Japan 2023

September 2023
A 14-day adventure by Donnetta Read more
  • 34footprints
  • 3countries
  • 14days
  • 411photos
  • 47videos
  • 20.1kkilometers
  • 12.2kkilometers
  • Day 4

    Purrfect Pitstop

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    So as a panacea for all the visual noise and smut of Akihabara, we took a chance and checked out a Cat Cafe.

    It's strictly time-limited, but you get a free drink and unlimited pats of the indifferent fluffy staff members. Poor Paulie was such a champ, given his allergies. It was a little quiet oasis that filled our cups and stoked the entrepreneurial fires of "yeah, why don't we open a cafe like this at home?"

    We then headed off on an adventure for more shopping through the markets and scored some cute overalls and silver-tabbed jeans for the kids. These huge markets stretch out in all directions as trains clatter and bang overhead. We saw our first few glimpses of fruit at the market stands. It is interesting that fruits are not more ubiquitous given the healthy eating culture here. We wondered about that as we caught the train direct to Sumo.
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  • Day 4

    Sumo!

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We made it to watch the last few hours of Sumo. It's a massive stadium with a tiny dirt arena with mats for seating for the immediate ring-side seating.

    Each round involves up to four minutes of preparation before the Sumo's knuckles hit the floor and it's on! When they clash, there's this almighty SLAP! The crowd goes from reverence to loud cheering like an AFL sports match.

    A quick Google explains that a lot of skill is involved. The sumos move surprisingly well for such large lads, and it's only sometimes the big guys win. As you can see in this video, Big Red (or so I called him) had his momentum used against him by his opponent.

    What was especially cute was that after the event, imagine a sea of umbrellas exiting the grounds. Everyone had brought an umbrella except us tourists. The rain was the equivalent of a mist and a welcome reprieve from the heat, so we didn't care. Still, as we entered the orderly crowd of people, without us needing to ask, people of all ages lifted up their umbrellas to shield us from the rain.

    It's one of many examples of politeness and kindness we've seen here. It's almost a pleasure to commute as everyone respects their environment, themselves and others.

    💗
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  • Day 4

    Tokyo Food Adventures

    September 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Here's a day on our plate.

    Breakfast is a concoction of traditional Japanese foods, we had fun learning what they are thanks to our waiter and Google translate. I'm rating them. So fun and fermented.

    There are vending machines at least every 100ms. I'm not exaggerating. Down back alleys, main streets, subways... everywhere! The drinks are cheap and the boys have nearly made their way through most of them. Turns out Boss Coffee is Japanese?!

    On the topic of drinks, the tea is POWDERED. It's the tea version of International Roast, but as gross as that sounds (sorry mum), is pretty nice. Where we had lunch, there's an uncovered hot water tap right on the bench in front of you for the sole purpose of making your tea (or burning your arm). Paulie also had a go at some street meat. Verified fricken delicious by Noah. I'll be verifying tomorrow 😅

    Then, we had our first proper ramen experience. The chef makes the noodles by hand and cooks them right before dropping them into your bowl. There are two types of broth, then you grab your tempura things and boom! Omg. Delicious. Like a big warm hug for your belly.

    Then our evening ritual is to call into 711 to buy some random weird snacks to review; suffice it to say, there are some weird flavour combos!
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  • Day 5

    Faster than a Speeding Bullet

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We hit the ground running early and said goodbye to the shoebox that was Hotel Belmont. After 35,000 steps in 48 hours, our feet looked forward to the bullet train commute to Matsumoto.

    Navigating Shinjuku station was something. With approximately 3.5 million people passing through it daily, Shinjuku Station holds the Guinness World Record as the world’s busiest train station.

    I know. It was hectic but so well signposted and the lines colour-coded that we found our way to our station with time to spare.

    Unfortunately, we didn't realise the cryptic receipts issued yesterday for the bullet train held our seating numbers. They were on their way to Hiroshima in our other luggage. We had no clue which of the 300 seats were ours. So for the next 2.5 hours, we played musical chairs up and down the train as free seats came up with Noah hobo-ing it between carriages with major main character energy.

    The trains are so clean and deluxe, with charging points and reclining seats, so it was a shame we couldn't relax enough to enjoy it, although as we disembarked, we vowed to reissue our seats from tomorrow!
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  • Day 5

    Matsumoto

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Thankfully, our hotel was only a few blocks from the train station, so after checking in and dropping our luggage at the hotel, we left in search of lunch. As per Noah's request, Macca's was our first stop because one had to investigate the difference, you know, for science. Monkey reviewed the Samurai burger and a mystery Hot Pocket; we are still unsure about the ingredients, but that was mainly the point. Stella played it safe with some fries, however hot off a veritable feast of ramen the night before, the parents had noodles on their, well, noodle. Thankfully, what we needed was just across the road. Deliciousness abounded, including various new unknowns such as a Japanese potato salad and coffee jelly. Stella had fallen in love with tempura and Noah miso soup, so this was obviously added on. Paulie is still trying to find okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake that is simply to die for. We'll just have to keep eating at new places to determine if this is indeed true. 'Tis a thankless task...

    With full tummies, we wandered up to the Matsumoto Castle, stopping off at random shops along the way. Squabbling hit an all-time high between the siblings, with Mum and Dad rethinking their life choices (or whether the castle still had a functioning dungeon).
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  • Day 5

    Not Takeshi's Castle

    September 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    With the weather cooling down, we enjoyed exploring a 400-year-old castle in Matsumoto. It was immersive, with seven wooden floors connected by steep, cramped staircases (some at 61 degrees!). Lots of memorabilia with the history of how Muscats were developed and Samurai armour functioned.

