Bergama: Kızıl Avlu

The Red Courtyard, as Kızıl Avlu translates from Turkish, is also known as the Red Basilica … or more commonly, as the Red Hall. We had all been to these ruins in Bergama on previous occasions. Nonetheless, we made a quick stop there after visiting the ruins of the ancient Asclepieion.

The structure was once a monumental temple. It was built in the 2nd century AD … possibly during the reign of Hadrian. Its red brick walls were covered with colored marble. The columns of the stoas were carved in the form of back to back male and female figures … in the Egyptian style. This led archaeologists to believe that the temple was used to worship Egyptian gods — specifically Isis, Serapis, and Harpocrates.

The hall was part of a much larger sacred complex that was surrounded by high walls. The complex was built directly over the River Selinus … a remarkable feat of engineering that included the construction of an immense bridge that channeled the river under the temple. This bridge, known as the Pergamum Bridge, is still in use today. The majority of the complex, however, remains buried beneath the buildings of modern day Bergama.

The temple was converted by the Romans into a Christian church dedicated to St John but was subsequently destroyed. Our visit today took in the ruins of the main temple and one of the side rotundas. The second side rotunda is in use as a small mosque, which we opted to skip.

The rotunda we entered is a big, empty building with an oculus in the center of the domed ceiling high above … a la the Pantheon in Rome, which was a Roman temple also built during the reign of Hadrian. Which might account for the similarity in style.

The last time I was at this site, the entrance to the ruins of the big, red brick hall that is the primary attraction here was barred. Not that there is much to see inside, but being able to walk in and stand amidst the walls gives a whole new perspective on the height of the walls that remain standing.

Completing our quick visit to the Red Hall, we strolled into the downtown area to pick up some Bergama Tulum, a cheese for which Bergama is renowned. A few other things — including tahini, helva with pistachios, and a loaf of rustic bread made from garbanzo bean flour — also found their way into the shopping bags!Read more