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Summer’21 Spanish Road TripSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
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Summer’21 Spanish Road Trip

August - September 2021
A 20-day adventure by Sarah Read more
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  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 1

    Day 1- Zaragoza

    August 13, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    An impending foot surgery with a long recovery period prompted us to take advantage of an early departure from our rental in Catalonia.
    Even though the movers showed up eight hours late on Wednesday, they managed to pack us up by 11am today so we could get on the road before noon. First stop, Zaragoza! We are sad to be leaving this magical spot on the Costa Brava but excited about exploring new parts of Spain over the next three weeks!Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 2

    Day 2- Zaragoza Highlights

    August 14, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    An early morning dog walk along the Ebro River kicked off our first full day here in the 5th largest city in Spain. Conveniently located in the historic district, our apartment here in Zaragoza is just steps away from the central Mercado and Roman ruins.

    Determined to see the top architectural sites and in spite of the forecast of temperatures climbing to 106 degrees, we set off early for the grand Basilica de Nuestra Señora Pilar. Lonely Planet refers to this as a “great baroque cavern of Catholicism”. It’s believed that Mary appeared to St James the Apostle on top of a pillar and the rest of this incredible building was built up around this sacred stone. It didn’t disappoint. A glass elevator carried us to a birds-eye view of the northwest tower which allowed a great view of the colorful mini-domes and city below.

    Lunch involved a tapas crawl in the famous El Tubo food district. Sin Nombre Tapas Creativas boasted fried artichoke hearts with jamon, pork and mushroom Wellington and a scrumptious veggie empanada (the photos don’t do them justice!) We chose seafood tapas at the next stop a few doors down. If only all tapas restaurants were this creative! Thank goodness we’re doing a lot of walking.

    Unfortunately tickets to the Aljeferia Palace we’re sold out. We had been excited to visit this fortified medieval palace built during the second half of the 11th century. Oh well, we will just have to return at some point in the future! Zaragoza reminds us of Cadiz, a bit worn on the edges but full of life and rich in history.    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 3

    Day 3- Zaragoza to San Sebastian

    August 15, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our last stop before leaving Zaragoza this morning was the Museo de Pablo Gargallo which featured art by this 20th century Spanish sculptor in a Renaissance-style palace. This charming boutique museum was deserted at 10am on a Sunday morning so we had all 5 floors to ourselves; the photos don’t do his work justice.

    After a thankfully uneventful drive we arrived in San Sebastián (the ‘ol girl has been displaying a service engine warning light ⚠️ so there will definitely be a Volvo dealer garage in our very near future). It is is 40 degrees cooler here than in Zaragoza - a welcomed relief!

    We are staying right on the Plaza de Constitution in the Old Town and using this as our base to explore the area for the next 3 days. This plaza has an interesting history. If you look closely you can see numbers above each window on the square. These correspond to individual spectator balconies when this was a bullring.

    San Sebastián is touted as Europe’s top city for foodies and we’re excited to see if the food actually lives up to this reputation. The four tapas we shared were super and the cheesecake was unlike any we have ever sampled…. super light (fluffy almost- think cheese soufflé), and so flavorful. No need to douse it with fruit or cherry sauce. We are convinced there was a small amount of goat cheese in the recipe… but the waitress wasn’t forthcoming. It was subtle but enough to make the flavor unique (nothing like the typical imitation Spanish cheesecake made with gelatin, read not worth the calories!)

    If tonight was any indication of what’s to come over the next 72 hours, this will be an amazing epicurean adventure!

