino 2023Pengembara
    Leaving Sahgún 7 am
    Shady path alongside roadAn albergue on the way. Didn't stop hereAdobe is traditional for this part of country but often in ruins as young leave rural areasAnother village 😀 with very few people.In the town storks nestsThe main street of El Burgo RaneroTypical of today's route - a tree-lined path alongside road andA close up of the nestsGarden where I'm staying 12€ the night.Clothes washing an important part of the day. Mine on the front lineEvening meal,: chickpeas, variety of mushrooms, grilled white asparagus and fried potatoes

    Day 26: To El Burgo Ranero pop. 751

    8 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Left at 7 am. A walk if just under 18 km. Path lined with trees follows a quiet country lane near a freeway. After about 10 km stopped for breakfast /brunch at first albergue/ bar on this route. Had a large cheese bocadillo ( sandwich) almost half a baguette type bread , fresh orange juice and cafe con leche. Arrived early enough to have shower, do washing and have a mid afternoon beer, seek out options for dinner. Also, a bit of planning for next day. Planning results in taking the advice of a priest and getting bus from Mansilla de Las Mulas to León instead of spending the night there. This gives us 2 days in León and time to finally get to Post Office to send sandals and anything else to lighten backpack. Delicious meal a speciality of region and no meatBaca lagi

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