• Markina-Xemein

      April 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Day 6
      I'm feeling nothing, and that makes me feel frustrated! I suppose this is just the phase of settling in and that's okay: it's finding out if my clothes and everything suit what I need, it's discovering which bits of my body hurt or don't, it's seeing who else is around ,and how it all works, day by day by day. I reckon next week will be a bit of a shock when I will start sleeping in hostels instead of these lovely private rooms Heike has booked for us. But perhaps there will be a better sense of belonging to the pilgrims.
      Cold, wind and rain demand resilience. We avoided the long and slippery hill route today in the challenging weather conditions, so took the coastal path for 10 km to Ondarroa, and then a bus to Markina. I didn't expect this cold and I'm very unsure that my kit is sufficient.
      A most unusual church building at the Ermita de San Miguel de Arretxinaga - why these rocks?
      Heike had booked an Airbnb apartment with a kitchen, so for supper we ate in, Karaoke fish from the fishmonger in Mutriku, and scallops in their shells: I now have my pilgrims' symbol to carry!

      Uninspired to paint. Squeezed out some 'thunks' I've been sort of thinking instead.
      ... am I part of this environment, or separate from it? Incidental, unimportant; or significant, maybe, just because I'm here? Is my passing through any more (or less) consequential because I'm human - compared with sheep, snails, cows, donkeys ... or flowers, winds, sun, rain?

      Walking together is nice, but I need to be alone. Next week will do. I want to gain more inner clarity and simplicity.
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    • Deba

      April 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Day 5
      Found an angel in my coffee this morning (not the little one: that was given to me by a friend to carry with me) so obviously it was gonna be a good day!
      Plenty of variety in the landscape; we were mostly more inland, but with frequent views of the sea behind trees and hills. Wind very chill. Didn't swim on arrival although it's the last day at the coast for days ... far too cold.

      I spied penguins! Can you?

      And sang in a fabulously resonant church (thanks Heike for the inspiration), took lunch in a field of newly mown hay, found a type of hellebore I've never seen before, and petted an extremely appreciative dog that was lying in the road at risk of being run over.

      Two Japanese brothers (with Google translate) who were impressed that I have walked the Kumano Kodo before. Adrian from Ireland, twice PhD, house husband, and an intriguing story of friendship with a Japanese-French couple. Drank beer and shared peanuts with Xavier from Bordeaux, walking (very slowly!) with a 20kg pack which includes a tent. Spanish pilgrim with guitar (I was angling for a music session). Dinner with Fiorella and Sergio.
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    • Zarautz

      April 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Day 4
      Just walking.

      When did YOU last make a daisy chain?

      How I love the unfurling ferns: they stand so tall, and let their branches and leaves stretch out little by little.

      Happy.

      "Mr Cheese" / Kyesoo, Korea: " 'anna' means 'do you know' in Korean!"
      Hanna from Münich/Bordeaux.
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    • San Sebastian

      April 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Day 3
      Up and up and uuuup and down and up and down and across the water by ferry, and Heike! And up and down. Icy sea swim...ahhhh.

      Pintxos. Very delicious indeed.
      27km. Content.

      Michaela and Sophia at breakfast, Austria, Camino primitivo, alarm clock! 2 brothers from Manchester. Silent man from Taiwan. Italians from Milan. George from California, Ines from Bayern. French man, hard core, millionth Camino (or something), Rome - Santiago. Chiara, Verona, walking almost asleep.Read more

    • via St Jean de Luz to Irun

      April 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Day 2
      Catching up with my original itinerary by using the local bus, I was able to set out on foot from St Jean de Luz where I found my first yellow Camino waymarker. Fabulous feeling! A lot of asphalt walking, but I managed to find a path through the middle of the traffic-y roads in proper countryside, mountain views to the south and coast to the north (of course). Nothing to do but walk and breathe and laugh and sing, and think, and not think! I like the sense that the path is hemmed in by hills and sea. I picnic in the shade of a tree. Feels like gifted tree; it's 'my' tree. There's only one decision to make, and that's to go ahead. Simplicity.

      Someone opened her car window and shouted 'buen camino!', for my first time, and it made me sob, actually, that feeling of belonging to this something-special that I'm at last IN.

      And, as has often been the case at the start of my long treks, I notice the wonderful vibrancy of the flowers, trees and grasses in the verges. Some of the plants produce just one flower head, modest or glamorous, tiny or grand, others shoot out many stems or trunks with multiple flower heads or branches. I'm thinking about the personality of each, and about human personalities that possibly match. What does my sense of myself suggest I am like? Random thoughts, fun.
      Irun city is buzzing at dinner time, families and couples and groups of people of all ages, kids playing footy in the square, people sitting at outside tables - in coats, as it's pretty chilly, especially in the wind - and I am bemused at not finding somewhere to eat that isn't primarily a bar. But it's fun wandering around; I'm probably missing something key about Spanish food culture. Perhaps it's just too early.
      Trying to read the menu and order food in Spanish is hilarious, but I manage.
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    • Bayonne: the adventure begins

      April 18, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Day 1
      I arrive in Biarritz, but my rucsac doesn't make it! So the adventure begins with nothing on my back, and the opportunity to do anything I like. The airport palm tree makes me feel safe, comforted even; I decide to explore Bayonne for the day (the next flight from Stansted arrives tonight), which wasn't on the itinerary at all but is close to here and said to be really beautiful. Bonus! 1 hour's walking ahead. Hooray for the Camino!
      En route, a Carmelite nun at the convent door: 'vous pouvez entrer l'eglise pour prier'. Silence, warmth, depth. I lie on the stone floor in tears, no clear reason why, except 'everything'; the sense of embrace, peace. I breathe ... relief.

      A wander through a very beautiful and fashionable city, a baguette at the side of the river, encounter with my first Spanish pilgrims (I almost understood them!), a kindly welcome in a private pilgrims' hostel and my first pilgrimage stamp. A nap, and then the very welcome email confirmation that my rucsac had reached the airport. A galette de sarasin in the evening sun at the ocean in Biarritz, with a glass of Breton cider. Happy, happy adventuring!

      Jürgen, retried orthopaedic doctor from Köln, Camino Frances. Veronique, my host ('le basque est stupide! Est-ce que on parle latin en Italie?!': a political tirade. My french is pretty good, it seems, to understand all that!). Tatiana and Serghei, not yet so lucky with their missing luggage from Canada/Moldova, Vamino Frances. Camille, French pèlerine at the Refuge des Pèlerins, Camino del Norte.

      I have such a 'story': it seems to be complex and wonderful and awful; but so too - I have to presume, whether disclosed or not - does any individual. And so does every tree, every flower! What a wonder.

      There's welcome for me from so many directions.
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