    Our day ended with a stroll around the old town where we saw couples dancing in a park. Thankfully there are still many Covid safety restrictions in place here (with the majority of people wearing masks on the crowded walking streets even though Spain is currently leading the EU in vaccinated numbers). As we slowly emerge from this pandemic it is heartwarming to see dancing like this once again!    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 4

    Day 4- San Sebastian Architecture

    August 16, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We love San Sebastián. This pocket city has a perfect setting: two yellow horseshoe beaches tucked between three green and hilly peninsulas, a nearly circular bay, and a broad river running into it. There are three parts to the city: the charming old town packed with tapas restaurants; the suitably named La Romántica, with broad boulevards lined with extraordinary Belle Époque architecture, and its second cousin Gros across the river. Just the river: lined with freshly painted wrought iron fences, red carnations on every pillar, and two white Nepali temple-like structures at either end of the main bridge. They are like figurines on a wedding cake. The entire architectural atmosphere is playful, the upper spaces in particular, with octagonal turrets and building-long balconies and loggias and almost wildly decorative facades, one after another, street after street. It reminds me of what life should be like after reading too much CNN.

    All of the above came from a day spent walking all over until our feet gave out, interspersed with two more culinary adventures. The first was more tapas in the old town (or pinxtos in Euskara, the Basque language — first Catalan and now this!) The second was a hike across the river to a top rated “Michelin alternative”. Spain’s Basque Country boasts the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, which is great because it has raised the level of gastronomy in the area (in other words, you don’t have to pay for a Michelin star restaurant in order to eat outstanding food!) We will let the pictures speak for themselves.    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 5

    Day 5- Museum Day

    August 17, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    It wouldn’t be a Stiles adventure without a bit of drama! Leaving the door to the bathroom slightly ajar while showering set of the ultra-sensitive fire alarm in our room and subsequently the alarms on the entire floor of our historic building at 7:00am this morning. Oops!

    After a chilly brunch (weather *and* waitresses 😩) we headed to the San Telmo museum to learn more about the culture and history of the Basque people. The museum is housed in a former monastery which made the experience even more interesting. We ended up spending 3.5 hours there, most of it in an amazing multimedia exhibit, The Longest Trip, about the 1519-1522 Spanish-sponsored expedition to find a western route to the spice islands (modern Indonesia). The expedition ultimately turned into the first global circumnavigation. Led by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, the expedition started out with five ships and over 270 crew members. Magellan didn’t make it, and only one ship and 18 men returned to Seville. In between was a harrowing tale, as you might imagine. They misjudged the size of the Pacific and ended up eating the leather on the ship’s mast. Some of the highlights included original documents such as the King of Spain’s extensive instructions to Magellan (what a control freak!) and secret instructions to the Spanish crew on dealing with the Portuguese.

    One thing that we have found interesting is watching life on the Plaza de la Constitution from our balcony. Thankfully the doors are soundproof as otherwise there is an absolute roar from below. Every morning the restos lining the plaza set up tents, and every night they come down. The cleaning crew arrives with hoses in the wee hours, and then the food and bev trucks arrive. If you want to get a feel for how much food and bev is consumed in this football pitch-sized square every day, we counted an even 50 (!) trucks in the square yesterday morning. See the picture! It is like a military operation.

    We will go easy on the food report today. Suffice it to say that we continue to put a dent in the pintxo population. One of those trucks on the plaza is just for us!

    And speaking of trucks, we cannot help but share the sight of one that passed us on the street last night.    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 6

    Day 6- The Road to Bilbao

    August 18, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    This morning we bade adieu to San Sebastián and hit the road. We are driving two cars to Andalucía which has presented some challenges, like making sure our mapping apps are in sync. Generally we find a free lot outside town and leave one car there for a day or three, then find closer parking near our hotel. We can talk by phone but it is difficult while navigating. Otherwise we have a small convoy, which today went on an inspiring tour of the Basque coastline all the way to Bilbao.

    The coast reminded us of Big Sur. Our first stop was the fishing village of Getaria, where we had a coffee and mandatory pinxto by the harbor. This was followed by a coastal drive by beaches and through forests. Then it was off to Leteiko, on a flyer, as the LP guide referred to it as a “mini San Sebastián”— which it was! Seafood was definitely on the menu so we both had an impressive slab of bonito and of course the local cider (see photo).

