Baku - a mesmerising place ...

... with a mix of ancient heritage fit for a city of the Silk Roads and unapologetic futuristic architecture.

We are staying at the Hilton in the modern part of town, right next to Baku Boulevard with a fabulous view across the Caspian Sea and the F1 race track which is being built for the Azerbaijan Grand Prix at the end of the month.

After a leisurely breakfast, we start the day at a slow, unhurried pace along Baku Boulevard and tasting the salty breeze off the Caspian Sea (Baku is not for nothing known as 'city of winds').
Established in 1909, the wide pedestrian promenade stretches for several kilometres and is lined with parks, cafés and modern landmarks but at this time of day it feels rather deserted and most places are shut.

From the promenade, we head into Baku Old Town which is surrounded by ancient walls. There are plenty of narrow winding streets, traditional stone buildings, mosques, caravanserais ('old' road side inns or guest houses that are now great looking restaurants where one can just imagine the rooms going out from the central plaza), museums, charming courtyards ... and cobbles everywhere as well as lots of people trying to sell their wares - everything from sightseeing tours, Russian style fur hats to carpets.

But it doesn't matter where you are, looking past the centuries-old limestone facades, the arched merchant windows and wrought iron gates, the gleaming, futuristic curves of the Flame Towers are looming right over the rooftops.

From the old town we head further uphill via the wide stone staircases, past the Flame Towers and all the way to Highland Park. From the terrace, we have an incredible panoramic view of the entire crescent bay including Baku’s mammoth seafront flagpole.

That reminds me of a little snippet I remember from what I read ...
Azerbaijan entered the race for the highest flagpole in the world in 2010. But the claim to fame for the 162m high flagpole was short-lived as in 2011, the Tajik flag was flying from a 165m flag- pole in Dushanbe. But even the Tajik flag isn't flying high enough anymore. Since 2021 the top price now goes to Egypt with 202m. But at least Azerbaijan caught up in 2024 with a 195m high flagpole.

On the other side of the terrace, the iconic silhouette of the Flame Towers perches high above the skyline, paying homage to Azerbaijan’s roots as the ancient "Land of Fire." Even more so at night when the more than 10,000 high-power LEDs transform the towers into animated fire scenes.

Having walked up the hill in the midday heat, we are very happy to spot Manzara, a café along the terrace. So, the only logical next move is to sit down, take in the panorama, and have a couple of cold local Xırdalan beers. Just what the doctor ordered.

Despite the refreshments, our legs are too tired to walk all the way down again. Instead we take the funicular 🚠 - 2 min ride for 1 AZ Monat, just one other futuristic construction.

It's still a long way along the now busy and buzzing boulevard and I am in need of sustenance. We planned to stop at the fish & chips place but that's still closed, so we just made it to Papa John's 🙈.

Never mind, I was desperate and the pizza was tasty giving us enough power to try out the 360 degree bar back at the Hilton.

Great views and some happy hour drinks are perfect to finish our first, exciting but also tiring day in Baku.Read more