Day 6- The Road to Bilbao

This morning we bade adieu to San Sebastián and hit the road. We are driving two cars to Andalucía which has presented some challenges, like making sure our mapping apps are in sync. Generally we find a free lot outside town and leave one car there for a day or three, then find closer parking near our hotel. We can talk by phone but it is difficult while navigating. Otherwise we have a small convoy, which today went on an inspiring tour of the Basque coastline all the way to Bilbao.

The coast reminded us of Big Sur. Our first stop was the fishing village of Getaria, where we had a coffee and mandatory pinxto by the harbor. This was followed by a coastal drive by beaches and through forests. Then it was off to Leteiko, on a flyer, as the LP guide referred to it as a “mini San Sebastián”— which it was! Seafood was definitely on the menu so we both had an impressive slab of bonito and of course the local cider (see photo).

Then it was off to Bilbao to see the Guggenheim museum building. We loved it. The best view is from the highway bridge, from where it looks like an enormous octopus unfolding it’s arms along the banks of the river. The museum has completely revitalized downtown Bilbao with artistic and renovation projects spreading out from it. You have to give the city fathers an A+ for vision. We didn’t go in— the risk of ending up disappointed by modern “art” was too great. It has to be said, however, that Brie enjoyed posing in front of Jeff Koons enormous statue of a terrier made of poppies. I am going to have a talk with that dog.

Finally we ended up at another flyer, a marvelous boutique hotel in the Rioja región called El Teatrisso, in an equally marvelous little town called El Cuzcurrito de Rio Turon. We shall wait until tomorrow to describe this magical pueblo.Read more