    Then it was off to Bilbao to see the Guggenheim museum building. We loved it. The best view is from the highway bridge, from where it looks like an enormous octopus unfolding it’s arms along the banks of the river. The museum has completely revitalized downtown Bilbao with artistic and renovation projects spreading out from it. You have to give the city fathers an A+ for vision. We didn’t go in— the risk of ending up disappointed by modern “art” was too great. It has to be said, however, that Brie enjoyed posing in front of Jeff Koons enormous statue of a terrier made of poppies. I am going to have a talk with that dog.

    Finally we ended up at another flyer, a marvelous boutique hotel in the Rioja región called El Teatrisso, in an equally marvelous little town called El Cuzcurrito de Rio Turon. We shall wait until tomorrow to describe this magical pueblo.    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 7

    Day 7- Exploring the Rioja Region

    August 19, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    The Hotel Teatrisso is nestled in the village of Cuzcurrita, on the banks of the River Tiron. Cuzcurrita is the town Hollywood would create for the ideal Spanish village. It has a cathedral, a Roman bridge, two plazas, a castle, vineyards, tree-lined paths, and of course the river running through it all, and maybe 1000 people. When we arrived late yesterday afternoon half of them appeared to be drinking wine in the bigger of the the two plazas. Amazingly, that plaza has a single bar, which is part of the town hall building, making it very easy to get a glass of crianza while paying your parking ticket.

    The Teatrisso is the nicest place that we have stayed so far, a former palacio converted into a boutique hotel with an art and music theme. Our room is decked out in classic blues and jazz posters. After checking in we headed to the plaza for a meal and some cribbage —the one thing the town lacks!

    After traveling for a week logistics caught up with us; it’s August in Europe and it took a bit longer than expected to find a pet friendly accommodation for the next leg of our trip in Segovia. Task completed, we headed into nearby Haro to sample some wine and local culture. Haro is the capital of the La Rioja región, known worldwide for its wines. There are bodegas (wineries) everywhere, and it seems that you can visit all of them. Many of their visitor centers are quite sophisticated, like Napa.

    After Haro we toured a few ancient villages along a beautiful skyline of mountain ridges. As we did so we compiled the following hard-won wisdom on how to visit an unknown Spanish pueblo.

    1) Identify the plaza in front of the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) since everything springs from this prime location. In 90% of cases, it’s called the Plaza de España, Plaza de Constitución or Plaza Mayor; identifiable by the four flags flying from the second floor windows: EU, Spain, province, city.
    2) Locate a legal parking spot😉 In Spain, one is allowed great latitude in this determination.
    3) If you are hungry, locate the bar or restaurant with the greatest number of people eating (an important indicator of kitchen skill, some restaurants are really just watering holes!) Order a caña (small beer) or cafe con leche in your best Spanish!
    4) Sit back and absorb the ambiance. Each town has its own pulse and feel. Relax and let it wash over you.

    The winner of today’s meandering was the walled medieval town of Laguardia, nestled on a hill beneath the mountains. It was a beautiful day and the first time we have been able to enjoy driving in the convertible together. We also stumbled upon a 6000 year old dolmen which Paul decided to lie down in so that he could channel the energy of his Neolithic ancestors.

    We topped off the day back in Cuzcurrita, with a picnic in the banks of the River Tirón. At sunset the entire town, which is made of yellow stone, comes ablaze. The only way to legitimately douse the fire is with a glass of Tirón, the local label, in the plaza. Now you know where we are headed for the cribbage rematch.    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 8

    Day 8- Wine tasting & Segovia bound

    August 20, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We ended our stay La Rioja with how many begin it: a bodega tour. There are innumerable options. We chose a tour and tasting at the venerable La Rioja Alta (recommended by a friend).