    In the war room on the top floor, we were rewarded with 360-degree views of the mountains. The space needed to have unparalleled visibility of the terrain for strategising. I found this, along with other tactical elements of the build, fascinating, including slits in the walls for muscats to fire from and gaps between the floor and wall to drop rocks on enemies scaling the wall.

    I'll never know how they did that in Samurai armour; I could barely scale the steep stairs in shorts and a T-shirt!

    One vending machine raid and 10,000 steps later, we were back at our new posh hotel. We dutifully removed shoes at the entrance (Mum would approve) and tucked them in shoe lockers.

    Upstairs, the rooms are cute with indirect lighting, welcome jellies and powdered teas! The shower cubicles are still small, but this one has a seat and adjustable rose. The kids were thrilled we had separate rooms; my anxiety took a moment to talk down, but then I remembered we were in Japan. After flopping on the bed, none of us moved until pizza cravings drove us out into the humid rain. A short walk and a flight of stairs saw us holed up in a tiny pizzeria called Beans. Yes, Beans; we don't get it either. However, a sweet, older couple delivered surprisingly good pizzas, and we watched Multiverse and played hangman until 7-Eleven sirened us with weird snack energy for dessert.

    Back at the hotel, a soggy team Blackford dripped all over the foyer, mobilising hotel staff to magically appear with towels and unspoken eye-rolling. 'Bloody tourists, where is your umbrella?!' We are now dressed in Kimono PJs and slippers, ready for our Onsen saunas and soaks later. When I say we, I mean it's us adults so as not to emotionally damage our offspring with our nudity.

    PS. I did it! How liberating! 😆👏
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  • Day 6

    Birthday Adventures

    September 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Happy Birthday Paulie!

    After big group birthday huggles, a somewhat subdued team Blackford explored a hybrid Japanese/Western buffet at 6.30am. There were so many little bowls of things you wouldn't think to eat for breakfast. Thankfully, there were English labels, and to our credit, we went for the authentic experience before heading off to see the Snow Monkeys.

    We travelled from Matsumoto via Nagano to Yudankana via train. I just loved looking out the window of our reserved seats as the weather is similar to Donnybrook, cool and crisp. Here in Matusomoto, they grow massive apples and manufacture a particular type of Miso. The size of the ranges and the mist on the peaks were hard to capture in photos, but they framed every view of the countryside like we were in a (ramen) bowl. Just so beautiful.

    After a couple of hour-long train rides and a rickety bus transfer, we landed in Yamanouchi National Park to enjoy a beautiful 45-minute walk through the forest. We were all happy to stretch our legs and marvel at the quiet, crisp green foliage as we made our way up to the National Park Reserve.
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  • Day 6

    Monkeying Around

    September 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The snow monkeys were incredible to get up close to. There were hundreds of them wandering past our feet, basking in the sun or grooming each other. The little ones were the cutest, just having a good old rough and tumble until mumma monkey came barreling in to scoop one up and leap away.

    I just wanted to cuddle a monkey, but you know, rabies is not the best colour for me. Plus, touching the monkeys is strictly prohibited, there are signs everywhere saying this. But I guess the monkeys didn't get the memo as Noah and Paul bore witness to some, errr monkey 'self-love' on display, complete with creative recycling of the well... you get the point. I didn't get that on film, and I'm not upset about that 🫣

    So many photos, I had to remember to put down the camera and just take it all in. The walk back to the bus was equally special, all of us buzzing with what we had just witnessed.

    With time to spare, we stopped off for an apple pizza (whilst in Rome right?) for lunch, followed by dinner at a restaurant chain that totally catfished us with photos of rump steak. Poor Paulie didn't get his luscious steak however, at least the kids were happy with some semblance of Western food.

    Paulie kept saying 'it was the best birthday because we were all together'.
    I think it's the best because he's part of our world and we are so grateful for this. Even Matsumoto agreed; fireworks were cracking off in the distance, clearly in his honour! We watched from the hotel window as we ate Family Mart birthday cake and sipped on gin

    💘 Happy birthday, darling boy. We love you so much.

    Enjoy hanging with a bunch of naked strangers in the sauna. Perhaps don't shout "It's my BIRTHDAY!" 🥴🤌

    Step count to date: 59,000 steps, 4 days.
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  • Day 7

    Next Level Ablutions

    September 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So let's talk about toilets.

    Next Level. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

    You walk in and the lid pops up automatically. Running water sounds starts playing and the seat is heated. You do your business then select either front and or back wash, followed by a blow dry. Then you stand up and the lid closes and it automatically flushes.

    Like a car wash for your tushie!

    Next Level 🎚️

    Downsides: if the water is set too hot and you can't read Japanese, chances are you're going to make it hotter by pressing all the buttons.

    #Steamedwonton 🥴

    But no lie I haven't come across a dirty public toilet. We've been in tiny towns, shonky hotels, airports and countless train stations, including *the* busiest in the world. They are all at a standard of high end Australia restaurants or hotels. So clean. All dispensers and taps are automatic too.

    You know that hesitation going to public restrooms in Oz? Absolutely NONE here.

    Incredible.

    The absolute shit. 👏💗
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