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NZ and the SubAntarctic
  • Mary Barranger

NZ and the SubAntarctic

A 23-day adventure by Mary Read more
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  • Trip start
    December 17, 2023
    Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler

    Finding the Post Office

    December 20, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    My traveling partner Charlotte devours murder mysteries. She had “eaten” two of them by the time we arrived in Auckland (after 25+ hours en route). Being a happy recycler she decided to mail her books to a friend back in the States. So we went looking for the post office.

    You know how this goes. We had the dot on our phone.. After walking over and around the dot for about 20 minutes (we were looking for a Post Office with a capital P- maybe with pillars or a parking lot) we decided to ask directions at a convenience store.

    You guessed it. We had arrived. It was operated by a young man from Bangalore and his “uncle” with an infectious smile.

    It turned out to be a delightful outing.    Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Snares Islands

    December 24, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We visited the Snares (our firstsubAntarctic Islands) by Zodiac. We saw penguins endemic to the islands, motored into caves, saw vast albatross colonies, and admired the beauty of the kelp and eroded cliffs.Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Macquarie Island

    December 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We spent a a few glorious sunny hours at Macquarie Island, Australia.
    Along the beach I was intrigued by a King penguin who seemed to be late for a very important appointment with his colleagues.
    Close by was a Royal penguin colony where chicks were being tended to by doting parents.
    Meanwhile the sea lions basked in sun.    Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Happy New Year!

    December 31, 2023 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    After the penguinopia of Macquarie Island, we saw rock hopper penguins on Enderby Island, Zodiaked to secluded grottos with floating kelp on Enderby Island, and hiked on Auckland Island (arbors of trees and windy fields). Now we are getting closer to civilization, visiting the Fjordlands on the South Island of New Zealand. 2023 ended with a bang-up party in the lounge: musical entertainment by our Filipino crew and a raucous game of Bingo. Happy New Year to all!Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Milford Sound

    January 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We are working our way up the west coast of New Zealand. Yesterday we spent the day in Milford Sound.
    I took a road trip to New Zealand in the mid 80’s but it was during their winter. I loved the country and its natural beauty but we got snowed out of Milford Sound. Ever since, Milford Sound has been a tantalizing destination. It did not disappoint!
    These photos (thank you, Charlotte) can only give a hint of the mystique of the mountains, the mist, and the fjord.
    The woman in the last shot is Ebony, one of our Māori cultural guides who has been traveling with us since we left Auckland. The last time I was in New Zealand my view of Māori culture was limited to a tourist show of half-naked tattooed men sticking their tongues out and thrusting spears aggressively to the persistent beat of tomtoms.
    Through our interactions with Ebony and another Māori man named Gus, we are learning so much more about their rich culture.    Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Abel Tasman Beach Day

    January 3, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We had a sunny afternoon at the Abel Tasman Park. Some in our group kayaked. But Charlotte and I roamed the beach and environs. Our first stop was the campsite with a Māori statue marking the entrance. This area is unreachable by automobile so campers and visitors are transported regularly by water taxis. I went swimming! Be sure to watch the video of dolphins who joined us on our journey from Milford Sound to Abel Tasman. (This video was taken by one of our guides.)Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Alas, Back to Civilization

    January 5, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After we left Abel Tasman National Park, we sailed through the Cook Strait up the east coast of the north island of New Zealand. (See map) We did a walking tour of Napier, the self-proclaimed Art Deco capital of the world. (The original buildings had been demolished in the earthquake of 1931.)

    The next morning we docked in Gisborne. From the harbor we took a coach to the Eastwoodhill National Arboretumof NZ. (Fun fact: Douglas Cook, the creator of the arboretum was a nudist.) Notice the picture looking up into the canopy of the Weeping Mexican Pines. Because the branches do not overlap you get that cool mosaic of tree and sky.

    I close with a picture of the sunset that evening.    Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler

    Rotorua

    January 6, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Learning about Maori culture has been a rich part of our New Zealand experience. Ebony and Gus (pictured below) have been with us throughout and are proud ambassadors of their heritage. I’ve mused on something Gus said - his people introduce themselves by their tribe, their mountain, and their river. Ebony is a naturopathic healer. I always enjoyed their talks on everything from Maori history to the art of Moko (tattoos.)

    We took a bus ride to Rotorua, the home of the NZ Maori Arts and Crafts Institute. There we learned about Maori wood-carving and weaving.

    We walked through an infrared-lit kiwi enclosure. Kiwis are nocturnal, so they are rarely seen. We couldn’t take pictures so I included an online clip.

    We walked to a viewing area of extensive geothermal activity.

    Finally we watched a Maori musical program.

    It was a fun day.    Read more

  • Mary BarrangerNZ and the SubAntarcticTraveler
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    Aotea and Tiritiri

    January 7, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Our last day before arriving back in Auckland was blessedly spent back in nature. On the Great Barrier Island Aotea we hiked past a New Zealand Christmas tree through a fern forest to a hilltop view of the surrounding area.

    After lunch we visited Tiritiri Matangi Island. This island was designated as a nature reserve in 1984.. Predators have been largely eradicated, thus it is home to a thriving bird and plant community. At the top of the island is a sun-drenched lighthouse.

    Today we are in Auckland awaiting our flight back home. It has been a magnificent experience. The wildlife, especially in the subAntarctic, were the stars. But our fellow passengers and crew win awards all around for their supporting roles. Here are pictures of our new friend Jenny (who lives in South Carolina), Charlotte and me in Milford Sound, Charlotte in our room (having our medicinal afternoon potato chips) and a celebrity guest hired by Lindblad: Louis Mitchell, cartoon artist, who is a creative director of Sesame Street.

    It has been a magnificent trip!

    Nevertheless I am looking forward to getting home so I can continue my daily morning walks at La Jolla Shores with Bruno.

    See you soon.    Read more

    Trip end
    January 8, 2024
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