    The winery was a beautiful sight in itself, as many are. We had forgotten how sophisticated the entire process is, the hard-won knowledge of centuries of trial and error. The tour was excellent and the tasting was fun. We feel guilty about saying this, but the wines were not our favorites. Try Cune or Muga instead….

    This was our first day of truly footloose travel (i.e., no reservations) and we found the dog really limited our last minute options in Segovia, so we entered the fallback in times like these, which is lodging in Spain’s widespread casa rural (rural house) network. You never know what is going to happen when you make this fateful decision. To make a long story short we ended up in a stone lodge some 15km from Segovia. But what a 15km! A serpentine road through national parkland resulted in a 40 minute trek from the city. The town was a bit down at the heels, and they didn’t seem to understand our Spanish, so we are determined to spend a lot of time in Segovia…

    The highlight of the day was actually an impulse stop en route: lovely Burgos. We left the convertible outside and took the Volvo to its extraordinary sandcastle cathedral, followed by one of our better lunches of super creative tapas (Central American fusion) and outstanding service. Trip Advisor does come through sometimes!

    Looking forward to the famous Alcázar of Segovia tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 9

    Day 9- A Day in Segovia

    August 21, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Segovia boasts the most impressive collection of historic buildings on this trip so far! The disneyesque Alcázar, the Segovia Cathedral, and the Roman aqueduct bridge (see video) are all jaw-dropping and it’s no surprise that the latter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s one of the best preserved aqueducts in the world; the date of construction is thought to be sometime between 86-117 AD. If you aren’t currently a fan of aqueducts, the sight of this one will change your mind!

    We planned ahead this time and had tickets to tour the Alcázar and climb the 152 steps to the top of the Torre de Juan II, named for the king who commissioned this impressive addition. Despite the 90 degree heat, it was well worth the effort for a panoramic view of the city!

    The story of this castle dates back to the beginning of Moorish rule. The Moors constructed their “Alcázars" or strongholds in a number of places in today's Spain and Portugal. It is unknown exactly when this castle or fortress was built, but it was sometime between the 7th and 9th century. The photo collage below showcases the throne room, a turret, the ornate wooden ceiling of a large ballroom, a Rapunzel-like view from the keep, and a stained glass window in the chapel.

    Segovia falls in one of Spain’s regions where regardless of what you order to drink, you will always receive a tapas with it. So our coffees this morning came with small Spanish omelette sandwiches. Later, when we stopped for two “Claras con limón” (one part Spanish beer and one part lemon soda), we received a plate of mini-mystery sausages. Lunch was a bit of a fail (saved by a mango sorbet) as we hadn’t made reservations (mandatory on a Saturday in Segovia in August).

    We’re off to Andalucía tomorrow!    Read more

  • TravelerSummer’21 Spanish Road Trip
    Day 10

    Day 10- Back to Andalucia

    August 22, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Having circumnavigated Spain in the past year, it is great to be back in Andalucía, where we landed in 2015 after six years in Scotland. We write this from Úbeda, a white village north of Granada, where we have decided to spend two days. Sadly, we decided to pass on Cuenca for now just to slow down the pace a bit. We definitely want to visit Cuenca at some point in the future!

    Today was a travel day, the 3+ hour drive south from Cercedilla taking up a good portion of the day. On the way out of town this morning we stopped at an antique fair. Thankfully we were pressed for time or we would have rolled out of there like the Clampitts on their way to Beverley Hills!

    Arriving Úbeda on a Sunday afternoon, we had planned ahead (making a reservation 2 days in advance), and had a late lunch at Antique Restaurante, the top restaurant in town (making up for yesterday’s failure!) It was an A++ all around!

    Recent archaeological findings indicate a pre-Roman settlement in Úbeda. We have an apartment in the town center with a classic interior courtyard.

    After a brief hiccup with a lost apartment key, we settled in and enjoyed a late vermouth on a picturesque plaza around the corner from our rental. We are looking forward to exploring Úbeda and possibly nearby Baeza tomorrow!    Read more

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