Day 4 (Morning) Exploring Cesky Krumlov

Since Sarah works in the afternoon we took advantage of the morning to explore!

First stop, a walk around Český Krumlov Castle gardens and grounds. This castle is an important monument here in South Bohemia. Its rambling buildings have been well-preserved and there were many places where it felt as if we’d stumbled onto the set of Game of Thrones. We did not see any dragons though and the three brown bears that live in the moat must have been still been in bed.

Bears you ask? Yes! The first documented bears were housed in the moat starting in 1707. Recently though, the National Heritage Institute has announced plans to phase out bear keeping at all Czech castles by 2030. Český Krumlov has applied for an exemption given the centuries‑old tradition and potential to serve as a rescue‑style site (and tourist draw??) Stay tuned!

We were very curious about the decorative walls on many buildings here—something called sgraffito (see photo). Here’s what ChatGPT tells us about it: Sgraffito (skrah-FEE-toh) is an old-school art trick. Artists layer colors—think clay, paint, or plaster—then scratch through the top to reveal the color underneath. It’s like reverse coloring! The technique has been around forever—Romans used it on pottery, Renaissance Italians carved it into walls, and today’s artists use it in ceramics and murals. What makes it unique? It’s all about contrast. Dark over light, smooth over rough.

We couldn’t get a reservation at the restaurant we wanted to try (stay tuned) but pizza followed by cocktails and cribbage in a cozy bar was great fun!Read more